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Balancing Costs and Benefits
One of the interesting aspects of working with natural extracts is the variation between batches of ingredients. A few months ago, we purchased a new batch of Boswellia Serrata and discovered that it smelled much more strongly than the older batch we had been using. Boswellia is used at high concentrations in our Collagen Serum so new batches of that products had a much stronger fragrance.
One idea that we considered was reducing the amount of boswellia in our formula. Hannah felt that the boswellia had a significant impact on the effectiveness of the serum so we decided not to do this - our priority being the effectiveness of the product.
This month, we are releasing a new version of the Collagen Serum (under the name Firming Collagen Serum) based on the bonus we tested in July. As well as the tightening elements, the new version contains a small amount of fragrance oils (similar to Lemon Verbena) that mask the smell of the boswellia serrata. We will also continue selling the regular Collagen Serum. For our home formulators, we are also making the lemon verbena replacer oil available so that it can be added to the Collagen Serum, or any other product at home.
We are keenly aware of the trust that is placed on us to make sure that our products do not sacrifice effectiveness for aesthetics, and we will continue to make sure that we continue to make the correct formulation decisions with regards to this in the future.
The new anti-aging mask will be available for purchase in September. The lab is working on the formulation on a new exfoliation product featuring ABX solution and Pullulan that should also be ready in about a month.
Check Out Our New Look
 Construction on the new Skin Actives website is now well under way. We hope that the completely revamped site will be ready at the beginning of December. Our focus is on providing a much more intuitive experience that will make finding the right page much easier. The new site will also feature new phone and tablet versions for easier browsing on the go.
As part of the website redesign we have been filming new information videos. The new videos can be found on our YouTube channel.
A preview of our new home page can be found here. Let us know what you would like to see in the new website.
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 Firming Collagen Serum and Firming Collagen Cream
This is our Collagen Serum, the most popular product we sell, tweaked with Pullulan and additional texture and fragrance changes.
We will include a 0.5 fl oz serum in an airless bottle with orders over $150. A 10 ml tube of a protype Collagen Cream will also be added.
Customers placing an order over $50 (and less than $150) will receive a 10 ml tube of a prototype Firming Collagen Cream. This cream is made with similar ingredients to the new firming serum.
Please note: Bonus products are added automatically. No code is required, and they will not show in the shopping cart.
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A complete list of our ready to use products can be found here.
All our 'make your own' ingredients can be found here.
Looking for a great gift? Fabulous gift Ideas can be found here and you can also purchase Skin Actives Gift Certificates.
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Firming Collagen Serum
 A more 'commercial' version of our Collagen Serum. This version includes Neroli and essential oils to provide a theme to this version. Pullulan and mangiferin are also included. We have also switched to our Seakelp Coral for this version - adding additional antioxidants.
Like the standard version, this serum contains our signature ingredients: EGF, and Thioredoxin. These ingredients make our Collagen Serum the best anti-aging Serum available anywhere.
The firming Collagen Serum is filled into our silver topped, airless bottles.
Complete ingredient list: Distilled Water (Aqua), Sea Kelp (Lactobacillus/kelp ferment filtrate) Bioferment, Neroli Floral Water, Glycerol, Sodium PCA, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Carnosine (L-), Indian Frankincense (Boswellia serrata) Extract, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Acetyl Glucosamine (N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine), Centella asiatica Extract, Betulinic Acid (from Betula alba Bark Extract), Mangiferin Extract, Glutathione, Thioredoxin, Citric Acid, Epidermal Growth Factor (sh-Oligopeptide-1, EGF), Pullulan, Porphyridium extract, Fucoxanthin, Astaxanthin, Fragrance (Lemon Verbena Replacer Essential Oil), Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid.
The new Firming Collagen Serum is designed for customers who prefer fragranced products. We recommend the standard version for users who prefer a more natural serum (please note that the standard version does have a strong smell from the actives used). The third option, our Classic Collagen Serum is sometimes a better choice for users with oilier skin.
