THE

TAPROOT

January 2014

The Quarterly Newsletter of the Tri County Master Gardeners

Growing Ferns Indoors

Debbie West - MG 2012

Ok. I admit it. I love ferns! I especially adore those difficult to grow delicates, the Maidenhair. Long ago I gave up on the idea of having ferns inside my house. My heating/cooling system has a dehumidifier. So, I swept out the dead fronds and leaves and settled on having lots of plants on my porch. Comfortable indoor temperatures rule! I kept trying to grow different ferns on my porch. I read every fern growing article I could find on the Internet and talked to every gardener I could about growing them. I tried it all. I still struggled with the Maidenhair while my Boston Ferns have cascades reaching 4 feet. Eventually, I was able to enjoy a few Maidenhair ferns tucked up under the Hydrangea bushes on the north side of the house near my potting table. Sadly out of view, but alive and well.

I have always played with African Violets and I periodically set them out in my bathroom where I have lots of light and more humidity. I would still need to remove a plant (or three) that could no longer adapt to the low humidity and my tendency to forget to water indoor plants. A couple of years ago I discovered self-watering African Violet pots . The inside pot has no glazing and is porous. The outer pot is completely glazed and you keep this filled with water. (A nested self-watering system using diffusion to keep the roots moist – cool!) I found I could fill those once a week or even once every 2 weeks depending on whether the plant was blooming. This started me thinking about indoor ferns again and ways to keep the humidity high for the delicates and maintain steady moisture to the roots. I knew the closed pot system wouldn’t work for ferns so, I decided to try planting them in a squat “Azalea” clay pot and setting this inside a wide shallow glazed bowl. I like clay pots because they absorb moisture and you can tell at a glance when the soil is drying out. I gleefully discarded the potpourri and set out a few experimental ferns.

I placed a zip-loc plastic bag into the bottom of the azalea pot because I didn’t have a cork to fill the drain hole. (The African Violet nesting pots don’t have drain holes and rely on absorbing water though the porous clay.) I filled the pots with some potting soil mixture . Nothing special, just potting soil mixed with a handful of peat to help hold moisture. I went fern hunting and found a few Maidenhair, some delicate fern varieties in tiny 2 inch pots and a Bird's Nest Fern in a 3 inch pot.   I put one of the Maidenhair from under the Hydrangea into a planter as well. Yes, I was being brave because I have never been successful with these particular specimens indoors or out. I planted the delicate ferns in pairs and the Bird's Nest solo in my experimental stacked pots and placed them in my family room. I checked them every few days to see if water was visible in the outer bowl and watered if needed. (About an inch deep.) If the clay pot looked dry I would also water the fern from the top in addition to adding water to the outer bowl.   Once a month I put a teaspoon of Miracle Grow into the 2 quart jug I use to water the plants.

Things I learned about growing ferns this way:
1)The Maidenhair didn’t need as much water as I thought.   I was keeping the water level in the outer pots about an inch deep at all times which allowed me to grow some nice mold in the maidenhair pot and lost some of the plant to too much water. I backed off to watering only when there was no water in the outer bowl. The plant recovered.
2) The Bird's Nest Fern wanted much more water than the other plants and has grown tremendously. It certainly is happy with water, water and more water.
3) I now check the water about once a week. Mostly I look at the clay pot to see if it is damp looking. If the pot looks damp and the bowl is dry, I will add one inch of water to the bowl.   If the pot looks dry, I will water from the top and also add an inch of water to the bowl. I have a gas-log fireplace that has been busy this winter. This also lowers the humidity in the household air. I doubt the ceiling fan has much to do with reducing the humidity, but it keeps air moving in my house at all times. With this environment in mind, here are pictures of the experiments I began at the end of August. Four months along and certainly the most dry period of the year, I am thrilled with my results and decided to share my successful venture in growing delicate ferns indoors.

The outside Maidenhair was in a clay pot already and placed in a decorative bowl. Pictures at 2 and 3 months inside the house. I consider this successful because I moved a fern that had been growing for 18 months in an outdoor situation to a humidity controlled inside environment without re-potting. It did die back some from over-watering and successfully recovered once I moderated my watering. It is now a lush looking plant - Something it wasn't doing outside under the Hydrangea bush.

