The Drought Years
Vintage 2016 marked the fifth straight year of drought in California. After two extremely cool, wet years in 2010/2011 the taps just turned off. Rivers ran dry, lake levels dropped, and the essential life-giving snowpack in the Sierras plummeted to historical lows. For skiers and farmers alike, it’s been tough times around here. Fortunately, we got some rain last winter and this winter is off to a great start. But the stark reality is that it will take several wet winters to restore the natural balance of this parched California landscape.
As a negociant who purchases grapes, LIOCO has been somewhat insulated from these radical shifts in the weather, and the attendant issue of erratic grape yields. Vintage 2012 was a record bumper crop, but yields have decreased every year since with 2015 offering up historic lows. Since we have our 2013 and 2014 wines in circulation at the moment we thought we would compare and contrast these two high-quality vintages; discuss the difference between our dry-farmed and irrigated vineyard sources; and share how we handle these droughty vintages in the cellar.
2013
+ An unusually hot, dry summer created thick skinned berries creating more concentration of flavor and color compared to 2012. Also more purple toned fruits than previous vintages. Cold nights offered up low pH, high TA wines.
+ Marked the second year of an early bud break due to high pressure off the coast. This trend has become the “new norm.”
2014
+ Dense and concentrated with great development of flavors. More red fruit character than 2013 as ripeness was achieved at lower sugars than in 2013.
+ Third year of drought. Balanced crop with longer hang time and deepening of flavors. Higher acidities in 2014 as compared to 2013, and the smaller berry size led to wines with tremendous dry extract (power).
Irrigated vs. Dry Farmed
+ Dry farmed vineyards less impacted by drought due to deep root system. Less reliance on surface moisture.
+ We started to see more stress in 2015 in due to prolonged drought and lowering of water table. Dry farmed vineyards began to show signs of stress towards harvest time.
+ In general dry farmed vines are less reactive in short term to heat spikes.
+ Irrigated vines may need more water in early growing season to help develop heathy canopy due to shallow root system.
+ Irrigated vines more prone to heat spikes and may need water to help keep fruit from dehydration.
Winemaking in Drought Years
+ Cluster and berry size can often be smaller leading to higher skin to juice ratios and more concentrated/tannic wines. Fermentation/Cap management is crucial to control proper extraction.
+ Adjustments may be needed to oak treatment in order to find balance with wines.
+ Drought years can often produce grapes with higher sugars. More whole cluster and longer pump-overs can help lower alcohol levels to achieve balance.
Pros of Drought
+ Smaller cluster and berry size results in greater concentration of flavors.
+ Earlier harvest dates (now August is the norm, rather than late Sept/early Oct) reduces the risk of rain during harvesting.
+ Dryer conditions result in less rot/mold in the vineyard (this is key for our coastal vineyard sources).
Cons of Drought
+ Early bud break, increasing the risk of frost damage and rain during flowering which will lead to reduced yields.
+ Less vine vigor leading to slower maturation of grapes and more uneven ripening.
+ Smaller clusters and berry size reducing overall grape yields. Less wine!
+ Earlier harvest dates which can result in picking in extremely hot days of Aug/early Sept. Cold fruit makes better wine!
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