See all the unedited reviews here.
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How much copper is too much?
We receive a lot of requests for custom products containing copper peptides and we see a lot of these products on the market. Copper peptides are an important component of our Restoration Cream, this cream is designed for short term use to improve the effectiveness of abrasive treatments such as laser procedures or peels. We do not use the copper in our anti-aging products.
Our concern is due to the dangers posed by the long term accumulation of copper in the skin. The synthesis of sulfated glycosaminoglycans by the tripeptide GLYCYL-L-HISTIDYL-L-LYSINE-CU2+ is promoted at very low concentrations, 10-8M (equivalent to about 0.05 ppm) and higher concentrations will decrease this effect and become inhibitory.
 It is worth noting that L. Pickart, who has recently been promoting the use of copper peptide at concentrations in the % order, did not measure the response of collagen synthesis at copper tripeptide concentrations beyond 1nmol/L, 10-9M, or 5. 10-3 ppm, (see figure below) so I am not surprised that he did not encounter the well known inhibitory effects of copper at higher concentrations.
In practical terms, we request that users who wish to use the ingredient for long-term use do not add more that our recommended concentration of copper peptide solution to their product (2 ml per 4 fl. oz.) and that use of the product be intermittent - 2 weeks on, two weeks off would be our preference.
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Sorghum is a food grain that is grown across America, Africa, and Asia in areas that are too hot and dry to grow  other grains and corn. Sorghum species are known to have a high content of antioxidants, including simple phenolic acids, as well as polyphenols, particularly 3-deoxyanthocyanidins, such as luteolinidin and apigenidin. In Sorghum, the chemical has a defensive role in the interaction of the plant with invasive fungus. In humans, the deoxyanthocyanidins have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity and to modulate the immune system and prevent tumor growth. This extract has a nice, pink, stable color, making it ideal for use in skin care products.
Figure. The 3-Deoxyanthocyanidins and their glycosides are molecules with an anthocyanidin backbone lacking a hydroxyl group on carbon 3; they are present in ferns, mosses, purple corn and in Sorghum bicolor.
We are now using sorghum bicolor in our Antioxidant Serum.
How to use: The sorghum bicolor is strongly colored. To make it easy to use we are shipping 0.05 grams in a 10 ml tube (0.5%), pre-dissolved in European Cream. Add the contents of the tube to 4 fluid ounces of cream or lotion and mix.
Reference: Kathleen F. Benson, Joni L. Beaman,Boxin Ou, Ademola Okubena, Olajuwon Okubena, and Gitte S. Jensen (2013) West African Sorghum bicolor Leaf Sheaths Have Anti-Inflammatory and Immune-Modulating Properties In Vitro, J Med Food, 16: 230–238.
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We are now selling a higher grade extract standardized for 90% EGCG. The higher grade means that less powder is required in products, reducing the color change effect that green tea has on formulations.
Of the many valuable chemicals present in green tea, polyphenols and catechins, like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) in particular, are really good for us and our skin. Scientific research illustrates EGCG to be effective as an antioxidant, in repair of damage done by UVA radiation, antitumor (benign and malignant), and in prevention of damaging mutations. Another benefit of EGCG is in acne control, helping to keep pores open by controlling sebum secretion.
This is an ingredient in Teamineâ„¢ and ReViveâ„¢ lines.
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Acne is a normal skin condition that makes us unhappy.
Outside the ads that try to catch desperate people looking for miracles, there is no easy solution (or cure) for acne. There are no miracles to be found in the real world. The good news is that we know enough about acne to control it, and this is a great achievement.
My main sources of information regarding new ingredients are
- The ingredient lists for thousands of products in the market. Reading thousands of ingredient lists is boring, but also re-assuring because it means that we are still the best.
- Scientific publications reporting how chemicals, synthetic or natural, affect processes related to acne.
