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Grapes + Fire = Hooch
 

Dear Friends and family,

In the weeks since I last wrote, an enormous amount of firewood and grapes have been harvested here in Macedonia. In a future letter, I'll spend some time detailing the Macedonian firewood scene but this edition focuses largely on grapes and specifically on making brandy ("rakija").

But first, an update on training and my upcoming move to a new community. 

In a few days, the intensive three month Peace Corps training period will conclude and my trainee group will, fingers crossed, all make the rite of passage from Trainee to full fledged Peace Corps Volunteer.  Shortly thereafter, all 50 of us will fan out to communities all over the country.  My assigned location is in the Eastern region where, for the next two years, I will be working with a non-profit that advocates human rights for the Roma people. (In a review of Scott Turow's new book "Testimony", the Roma were described as "some of the least recognized victims of the Bosnian war, reviled and misunderstood by all sides, as they have been throughout history.")  I am looking forward to learning more about their lives and about what initiatives might be helpful.  

As many people have asked, yes, the language training is both intense and highly challenging. The pace is very rapid and I often struggle to be closer to the middle of my class of six. Thankfully, when I'm settled in my new site, I will begin one-on-one tutoring. Oh, I will also learn basic communication in Romane and Turkish.  No problem! Gulp!

A few more tidbits and observations:
  • On the road, there is at least one tractor for every 20 cars.  They are everywhere and they range from ancient to brand new!
  • According to Macedonian mothers, you can never eat enough "Јади, јади!" (Eat, eat!) is a frequent refrain.
  • The written form of the Macedonian language uses the Cyrillic alphabet.  Peace Corps translates to Мировен корпус (pron. Mere-o-ben Core-puze). "з" is a letter that sounds like "zee", the letter "р" is pronounced as a rolled "rrrruh" and, my favorite, "ф" is sounds like "fuh". WTф?
  • Macedonian television has some quirks:
  • Blood is depicted as being pale pink and it is visually blurred
  • Alcoholic beverages (the bottle and glasses) receive the same blurry visual obfuscation
  • For dramatic effect, facial expressions are sometimes "fluttered". That is the actor's expression is rapidly looped for a couple of seconds. 
  • Slow motion is frequently used for ordinary scenes like a person walking into a room
  • Team handball is an exciting sport and the Macedonian national team is among the best in the world. The next European export to the States?  Check out the short video clips in my "Best of Macedonia" photo album (See links below)
Notes:

Want to see more about Peace Corps Macedonia activities?  View the Facebook page here...and "like" it to stay up-to-date.  

FAQ: I'm addressing questions on a "Frequently Asked Questions" page which you may view here: tinyurl.com/PeacedoniaFAQ  If you have questions, I will answer them or I will avoid answering them in a way that will make you wish you hadn't asked.

To learn more about the Peace Corps volunteer service opportunity  see www.peacecorps.gov

Thanks for reading!

Cal

p.s. If this email was forwarded to you, you may join my email list here: tinyurl.com/PeacetopiaR1
What's up? Two of my young volunteer friends are happy to be atop the local peak and they're thrilled to be near the end of our probationary training period.


More Photos? 

I have several online albums which are open to public viewing. I add photos frequently so you can check back between letters if you'd like to see what's up:

Album Links:

 
Taking a break from language learning to celebrate a birthday, here are some of my fellow Peace Corps volunteer trainees.  Hailing from Texas, Alaska, Oregon, Colorado, Rhode Island, California and Florida, we have the map well covered!
Close up detail of handcrafted plaque. A local non-profit organization promotes woodcarving and teaches new carvers.  See photos of more beautiful work: Instagram

Rakija (Macedonian Brandy)

If you watched the video in my last letter, you got a little glimpse of the widespread practice of making rakija at home.  Now you'll get a much more detailed picture of this fascinating tradition.

Rakija (pronounced "Rack-ee-ya") is a potent alcoholic beverage made from a variety of fruits including grapes. (For more details see
Wikipedia here) Shorthand, think of it as it is often referred to here, that is, as alcohol.  Grapes here in the south-central region of Macedonia are highly appreciated for their eating and winemaking qualities.  In addition, much of each year's harvest is used to make rakija at home.  While I have no reliable statistics, I can tell you anecdotally that most every home has a number of 55-gallon steel drums parked around their yards front, back, sides wherever they'll fit.

So here are the Rakija making steps (short version):

  • Put a slurry of grapes into 55-gallon drums, ferment for 3-4 weeks
  • Pour slurry into wood-fired outdoor still and distill for 2-3 hours.
  • Collect 4 gallons of distilled spirits (50-60% alcohol) in large container.
  • Enjoy rakija (imagine drinking cold fire!)
See the process: See my short video: "Grapes + Fire = Hooch" below.

A good read "Balkan Moonshine"
This furry fellow was shy but he stood still long enough for me to capture his noble profile.  It is not uncommon to see horse or donkey-drawn wagons in Macedonia, even in the larger cities.
In Macedonia, persimmons are called "јапонски јаболка" (pronounced Japonica yabolka) which translates to Japanese apples.  Right now, there are innumerable trees bearing millions of these bright orange orbs.  My favorite way to eat them is to slice the top off and spoon out the sweet flesh. Is there another fruit that ripens so late in the fall when the leaves have already fallen?
Got cabbage?
Harvest time! Yes, that's a Mercedes in the driveway, is cabbage farming lucrative? 
Cabbage is cored, salted and fermented in barrels to produce a sauerkraut-like dish.
Green squash for sale in a residential driveway. A price of 20 Macedonian denari per kilo translates to $.18/pound.  Most food here is inexpensive compared to the U.S.
Even in late fall, many home gardens are brilliant with colorful flowers. A hard freeze is coming soon, I hope these beauties are as hearty as the Macedonian people!
PEACE CORPS DISCLAIMER: The content of this communication is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Government, the Peace Corps, or the government of the Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia.
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