This Month's Bourbon Zeppelin Feature Article
A Look at....

THE KENTUCKY BOURBON SCENE
by Andrew Wiehebrink
Preface
So I thought it would be interesting if I had the chance to give readers a glimpse into the bourbon scene in and around Louisville, Kentucky and testify so to speak about how this bourbon bubble we are all living in has literally came through and reshaped this town. It is mind blowing when you get to see firsthand how the nation’s new obsession with a distilled spirit can transform things in such a short period of time. Every big movement has an epicenter. It was only natural that the bourbon movement started right here as it has in times past. It wasn’t that long ago that some of the big distillers really didn’t know what the future held for them. Lighter spirts were on the rise and bourbon was considered too old fashioned for a younger and more progressive population.
The big guys were producing everything that everyone needed and there just wasn’t enough interest to spark a craft movement. Prohibition, as it had in other parts of the country, had shut down the distilling industry in Louisville during the 1920s. Those companies who survived would soon face a world war that would send ripples through the American distilled spirits industry in a very negative way. The need for industrial alcohol and penicillin during the war made it possible for imports to take over and push bourbon off the shelves. Although bourbon experienced a decent resurgence in the 50s and 60s (in the late 60s there were 7+million barrels in aging) there was a massive fallout ahead and there would be a decline in sales that continued through the following years.
It wasn’t until the late 1980s that the bourbon world started to gain a little notoriety again. I would say that it could be attributed to pioneers in the industry like Booker Noe with his small batch collection or Elmer Lee and his single barrel concept. Whatever it was, bourbon was now being marketed as a drink that was connoisseur worthy. Suddenly, people started caring about what made bourbon taste the way it did or why one barrel could differ from the other if they aged on the same rick, same floor, same warehouse. I think as soon as that happened, bourbon was destined for a resurgence like it had never seen before. It took some time to kick in but I believe throughout the next 15 years, an interest and fascination began to quietly perpetuate through a small crowd of loyal customers.
It was silently building.
Even though exciting things were happening, the bottles still were not being sold off the shelf. The new category of super premium bourbon was hailed by the critics and enthusiasts alike but the non-bourbon drinkers really didn’t care. The early to mid 2000’s experienced 2% growth which is slow to say the least. Even as late as 2007, Pappy Van Winkle sat on store shelves collecting dust. Fast forward a few years and “my oh my how times have changed!”
A Look into the Kentucky Bourbon Scene
The Kentucky bourbon scene right now is a little crazy to say the least. It is a very exciting time to be part of the industry and of course it is just plain awesome to call Kentucky home. I was born and raised in Louisville, Kentucky, but now live about 25 miles outside of downtown Louisville. For most of my life the distilling industry in Louisville had been pretty calm. There were a couple big guys (Brown Forman and Stitzel-Weller) still cooking when I was growing up but nothing like the city had been used to in the early years. I can remember walking outside my grandparent’s house when I was younger and getting a big wiff of what they used to tell me was the local bread factory. In reality what I was nosing was mash the boys down the street were brewing up for their next run. I used to miss that smell. Absent from life until bourbon made its glorious return and distilleries started popping up everywhere in town. Heck…Kentucky Artisan Distillery, home to Jefferson’s and Whiskey Row brands, moved in three miles from my house. Before my time, Louisville was once the center of the industry and some considered it to be the distilling capital of the country.
Sadly, Prohibition put a screeching halt to that. The famous portion of Main Street that sits around what is now the 2nd Street Bridge was once called Whiskey Row. And rightfully so… This now historic section of Louisville was home to numerous rectifiers, distillers, and housed the sales offices for companies in the distilling industry. I think around 50 or so companies called this little strip of whiskey paradise home. Other major distilling operations were dotted throughout the city and the state. I would venture to guess if you could travel back to that time period, you would probably find it an exciting time to call yourself a bourbon fan. In the 1800s, I believe Kentucky was home to about 2000 distillers and Jefferson County was home to 77 distilleries. But the 1920s weren’t good and sadly the buildings were repurposed or left to decay and eventually crumble.
