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With over six hundred tribes listed under the Constitution of India, the country is host to the largest tribal population in the world. The diversity of tribes is astonishing; in their occupations, their ways of life, their language, their traditions and their cultural identities. Cattle herders, leather tanners, fisherfolk, pearl divers, snake charmers, snake catchers, subsistence farmers, honey gatherers, bushmeat hunters, wildlife conservationists, just to name a few, are all among India's indigenous tribal occupations.
Some of the oldest tribes in the world inhabit the Indian subcontinent, and they've found mention in our sacred texts such as Vedas texts and in our epic poems, Mahabharata and Ramayana. Ancient literature described tribal livelihoods and prowess, especially in warfare and most tribes continue to occupy similar economic niches and have passed on their skill to present-day generations. Tribal identities are strongly linked to this economic legacy, and their connect with nature is still strong. Political definitions of the word 'tribe' have clouded the identities of these people, and policies for their upliftment have not been as successful as was hoped for. Today, tribal communities inhabit the periphery of social, economic and political life in India - yet their resilience, their cultural traditions and age-old wisdom can provide valuable lessons for us all.
In this newsletter, we've focused on some of the many tribal groups across India to introduce you to the bewildering diversity of ethnic groups. While travelling through India, one can weave a tribal experience into any itinerary and perhaps, get a glimpse into the lives and labours of these extraordinary people.
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Odisha, located on the eastern coast is the state with the most tribal diversity in India, with sixty-two listed tribes. For centuries, these tribes have inhabited the densely forested Eastern Ghats hill ranges eking out a living from gathering forest produce, farming tiny patches of sloped land, breeding cattle or practising traditional crafts like bamboo-weaving and tool-making. With insufficient subsistence livelihoods, these tribes have been migrating to the nearby industrial and mining belts or to larger, urban cities. Today, the districts of Koraput, Sundergarh and Mayurbhanj host most of Odisha's tribal populations - and can be included in itineraries across central or eastern India.
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Tribal Haats
The word 'haat' means a marketplace - and has long been the economic (and social) lifeline of villages. Haats are regularly set up, every week or every month, with some special haats happening annually. Haats provide an interesting insight into the daily lives of village folk, a place for bartering and selling, a place to exchange gossip, and a platform to showcase one's crafts and farm produce. Here are a few of Odisha's most vibrant tribal haats:
Dukum Haat, Kutia tribe, Rayagada: The Kutia hill-dwelling tribe believe that the hilly ecosystems are sacred, and have been much affected by the mining development in Odisha. Heavily dependent on forest for their livelihoods, the Dukum Haat near Rayagada, set up largely by Kutia folk, is a marketplace for non-timber forest produce from lac to honey, medicinal plants to curious tubers!
Onukudelli Haat, Bonda tribe: The Bonda tribe is a semi-clothed, hill-dwelling community distinguished by the women's thick silver neck bands and beaded ornaments. The Onukudelli Haat still operates largely on barter principles, and wares include farm produce, beaded ornaments and basic weapons.
Bissamcuttack Haat, Dongria tribe, Rayagada: The Dongria tribe gets its name from its dwelling place, the hils or 'dongars' in local language. Best known for their agricultural prowess, the Dongria set up the Bissamcuttack haat to exchange farm produce and the numerous fruits like pineapple, jackfruit, oranges and mangoes that they grow in their compounds.
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Community Crafts
Odisha's traditional crafts are often family legacies, passed down from one generation to another, with few modifications and improvisations along the way.
Applique is a needlework technique where pieces of smaller, colourful fabric is sewed onto larger pieces, to create patterns and scenes. At Pipli village, near Bhubaneshwar one can pick up souvenirs from colorful awnings and umbrellas to a variety of bags and other knick-knacks.
Pattachitra are beautiful traditional mural paintings drawn on special, hand-made, tamarind seed paper. The paints are derived from extracts of flowers and fruits, mixed with powdered seashells for an unusual effect. Learn the craftsmanship that goes into every painting, with scenes inspired by Hindu mythology for a deeper understanding of the Pattachitra form of art.