- Our own clients and forum members who write to me suggesting new actives. This is the way that I "discovered" nobiletin.
The skin care industry continues to introduce "new products", but whatever the name of the new "miracle" products it always comes back to salicylic acid and/or benzoyl peroxide. Nothing new under the sun. Usually, there is a "stinging" ingredient (menthol or a derivative) added to make you think that "something" is happening. This stinging ingredients can only make things worse, because stinging has no connection with the acne lesion but at high concentration they can increase inflammation.
If there is a danger in the usual anti-acne products is that "fast buck" companies don't care about the long-term health of their clients' skin. They will use benzoyl peroxide even if medium term this ingredient will aggravate acne, by decimating the natural bacterial flora of the skin and age skin, by flushing the skin with a strong oxidant that will promote DNA mutations and more.
This is why you will find in our acne control kit the following actives:
| Anti-inflammatory |
Oleuropein, wild yam, niacinamide |
| Normalize keratinization |
Salicylic acid, salicin, retinyl acetate |
| Anti-acne bacteria |
Nobiletin, Coleus, galangal, granulysin |
| Decrease sebum secretion |
Nobiletin, zinc, EGCG |
| Immune response enhancer |
Yeast beta glucan |
| Inhibitor of 5alpha-reductase activity |
Saw palmetto, zinc, gamma linolenic acid (abundant in borage oil), EGCG |
Don’t look among them for the miracle active. They work well together but no miracles, just biochemistry.
The use of ascorbic acid and its derivatives in cosmetics.
Fashion in cosmetics is fickle, even more fickle than in the rest of daily life. It is a job for a sociologist (not for me) to study why a particular ingredient becomes fashionable, but it is up to me to decide whether said fashionable ingredient should make it into the very selective panel of ingredients used by SAS. Some of those decisions I made it with difficulty. Argireline, for example, is a peptide with a fancy name but very weak evidence that it works. There is, however, no evidence of possible damage to the skin.
Other selections I have made with strong restrictions, like copper peptide, shown to accelerate healing but little else, and with published evidence that at high concentrations it is definitely toxic to the human body. We only use it (and sell it) at very low concentrations chosen on the basis of the research published in reputable scientific journals.
One of the most popular ingredients today is ascorbic acid, a.k.a. vitamin C. This one comes with the heavy evidence required by science to use the term "vitamin", i.e. "essential for the normal growth and development of a multicellular organism." Indeed, ascorbate is a cofactor in the post-translational transformation of collagen by the enzyme prolyl hydroxylase, a modification that also changes the physical properties of the protein. Ascorbic acid has also been shown to promote transcription of genes involved in collagen synthesis and protect the skin from some effects of UV radiation.
Some take home points:
- Not all ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) derivatives function as Vitamin C; this activity has to be demonstrated experimentally by showing that ascorbic acid is present in the cells.
- Ascorbic acid promotes collagen maturation: ascorbate is a cofactor in the post-translational transformation of collagen by the enzyme prolyl hydroxylase, a modification that also changes the physical properties of the protein).
- Other activities are: antioxidant, promotion (through RNA transcription) of collagen synthesis, protection from UV damage.
- The activity of ascorbic acid on collagen maturation requires very low concentration, microM
- Despite all the emphasis on the use of L-ascorbic acid, it seems that D-ascorbic acid can replace the L- isomer (although used at higher concentration.
- Although in theory both ascorbyl phosphate salts (magnesium and sodium) should work the same, in reality the sodium salt does not work well at all, probably because sodium is causing trouble at the concentrations the ascorbyl phosphates are used.
At SAS, we use L-ascorbic acid and Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Our formulations "make sense", i.e. they are made using the accumulated scientific knowledge and good chemistry. For example, our collagen serum contains both EGF and MAP, leading to a more comprehensive promotion of cell metabolism. Although we may focus on collagen as key to skin health, there is more to skin health than just collagen synthesis.
Zinc, the forgotten metal.