Outside Maidenhead Fern at 2 months

At 3 months

Two Hardy Maidenhair plants in 2 inch pots were planted in an 8 inch clay azalea pot and set into a decorative bowl inside the house. Pictures at 2 and 3 months. I consider this successful because the plant has doubled in size and new growth fronds are visible.

Hardy Maidenhair at 2 months

At 3 months

Two fern plants in 2 inch pots were planted in an 8 inch clay azalea pot and set into a decorative bowl inside the house. Pictures at 2 and 3 mos. This plant has almost tripled in volume and new growth fronds are visible

Fern at 2 months

At 3 months

One Bird's Nest Fern in a 3 inch pot was planted in an 8 inch clay azalea pot and set into a decorative bowl inside the house. Pictures at 2 and 3 mos. This fern has grown beyond expectations. Beginning at about 6 inches in height is now sporting fronds 20 inches long.

Bird's Nest Fern at 2 months

At 3 months

Banana Tree

Yvette Richardson Guy MG 2003

This is a photo I took in September of a Carolina Anole sizing up the bananas on a tree in my backyard in Summerville. Since last winter was so mild, the tree had time to flower and fruit. Alas, the current cold snap is frozen doom for my little bananas.

Homegrown Basil Microgreens

From the home of Gerry Raney MG 2008 and Larry Raney MG 2013

(Note – our basement/garage/shop area is VERY ‘busy’. If you are offended by clutter, please don’t look at the pictures!!)

The Concept

First Gerry and I love Basil – who doesn’t? We are always a bit sad at the end of the growing season. We let them go to seed and collect a bunch of seeds; then patiently wait till spring to start up a new batch. We are usually able to collect a huge amount of seeds – about 4000 or so by weight (more on how we do this in another article perhaps).
Gathering this many seeds means we can plant by broadcasting them, rather than carefully planting three or four at a time in a starter container, then thinning out the strongest, then transplanting to the garden.
With the broadcasting method, we have to start thinning them out after a week, and, of course, this means a lot of Basil Microgreens early in the season.
Combine the desire to keep fresh Basil and our experience working with a lot of extra seeds, and we decided to try maintaining a supply of Microgreens over the winter.

The Plan

My first idea was to put is a set of compact fluorescent lights (CFL’s) into a ‘hot box’ I had built 20+ years ago, for the purpose of brewing my own wine vinegar and dehydrating long racks of hot peppers (the vinegar project worked out nicely for several years, till we tired of it, the pepper project is still a work in planning).

The box uses a 200 watt incandescent bulb hooked to a thermostat. It is roughly 2x2 ft square and 4 feet tall.
Next the plan was to fill a small tray with a few inches of dirt, broadcast the seeds, and get started.
Here is the beginning, on 12/2/13, with the CFL’s on, and the warming bulb below. Note that we’re using an indoor/outdoor temp monitor to check the soil temps (probe on top of the dirt).

The Hot Box

Here is the contraption with the door closed

The thermostat is set at about 80° and the lights set on a timer to stay on 16 hours/day.

Plan A: How Did It Go?

We planted just one half of the tray, planning to plant the second half after a week or so, and continue in this pattern to keep us in a steady supply of greens.
We covered the seedlings with a piece of clear plastic until they got too tall. This reduced the watering needs.
However, I developed a nagging worry that this was not the safest of systems. My main concern was that it was a fire hazard. I took multiple temperatures in the box at various times (using a calibrated infra-red thermometer) and nothing read more than 90°. Still it worried me enough to think of another plan.

And now on to Plan B

The next idea was to make use of a series of grow lights that I had assembled, also a very long time ago. These consist of three dual-tube four-foot long standard metal shop lights mounted such that we can lower them to within inches of the table top.
Then we purchased a heating mat, designed to keep the soil warm in seed starting systems (it was about $80).
The mat came about two weeks after starting the first batch, at which point the initial seedlings were around an inch and the second set of seeds were set.
Here is that set-up, with the lights raised a bit for clarity – they sit only an inch or so away from the plants in regular use.

Note that the soil probe is now covered with a latex glove and inserted into the middle of the soil. You can see the Microgreens on the right. The left half has been planted and covered with plastic.
This is a larger mat than needed, but the plan is to use it for starting several different plants for this spring.
Here is a closer view.

The picture does not do them justice – they looked very healthy.