The Dhokra Damar tribe of metalsmiths have had a long tradition of dhokra art - non-ferrous metal crafted with the help of an ancient, almost-forgotten wax-casting method. Some dhokra artefacts were found at the Mohenjodaro excavation sites, and interestingly, this tribe has carried forward the tradition since. The technique uses clay, beeswax and scrap metal to create objects of primitive simplicity, creative folk motifs and forms - discover the dhokra art form in Odisha.
For an immersive craft experience, stay at the Chandoori Sai luxury guesthouse - set in a pottery village of Goudaguda. The eco-friendly Chandoori Sai offers you comforts in the heart of tribal Odisha, while ensuring your revenue trickles down to the Adivasi communities in the vicinity.
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North East India's undulating terrain of dense rainforests and intermittently flooding grasslands has been remote and inaccessible for decades. Connected to India's mainland by a narrow strait, known as the chicken's neck - development has been slow in making its way to these far-flung states. The 8 north-eastern states with share their borders with 5 other countries, and their ethnic populations have long been at war, with other tribes within and without India. Yet with mining making inroads (literally!) into the coal-rich hillsides, and tourism paving the way for responsible cultural explorations, north-east India is rapidly changing.
Ethnic groups like Tibeto-Burmese, proto-Australoids and Indo-Mongoloids have intermingled to create an astonishing 200 tribes earning north-east India the epithet of 'one of the world's most culturally diverse regions'. Each tribe has a story to tell, of the past and their present - offering intrepid travellers a truly immersive cultural experience!
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Tribes & Tales
Mishing Tribe, Majuli island, Assam: Majuli, the world’s largest river island, once an astonishing 1,250 square kilometers in size, has succumbed to erosion over the years, and its present-day expanse of over 300 square kilometres is impressive nonetheless. Majuli's cultural diversity is distinct from that on the mainland, and the Mishing tribe is one among many tribes inhabiting the river island.
The Mishing tribe migrated all the way down from the hills of Arunachal Pradesh and settled down on the periphery of Majuli island – bringing with them their traditions. With their prowess as fishermen and skill in navigating the ever changing sand banks of the Brahmaputra – the Mishmi offer a great insight into Majuli’s economy. There is no written history of Mishings about their migration from hills to the plains of Assam – yet there are some interesting stories. While their traditions and customs have a lot in common with the Tani people across north-east India – as every group migrated away from the main population, the tribes have evolved different dialects and have embraced civilization to differing degrees.
Konyak Nagas, Mon village, Nagaland: Mon is the land of the Konyak Nagas – a tribe of adept artisans and skilled craftsmen, best known for their tattoos, their feathered outfits and a past as headhunters. Their houses are often decorated with skulls, hornbill beaks, elephant tusks, horns and wooden statues. Despite embracing Christianity, the Konyak Nagas still hold on to some of their animistic traditions and beliefs. Visit the Mon village on your journey through Nagaland for a opportunity to interact with the Konyak Nagas, and learn of their history and heritage.
Hornbill Festival, Nagaland (1st - 10th December, 2016): Every year, in the month of December, Nagaland hosts people from far and wide – who flock to watch the colours and cultures of the state unfold at the Hornbill Festival. A curated event, the Hornbill Festival has become the poster child for the state’s rich diversity of dances, music, martial arts, sports, handicrafts, religious ceremonies and cuisine. With performers from all corners of Nagaland, as also from other north-east Indian states – the festival offers a glimpse into the cultural heritage of a once-forgotten people. Spend the day at the Hornbill Festival grounds, attending performances, bargaining at the vibrant wayside markets and gorging on ethnic specialties.
Our December 2014 newsletter focused on Nagaland's hornbill festival, and our recent Facebook post featured glamping options nearby.