If you take a look at that portion of main street today, what you will see is how the resurgence of whiskey is currently reviving an entire city block to its former prominent position in the distilling industry. The portion of main street aforementioned is now once again being recognized by its former name, Whiskey Row. And, once again it will become the home of some major distilling operations, bars, restaurants, lofts, and office space. Decay and rubble no more. The outdated and vacant buildings are being renovated in an effort to return the area to a modern version of its formal self. The front façade of the entire block has basically been kept intact thanks to a major engineering endeavor that will keep the historical feel of the street alive. However, behind the very old brick everything will be entirely new. Brown Forman is well underway on constructing a new Old Forester Distillery and visitor center here. Michter’s also joined in and purchased a portion of the historic strip. Angel’s Envy has just recently completed the construction of its new distillery down the road. Rabbit Hole is currently under construction along with a few more I haven’t listed.
Fueling the growth around here as well as around the country is an enthusiasm for bourbon I am pretty certain we haven’t seen in quite some time, if ever. So much so that ironically, the place that makes 95% of the world’s supply of bourbon is one of the worst places to find those sought after bottles. A few weeks ago, I was in Kansas and lining the shelf at the local liquor store were bottles upon bottles of Weller 107, Stagg Jr., Michter’s rarities, and even some Black Maple Hill. Similarly, I was in New York late last year and while walking down the street I peeked into a liquor store and right before me were some Pappy offerings, some rare Fitzgerald, Black Maple Hill, BTAC, and actually quite a few other offerings I have never seen before.
Here in Kentucky, we NEVER see a shelf tag for any of these items. Price was a point of distinction as well. For example, a 107 bottle, if you can find it in Kentucky will run you between $50-$60. In Kansas, $23. Long story short, Kentucky is just not a good place to hunt, at all. But it wasn’t always that way. The bartenders at my usual watering hole spin yarn about days not long ago when they used to make egg nog with George T. Stagg for the holidays. What a great time that was. I often find myself wondering if it will ever go back to that again. I think we have changed things for good but we will see. Anyways…
I hope everybody gets to come and experience what we have going on here in Kentucky at some point. Having said that, if you do plan on coming to visit the Bourbon Trail, don’t expect to find the liquor store shelves stocked with every bottle you need to complete your BTAC collection. Liquor stores hold lotteries when Pappy and BTAC come in. Rare bottle arrivals are always announced via an email chain the night before and people will literally camp out in the freezing cold all night just to get a chance at one of the more sought after whiskies. Instead, try visiting the distilleries and grabbing up some of the “gift shop only” bottles. I promise your visit will be a lot more enjoyable and you will have greater success. A lot of the times you might even come across a rare bottle or two sitting on a shelf at the gift shop.
I don’t consider myself to be a real bourbon hunter. I know what is good and what is rare and if I happen to walk in and get lucky, I will pick up a few bottles. Be that as it may, I want those rare bottles just as much as the next guy and the long lines, camp outs, lotteries, and empty store shelves can be frustrating from time to time. However, it is a frustration that I welcome with open arms. The enthusiasm here is the root cause for empty shelves but that same enthusiasm is making this city such a haven for bourbon nerds. It has given rise to countless bourbon themed bars, restaurants, stores, and experiences around the city. And perhaps more importantly it has given people jobs, transformed the city landscape, and damn sure made Louisville a much more interesting place to live.
All the new distilleries are top notch (I think we have 6 or 7 new distilleries including ones that are under construction) and the smell of mash is becoming ever more prevalent. Restaurants and bars with dedicated bourbon themes have popped up all over the place. And all of the private barrel selection programs around town are nothing short of impressive and an absolute joy to experience. Perhaps the best thing about the bourbon scene here is it seems like everyone is involved. When the bourbon boom hit, everyone gravitated towards it and just went head first. I love talking to new folks about bourbon and that is just easy to do because everyone is drinking it. I would venture to say that the majority of said people even have a legitimate fascination for the brown spirit. Attention single folks, asking that guy or girl next to you at the bar what kind of bourbon they are drinking is probably the single greatest and most easily utilized ice breaker there is.
With my job, I am lucky enough in that I get the opportunity to travel around the country and talk to all sorts of people that make up this “bourbon universe” we are all part of. I talk to industry professionals and die-hard enthusiasts alike. I can definitely say that the passion you see here in Kentucky is popping up all over the country. Centered around these small craft distilleries grows a new generation of spirit enthusiasts that are just beginning to get their feet wet while discovering everything it has to offer. We all have a part to play in “spreading the love”. Bourbon enthusiasts like ourselves are one reason for its success and that should be a point of pride for all of us. I find it very gratifying when I can introduce someone to a new bottle or perhaps even introduce someone to bourbon itself. Whether it be by Instagram, by word of mouth, or by accident. I am always happy to do my part.