The Progress

Here is a shot from December 19^th, roughly a week after the second planting

The tray is turned 180° every few days due to probable inequalities of light output from the bulbs.
They require watering daily (I’m working on a plan to make an inverted plastic box to place over them to conserve moisture).
Here is a shot from December 23^rd, at which point we began harvesting a few of the plants. We snip the plant off at soil level.

And here is the latest shot, taken today (January 4), from a ways off:

Closer view

One really tall plant was touching the bulbs, but did not scorch. Yes, they need water.

And here is the day’s bounty:

So tonight we’ll be roasting the last of 2012’s cherry tomatoes, and tossing with onion and fresh basil. We will probably also make up a batch of Basil hummus (recipe below).

Discussion and Problems

These plants are growing more slowly than they do in summer. Warmer air and real sunlight obviously are better than a cold basement (with warm feet!) and fluorescent light.
Next, they need daily watering. My plastic box idea may fix this, but that, I’m sure, will have its own problems (air might be too warm?).
So far I’ve had no disease or pest problems. From my reading, that is only a matter of time.
Time, which it seems, may not come to pass. The problem is the cost. I hooked a power meter to this system and metered 24 hours of usage. It came out to about 5 kW hours or about 50 cents per day. Even harvesting the amount of Basil shown above every two weeks hardly justifies $15 a month! That does not including equipment costs.
I next tried turning off three of the six fluorescent bulbs, and setting the heating mat to turn off for a few hours during the warmest time of the day. That got it down to about 33 cents per day. Is this worth $10 a month?
I’ve been told it is worth it to have our own Basil, not something imported from afar.
A few specifics/stats: we live on the Isle of Palms. The shop/garage/basement is fully enclosed but not insulated, below our living area. The shop air temperature has been around 50-60° for the last few weeks, but the soil is staying around 70-80°. As the temp drops, this may become an issue since the heating mat just raises ambient temp by about 20-30°. It would not be an issue for the hot box, but therein lies the safety concern.

Conclusion

We are just a month into this project, but we are likely to let the currently planted batch run its course then turn it off.
It will get fired up again in February to start our seeds for this spring’s garden, and perhaps we’ll try this again next fall with enough planters to fill the whole warming mat. If we can generate enough Basil to give some away to neighbors, it would be worth the eight to fifteen bucks a month!
If you have a warm sunny spot (Basil prefers temps over 70°) and the ability to supplement the light from these short winter days (by about 6 more hours), the cost could be much less.

Hummus Recipe

Note: this is featured on page 111 of Alton Brown’s Gear For Your Kitchen book, ©2003 Stewart, Tabori & Chang, New York
In the book Mr. Brown states:
“Heck, I would own a food processor if for no other reason than it makes great Hummus – one of my favorite foods. I don’t actually have a recipe: I just drop three pealed cloves of garlic down the chute and chop for a few seconds. Then, in goes a can of Garbanzo Beans (partially drained) which also gets chopped. Then a spoonful of peanut butter, some lemon juice, and parsley. Then I leave the machine on and drizzle in olive oil until the consistency is just where I want it (thick and dip-like). It’s as easy as that.”

Since the publication of that book, the Food Network has posted his recipe online in a more formal style, which can be found here:
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/turbo-hummus-recipe/index.html
or by searching with “Alton Brown Peanut Butter Hummus”

Our Notes:
Hummus comes in hundreds of different varieties with varying spices and vegetables. In addition to being a wonderful dip with pita chips and vegetable sticks, it is a healthy alternative for mayonnaise on sandwiches or mayo-based dips.
The beauty of this recipe is that it substitutes peanut butter for Tahini (which is basically sesame butter). We always have peanut butter on hand, and rarely Tahini (once opened it turns rancid relatively quickly). In this recipe Mr. Brown mentions ‘a spoonful of peanut butter’. In the online one, he calls for ‘two to three tablespoons’. We’ve found any more than one tablespoon and there is a distinct peanut flavor which to us detracts from the dish. We use a scant tablespoon.
Be sure the garlic is well processed before adding the beans, or you’ll be biting into large chunks of garlic (unless you like it that way!).
We usually omit the parsley and use fresh Basil instead. It works best if the greens are roughly chopped before adding to the food processor (again, unless you like them chunky).
We also frequently add several slices of roasted red bell peppers. These are roughly chopped first and added at the very end, followed by a brief pulsing of the processor – this part we like chunky. We’ve also done the same with sun-dried tomatoes (yummy).
Gerry and I also like our hummus strong on lemon so we usually add the juice of ½ fresh lemon and add in all of the zest. Very tangy!
For an entirely different flavor, try substituting black beans for the garbanzos and roasted onions rather than red bells. We leave out the lemon for this spread.
Above all, experiment, have fun, and enjoy! As AB says, good eats!

