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The Taproot Magazine of the Clemson Extension Tri-County Master Gardeners.
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THE TAPROOT MAGAZINE
Fourth Quarter 2017 
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Contents

 

1. Southern Garden History Society: 
"Roots of the Bluegrass"
Lexington, Kentucky 

Deborah Getter 


2. The Winter Months
Judy Dunbar and Angel Clarke
 
3. Cat's Whisker - new favorite plant 
Linda Wood 
   
4. The Global Seed Vault
Yvette Richardson Guy 

5. Sea Island Cotton at McLeod Plantation
Beverly Thornley 

6. Leaf Footed Nymph 
Elizabeth Bradley

7. The Name Game 
Darren Sheriff

8. Evolving in the Lowcountry
Patricia Hawthorn

9. Caterpillars in my Garden
Patti Bagg
 

I'm sorry to say that I missed adding Deborah Getter's photos to her article in the last Taproot Magazine.  The article is running again with all of Deborah's pictures and I hope you will all enjoy seeing each one of these wonderful historical venues.  My apologies to Deborah!  I know she put a lot of work into this article. 


SOUTHERN GARDEN HISTORY SOCIETY: 


"ROOTS OF THE BLUEGRASS"

LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY



by Deborah Getter MG 2013
 

You may remember an article I wrote about the Historic Landscape Institute last summer held at Monticello in conjunction with the University of Virginia. It was there that I met the president of the Southern Garden History Society and some of their members.  It sounded like a worthwhile group to be a part of as they are enthusiasts and professionals that fosters and shares scholarly research about our historic gardens, cultural landscapes, and horticultural history through educational programs and publications.  They celebrate the beauty and diversity of the South’s historic gardens and encourage their preservation and restoration so they may enrich the lives of others.

Their region of interest covers 14 states from Maryland to Texas including the District of Columbia.  Membership is open to all that are interested in southern gardens and landscapes. Go to  www.southerngardenhistory.org.  An annual meeting is held each spring in different locations across the south.  Last year the group visited Charleston, SC.  This year it was Lexington, KY and next year it will be Jacksonville, FL.  At each meeting the members gather to study the garden and landscape history of that area, take informative garden tours, hear educational lectures, and gather for social events that encourage membership interaction.  This year the society awarded a scholarship to a student in Charleston enrolled at the American College of the Building Arts.  The society also co-sponsors the Conference on Restoring Southern Gardens and Landscapes every two years in Winston-Salem, NC.  The Lexington event was my first to attend and I had such a good time I have already registered for Winston-Salem.

A quick rundown of the itinerary included educational lectures on “Roots of the Bluegrass:  Historic Overview”; “Olmsted, Olmsted Brothers and Lexington, Kentucky”; “A Splendid View:  Creating Beauty in the Bluegrass, 1796-1929”; ”Venerable Trees;  History, Biology and Conservation in the Bluegrass”; “Henry Clay’s Promised Land, Ashland, Henry Clay Estate”; and “History of the Ashland Garden”.

The garden tours included: 



Botherum
 

Botherum, built around 1850, showing a combination of Greek, Roman, and Gothic architectural elements.  A large ginkgo tree on the property is said to have been a gift from Henry Clay.  Originally it was a 36-acre estate but now sits on a ¾ acre lot.  It is surrounded by beautiful gardens, lovingly replanted and revived by Jon Carloftis Fine Gardens.  Botherum is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.



Round Barn of Red Mile, formerly known as Floral Barn
 

Round Barn of Red Mile, formerly known as Floral Barn was built in 1882 adjacent to the Red Mile Trotting Track.  It is approximately 4 stories tall surmounted by a large windowed cupola with a functional design for use as an exhibition hall for floral displays.  In 1963 the name of the building was changed to the Stable of Memories.



Ashland, the Henry Clay Estate
 

Ashland, the Henry Clay Estate-The Garden at Ashland was established in 1950 when the Garden Club of Lexington was asked by the Henry Clay Memorial Foundation to create a formal garden on the grounds of Ashland.  During the era of Henry Clay, the estate was planted with almost every known variety of American shrubbery and trees.  There was a windbreak of pines, a row of cherries, trellises covered with grapevines, 4 large squares for vegetables bordered with shrubs and “sweet old garden flowers.”  In 1950 the original garden was in a state of neglect.  In a close vote the Garden Club decided to create a new garden located next to the original rather than restoring the old garden.   Landscape Architect Henry Kenney was selected to design a formal garden divided into six parterres with a yew hedge and a brick wall to enclose the garden.  Today it is home to over 120 varieties of trees, shrubs, and flowers.