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Most people visit the desert state of Rajasthan for its imperial heritage; beautiful palaces, historic forts, regal havelis or mansions, and it is indeed, a resplendent route to journey on. Yet who built these grandiose structures, who immortalized battle stories in song and dance, who told stories of the ancient feudal lords, and who sustained these fiefdoms of old? Retrace the dustier routes that the riches of ancient feudal kingdoms travelled by and hear the history from the folk who’ve borne it to present-day - the desert tribes.
The desert folk with lineages of royalty intermingled with rustic tribes have long endured the adversities of the desert. Their ways of life have evolved to meet the challenges of their environment; from the cuisine that harvests the sparse desert shrubs and berries, to the colourful clothing that stands out against dun desert dunes, from the folk music and songs that speak of water and wells, to the dance forms that mimic the desert wildlife, from the masonry skills that carved intricate designs into local stones to the leather tanneries that thrived on desert cattle. Here are some of our tribal experiences through Rajasthan.
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Of Temples, Tenets and Traditions
Hike to Bhil temple, Udaipur: Often history is written by the victors and across Rajasthan, one can hear tales of the royal, ruling clans. Yet there is a tribal story waiting to be told - that of the Bhil tribes, a group of indigenous folk, expert bowmen who served as warriors in the Rajput and Marwari battles. Set off on a hike to Udaipur’s low-rising hills - where the Bhil tribes currently reside. As the city drops away, you can glimpse a landscape that has changed little from the times of the epic poem, Mahabharata, which records the deeds and skill of the Bhil folk. Atop a ridge, you can visit one of the many Bhil shrines - dedicated to Lord Shiva, and learn of their history preserved in tales and song.
Bishnoi village cycling safari: Cycle through the villages of the Bishnois, a sect found in the Thar Desert of Rajasthan who follow the tenets of a saint who preached that destroying nature is like harming mankind. Along the route, you will be welcomed into the houses of the Bishnoi elders, to partake in a quintessential tradition – drinking an infusion of poppy seeds grown on local farms!
Desert Dances, Manvar: There is no better way to enjoy the nights in the arid landscape of Rajasthan than to witness a traditional desert dance performance. Revel in the sounds of the desert after dark, as you watch one of many regional dances - each with their own accompanying instruments, props ranging from earthenware pots to ornaments, and swirling movements. The music and the song are often replete with meaning, and the dance techniques are unique to different desert tribes, as are the costumes.
Manganiar folk music, Jaisalmer: Jaisalmer is known for its local music tradition carried through generations by the Manganiar community - with Muslim ancestry and Sufi-esque folk songs. Descendants of Rajasthan’s royal Rajput clans, the Manganiars are the desert troubadours, once patronized by the feudal lords. Their music incorporates a variety of indigenous instruments; the 17-stringed ‘khamaycha’ made of mango-wood, goat skin and goat-intestine cords, the teakwood castanets or ‘khartaals’, and the ‘dholak’ - a bongo-like instrument coated with tar, clay and sand for an inimicable timbre. Visit the Hamira or Barna villages around Jaisalmer, for a deeper insight into the Manganiar music traditions, and an interaction with the world-famous Manganiar musician, Ghazikhan.
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Fairs and Festivals
Bhil tribe, Baneshwar Fair, Dungarpur: Every February, the Dungarpur district in Rajasthan comes alive for the Baneshwar tribal festival - the largest of its kind. The Bhil tribes from across the states of Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat and Rajasthan, gather in thousands to worship Lord Shiva, in his Mahadev avatar. The fair is held at the Baneshwar delta, between the rivers Som and Mahi, where ritualistic bathing and 'aartis' or prayers form part of the celebrations. The fair provides a stage for musical performances, folk dances, magic shows, acrobatic acts and giant merry go-rounds - ending each night with traditional folk music sung around bonfires.
Cattle Fair & World Sacred Sufi Festival, Nagaur: Desert life thrives on its cattle; as a means of transport, as a source of milk and hide, and as an asset of wealth. The annual Nagaur Cattle Fair (1st - 4th February, 2017) is a great way to socialize and interact with different pastoral nomads like the Rabari or Raika shepherds, the Ahir cattle breeders, the Gaderia goat herders, the Gaddi Muslim dairy farmers, among others.