2013 Garden Photographs

Carol Miller MG 2013

Pruning for Healthier Plants

Kerry Goldmeyer MG SC 1990, MG 1989 VA

The best time of year to prune is almost upon us. How your garden will grow this year, will be influenced by the pruning you do this spring. Healthier plants require less pesticide, withstand drought stress better and use fertilizer more efficiently. All this adds to improved water quality by lessening pollution.

Pruning is the art of selective removal of canes or branches to open a plant to allow air circulation, to remove damaged growth and to prevent future damage. Pruning tends to open up and allow trees and shrubs to keep their natural habit.

Plants open to air circulation tend to have fewer diseases. So, one of the focuses of pruning is to open shrubs and trees for air movement by thinning dense growth. Removal of branches or canes crossing the center of the plant is part of this effort.

Damage can occur anytime of year. It is desirable to remove damaged branches and canes so that the plant or tree can heal. Uneven ripped areas don’t heal. For deciduous trees and shrubs, winter is a great time to really see the structure of the shrub or tree, and to remove any broken or ripped branches or canes.

It is much easier to see where branches or canes will grow and begin damaging one another when they are bare. It is more visible. Where branches will grow to rub against each other, one should be removed.

Where to begin? It is helpful to begin before planting. Picking plants whose mature size is compatible with your space will reduce the need for pruning to keep a plant within boundaries. Photinia frequently must be pruned repeatedly during the year to keep it in a space smaller that the 20-foot ball it would naturally grow into. I’ve done that, but the best looking one I ever had was not planted in a confined space.

Most of us already have some things planted in the wrong place. Then we have a choice to move the plant or to keep cutting to fit the space. Pruning is more intentional then just confining a plant to a space, more care is taken to shape and keep open to air circulation.For many trees and shrubs there is a particular time of year that is most beneficial for pruning. Early spring blooming shrubs bloom on old growth and should be pruned after they finish flowering (azaleas, camellias etc.). If pruned before blooming the flowers are cut off. Within about six weeks of the end of bloom, next year’s buds are already forming. Elongated out of shape growth should be pruned when it becomes visible.

Plants that bloom on new growth and fruit trees should be pruned while they are dormant. In the Charleston area, mid to late February, is ideal for pruning. It is easy to see structure and shape.

Cane structure plants such as forsythia will benefit from pruning no more than one third of the oldest canes from as far into the center as it is possible to reach. Prune after bloom.

Many hydrangeas bloom on old growth. It is desirable in February to prune out dead wood, but flowers will be almost nonexistent if plants are pruned heavily in the fall or winter.

Crape myrtles have as many types of pruning as there are pruners. It is not necessary to prune them way back unless you need to keep them small. Crape myrtles have wonderful bark that is easy to see when the trunks are twig free. Proper pruning includes removal of many of the small twiggy branches to make an open clean profile.

Pruning Tips

Remove diseased, rubbing, crossing or weakened branches from shrubs and trees.
Remove poorly spaced branches from young trees. Training is best begun early.
Look at the structure of trees and shrubs, plan to open and remove “sail area” for healthier growth and less damage to plants.
Cut last years growth from grasses that are dormant. Remove dead leaves from Pampas grass, long sleeves are a necessity. Many people prefer cutting the entire plant down to a foot to eighteen inches partly for ease and partly for size control. I prefer removing only the dead growth so I keep all the leaves that are still growing.
Densely branched dogwoods can be thinned so light gets to the interior of the tree.
Your fingers are your best year round yard tool. Pinch back early.
When you cut, look at the direction the bud closest to the new end of the stem is going. Is this the direction you want the new growth to go?
Find a pair of clippers that fits your hand.
Prune narrow leaf evergreens to shape. Once all needle type leaves have dropped from a branch they will not re grow.
The Extension office has several pamphlets concerning pruning. 843-722-5940 ext 117.