Darby Dan Farm
 

Darby Dan Farm, one of the most beautiful horse farms you would expect to see when touring the Bluegrass, with miles of fencing and carefully nurtured landscaping all done for the horses’ benefit.  The Darby Dan Manor House was built in 1828 with the surrounding property operated as a tobacco plantation.  At the beginning of the 20th century it was purchased to accomplish the dream of developing a top-rate equine facility.  It produced 4 Kentucky Derby winners in 1921, ‘26, ‘32 and ‘33.  The property was purchased again in the 1950’s.  This owner produced 6 Kentucky Derby winners, 2 Belmont winners, 2 Breeders cup winners along with a Preakness and English Derby winner and countless other Grade I winners.



Keeneland Racecourse
 

Keeneland Racecourse, its beautiful, park-like grounds are open to the public every day. In 1933 the closing of the historic Kentucky Association track left the Horse Capital of the World without a race track for the 1st time in 100 years.  In 1935 a volunteer committee began their quest to bring racing back to Lexington at Keeneland.  Keeneland’s sprawling stone clubhouse, grandstand, and other original structures were quarried from native Kentucky limestone.  It is one of the world’s 1st and only not-for-profit tracks.  In 1986 Keeneland was designated a National Historic Landmark, only the 2nd racecourse in the nation to receive landmark status.  Keeneland maintains its own plant nursery to replace as needed any plants, shrubbery or trees on the grounds.



Lexington Cemetery
 

Lexington Cemetery-At the request of a group of Lexington’s most prominent citizens, the Kentucky General Assembly approved an act on February 5, 1848, that incorporated the Lexington Cemetery Company and authorized it to establish a rural, or garden, cemetery.  Charles S. Bell, from Scotland was hired on April 1, 1849 as the first general manager of the Lexington Cemetery.  His dream was to create a park-like, landscaped cemetery in Lexington.  Inspired by his training in Scotland as a horticulturist, Bell brought to the area a new “rural” concept that originated in Europe and was practiced in Boston, Massachusetts.  It was the responsibility of Bell to complete the landscaping and horticultural work.

Today the Lexington Cemetery encompasses 170 acres.  It has a reputation for being one of the most beautiful cemeteries in America.  There are over 200 species of trees and shrubs within the grounds, as well as 3 lakes with goldfish and waterfowl.  Trees in the Lexington Cemetery have been allowed to grow naturally with no use of insecticides or fertilizers.  In most cases, these trees are the best specimens of their species growing in the area.



Gainesway
 

Gainesway is a premier Thoroughbred farm in Kentucky’s Bluegrass Region.  Gainesway’s 1500 acres are managed to maximize the land’s natural beauty.  In 2016 Gainesway achieved Level II arboretum status through ArbNet, making it the only horse farm in the world with such accreditation.  The property currently hold 10,000 accessions representing about 1000 species of plants, shrubs, and trees, including 70 species of oak alone.                                          

Established in the late 1990’s, the formal garden is the zenith of Gainesway’s many residence gardens.  It consists of more than a dozen gardens with aesthetic viewpoints created to entice a person to move from one area to the next.  One of the first projects to be planted is named in honor of renowned garden designer Rosemary Verey.  Ms. Verey visited the site in 2000 and spent several days laying out her plans and discussing the details with the owner and resident garden designer.            

When the leveling process for Rosemary’s Garden began, it was discovered the site was composed of heavy clay, making for an excellent foundation for the paths and brick work, but not for growing the vegetables and roses.  A drainage system was installed and each bed excavated, replacing the heavy clay with rich mixed soil.

For new plantings, the resident garden designer considers the site’s relationship to the house, the surrounding land, and the other gardens so as to achieve a natural flow.



Gratz Park Historic District
 

Gratz Park Historic District occupies a tract of land that was established in 1781.  Gratz Park is named for early Lexington businessman Benjamin Gratz.  In 1958 Gratz Park was named the first official local historic district in Lexington, as well as of the Commonwealth of Kentucky.  The park was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979.  Numerous historic homes and lush gardens are located around the perimeter of Gratz Park, making it a desirable location for homeowners and visitors alike.

 

Hunt-Morgan House

Hunt-Morgan House stands as a reminder of early 19th century life, when Lexington was known as The Athens of the West.  Built in 1814, the Federal style Hunt-Morgan House has many beautiful architectural features, including the Palladian window with fan and sidelights that grace its front façade.  John Wesley Hunt’s business empire included interest in banking, horse breeding, agriculture and hemp manufacturing.

