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Splicing Tools - Get Ready to Learn to Make Eye Splices
What do the Boy Scouts, rock climbers, sailors and aerial riggers have in common? If you said rope, knots and/or splices, you are correct.
There is no doubt about it: a splice is much stronger than a knot. Sure, eye splices do take more time to complete than most loop knots, but a bulky knot cannot compare to the sleekness of an eye splice, and a splice is far more secure. Because aerial riggers need to make eye splices, I have decided to devote the next several issues to making eye splices in different types of rope.
Since different tools work best for different types of rope, this issue will focus on the proper tools for making splices. In this issue, I will describe the different types of fids used to help make splices and explain which type of rope they work best for.
In future articles I will explain how to use these tools to actually make eye splices. So, read on, get the tools you need and prepare to learn to make eye splices this summer.
Fids—An overview
The term “fid” (sometimes spelled "phid") can be used to describe: 1) a length, or 2) a tool for working with rope.
Definition 1. A fid length is relative to the diameter of the rope. A “short fid” is seven times the diameter of the rope; a “long fid” is 14 times the diameter of the rope; and a “full fid” is 21 times the diameter of the rope. If just “fid” is used to indicate a measurement length, it typically means “full fid.”
Note: Some splicing instructions ask you to measure in fid lengths, while other instructions simply use rope diameters as a means for measuring lengths. Just don't get confused by this definition.
Definition 2. Fids are tools used to open the lay of the rope in order to pass part of the rope through the opening. Depending on the construction and size of the rope, different types of fids can be used. Below are descriptions of some common type of rope fids.
Closed fids
A closed fid is a spike that can be inserted between the strands or lay of a rope. These fids are usually made of hardwood or metal. Lots of tools can substitute for a closed fid. A marlinspike or a scratch awl can work on smaller diameter rope, while the spike of a spud wrench (my personal favorite) works well on larger diameter rope.
Image 1 – Wooden fid
Open fids
I prefer an open fid to a closed fid for splicing three-strand twisted rope that is less than 1-1/4” inches in diameter. This type of fid not only opens the lay, but also provides a tunnel through which to easily pass or tuck one strand of a rope under another strand when making a splice. Once you get the hang of using this type of fid, you can quickly put a splice in a three-strand twisted rope.
Image 2 – Point Harbor Fid by Brion Toss
Image 3 - SeaDog Line Fid
Image 4 – A variation on an open fid
made by SeaDog Line.
You can also make your own open fids. I make several sizes of fids from PVC tubing.
Image 5 – A PVC fid made by the author
If you are planning to splice three-strand rope, an open fid is very useful, especially when work with polyester rope. My personal favorite is the Point Hudson fid by Brion Toss. This and other tools can be found at http://briontoss.com. Brion makes two sizes of Point Hudson Fids. While it is a bit pricey, the Point Hudson Fid has a great feel and works really well. My second favorites are the PVC fids that I make. I make PVC fids for different sizes of rope from different sizes of PVC tubing.
Tubular splicing fids
Tubular fids, usually made of aluminum (and occasionally plastic), work very well on most constructions of rope, except three-strand twisted rope, where an Open Fid works much better. Each tubular fid is intended for a specific diameter of rope. They are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased individually or in sets. Samson Rope makes Metal Splicing Fids for 1/4" to 1" diameter ropes.
Image 6 – Tubular fid
The more I work with aluminum tubular fids, the more I like them. They work like giant sewing needles to "pull" the core of the rope.
If you are new to splicing rope, I suggest that you start by purchasing a good Open Fid and several Tubular Fids, in the sizes for the ropes you plan to splice the most.
Below are other fids/tools that you might consider.
Wire fids
A wire fid is a very simple fid that can be used with either single or double-braided rope. Don’t let its simplicity fool you; this can be a very useful tool. Both tubular fids and wire fids work like needles. Attach one end of the rope to the tail of the fid (usually using a piece of tape to hold it in place). Then inset the fid into the rope at the desired location, bring it out at the exit point, and pull the rope end rope behind the fid. You can purchase these or make your own.
Image 7 – Wire fid
The splicing wand
Brion Toss’s Splicing Wand is another tool making splices rope. Unlike wire and tubular fids, this tool uses a snare to pull one part of the rope through another. Insert the wand at the exit point and out at the entry point. Then use the snare to grab the end of the rope and pull the end of the rope with it. This tool comes in several sizes.
Image 8 – The splicing wand by Brion Toss
Yale Cordage Wire Basket Fid is an odd look fid. It has a wire mesh on the tail of the fid that acts like a “Chinese finger-cuff” that grabs onto the rope being “pulled.” This is a fairly expensive fid, but it works with many sizes of rope and is fast and easy to use.
Images 9 and 10 – Yale Cordage Wire Basket Fid
Some Basic Supplies
Now, let’s look at some of the basic tools/supplies for making splices. I have a special toolbox for storing all of my splicing tools and supplies. This makes it easy to keep all my splicing tools in one place so that I have everything I need, when I need it.
Rolls of electrical tape – Tape will be used to bind the ends of strands so that they are easier to pass under other strands, to help hold the rope onto your fid, to make a smooth taper between the rope and the fid, and for other uses. Electrical tape is strong and does not leave residue on the rope when it is removed.
Ruler (12” long) – Splicing instructions will call for specific lengths to be measured. Sometimes these lengths will be specified in “fid lengths” (discussed later) and sometimes in multiples of the rope’s diameter. I have found that a 12-inch long ruler easily fits into my toolbox and is easier to use than a tape measure.
Sharp scissors – Get a good pair of sharp scissors to keep in your splicing toolbox. You will use them very often.
Sharp knife – There are a few times when you just need a large, sharp knife. Get a 10” chef’s knife, sharpen it well, and keep it in your splicing toolbox.
Note: You might want to consider a ceramic knife, especially if you need to cut Spectra or other high strength ropes. Ceramic knifes are VERY shape and stay sharp 10 times longer than steel knives. More care must be taken with storing and using ceramic knives than with steel knives (I highly recommend knife covers for ceramic knives), but these super sharp knives are a joy to cut with. You may have to do some searching to find reasonably priced ceramic knives, but they are available.
Ice pick or scratch awl – These tools can very handy tool for helping you separate the cover yarns on double-braided or parallel core ropes and pulling the core out of the cover. While they may seem like strange tools for splicing, you will find them extremely valuable for some tasks.
Felt tip markers (two colors) – You will probably need several ways to mark points on the rope, but for marking the core of a double-braided or parallel core ropes, felt-tip markers cannot be beat. Have at least two colors of markers in your toolbox. (I like fine point Sharpie markers).
#20 darning needle – A large darning needle, available at most fabric stores, is the perfect tool for stitching through the throat of an eye splice to secure it.
A hammer (almost any type or size will work) - No, I have not lost my mind. When making an eye splice in large diameter double-braid or parallel core rope, put the hammer’s handle through the eye and jerk on the handle. This puts even force on both parts of the rope and helps pull the core into the cover. This method works better than any I have found. Plus, it never hurts to have a hammer at your disposal.
Conclusion
The two keys to doing any job well are (1) having the right tools for the job, and (2) practicing until you thoroughly know how to do the job. These keys certainly apply to doing splices. So, get your tools together and get ready to start making splices.
Safe rigging.
-Delbert
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