Postface
So I hope this article was at least a little bit enlightening as to the effect such a movement can have. So much so for me that recently I have dropped my career as an engineer and dove head first into the spirts industry. The bourbon boom has made it possible for people like me to do that. With the creation of all these new jobs, there is an ever increasing need for people with a passion for bourbon.
I am still not exactly sure why the boom hit. The rise of social media has made it very easy for people to see what has been going on here in Kentucky for centuries. Perhaps shows like Mad Men are at the center of it all. Ed Lorenz said that the flap of butterfly’s wings can cause a hurricane on the other side of the world. If you subscribe to this theory, then you would probably say there is no way of telling what caused it. To be honest, as far as we have come, I think we are just getting our feet wet. I am banking on this same growth we’ve see in Louisville and the surrounding areas to become ever more familiar in other parts of the country. I sure do miss the days when I could walk into the store and grab a bottle of Elmer T Lee or Elijah 18 for $35, but I don’t think I would go back even if I could. As I said before, I don’t think we will go back. With companies like Heaven Hill and Jim Beam building 50,000+ barrel warehouses left and right, I think it is safe to say we will ride this thing for a lot more years to come.
Cheers!
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Andrew Wiehebrink is a staff writer for Bourbon Zeppelin. Check out his regular column, The Six Point Inspection, where he provides restaurant reviews of bourbon-focused restaurants in-and-around The Bourbon Trail area of Kentucky in this issue.
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In this issue...
As I write this, I am just getting back from having spent Thanksgiving on Sanibel Island with my family. I found the shell of a lifetime in the seashell capital of the United States.... but, alas, it was home to a snail so I had to toss it back.

Tossing back a huge shell is the only thing I have to complain about as this issue is spectacular. As you just read, the versatile Andrew Wiehebrink has joined Hasse Berg and I as the only ones to have written a feature story for Bourbon Zeppelin. I love getting people more involved and Wiehebrink is a solid contributor who raises the bar of the publication with his insightful writing.
This is really cool issue in that many of our columnists like Andrea Holak, Dynamite, Hasse Berg, Chrissy Martin and Corey Chandler really got into the spirit of the holiday season in this issue.
Of course, a goal of mine is always to recruit others to jump in with the team and contribute. We've got some winners with Matthias Blau having some fun sharing the bourbon scene in Germany, Renee Howe talking about her favorite bottle of bourbon in her collection, Bill Alexander letting us know who he'd like to share a dram with and Jason Hockney Zeimet helping us expand our horizons with tequila.
Finally, we have a new team member I would like to introduce. Derek Haas will be featured each month sharing a bourbon cocktail. This will be in addition to the one Walker and I already share. This is a bourbon magazine so two cocktails per month is definitely twice the fun.
Finally, I want to give a plug for our value bourbon guy Greg Schneider. He's put out a call to send him ideas for his column and a few people responded. Greg seemed to enjoy that so if you have some ideas for him, please send them to me and I'll pass 'em along to Greg.
As always, I hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as the BZ team had putting it together for you!
Editor-in-Chief
Bourbon Zeppelin
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Reviews of Unique Bourbon Offerings by Steve and Four Bourbon Zeppelin Team Members
This month we take a look at:
Heritage Dual Barrel
A cornerstone of Bourbon Zeppelin are the Steve + 4 Reviews. In this regular feature, Steve and four of the B.Z. team members will rate and score a bourbon. Knowing that there is something intrinsically wrong with any scoring system, BZ attempts to smooth out the human factor in three ways:
1). Right out of the gate, having five evaluators automatically adds legitimacy to this type of system which is typically completed by one person.
2). Steve + 4 helps remove personal bias by tossing the top and bottom scores, leaving only the three scores in the middle as the ones that count.
3). The three scores that are left are then averaged giving us the final score for the monthly selection.
All final scores are tallied and kept at the bottom of BZ allowing us to have a growing comparative database.
Let's see how this month's selection fared:
Steve Akley - 73.5
Notes:
Aroma - Vanilla, cherry (a first on the nose for me) and a sweetness that I'm going to call Dubble Bubble
Taste - Surprisingly light on the wood considering it's dual barrel. The taste of those cherries witnessed in the nose is there. Mild burn with the finish.