Cave Hill

Cave Hill was built in 1821 by David Bryan, who named it for the large cave on the property where food was stored during the summer months.  In 1925, Dutch business man Christian DeWaal purchased Cave Place, he died before realizing his dream of establishing a thoroughbred horse farm at Cave Place, but the DeWaals did plan and execute a formal garden inspired both by the work of Dutch landscape artists and their interest in the gardens of China.  They engaged renowned landscape architect Ellen Biddle Shipman, who constructed her plan within the existing 19th century walled garden.


A formal boxwood design outlined brick-laid paths and enclosed beds of anchusa, foxgloves, lilies, peonies, and delphiniums.  Wisterias twined over the crescent-shaped fountain in the wall.  With her love of Chinese culture, Mrs. DeWaal requested many Oriental details in the garden.  On each side was a Ming figure, and 2 great Ching fish bowls were found along the walks of old brick.  The figure of the Chinese Goddess of Agriculture stood at the door of a teahouse, which had a cock perched on its roof.  Of special interest were the French Hybrid lilacs which won prizes at New York flower shows.      

Shipman’s plans for Cave Hill reside at Cornell University in the Division of Rare and Manuscript Collections, Carl A. Kroch Library.  Only recently have these plans been identified as Shipman’s work at Cave Hill, and it is obvious from contemporary photographs that her plans were carried out.  Since that time there have been changes to the garden but its bones are intact.  In the 1970’s during a restoration of the executive mansion in Frankfort, Cave Hill serves as the residence of Governor John Y. Brown, Jr. and First Lady Phyllis George.



THE WINTER MONTHS 


December, January and February

by Judy Dunbar MG 2016 & Angel Clarke MG 2016
 
                                              
A subtle chill in the air is often a sign that winter is on its way. For those of us in the Lowcountry, it is a welcoming sign that our long heated days will inevitably succumb to shorter days and cooler nights.  Life in the garden continues on as we zip up our coats and slip our woolen socks into our boots. We hope you find these winter garden tips helpful in preparation for our cooler days, along with turf suggestions from Mike Dixon. Before we know it, spring planning will once again be upon us.
 
 
Early- Winter Tasks: December
 
  • Provide food and water for our winged population.
  • Fertilize winter annuals and check for aphids.
  • Harvest crops that are still producing, like lettuce, arugula and mesclun. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/vegetables//gardening/hgic1262.html
  • Start working your flowerbeds and garden plots for next season. Turn the soil to expose insects and weed seeds to the elements.
  • Submit soil samples for your lawn, flowerbeds and vegetable garden.
  • Water and fertilizer your houseplants less frequently over the next couple of months.
  • Plant and mulch roses, trees, and shrubs making sure to keep soil well-watered.  www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1172.html
  • Plant spring flowering bulbs. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1155.html
  • Purchase a live Christmas tree for the holidays, and transplant it outdoors in January.
  • Place potted poinsettias in bright light,  away from drafts. Water twice a week. Remove decorative wrapping to allow proper drainage.
  • Continue setting out hardy annuals/biennials, and sow hardy seeds.
  • Start to manage newly emerging winter weeds in turf with appropriate herbicide.
 
 
Mid- Winter Tasks: January
   
 
Late- Winter Tasks: February
 
  • Turn compost pile so microbes will get plenty of oxygen allowing it to be ready when you are. Try turning it over every week or so, before working into your garden. 
  • Continue pruning summer-flowering trees and shrubs, and transplanting cool season flowers.
  • Divide and transplant perennials including asters, coreopsis, chrysanthemums, daylilies, gaillardias, and shasta daisies. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/flowers/hgic1150.html
  • Submit soil sample to prepare for spring planting. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/other/soils/hgic1652.html
  • Prune hardy bush roses in late February. Climbers, shrub roses, and old garden roses that bloom only once in the spring should not be pruned until after they bloom, but cut out dead, diseased, and twiggy growth whenever you spot it). (Remember that spring-flowering shrubs—those that flower before June 1—are not pruned until after bloom.
  • Prune hydrangeas remembering that many bloom on second-year wood, so leave enough unpruned stalks to ensure flowers this year; you can prune the others next year.
  • Fertilize azaleas and camellias with fertilizer specially formulated for these acid-loving plants.
  • Plant onion sets, Irish potato tubers, and broccoli, collards, lettuce and radish seeds.
  • Plant seed flats indoors: eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, as well as annual and perennial herbs.
  • Apply pre-emergent herbicides to lawn when daytime temperatures reach 65 - 70 degrees for 4-5 consecutive days.
 