Deerly Beloved

by Marcia Rosenberg MG 2010

I really love the deer that I see grazing in my yard each day. I just wish they would leave my plants alone. With the knowledge I gained through the master gardener program, I was determined to have a more beautiful garden with healthy plants. Not the clay, or the bugs or the heat--the deer would be my biggest challenge.

Aesthetically, fencing in the yard was out of the question. And as a kid who grew up in the city surrounded by lots of bricks and cement, I couldn't bear to give up seeing such magnificent creatures grazing on my lawn (and flowers and shrubs). Spraying deer repellents was not an option since that is not how I choose to spend my time in the garden. After much soul searching, I decided that I would try to have a beautiful garden AND enjoy the deer that I came to love by choosing plants that they would not devour. I had oleanders, lantana and society garlic, but there had to be more.

I acquired every deer-resistant plant list I could find and compared them to see what would show up on multiple lists--surely the best way to weed out plants that didn't have a chance. Wrong! Plants that were described as "hardly ever nibbled by deer" sometimes wouldn't last the night in my yard. I was thrilled to discover a beautiful castor bean plant, Ricinus communis, on a trip to Mepkin Abbey. The stunning dinner-plate sized palmate leaves were glossy and burgundy in color. Upon learning that the plant was highly toxic, I thought for sure that the deer would leave it alone. I went so far as to check with my veterinarian to see if the deer would be safe, and he assured me that they would not eat castor bean and to go ahead with planting. Three seedlings that I planted disappeared within days. The fourth survived to a height of 3', with beautiful leaves, when overnight, all the large, lower leaves were stripped leaving a pathetic looking specimen.

Edgeworthia (paper bush) is an uncommon deer-resistant plant that I have had great success with. For four years it rewarded me with excellent winter interest since that is when it gets its unusual and fragrant flowers that last for months. They really stand out because they open as the leaves fall off. The deer never bothered with it, so I finally sought out another edgeworthia which I planted about 30' from the original plant. Apparently, the new edgeworthia was not as lucky as the first one.

Hopefully, when the new leaves emerge next spring, I'll have better results with the new plant.

With so many failures, I started a new policy. When I bring home a new plant that I have never tried before, I leave the pot in my driveway for several weeks before I even attempt to plant it. That will give me a better idea if the deer will nibble on it, in which case I offer it to someone who does not live in deer country. I did that this year when I tried 2 plants that were new to me--Farfugium japonicum (Leopard plant; tractor seat plant) and Albo Marginata Xanthosoma (Mickey Mouse elephant ear). Both survived the test with no signs of nibbles. I am happy to report that as of this writing, they have thrived. I love both of them due to their somewhat exotic and tropical nature and feel confident that they are truly deer resistant and will definitely add more this spring.

Where did you get that plant?

Jenion Tyson MG 2012

Recently I have had a few friends and acquaintances ask me where I buy my plants. As a frugal gardener, I know my answer disappoints them: I usually don't. I know that sounds a little far-fetched, but I plan to prove it right now. I can't say that this is a complete list, but it probably comes close. I'll understand if some of you quit reading before I reach the end.

Shade Garden

Root Beer plant - friend
Hostas - bought two, years ago. The rest were given to me.
Knockout Roses - free from Craigslist
Bulbs -transplanted from elsewhere in the yard
Sweetshrub - neighbor's yard
Holly Fern - clearance at Lowe's
Cast Iron plant - someone's trash
Hydrangea - bought at Dream Gardens
Queen's Tears bromeliad - plant swap

Desert Garden

Yuccas - someone's trash
Century plant - craigslist trade
Beautyberry - plant swap
Sedum - clearance at Lowe's
Coneflowers - grew from seed
Rosemary - clearance at Lowe's
Cactus - cutting from a neighbor
Lantana - transplanted from elsewhere in the yard

Flowers

Daylilies - bought off craigslist, plant swap
Gerber daisies - yard of abandoned house
Irises - someone's trash
Alliums - someone's trash

Potted Plants

Palm - someone's trash
Tropical hibiscus - someone's trash
Tuberous begonia - someone's trash
Peperomia - someone's trash
Alligator plant - someone's trash
Asparagus fern - someone's trash

Night blooming cactuses - plant swap/friend
Holiday cactus - clearance at Lowe's

It took me awhile to find and link to the images of all of these plants. As I was doing this, I started thinking of all of the other plants that I have that are not on the list. Let's just say that this is a good representation of what I have, but there is still a lot more.