Final Evaluation - For a low price craft offering I think this one is worth a look.
Reviewer #2
Seth Brown - 77.0
Notes:
Aroma - Sweet with loads of vanilla and cedar with light oak.
Taste - Buttery caramel, light black pepper and banana.
Final Evaluation - I could see this whiskey being a nice summertime dram while outdoors amongst several friends. It's nothing formal and doesn't require a lot of thought or focus—allowing you to converse with others while not feeling like your cheating on your whiskey.
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(Continued)
Reviewer #3
Aaron Cave - 79.0
Notes:
Aroma - Heavy vanilla, young grain, light oak, and old leather.
Taste - Light and sweet. Very vanilla forward. Very young. Mostly alcohol, grain, vanilla, and cedar.
Final Evaluation - Overall not very balanced. It's has a little to much sweet vanilla and alcohol. There is not much of a finish short and sweet, mostly alcohol and grain.
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Tossed Reviews
High
Evan Haskill - 91.0
Notes:
Aroma - Stone fruits and honeysuckle.
Taste - Apple, herbal tea, minty with honey.
Final Evaluation - Love. At $25 I'll buy this one out. LOVE!
Low
Kimberly Burns - 68.0
Notes:
Aroma - Despite being “dual barrel,” I wasn’t able to pick up any woody scents or aromas. For me, the aroma profile was dominated by the scent of vanilla extract. Once I get past the extract-alcohol scent, I get hints of baked goods, and a non-descript sweetness. Hiding out in the background was the tiniest hint of new leather.
Taste - This bourbon had a bit of an astringent mouth feel, and the first (and most prominent) flavor was also overwhelmingly that of vanilla extract. As the alcohol flavor subsided, it eased into a bland sort of sweet breakfast cereal taste before disappearing altogether.
Final Evaluation - If this had been my introductory bourbon experience, I probably would not have given bourbon a second chance. I did not feel like there was any sort of well-defined character. It was just sort of sweet, and sort of dry, with a whisper of a finish. The unique 2nd barrel finish left me feeling like I was sipping on a bottle of McCormack’s Pure Vanilla Extract, though, and I just couldn’t like it. I might try to bake with it, though.
Combined Score
The final score for Heritage Dual Barrel Bourbon is...
76.50
Who doesn't love a little trivia about their favorite distilled spirit?
True or False?
If you tour any of the distilleries on the Bourbon Trail, you have probably heard them refer to the unaged distillate that eventually becomes bourbon as "white dog." True or False, white dog is the same thing as white lightning?
The answer is below at the bottom of this issue (under Hasse's column)
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News About Bourbon the B.Z. Team has Heard
The Kentucky Distillers' Association announced a new three-year partnership that will keep the Kentucky Bourbon Affair fantasy camp in Louisville through 2019, as well as dates for next year's event.
Kentucky Distillers' Association Eric Gregory also said Whisky Live, an international celebration of the world's finest whiskies, will return as the KBA's closing event, capping off the week-long intimate immersive dive into Kentucky's signature spirit.
Dates are June 6 through June 11, 2017. A limited amount of Golden Tickets will go on sale later this year at kybourbonaffair.com, with single tickets available afterwards. Information about Whisky Live can be found at whiskyliveusa.com.
The Bourbon Virgin Tries...
Heritage Distilling
Brown Sugar Bourbon
(60 proof)
Ooh Wee! The first swig in my mouth and it was like I was swimming in a delicious sea full of cinnamon rolls. The taste was so sweet and warm that immediately I wished I had a bigger bottle, a batch of ginger snaps, and I was sitting in front of a nice, cozy fire.
And then…
The donkey kick to the inside of my body happened. This brown sugar bourbon is sweet, but not sweet as in nice! This little bourbon spirit is not messing around! I have noticed that some of the bourbon I have sampled tastes so damn good and then the kick happens. Which in all honesty is not such a bad thing; it is a surprise each time on how it will kick me and I do love surprises! But notice, mis amigos, the kick doesn’t result in the immediate urge to yak all over – I’m certainly not an expert in the bourbon field yet, but I’m another step closer!
Two thumbs up, I’m ready for the next one Steve!

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