As in the previous issues, we’ve combined tips from Taproot when F.Brian Smith was the County Extension Agent, along with P.J. Gartin ’90 and Jan Youngquist ’92 plus, suggestions from B. Polomski’s book, Month by Month Gardening in the Carolinas (2000), as well as a more current publication, DK Publishing, The Gardener’s Year (2015). Content was reviewed and finalized by Jan Litton ’98 and Clemson Extension agent, Amy Dabbs.

CAT'S WHISKER - new favorite plant
 


by Linda Wood MG 2013

Last year a really neat plant was introduced into the Nathaniel Russell House Garden by Bob Cox, the horticulturist who leads our volunteer crew.  Every few weeks he brings something in for us to plant.  This time it was Cat’s Whisker. I had never seen or heard of this plant but it certainly has an interesting name and it's flower does resemble cats whiskers.  The plant is about two feet wide with beautiful bright green pointy leaves and grows about two feet tall.  Small flowers cover the top 4-6 inches in spikes and the flowers protrude from curving white stamens that resemble cats whiskers. Thus the name. The white flowers are stunning. Or you may prefer those plants with bluish-purple flowers. It's generic name is Orthosiphon aristatus and it is a member of the mint family. Besides the name cats whiskers, it is also known as Java tea, as its leaves are said to be used to make a tea that acts as a diuretic.
In our Charleston heat this plant does best in filtered light. Soil should be rich in organics and drain well. Several inches of mulch are beneficial around the roots. Consistent watering is essential when the top few inches of soil are dry.  Fertilize in spring and summer. New growth is promoted by deadheading.
This plant has several great attributes besides its beauty. It is a perennial that attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. It comes back strongly in late June, blooming throughout the fall. It is basically pest free.  And it can be propagated by cuttings or seeds.
I was curious as to how this plant would do the second summer and it did not disappoint. It did come back full and strong. It is still blooming now in late October. And cuttings of softer green tips have easily rooted by just sticking them in potting soil.
  Once you see this plant you will want it!


THE GLOBAL SEED VAULT    

Yvette Richardson Guy MG 2003


 
On a remote island in the Svalbard archipelago, about halfway between the mainland of Norway and the North Pole, is the Global Seed Vault sunk into a glacier covering a mountainside.  Around the world, there are more than 1,700 seed vault sites but many of them are under-funded, under-staffed or vulnerable due to war or other threats.  The inventories of those seed banks are backed up at the Global Seed Vault whose mission is to preserve examples of all the food crops on Earth.  Just as each book copyrighted in the United States has a copy filed with the Library of Congress in Washington, DC, each seed deposit recorded in the world’s regional seed banks has a duplicate deposit accessioned with the worldwide collection in Norway.  The “Doomsday Vault” opened in 2008, and is approaching one million recorded seed deposits.
 

The International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Areas (ICARDA) which is responsible for preserving the genetic information (seeds) of ancient and traditional food crops of the Middle East, principally the Fertile Crescent, turned to the Global Vault during the past decade to replenish its partially destroyed inventory.  ICARDA is based in Aleppo, Syria, which suffered so much destruction during the Syrian Civil War.  Only now is ICARDA getting agents back in the field (literally) to collect seeds to replace those lost in the war and also to replenish the seed deposits at the worldwide collection site.  Many of those new fields were created by using seeds from Global Seed Vault deposits. The ICARDA situation is dramatic and is the only example of a withdrawal from the vault thus far.  In the end, seeds taken out must be replaced to maintain its comprehensive collections.
 
The Global Seed Vault first attracted my attention because of its architecture.  By training and profession, I am an architectural historian and there is no denying the dramatic statement made by that wedge slashing into the Arctic whiteness.  First I looked at it as a stunning work of functional design.  Then I delved deeper into that function and became more fascinated.

The striking quality of the design is heightened by the long dark Arctic winter when the structure’s stained glass glows through the roof and above the entry doors.

To find into more detailed information of how the facility works, visit the interactive website at https://www.croptrust.org/our-work/svalbard-global-seed-vault/.
Cary Fowler has written about his experience as the executive director of the Global Crop Diversity Trust from 2005 to 2012.  He was influential in the creation of the Global Seed Vault.  His book is Seeds on Ice (Prospecta Press, 2016) and offers even more background material.