I don't have to remind anybody of the use of copper in skin care, thanks to one particular company that calls copper peptide "the molecule of life" many people came to think of copper peptide as a miracle ingredient. In fact, one of the most frequent questions I receive is how much copper we want in our skin care products. The answer is "practically none, unless you have a recent wound." This is because copper is essential for a few enzymes but at very low concentrations it becomes toxic. This is why it is required at "trace" concentrations. In relation to skin health, its main role is in the maturation of collagen structure, where it is required as a cofactor for the enzyme prolyl hydroxylase.
One of the reasons for copper toxicity is it competition with Zinc, a metal we need at higher concentrations than copper and essential for many more processes.
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Question: As a post-menopausal woman and never having used hormone replacement therapy, I wanted something natural that would simulate HRT. Found a product called Lifeflo EstroCare (transdermal in hand cream) and have been using that. I don't have symptoms to relieve, just wanted to slow down the bad effects of menopause by substituting a faux estrogen product. Had this brilliant idea of just putting Elixir 10 into a base cream maybe along with some soy isoflavones. I am wondering if Elixir 10 would be a better substitute and would appreciate your advice on Elixir 10 being a transdermal substitute for hormone replacement therapy.
Answer: If a phytoestrogen works is because it binds to the same receptor that your endogenous hormones binds to. Phytoestrogens evolved in plants to decrease the number of progeny of predators that would eat the plant, acting as a contraceptive on the male of the species.
From the point of view of cancer prevention, any chemical, synthetic, natural, plant derived or whatever, that stimulates growth of the cancer cells, will still promote cancer. The cancer cells don't care about where the chemical is coming from, as long as it binds to the receptor with certain affinity. If you take the "faux" estrogens orally they will still reach the breast tissue.
What do you think would be the advantage of using plants derived estrogens instead of using a synthetic chemical identical to our endogenous hormone (of the Activella type)?
Very little of the Elixir10 will be reaching the breast if applied topically. Applying a transdermal patch would defeat the purpose, because the chemicals in the patch will reach the blood (and the breast tissue).
Unfortunately, cancer is an illness inherent to aging. People will get cancer even if they use no synthetic chemicals, even if they are vegans. Cancer is a disease of cells that multiply out of control. Cancer has to do with certain mutations (not really with estrogen overload). Maybe you could find out whether you have the bad mutation. If you don't, there is no need to worry. If you do, maybe you will want to talk to an MD regarding possible solutions.
There are some great books about cancer. One: http://www.amazon.com/The-Emperor-All-Maladies-Biography/dp/1439170916/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403639147&sr=8-1&keywords=cancer+books
Question: I understand that ceramide E is synthesized ceramide, however is there a reason you only sell ceramide E and not the numbered ceramics found in so many cosmetic ingredients?
Answer: I went to the INCI nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) itself and look at the detailed information. All the ceramides listed in the INCI seem to be synthetic.
There are natural ceramides, of course, but they are sold only by chemical companies like Sigma. The favorite sources are not plants but cow brain, which is not even allowed in skin care products (for very good reasons).
The "numbered" ceramides are all synthetic, and they vary in the side chains. Even this seems to be tentative, as each company has its own trade name for a given ceramide, and these are solutions, not pure solids. For example, an ingredient is sold in solution made of water, retinyl palmitate, denatured alcohol, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 6 II, tocopheryl acetate, palmitic acid and oleic acid.
We do not like to use "undefined mixesâ€, just like I would not use in the lab an undefined mix of anything, they make for irreproducible effscts.
The role for ceramides in skin is to provide a physical barrier to water loss, because they are wax-like lipids. They are also a main component of the waxy substance that covers newborns (vernix caseosa) protecting them from water in the womb. But ceramides are also signal-lipids, and this is not something we want to play with. From the point of view of skin health, you want something with the waxy property (prevent water loss) without giving the complicated signals that ceramides give depending on structure and location.
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