Master Gardener Book Review

Yvette Richardson Guy MG 2003

Bringing Nature Home, How You Can Sustain Wildlife with Native Plants, Updated and Expanded, Douglas W. Tallamy, (Portland: Timber Press), 2009.
Many Master gardeners are familiar with Douglas Tallamy from his speaking appearances or from this book. Here the professor of entomology explains the why and how of the native plants and wildlife approach to suburban gardening, a philosophy for which he is a primary evangelist. The first few chapters are exceptionally persuasive in exploring why it is imperative for gardeners to restore native plants, animals and insects to the environment. History and various case studies are set forth to build a strong argument for the natives first thesis. Approximately 70% of North America’s eastern seaboard forests have been wiped out since the sixteenth century. What happens to animals and insects living in obliterated habitats? Over time, extinction is often the answer to that question.   In the later chapters, Tallamy tackles the question of how to restore the native ecosystem one suburban garden at a time. Most of these chapters are comprehensive guides to plants, animals and insects. Beautiful detailed photographs are included making this section all the more informative.
It is logical to think that native insects eat native plants and are eaten in turn by native animals. Carrying that idea a step further, Tallamy and others have found that native insects will not or cannot eat some imported plants; likewise a number of native birds will not consume foreign insects or the seeds and fruits of imported plants. Accordingly, Tallamy asks gardeners to focus on native plants, not the aliens. This is a daunting line of reasoning to popularize since gardeners tend to be collectors who view the pursuit of exotics as a constant temptation. The book offers not just a condemnation of invasive aliens like kudzu, but the rejection of alien ornamentals in general. Tallamy argues that suburban and small gardens are the keys to holding on to islands of native biodiversity in North America’s rapidly changing landscape. This is a new concept placing a great deal of responsibility on amateur gardeners and those who expect to advise them. He hopes gardeners arm themselves with accurate information and aggressively rebuild what has been lost. That means gardeners must turn their backs on trendy imports and seek out the right native plants for the local ecosystem.
Also this perspective presents a tough situation for gardeners who are accustomed to classifying insects as “beneficials” or the enemy-to-be-destroyed. Tallamy argues that all native insects have a place in the great ecological wheel. Insects are essential in returning animals to the plants as a food source by breaking down organic material into usable soil nutrients. Nearly every North American bird depends on insects as a food source at some point in its life cycle (baby hummingbirds eat regurgitated insects to gain protein). Aggressively destroying any group of native insects punches a hole in the food chain. The point is not to kill off “bad” insects, but to encourage a natural balance in the garden. Bring in the birds, lizards and frogs to gobble up those insects considered destructive. So, to feed the birds, gardeners must feed the bugs. Plants untouched by insects are not normal in Tallamy’s view where “A plant that fed nothing has not done its job.” He observes that the standard “golf course” lawn found in much of suburbia is a sterile, destructive environment offering little to eat and nowhere to hide for insects and wildlife.
Bringing Nature Home is grounded in science and logic resulting in a compelling and disquieting reading experience, especially the first sections. It is an exceptional book, and the guide to insects is an outstanding reference tool. While many gardeners may not get fully on board with Tallamy’s assessment, his book lays out serious food for thought. Like this reviewer, the reader may find Joni Mitchell’s song “Big Yellow Taxi” from way back in 1970 constantly playing in the back of her mind. Remember, the part that goes:

                                         'Hey farmer farmer
                                         Put away that DDT now
                                         Give me spots on my apples
                                         But leave me the birds and the bees
                                         Please!