SEA ISLAND COTTON AT

MCLEOD PLANTATION 


by Beverly Thornley MG 2014
 
CCPRC Cotton


When the Master Gardener opportunity to be part of a cotton growing project at McLeod Plantation I was really interested. 
In the 18th century, Sea Island cotton was grown extensively in the Lowcountry. It thrived in our climate and brought great wealth to the local plantation owners. This particular strain of cotton was thought to be extinct by the early 20th century. Then a USDA seed bank at Texas A & M discovered Sea Island cotton seed that had come from Bleak Hall Plantation on Edisto Island. Local author and botanist Richard Porcher and attorney William McLean, in partnership with Charleston County Parks and Recreation, obtained seeds to plant on a fourth of an acre at McLeod Plantation. 


The land was cleared, then a soil sample was obtained and tested. The Ph was scaled at 5.4. All other results were in a sufficient range to grow cotton.  Dolomitic limestone was applied to bring the Ph up to 6.5. Seeds were planted on a grey, humid day in mid-May. Lines were marked at 100-feet long and 4-feet apart. Seeds were planted 18-inches apart.


Then out group of volunteers began to weed and watch . By June 6th 128 Sea Island cotton seeds had germinated. This number grew to 400 +/-. We weeded and hoed the soil, taking care not to disturb the surface feeder roots. In the hot and humid summer days we talked of how it took 40 slaves a day to care for cotton on the 1,693 acres that once comprised the McLeod Plantation. We were thankful that our work was for only 1-2 hours and not an extended day! 


The plants were fertilized with 20 lbs of Espoma organic 18-0-3. Later, another 20 lbs of Espoma organic 15-0-5 was added for fiber production benefits from the additional potassium. We found it to be very interesting that the Sea Island cotton needed so much nitrogen. 


By August, the plants were healthy enough to produce 'squares', a term applied to the flower bud. Soon there were squares all over the plants! Then came the first white/yellow flower which,thankfully, is self-pollinating. After 3-days the flower fades to deep pink, then drops as the boll forms.   Early flowers appeared gradually, then accelerated. Nine bolls had opened by the end of September! It was very exciting. No watering was done, as rainfall appeared to be sufficient. Even the storm that came through didn't deter plant growth. 


Each time I was there tourists and visitors were curious and interested to hear the Sea Island cotton history. Interestingly, the McLeod Plantation grew this cotton staple through the Civil War and into the 1920's. At that point, it was no longer profitable, then eventually forgotten and never planted. It was believed to be extinct until now! 


 The first day of cotton picking arrived in the last week of October. The weather was cool and the pesky ants that swarmed over the transpiring leaves had gone. Eight of us picked for about 40-minutes and produced 51.25 ounces. Not a great deal, but knowing that boll opening is slow to start, we are hoping for a reasonable yield for next years seed planting. An interesting project and not a single boll weevil has been found. I'm looking forward to next years look, weed, pick, and learn. 
 


LEAF FOOTED NYMPH  


by Elizabeth Bradley MG 2012
 

Thankfully I walked outside the other day to look at some of my plants in our courtyard. I found these insects neatly grouped on one leaf of my plant. I have never seen anything like this before!  Of course I had to do some research to see what these creatures were. Whatever they were they look like they have their life together better than I do! So organized! I'm kind of jealous! 
 
It was determined to be either the Leaf Footed Nymph or the Assassin Nymph.  Assassin bugs usually travel independently. When you see them in clusters like this, it usually means they are leaf footed nymphs.

There are a few behavioral characteristics that may help distinguish between the leaf footed bugs and the assassin bugs.  The assassin bugs are usually loners that are observed sneaking up and “assassinating” their prey.  If you get near them, they may rare-up on long thin legs and extend their proboscis (nose) forward.  Also carefully observe the surrounding vegetation for assassin bugs that have captured prey.  Their proboscis has injected digestive enzymes into the prey for liquefaction, which does take time. Handling the latter nymphs and adults can result in a nasty bite.  So, be careful in capturing these bugs for children.

The nymphs of the leaf-footed bugs usually stay together to attack plants in packs that may include adults, and other pest-bugs. (Which I noticed I had an infestation of whiteflies at the same time).  A joint pest-effort in overcoming the plants defense system is typically seen on unhealthy plants. (In my case the plants are healthy but wouldn’t be for long.) The proboscis will be kept under the belly of the bug. It never goes forward like the assassin bug’s exhibit. Assassin bugs usually travel independently. When you see them in clusters like this, it usually means they are leaf footed nymphs.

