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When a Backpacker Is a Slackpacker  

By Jim DuFresne

I have a friend who is an avid backpacker but recently confided to me ­- sheepishly I might add - that as he gets older he’s become more of a “slackpacker” than a backpacker.

A slackpacker???

He still loves hiking the great long-distance trails of Michigan, or at least parts of them, but at night he wants a soft bed, a hot shower and a cold beer. A slackpacker.

I know where’s he’s coming from. Don’t get me wrong, backpacking is great. For the weight of a pack, you can spend the most enjoyable nights away from everything; roads, social media, demands from work (or significant other), worries about how you’re going to pay for your kid’s college. You’re in a scenic location with everything you need; a simplified lifestyle that’s the perfect tonic for your hectic life at home.

But sometimes after a 10-mile trek all you really want is a soft bed, a hot shower and a cold beer.

Slackpacking allows you to carry much lighter loads; skip the tent, the Jetboil, the Therm-a-Rest, the sleeping bag and four days of Ramen noodles and instant oatmeal. You also miss the truly bad weather, at least in the morning. Wake up and if it’s raining, you hold off in a dry secure location, like a local diner with wifi, until it’s not.

But the best part is at the end of a long day on the trail, you’re looking at either where you’re staying or a vehicle that will take you where you are. Not an empty walk-in campsite or a spot in the woods, beckoning you to set up the tent quickly because it’s starting to sprinkle.

No, I don’t have any problems with slackpackers. And here are my favorite destinations for such an outing. 

Trail Guide 
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Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore: This national park features the 42-mile Lakeshore Trail, the crown jewel of the North Country Trail and in my opinion the most scenic long-distance foot path in Michigan.

But you don’t have to hike the whole thing to experience the best segment. Chapel Road off of H-58 allow you to enjoy the Chapel Basin Loop, a 10.4-mile trek that first passes Chapel Falls before reaching Lake Superior in 3 miles. The next 4.7 miles are stunning and include a stroll along Chapel beach, several rock formations (Chapel Rock, Grand Portal and Indianhead among them) and a view of the Great Lake every step of the way. You end up heading inland for the final 2.6 miles passing Mosquito Falls along the way.

There are typical Upper Peninsula family-owned motels in Munising and Grand Marais that anchor the Lakeshore Trail. I usually choose the smaller and more scenic Grand Marais because it’s home to The Dunes Saloon & Lake Superior Brewing Company, the perfect place for a slackpacker to end the day. If you do end up in Munising, there's no better pasty than a Muldoons pasty.

Isle Royale National Park: The biggest misconception about this park is you have to shoulder a pack to experience the trails. Not so. Book a room at the lodge in Rock Harbor, the eastern entry port where most Michiganders arrive at, and then do day hikes, always ending up back at the front steps of the lodge. There are several loops you can do from Rock Harbor. Stoll Trail is a beautiful, 4.2-mile trek to Scotville Point, the most popular loop is a 9.5-mile combination of Rock Harbor Trail and Tobin Harbor Trail to the scenic views from Mount Franklin.

But the best adventure for those not willing to shoulder a backpack is to take the concessioner tour boat to the Lookout Louis trailhead and then hike back to the lodge. This 11.5-mile trek includes one of the most scenic and underused sections of the Greenstone Ridge Trail, Mount Franklin, and the watery views enjoyed from the Rock Harbor Trail.

For the complete guidebook to the park, Isle Royale National Park: Foot Trails and Water Routes, go to the MichiganTrailMaps.com eshop.

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park: Michigan’s largest state park offers 90 miles of foot paths including some lengthy loops that can be easily accomplished in a day with a light load. My favorite is the 14.2-mile loop that begins with Government Peak Trail and ends with the exceptionally scenic Escarpment Trail at the end of the day when the colors from an approaching sunset are at their best. The next day come back and do the other half of the Escarpment ridge with a 12.1-mile loop that includes part of the Big Carp River Trail, Correction Line Trail and North Mirror Lake Trail.

Lodging is available in nearby Silver City but since this is the U.P., it's only natural to want to stay in a cabin at a place like Mountain View Lodges.

Pigeon River Country State Forest: This 105,049-acre state forest occupies the high central plateau of the Lower Peninsula 20 miles north of Gaylord. It’s covered with trails including the Shingle Mill Pathway, a 10- or 11-mile loop that skirts the Pigeon River, several inlands lakes and a highpoint that gives way to the ruggedness of this amazing land of the elk. For something longer, head to the Jordan River Pathway, a 19-mile loop that descends into a forested valley split in the middle by a cold-water trout stream.

At night retreat to Gaylord, which offers a wide range of lodging possibilities and places to refuel, including two micro-brews; Snowbelt Brewery Company and Big Buck Brewery, to quench your thirst. For a perch dinner or a hand-tossed pizza with a view of Lake Michaywe', go to Inn the Woods at Michaywe' Resort. For breakfast it’s hard to pass up Diana’s Delights in downtown Gaylord.

Wilderness State Park: This 10,500-acre unit, the largest state park in the Lower Peninsula, contains more than 26 miles of shoreline, a dedicated natural area and a 38-mile network of trails featuring backcountry campsites and walk-in cabins that can be rented.

But slackpackers don’t have to overnight. They can undertake a variety of long loops – such as the 13-mile O'Neal Lake Trail Loop or the 8.3-mile Nebo Trail-Swamp Line Loop to name but two ­– and then retreat to Petoskey or Harbor Springs for the evening.  

Lodging ranges from historic hotels like Stafford's Perry Hotel in downtown Petoskey to the conveniently located Birchwood Inn passed on M-119 on the way to the state park. The dining scene is just as extensive, ranging from juicy burgers at Mitchell Street Pub & Café to something more upscale at City Park Grill like apple wood-grilled flank steak that’s been marinated in soy sauce, honey, fresh garlic and rosemary.

As all slackpackers know, either one beats Ramen noodles for dinner. 

Facilities 

For more information on accommodations at Rock Harbor or other concessioner services available (yes, they do sell cold beer) contact Rock Harbor Lodge (906- 337-4993). For the Lakeshore Trail there is Sunset Motel in Munising and North Shore Lodge in Grand Marais.

For the Porkies lodging is available in nearby Silver City and includes an AmericInn Lodge and Mountain View Lodges. For lodging in Gaylord or Petoskey go to Gaylord Tourism Bureau or Petoskey Area Visitors Bureau for a complete list.

Getting There 

To reach Isle Royale from Michigan jump on the Ranger III in Houghton or the  Isle Royale Queen IV from Copper Harbor. For transportation along the Lakeshore Trail in Pictured Rocks there's Trailspotters, a van service that will drop you off along the trail.

Additional Information 

Head to the web for more information on Isle Royale National Park, Pictured Rocks, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Pigeon River Country State Forest and Wilderness State Park.