                                         Don't it always seem to go
                                         That you don't know what you've got
                                         Till it's gone
                                         They paved paradise
                                         And put up a parking lot'

The Naturescaping Workbook, A Step-by-Step Guide for Bringing Nature to Your Backyard, Beth O’Donnell Young, (Portland: Timber Press), 2011.
Gardeners always should be aware of the geographic contexts of the advice given in gardening books. For example, Tallamy lives in Delaware and based much of his research for Bringing Nature Home on work done at his farm in Pennsylvania. This second book is written by a garden designer based in Oregon. Needless to say, neither New England nor the Pacific Northwest has the same growing conditions as the South Carolina Lowcountry. Consequently, local gardeners are well advised to keep that high humidity, hot weather, long growing season, etc. sensor ticking away in the background when studying any garden book.
Young’s book lightly shares Tallamy’s philosophy. It is less research based, much less urgent in the need for change, and less insistent in the environmental outlook (for example, here the desirable insects are still the traditional “beneficials”). The Naturescaping Workbook is concerned with garden design based on five goals: attract birds and butterflies, reduce maintenance, eliminate pesticides, reduce fertilizers, and create a retreat. It is very nuts-and-bolts in how to accomplish these goals since as the title says, this is a workbook. There are worksheets to direct the gardener’s evaluation of what exists before tackling any changes. Then it moves on to worksheets for what the gardener ultimately hopes to create. Much attention is paid to soil analysis, sun/shade patterns, the right plant in the right place, and water runoff. Additionally Young provides plant lists to attract butterflies and birds as well as those that fill out a lovely garden design (in Portland, remember). Sustainable materials also are emphasized with the wise warning to consider what happens to the garden hardscape when it is no longer needed. Will those materials biodegrade or become toxic? Of course this concept is quite sound, but in Young’s book for instance, using repurposed concrete (urbanite) is a snap since all of it appears to be free of complicating reinforcing steel bars.
The step-by-step approach is used in each chapter taking the reader through initial assessments, formulating goals, putting it on paper and on to installation whether the question at hand is choosing plants, planning irrigation or laying pavers.   A particularly methodical gardener will benefit from this approach with its worksheets, checklists and diagrams. For others, it is a more casual read that gives detailed hints about how to approach a major project like transforming a garden along with lovely design ideas. And the pictures are inspiring.
For gardeners working on the Carolina Yard compliance list, both of these books should be helpful.

Garden Recipes

Kathee Dowis MG 2010

I am going to share with you one very easy, flexible, forgiving recipe. With this one recipe, you can turn out a myriad of dishes. This wonderful recipe is for marinated beets! Once you marinate the beets, use them to make pickles, appetizers, salads, soup or salad dressings!
After you have these ruby red orbs in your fridge, you’ll only need a few minutes to serve up truly delish and nutritious dishes.

Easy Marinated Beets
2 bunches of beets with greens trimmed to about one inch
3/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon of pickling spices
A pinch or two of salt and pepper
Wash beets well, do not trim root, cover beets with water, and boil 30 minutes to one hour. Beets are done when they can be pierced all the way through. Save about 2 cups of the beet stock, drain beets, allow to cool, and then peel. They may be left whole, sliced, or chopped.
Combine vinegar, sugar, pickling spice and two cups of beet stock. Heat until sugar dissolves, pour over beets and pop them in the fridge until ready to use.
Always taste!

Beet Soup
Puree beets, combine with your favorite stock, let simmer for 30 minutes. Taste for seasoning. This soup can be topped an endless assortment of goodies. Try green onions, eggs, cucumbers, dill or shrimp. Serve cold or room temperature.

Beet Salad Dressing
Take 3 or 4 beets, 1/4 cup beet liquid, one or more tablespoons of chopped onions, 6 tablespoons of mayo, blend until smooth. Not only is this tasty, it is beautiful!

Beet Crostini
Spread finely chopped beets on a sliced baguette, sprinkle with Clemson Blue Cheese, and run under broiler until hot and bubbly. Divine!

Pickled Beets
Drain beets and serve. How easy is that?

Beet and Arugula Salad
Toss beets with a vinaigrette, one bunch of arugula, sprinkle a little feta cheese or chopped hard-boiled eggs. This is perfect when you want a little sweet, salty and zing!

Pets in the Garden

'My Name is No, No Bad Dog'

Susan Howe MG

“It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year”

David Baird - dbaird@sc.rr.com - MG 2012

It’s the “most wonderful time of the year” for gardeners. No it’s not Christmas, or New Years, or even a birthday or anniversary. It is the time of year when the garden catalogs start to show up in the mail.
There is only one thing that is more exciting than getting out in your garden and playing in the dirt and that is talking to people about getting out in the garden and playing in the dirt and we have two great opportunities to do that out in the Summerville area this year.
The first is The Flowertown Festival April 4-6. This is from the website.
'Every spring, the Town of Summerville is awash in color- from the hot pink azaleas, to the purple wisteria, to the delicate white dogwood. On one 3-day weekend during this season, thousands of festival-goers transcend this gracious Southern town to take in the flowers and hospitality and attend one of the largest arts and crafts festivals in the Southeast- The YMCA Flowertown Festival.