The message is to make an effort to ID and keep the beneficial bugs, for they are the balance in the ecosystem of your garden or ornamentals. Killing all bugs in a wide-spread area throws this system out of balance in favor of the pests that have the quicker and more abundant reproductive cycles.

IPM is first choice before spraying with pesticides.  Integrated pest management, or IPM, is a process you can use to solve pest problems while minimizing risks to people and the environment. IPM can be used to manage all kinds of pests anywhere—in urban, agricultural, and wildland or natural areas. 

IPM is an ecosystem-based strategy that focuses on long-term prevention of pests or their damage through a combination of techniques such as biological control, habitat manipulation, modification of cultural practices, and use of resistant varieties. Pesticides are used only after monitoring indicates they are needed according to established guidelines, and treatments are made with the goal of removing only the target organism. Pest control materials are selected and applied in a manner that minimizes risks to human health, beneficial and non-target organisms, and the environment. 
 
In my case I was able to remove the whole group of leaf footed bugs by cutting the one leaf off and letting the leaf with the group of bugs drop into a baggy that had water and dish detergent in it. Leaf footed bugs cannot swim…a little sad. I have a soft spot in my heart for any creature.
 
I had to do something about the awful infestation of whiteflies after I removed the leaf footed bugs from my little plants.  I mixed some water with a small amount of Dawn detergent to spray the leaves being sure to get the undersides.  Fortunately, the two plants that were infected with the whiteflies and leaf footed bugs were very small plants and I was able to rub the whiteflies off the leaves while spraying. I am continuing to monitor those little plants every day.  I have read that whiteflies are near impossible to get rid of.
 
Here are some other soap sprays that can be made at home:
 
Soap sprays can be made at home using ingredients which are commonly used and found around the house. That said, most garden professionals recommend using a commercial soap spray that is specifically formulated for this purpose and is safer to use with more predictable results. Commercially formulated horticultural soaps are readily available at most garden supply stores and are sold as either a concentrate or ready-to-use (RTU).
 
There are several ways to make an insecticidal soap. The choice depends on the ingredients on hand and the extent to which one wants to use natural ingredients, i.e. those without perfumes or dyes. To make insecticidal soap, simply mix the following horticultural soap recipe ingredients thoroughly: Combine one cup of oil, any variety, such as vegetable, peanut, corn, soybean, etc. with one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid or other “pure” soap.  Be sure to avoid any dish washing liquids which contain degreaser, bleach, or those that are for an automatic dishwasher. Mix two teaspoons of this “soap” mixture to every cup of warm water and put into a spray bottle. Mix only what is needed for a one-day application.
 
Horticultural sprays can also be made using a natural soap product without synthetic additives or perfumes, which can be found in local natural food stores. Combine one heavy tablespoon of liquid soap to one quart of warm water. Tap water is okay to use, but if you have hard water you may want to substitute bottled water to avoid any soap scum buildup on foliage. To either of these soapy concoctions, a teaspoon of ground red pepper or garlic may be added to further repel chewing insects. Also, a teaspoon of cider vinegar may be added to assist in the removal of powdery mildew. Bar soap may also be used in a pinch by placing into a gallon of water and leaving to sit overnight. Remove the bar and shake well before use. There are few limitations to horticultural soaps. Just be sure to thoroughly wet the insects, and be aware that effectiveness may be limited if the soap solution dries or washes away. Phytotoxic may occur if applied during hot days, so avoid spraying if temperatures are over 90 F. (32 C.).
 
BEFORE USING ANY HOMEMADE MIX: It should be noted that anytime you use a home mix, you should always test it out on a small portion of the plant first to make sure that it will not harm the plant. Also, avoid using any bleach-based soaps or detergents on plants since this can be harmful to them. In addition, it is important that a home mixture never be applied to any plant on a hot or brightly sunny day, as this will quickly lead to burning of the plant and its ultimate demise.
It is important to observe your garden on a daily basis.
 


THE NAME GAME 


by Darren Sheriff MG 2007
 
The Name Game
In order to get the plant that you are looking for at any Garden Center, you ask for it, right? What if you asked for a specific plant and they came back with something not even close to what you were asking for? This is the problem with common names of plants.
Here's an example:
You walk into a nursery in the South and ask for a "Confederate Rose", you are probably looking for a Hibiscus, right? Looks something like this.
 

What if they came back with something that looked like this?


