This Month's Bourbon Zeppelin Feature Article
A Look at....

The Role of Kentucky's Water on Bourbon
by Andrew Wiehebrink
Kentucky limestone filtered water…necessity or icing on the cake?
Everybody has heard at one point or another that Kentucky’s water is one of the reasons, if not THE reason, that Kentucky makes the best bourbon in the world. A good portion of the state sits on a limestone shelf and being so, the claim usually goes something like this…water is trickled through this limestone, filtering out unwanted substances and lending some favorable ones. More specifically, removing iron and adding minerals like calcium and magnesium.
Well, that sounds great, but what does a lack of iron and the addition of calcium and magnesium really do for the whiskey making process? The answer varies depending on whom you ask. If you do a little research I think you will find that everyone agrees if there is iron in the water supply, the bourbon will appear black. Dark whiskey is usually a sign of age and therefore, quality. However, a bottle of whiskey that has the appearance of motor oil would probably turn most customers away. So no iron is good, I agree.
The addition of calcium and magnesium is a little trickier to examine. Limestone is basically calcium carbonate but depending on the limestone, also contains other minerals, one of which being magnesium in one form or another. The addition of calcium and magnesium by themselves will have a direct effect on the pH level of the water. They both lower the pH level. Magnesium doesn’t have as great an influence but both do the same thing. A more acidic mash will have a positive influence on the fermentation process so that is a good thing. In addition, magnesium is a yeast nutrient so if there is a concentration of magnesium in the water, yeast cells care happier.
However, the argument can be made that when water gets filtered through limestone it does not pick up calcium and magnesium in their elemental forms but rather in the form of calcium carbonate for example. Calcium carbonate is a buffer. So one could make the argument that limestone water doesn’t lower the pH but controls the pH and that could be a good thing as well. This debate makes for some interesting reading and in an effort not to deny you of that, I will let you make the decision which theory is more plausible or more beneficial.
Could it be both?
Ok so we have examined some benefits of limestone filtered water but the question we set out to answer remains unanswered. Is Kentucky water necessary to make good bourbon? If Kentucky happened to be the only state with hard water, I would say there might be some merit to that. However, Kentucky is not the only state in the union with naturally hard water. The following map provided by the USGS details a map of the U.S. as it pertains to water hardness.