Consistently ranked one of the Top 20 events in the Southeast by the
Southeast Tourism Society, the three-day festival features:

Over 200 jury-selected artists from throughout the country who display their work for sale

Delicious foods from restaurants at The Taste

Fun activities and rides for children at the Children’s Jubilee

Free admission

Free Parking'

Our fellow Master Gardner , Bobby Behr, has managed to get us a booth at the event this year. During the 3 day event a quarter of a million people will be walking through enjoying the great spring weather, and wanting to talk to someone about their Garden plans. This is going to be a great opportunity to meet and share our knowledge and joy of gardening with wonderful people.

The Second opportunity is at the “Summerville Farmers Market”.

Every Saturday morning a small group of dedicated Master Gardeners meet, at the very popular, Summerville Farmers Market to share our Knowledge, Ideas, and Love of Gardening with the people visiting the market. It can be a very busy time. During our short time there each Saturday we averaged talking to about 32 people answering the garden questions and just having a good time talking about Gardening.
We are looking for volunteers to have fun with us at these events. No you don’t need to be there every Saturday but we would like you to come and try it several time during the summer and see if you like it. But let me warn you it can become addictive and you may end up wanting to be there a lot.

It you would like to be kept up to date on the planning and possibly volunteer for either of these events just send me a quick email. We will keep you up to date on both of these events.
Think Spring!

Lady's Tresses Orchid

Jenion Tyson MG 2012

I was planning to do maintenance on my lawn mower myself, but when the self-propelled part broke, I decided to let someone else take care of it. It's been more than two weeks and I'm still waiting for my lawnmower back. I have to say that you never know what you might see when you let the grass grow. I was in the yard pulling weeds and I noticed something that I haven't seen for a couple of years - Lady's Tresses Orchids.

I first heard about these years ago on a local public radio spot that horticulture extension agents do every day. She talked about having a yard full and mowing them down each spring. I had never considered that there were any native orchids - they seem so exotic to me. After I did a lot of research, most native orchids, you would miss if you weren't really looking for them. That goes for these as well - I wouldn't have been so curious about these if I hadn't already heard about them.

Spiranthes is the genus of orchid that the Lady's Tresses falls into. It's one of the terrestrial orchids. It has fleshy roots - that's how I knew it must have been an orchid when I first encountered it a couple of years ago. Up close, the flowers had the unmistakable orchid petal arrangement, albeit on a smaller scale. I'm not sure how I came across them two years ago, but this time it was because I hadn't mowed the grass for a couple of weeks. It's possible that's what happened last time. While it grows in a wide variety of soils and ecosystems, it is listed endangered in some parts of Canada. I counted close to a dozen in my yard - I hope they multiply and I'll transplant them to their own area of the yard - so I don't mow over them every year.

Wild About Azaleas?

Suzi DuRant MG 2001

If you love azaleas, then you need to take part in Doin’ The Charleston – Azalea Style on March 27-30. The Reverend John Drayton Chapter (based at Magnolia Plantation) of the Azalea Society of America is honored to host this year’s national convention here in Charleston.

The program includes tours, lectures, plant sales, plant and photo competitions and lots of fun. Some highlights include a welcome reception with Eliza Lucas Pinckney; talks by Ernest F. Koone, III, from the Lazy K Nursery in Pine Mountain, GA, Tom Johnson, Director at Magnolia, Mary Roper, Garden Manager of the Asticou Azalea Garden in Acadia, ME, and Buddy Lee, the inventor of the Encore® Azalea.

The tours include a day at Magnolia Plantation & Gardens and Middleton Place; a special tour of historic Charleston along with a harbor boat tour; a trip to Cypress Gardens and a lecture on pollinators for azaleas, as well as several optional tours.

For a complete agenda and registration form, please go to http://azaleas.org to Conventions. You do not need to be a member to attend.

Join fellow Master Gardeners by registering to attend or by volunteering. We need help to set up as well as assistance in plant sales, registrations, tour attendants and more. To volunteer or for questions, please email azaleaconv2014@gmail.com.