Either one would be theoretically correct. You used the common name, 'Confederate Rose" The first one, the one you were probably looking for, is Hibiscus mutabilis. The other one is Agave parrasana. Two completely different names for two completely different plants. This is the problem with common names. They are usually easy to remember but two different people might be talking about two different plants, especially if they were raised in different parts of the Country or World!
When I was working on becoming a Certified Professional Nurseryman, I had to learn hundreds of botanical names. It has served me well, I don't usually have the problem like I mentioned above.

I know what you are saying, all those Latin terms, it is way too hard. Believe it or not, you probably use the botanical name for many of the plants you now grow. How many of you grow, Magnolia? That is the botanical name. Don't believe me, Look up any of these:
 
  • Magnolia delavayi
  • Magnolia denudata
  • Magnolia fraseri
  • Magnolia globosa
  • Magnolia grandiflora

That's just a small list of the Magnolias.

How about Camellia? Nandina, Begonia, Bougainvillea, Phlox?

Even when we are discussing my beloved Citrus. Citrus is the botanical name:
  • Citrus sinensis (Sweet Orange)
  • Citrus paradisi (Grapefruit)

The list goes on and on. Now, I admit, MOST of the plant names we do not use on an everyday basis.
Learning them can be fun though. Sometimes they will give you an idea of where they come from. Camellia japonica for example. Kind of sounds like Japan, right? That is where they originated from. How about Pinus canariensis? This is the Canary Island Pine.

Botanical names do not have to be hard if you don't want them to be.  Some will even be funny and tell you something about who discovered them. Discocactus horstii.... It was named after the Brazilian collector Leopoldo Horst. I don't know if he enjoyed Disco music or not, but it is a "Far Out Cactus".
 


I am not going to try and get Scientific on you if you want to learn more about WHY plants have two names, check out this website:    http://tomclothier.hort.net/page36.html
He has done a very good job explaining it.

For now, I encourage to look up some of your favorite plants and learn their botanical name. Then, maybe next time you are chatting with somebody and they want to know "How is your Fig doing?" You can say, "Oh, my Ficus carica is doing well, Thank You!" Unless they meant your houseplant the Rubber Tree, then it is your Ficus elastica! See the fun you can have!?
Happy Growing!

EVOLVING  IN THE LOWCOUNTRY


by Patricia Hawthorne MG 2016
 

I am a recent transplant to South Carolina from Seattle, Washington. One would think, going on my fourth year here, I would have figured things out in gardening. I haven’t.

One of the biggest difficulties I’ve encountered is remembering to water. I will remind you, back in Seattle, we did not worry about watering. It rained practically every day. Here to help with watering, I installed a Rain Bird water irrigation system in my back yard. It is in the raised planting area that runs alongside the fence. The irrigation system became a problem very quickly because I did not realize that the “run off” collects in the “drainage ditch” causing a moist area in front of my bed. I found I was breeding “misquotes”. An expensive mistake to learn from. I have turned off my watering system.


Raised bed in the backyard. 

Figuring out how to grow plants in the soil here was another obstacle I encountered.  I still remember the first time I tried planting something in South Carolina. I dug a hole to plant a Nile Lily. (My husband dug the hole because I couldn’t break through the clay and rocks.) I filled up the hole with water and waited for it to drain. I waited a long time and it still didn’t drain. My husband looked at me and said, now what? I told him I didn’t know. Back home, you dig a hole, add water, and it drains. I didn’t know what to do about the drainage problem so I just proceeded with my original plan with minor changes. I had him dig the hole wider and deeper. I amended the soil with peat moss, mushroom compost, and chicken manure. (This time I decided not to fill the hole with water, I prayed instead.) I planted my Nile Lilies, all seven of them, and they have flourished. After my Master Gardening classes I now know, I should have taken a soil sample and let the experts tell me what my soil needed. Anyway, this method worked so since then, I have planted a lot of plants. I dig a hole, deeper and wider, amend the soil heavily, and plop a plant in. If I remember to water regularly, they grow.


First planting in SC - Nile Lilies Aganpanthus

Another difficulty is the pests here. I didn’t know what a Japanese Beetle was until I moved here. Since the introduction, I do put grub killer down on the lawn however, if the neighbors in the surrounding areas don’t do this, it really doesn’t help. I do put out those bags that collect Japanese Beetles. I also tried hand picking the beetles and drowning them in a cup of water…but there are too many and I do find it gross, as well as sad (the killing). So anyway, I decided to get rid of their “food source” so I dug up my David Austin roses. Then the beetles found the crepe myrtles. I didn’t want to dig those up because in fifteen years I will finally have shade (which is very important in South Carolina, not so much in Seattle). So I decided to plant morning glories to attract the Japanese Beetles so they munch on the morning glory leaves instead of deploying all their attention on the crepe myrtles. I did not understand the repercussions of that decision; every year since, I am pulling up morning glory starts.



