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Koigu Journal September 2014

Let's Koigu this!

This month we want to inspire you toward a next step in playing with colors.
The Koigu philosophy has always been to speak through color and design is the tool
Maie and Taiu have employed to translate, explore and embrace color.

So this month we want to Koigu a simple T-shirt pullover with seven KPPPMs in the
easiest kind of intarsia knitting- a regular group of stacked squares.
Of course, the first fun bit is choosing. Try not to be too regimented in your choices.
The pattern for the pullover included here uses brights and darks. They share a few
things: blue, some grey, a touch of pinky red.
But they're different enough to stand out as units when put into squares.

You'll see some alternate colorways included here.
The swatch is a group of pale-ish colors unified by their being "stippled" with color.
That is, they are made up of misty dots of color rather than larger, denser lengths of color.
The second colorway variation contains dyelots that share pinks and oranges.
Add a touch of yellow and the occasional deep hint to make this one sing.
Finally, there's something in between: loud pink, heathered lavender, strong
purple, a dark stipple and a hint of light blue-green.
Have a blast choosing, exchanging, adding your own color ideas!

Intarsia knitting involves separate lengths of each color and twisting them
when you finish one and start another.
The T-shirt pattern uses eight squares in each tier, so you'll be happier if you knit a
square of one colorway and then unravel that square, measure how much it took
and cut lengths of the other colors. Make sure you give yourself a few extra inches
of yarn  so that you have enough to weave in the ends as you go. Now you can have
the amount you need for each unit and just pull the lengths through when you need them or wind your yarn into "butterflies" (there are wonderful online tutorials explaining both techniques).
Just remember to twist the new color around the old when you switch so you don't
get holes in between the squares! That's easily done if you always pick up the new
color from under the old one.
When using as many colors as this, some knitters find it helpful to put each individual ball in a plastic bag and mark the bags A through G. That way you won't accidentally grab the wrong color.

The sweater is boxy and contemporary and has elbow-length sleeves.
The neckband has a hem folded to the inside to give it stability.

T-Shirt Pullover
Finished Measurements: 38 (42, 46) " / 99 (107, 117) cm at bust X 21 (23, 25) "/ 54 (59, 64) cm from shoulder.
Materials: KPPM #P817 (A), #P849 (B), #P846 (C): 3 (3, 4, 4) sk ea;
#P844 (D), P102 (E), P407 (F), #P912 (G): 1 (1, 2, 2) sk ea.
Gauge: 34 sts X 40 rows = 4"/ 10cm.
Needles: US3/3mm
Notions: Tapestry needle for sewing

Notes: Larger sizes are obtained by making squares bigger.
S: 15 st X 20 rows M: 17 sts X 22 rows L: 19 sts X 24 rows.

Border Pattern: Rows 1-4: K3, P3; rep across. Rows 5-8: P3, K3; rep across.

Back
With A, CO 120 (136, 152) sts. Work rows 1-4 of pattern. Change to B. Work rows 4-8 of patterns. Change to C. Work rows 1-4 again.
Begin working in stockinette (K 1 row, P 1 row) from here.
Using separate lengths for each color, following 1st tier of Body chart, work 8 blocks across back.
Continue breaking off and adding in new colors as indicated, making sure to twist new color around old color at each square.
When there are four rows left on the 10th tier, shape back neck: K40 (46, 51), BO center 40 (44, 50), K 40 (46, 51). Next row: Work back across to beg of BO. Next Row: K1, (SKPO) 2X, K across. Next row: P across. BO. Work back across second shoulder. Next row: K 35 (41, 46), (K2tog) 2X, K1. Next row: P across. BO.

Front
Work as for Back until the middle row of tier 8. Shape neck: K 49 (55, 62), BO 22 (26, 28), K 49 (55, 62). Next row: Work back across to beg of BO. Next row: K1, (SKPO) 2X, K across. Next row: P across. K1, SKPO, K across. Work this decrease every other row 10X. Work even, as necessary, until Front matches Back. BO. Work back across second shoulder. Next row: K 44 (50, 57), (K2tog) 2X, K1. Next row: P across. Next row: K42 (48, 55), K2tog, K1. Work this decrease every other row 10X. Work even to match other shoulder. BO.
Sleeves
With A, CO 60 (66, 72). Work 12 rows of border as for Body, increasing 4 (6, 8) sts evenly across last row.

Begin working in stockinette from here. Using separate lengths for each color, follow chart for Sleeves, working 4 full blocks with 2 sts of new blocks at each end. At the same time, increase 1 st each end of 5th row, then every 6th row 10X, then every 8th row 4 (5, 6) X. Work even, if necessary until chart is complete and sleeve measures 11 (12 1/4, 13 3/4) "/ 28 (31, 34) cm. BO.
Finishing
Sew Back to Front at right shoulder. Neckband: With A, pick up and knit 22 (24, 27) sts down left front neck, 22 (26, 28) sts across center neck, 22 (24, 27) sts up right neck, 42 (46, 50) sts across back neck. Work rows 2-4 of border pattern. Change to B and work rows 5-8 of border pattern. Change to C and work rows 1-3 of pattern again. Purl 1 row (this forms the fold line). Work 12 rows stockinette. BO.
Sew left shoulders and neckband together. Fold band to inside and sew edge of band to pick-up row of neckline.
Sew sleeves to body, beg and end halfway through Tier 7. Sew sleeve and side seams.
Steam or block as needed to smooth and shape.

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The first colorway is the original, with the original swatch. To the right, the stipples are: P712, P717, P516, P462, P710, P118C and P715.
On the bottom are: P740, P847, P107B, P853, P107, P133 and P853. The bottom right uses:  P462, P729, P538, P637, P336, P303 and P454.
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Join Vogue Knitting LIVE and Koigu Wool Designs for a Vogue Knitting LIVE Knit Intensive September 27, 2014, at the Brooklyn Craft Company! This Knit Intensive will focus on the vibrant colors of yarn for which Koigu is known and classes to help you master miters, Fair Isle and entrelac!Spend your Saturday knitting with Koigu! Space is limited and seats are selling quickly. Register today! Questions? E-mail vklive@vogueknitting.com
Copyright © 2014 KOIGU WOOL DESIGNS, All rights reserved.


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