As you can see, Kentucky water is special in a certain regard but it is not the only state with hard water. In fact, looking at the map you will notice that about 85% of the country has what the USGS considers to be hard water. Some states like Texas have water that has very high concentrations of calcium carbonate; more so than in Kentucky. Kentucky water is special without a doubt but it is definitely not unique.
Does that mean that distilleries that do not have access to hard water cannot make a decent bourbon or whiskey? I don’t think so. Some distilleries that make great whiskey run their water supply through treatment systems which completely takes water out of the equation all together. In addition, grain based mashes have calcium in them to begin with so if you are making whiskey, there should be plenty in the mash already.
Limestone water is a benefit to the process in more ways than one. I think it is up to the distiller or drinker to decide how much of a benefit it truly is. Being from Kentucky, I have great pride in Kentucky bourbon and as much as I enjoy drinking whiskey from other states, deep down I sometimes wish that it was all about Kentucky and that we were the only ones that could make great bourbon. But I know that is not the case.
Kentucky produces truly great bourbon but I attribute that to some other things. First of all, we have been making bourbon for a long time and with just about anything in life, the more you do it, the better you get. More importantly, I believe Kentucky has the ideal climate for making bourbon. Hot summers, cold winters, humidity, good soil for growing bourbon’s majority ingredient, etc.
One thing is for sure, bourbon is full of great history and a lot of brands have great stories behind them, some true and some false. It is those stories that first got me interested in drinking bourbon and to this day I still enjoy reading the bottles. Kentucky limestone water is definitely part of that history as well. Whether it is true or not really isn’t the point. Instead of asking, “Is that story true?” Instead ask, “Is that story good?” For me, I will always cling to the hope that there is something magical in Kentucky water that we have yet to test for or have yet to discover.
Cheers my Friends!
|
|
In this issue...
Are you a bourbon fan?
Of course you are! What we have assembled this month is nothing short of amazing. This issue is packed with information, stories, announcements... basically, everything bourbon. It's way cool if I must say so myself.
We've got two new columns this month. John Edwards has started a Bourbon Zeppelin Hall of Fame. That's right, each month he's recognizing on person who has made an amazing contribution to the world of bourbon and putting that individual in our very own hall of fame. I love this concept!
We've also got another one I'm going to give a shot to thanks to some good work by Associate Editor Hasse Berg in finding them. Zac and LeAnne Smith have started something they call the Whisk(e)y Warrior Award. Basically, it's recognition to those who contribute to the world of whiskey, but are outside of it. It could be bloggers, bartenders, individuals with a large social media presence that support the whiskey industry, etc. It's a fun concept and we're going to try out partnering with them to announce their monthly winner. This one rests firmly in the hands of the readers. If you love it... let's keep them in Zeppelin. I will say their first contribution is solid which includes an overview of the award and an excellent first recipient.
As always, we get help from readers and fans. This issue is no exception. My buddy Sofia Smith talks about her favorite bottle right now and BZ reader Mike Bonin tells us what historical figure he would share a dram with.
As always, I hope you enjoy reading BZ as much as we did writing it... for you!
Editor-in-Chief & Kentucky Colonel
|
|
|
|
|
Reviews of Unique Bourbon Offerings by Steve and Four Bourbon Zeppelin Team Members
This month we take a look at:
Woodford Reserve
Double Oaked
A cornerstone of Bourbon Zeppelin are the Steve + 4 Reviews. In this regular feature, Steve and four of the B.Z. team members will rate and score a bourbon. Knowing that there is something intrinsically wrong with any scoring system, BZ attempts to smooth out the human factor in three ways:
1). Right out of the gate, having five evaluators automatically adds legitimacy to this type of system which is typically completed by one person.
2). Steve + 4 helps remove personal bias by tossing the top and bottom scores, leaving only the three scores in the middle as the ones that count.
3). The three scores that are left are then averaged giving us the final score for the monthly selection.
All final scores are tallied and kept at the bottom of BZ allowing us to have a growing comparative database.
Let's see how this month's selection fared:
Review #1
Jess Rubin - 79.0
Notes:
Aroma - Fruity notes with oak undertones.
Taste - Oak with liquid caramel and baking spices. Apple pie like in flavor. Smooth drinking with no burn.
Final Evaluation - This one is an enjoyable pour but doesn't quite live up to the $55 price tag.
Reviewer #2
Corey Chandler - 75.0
Notes:
Aroma - This was pleasant with great notes of fruit and chocolate.
Taste - Again, lots of fall fruit and spice. Apple, hazelnut, black cherry that play together nicely.
Final Evaluation - I was surprised with this one. I have passed it on the shelf many times, but this will have a home on my bar soon. Nose and palate were much more complex than other available bourbon in this price range. The balanced finish was probably the most surprising part for me, lingering far longer than I expected and leaving you with tons of apple spice!
Continued in next column.
|
|
|
|
(Continued)
Review #3
Aaron Cave - 83.0
Notes:
Aroma - Nice hints of butterscotch, toffee, brown sugar, apricots, cloves, and toasted oak.
Taste - Vanilla, brown sugar, toffee, cinnamon, raisins, hazelnuts, and wood tannins.
Final Evaluation - Good pour, but the price is a little high for what you get.
-----------------------------------
Tossed Reviews
High
Steve Akley - 83.5
Notes:
Aroma - Caramel and apples... so, caramel apple?
Taste - The double oak is great. It's got a solid caramel taste. Hint of cinnamon.
Final Evaluation - I do like this one, but for $30 less the offering from Beam is a better choice.
Low
Kimberly Burns - 72.0
Notes
Aroma - On the first pass, this bourbon didn’t hit me with any kind of alcohol punch; it was all wood straight up front. After nosing a bit more, it smelled earthy and woody and like a bit like fresh baked cake. Coffee, tobacco, woodshop, and vanilla.
Taste - I was fearing an over-oaked toothpick-y flavor, but was very pleasantly surprised. The flavor was rich – smoky warmth, light caramel sweetness, notes of plum and rye-like spice. What I would consider a medium finish both in length and in heat when sipped neat.
(Bonus: it was a great compliment to the apple tart that I probably shouldn’t have eaten, but did anyway.)
Final Evaluation - In my mind, this bourbon had a few strikes going in (Woodford Reserve, oak x2…). I had some preconceived notions about how it would taste, and how I’d definitely not like it, but it turns out I was wrong. This one took me completely by surprise, and I am looking forward to adding one to my bunker. Perhaps a smidge pricey, but this was a really tasty bourbon, and I want more of it.
Combined Score
The final score for this one is...
79.50
Who doesn't love a little trivia about their favorite distilled spirit?
What is the suggested retail price of the Old Rip Van Winkle 25-year-old that is being sold for the first time ever this month?
The answer is below at the bottom of this issue (under Hasse's column)
|
|
|
|
News About Bourbon the B.Z. Team has Heard
Julian Van Winkle Enters Another HOF

Whisky Magazine honored Julian Van Winkle III with its highest accolade Tuesday, inducting him into its Hall of Fame. Van Winkle was recognized at the 2017 Whisky Magazine Awards America presentation held in New York on Feb. 28.“This is a great honor,” Van Winkle said. “World class whiskey is a tradition to be taken seriously and I’m very proud to be a part of. I feel extremely honored and grateful to receive this recognition.”
Whisky Magazine’s Hall of Fame honors those who have made a lasting contribution to whisky. With the renown and highly sought after Van Winkle line of bourbons, Julian’s mark on the industry is one that already spans generations.
The Bourbon Virgin Tries...
Woodford Reserve
Classic Malt
(90.4 proof)
Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, gather around!
The Bourbon Virgin kind of enjoyed this one! Before I even tried it, I knew it would be pretty good. The light, golden color of the liquor made me feel like I found a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow; th smell penetrated every single hair on my body making them stand at attention like a drill sergeant just yelled at them, but was inviting; and how could I not like something that has the word ‘malt’ in it?
Oh man, can you imagine having this mixed in with a vanilla malt?! My life would have a whole new meaning!
Overall, I would say this one gets one and a half thumbs up from me (figure that one out, lol). :)
|
|
|
|
|
|