Even with all the difficulties I’ve encountered growing plants in South Carolina, I am enjoying my garden. I have found periwinkles are able to give me the colorful flowers I crave. They are drought tolerant and pest resistant. I am finding a fondness for succulents! They like the drought. However, even with those little jewels, I have put myself on a gardening plan of improvement.
 

I joined clubs to learn more about gardening in the southeast. I joined the Charleston Horticulture Society. I belong to the Native Plant Society, and for the last two years, the Coastal Carolina Orchid Society.  I take classes, attend meetings, and visit the plant sales. I have found that I gain an enormous amount of quality information from talking with other gardeners, club members.


Succulent basket

I am gradually evolving into a southeastern gardener. Now I grow many native plants, not so much of the ornamental annuals like I did back home. I take a long siesta during the hot summer months, and only venture out in the late evenings or early mornings. Deet has become my perfume of choice.  Gardening chores are put aside until the cool days of fall appear.
I expect, I have more to learn and many more mistakes to make but I am determined to become a southwestern gardener.


Nile Lillies Agapanthus 

CATERPILLARS IN MY GARDEN  


by Patti Bagg MG 2014
 


This past summer I noticed two unusual species of caterpillars in my garden. I wanted to share this information with my MG colleagues. A few weeks ago, I observed the strangest looking worm that I had ever seen, crawling on my Pentas. It had big eyes on its head and along the length of its body, and a black horn at the tip of its back.
 


Research revealed that it was the Elephant Hawk Moth larva (Deilephila elpenor). Apparently the name is derived from its appearance as an elephant’s trunk. The dark circular markings or ‘eyespots‘ along the side of the body have evolved to resemble the eyes of a predator to deter attacks from birds that feed on insects. When it feels threatened, it widens the anterior part of its body. This defensive posture emphasizes the eye spots, making it more conspicuous. The larva will overwinter as a pupa, hidden in low vegeta0on in the soil. Like the Ugly Duckling, the nocturnal moth (which feeds on flowers that open or produce nectar at night-time) turns out to be strikingly attractive!
 


The second unusual caterpillars I noticed over the summer were colorful, hairy worms on my 30-year-old azaleas. This was the first time my azaleas had ever been attacked by caterpillars.  Research indicated that they were the Red – Headed Azalea Caterpillars (Datana major) which feed almost exclusively on azaleas, mostly in August/September.
 


They tend to cluster together in a spectacular mass (see below) and then defoliate the azalea plant. It appears that severe destruction can occur before the caterpillars are detected, as happened in my case!
 


The adult moth is light brown with a 1 3/4“ wing span.
 

The caterpillars are harmless to humans and can be removed by hand (which I did). I also removed all destroyed plant material. Treating the caterpillars with Bt may be helpful when the larvae are small. Larger caterpillars may need a more toxic pesticide for control such as Sevin or Cyfluthrin. (HGIC source). Fortunately, my azaleas seemed to have recovered from this onslaught with handpicking alone. I will certainly be on the lookout for these destructive creatures from late summer into early fall next year.


Submissions for the next Taproot Magazine!


The magazine is an opportunity for Master Gardeners

to write horticultural/gardening articles or share photographs with one

another.  Here are some ideas you might want to think about: gardening

passions, a favorite plant, something new you have learned recently and would

like to share, an interesting gardening question from the MG office, problems with

bugs and diseases, or photographs from your garden or a garden outing.

This is also an opportunity for you to share yours or others mistakes and/or

inexperience - Your Learning Curve!  

ALL IDEAS ARE WELCOME.
 

Please contact Robyn Bradley at 843-693-8719 or tcmgataproot@gmail.com with your

questions or thoughts.  The 
deadline for submissions to the next Quarterly is 

January 25th, 2018.


The Taproot is published quarterly by the Tri-County Clemson Extension Service and its Master Gardener program including Charleston, Berkeley and Dorchester Counties. 


The Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race,color, sex, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, or marital or family status, and a equal opportunity employer. Clemson University cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture, South Carolina Counties, Extension Service, Clemson, S.C.
Issued in Furtherance of Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914



Copyright © 2017 Clemson Extension, All rights reserved.


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