Soon after, the World Sacred Sufi Festival (17th - 19th February, 2017) takes centrestage in Nagaur. In olden times, wandering tribes and minstrels roamed the deserts traveling from village to village to offer their music in exchange for food and a fireside. Each tribe evolved a different style of song and dance, weaving stories of war and heroism, love and pain - a tradition that the Sacred Spirit music festivals try to capture each year. Today, the festival features a range of artistes from musicians to dancers, from poets to singers, representing different indigenous traditions from across the world.
Bateshwar Cattle & Camel Fair, Uttar Pradesh: The Imperial highway stretching from north-west India to East Bengal passes by the town of Bateshwar - known for its Shiva temple. Between October and November each year, Bateshwar, hosts the second-largest cattle fair in the country. A traditional fair that dates back to over two thousand years, it is perhaps India's oldest of its kind. The cattle fair is followed by the Bateshwar Fair, where religious ceremonies and ritualistic bathing is performed by thousands of devotees from across India.
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The Clans of Central India
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Central India's forests have long co-existed with tribal hamlets; each tribe had their own limits for resource extraction, their savvy for reading the signs and trails of wildlife, and their methods for avoiding conflicts with the forest's other inhabitants. With livelihoods tied intrinsically to the forests, the new wildlife sanctuary demarcations enforcing tribal resettlements have had adverse effects on these indigenous people. The Tribal Forests Rights Act of 2006, was a policy that entitled tribal people to own patches of forest land for resource utilization and forest conservation, yet this has also come under the scanner lately, and may be revoked.
Central India's tribal art and culture reflects their geography of forests; their pantheons ride astride wild animals, their murals depict local wildlife and their dance imitates the movement of forest creatures. What's more, their favored moonshine is made from the same intoxicant enjoyed by monkeys: the mahua flower, and troops of primates can be seen traipsing tipsily through the thickets when the mahua is in blossom! Here are some of Central India's tribal experiences, that can be combined with our wildlife itinerary to help you trace the history and evolution of these forest folk.
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Gond and Baiga tribal art: One of India's most populous aboriginal tribes, the Gonds, are also one of the oldest, distinguished by their tattoos. The Gonds have long inhabited the stretches of Central India, where geological strata dating back to the fragmentation of the supercontinent Pangaea was discovered. The name ‘Gondwana’ was coined for the ancient kingdom of Gonds who inhabited the region, and do so even today. The Baigas are semi-nomadic people who practice shifting cultivation, and gather forest produce.
Gond and Baiga traditional paintings draw inspiration from the forests and wildlife around and this art uses highly stylized lines and patterns for depiction of wildlife and village scenes. The owner of Kipling Camp, Belinda Wright, a crusader for tiger conservation, also supports the Gond and Baiga artists and has created a co-operative to sustain their arts, craft and traditions.
Kanha Museum of Life and Art: Recently, the Singinawa Jungle Lodge inaugurated the Kanha Museum of Life and Art, within their premises to promote tribal art among its visitors. The Museum hopes to provide a visual tapestry of Gond and Baiga art forms with their intricate detail and offer an insight into its significance.
Tribal Museum & Museum of Man, Bhopal: A hidden gem in the city of Bhopal, the Tribal Museum is an incredibly curated collection of tribal art, folklore and lifestyles. From reconstructions of village houses to a gallery of children's games - the Bhopal Tribal Museum is like Ali Baba's cave for the culturally-curious! A block away, the Museum of Man documents the evolution of our species, with interesting examples from India's own tribal communities.
Madai tribal festivals, Madhya Pradesh: From December to march every year, the Madai festival travels across Central India from village to village. Initiated by the Bastar tribes in Chhattisgarh state, the festival has become popular among other tribes like the Baigas and the Gonds, as well. The festival is dedicated to a female deity, with different prayers and sacrifices offered by each village as the procession travels through. The revelries continue late into the night, with feasting and drinking of the local Mahua brew.
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Image Credits: Travel Scope India, Shoba Mohan.
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