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SCBC 2018/19 Competition Climbing Season
Dear BC Climbing Community,

School is back which means it is time to start a new competition climbing season! We had many BC climbers representing Canada at the World Youth Climbing Championships in Moscow, Russia August 9 through 16 and the Open World Championships just wrapped up in Innsbruck, Austria. Our Open athletes still have a few World Cups to round out the season as well. As we look ahead to this season, we wish the best for all those still finishing up the last one!

Sport Climbing British Columbia is seeking candidates to become more involved in our sport by helping out and sitting with one or more of the following committees. Please click on the link to see full Terms of Reference for each committee. We require individuals who are passionate about furthering the development of the sport of climbing in our province. A willingness to learn is more important than previous experience! Don't be shy . . . join a committee and contribute to this amazing sport! 

Contact any SCBC board member for more information. Applications of interest should be forwarded to president@sportclimbingbc.ca

Competition Officials Needed


SCBC is looking to building our pool of Technical Delegates and Jury Presidents to officiate at our local and provincial events.
  • Technical Delegate (TD) - works with the JP and Hosting facility to ensure the competition abides by SCBC rules and regulations, and ensure fair play for all athletes
  • Jury President (JP) - has overall responsibility within all competition areas (climbing walls, ISO etc.) and is responsible for all aspects of judging in the competition
If you are interested in learning more about these positions and possibly helping out at competitions this year, please contact president@sportclimbingbc.ca. Much on-the-job training will be provided by experienced officials, and interested individuals will gain experience by shadowing experienced officials prior to having the opportunity to be a lead official.

Over the past few of years, SCBC has worked hard to build our competition infrastructure. This means that we now have a lot of "stuff" that needs to be transported, set up, taken down and then stored between comps. WE NEED YOUR HELP!!! Ideally a small crew of volunteers would be best. We need one person who can tow and store (inside a locked garage) a small trailer. The whole crew will need to go to each competition on the night before (usually Friday) to set up all the tech equipment in preparation for the comp. The crew will then be responsible for dismantling the equipment when the comp is over. It will be loaded into the trailer and stored. Please contact Terry Spurrell if you can be part of this important crew!

IFSC World Youth Climbing Championships


Congratulations to all our BC athletes who represented Canada at the World Youth Climbing Championships in Moscow, Russia this past August.

Youth B
Alexis Binder - 40 lead, 28 speed
Sonya Colliander - 35 boulder, 29 lead
Emi Takashiba - 21 speed
Victor Baudrand - 6 lead
Brennan Doyle - 39 lead, 36 speed
Ethan Hoffman - 16 boulder, 28 lead
Jaxson MacDonald - 58 lead, 24 speed

Youth A
Brielle Zacharias - 31 speed
Aidan Doyle - 50 boulder, 52 lead, 28 speed
Hunter Lastiwka - 41 speed
Guy McNamee - 18 boulder, 16 lead
Kindar McNamee - 32 lead
Devin Wong - 11 lead

Junior
Sophie Buitendyk - 24 boulder, 33 lead
Mika Hosoi - 27 boulder, 29 lead
Sean Faulkner - 41 lead
Ivan Luo - 38 lead, 20 speed

photos: Wayne Takashiba

IFSC World Climbing Championships


Congratulations to all our BC athletes who represented Canada at the World Climbing Championships in Innsbruck, Austria.

Women
Allison Vest - 36 boulder
Alannah Yip - 51 lead, 37 speed, 13 boulder, 15 combined
Becca Frangos - 67 lead, 68 speed, 62 boulder, 53 combined
Tiffany Melius - 63 lead, 60 speed, 57 boulder, 47 combined

Men
Sean McColl - 37 lead, 65 speed, 80 boulder, 43 combined


photo: Sytse van Slooten

IFSC World Cup Results


We have had a number of BC athletes competing in World Cup events through the summer. Congrats on all their hard work!
 
Briançon, France - Lead 
Becca Frangos - 46
Alannah Yip - 47
Sean McColl - 13
Elan Jonas-McRae - 51

Arco, Italy - Lead & Speed
Teyha Rogers - 36S
Alison Vest - 46L
Becca Frangos - 48S, 54L
Christy Spurrell - 39S, 65L
Sean McColl - 50S, 32L
Elan Jonas-McRae - 46L

Munich, Germany - Boulder
Becca Frangos - 63
Sean McColl - 95
Elan Jonas-McRae - 51

photos: Sheila Farrell McCarron

Oscar Baudrand - Arco Rock Junior Champion


In August, BC climber Oscar Baudrand, who resides in Salt Lake City, Utah, participated in the Arco Rock Junior Under 14 Cup in Arco, Italy. As the only Canadian in the competition, Oscar placed 4th in Boulder, 1st in Speed and 1st in Lead, taking the Overall win in his age group. Congratulations Oscar!!

                 
photos: Julien Baudrand

 Team BC Youth Evaluation Camp


In June, SCBC conducted its first ever Team BC Evaluation Camp; this camp was for athletes who will compete in Youth B this season. The second evaluation camp, for athletes competing in Youth A and Junior for the 2018/19 season is taking place October 13 & 14. Eligible athletes have received an email regarding registration. 

Athletes at the evaluation camps participate in athletic readiness evaluations, including:

  • Tactical, technical and sport specific assessments in both bouldering and lead.
  • Athletic readiness assessments for mobility, strength, cardiovascular and power.
Athletes receive:
  • Instruction in bouldering, lead, and general athletic fitness training.
  • An individual report detailing their results in all assessment areas.
  • Specific recommendations for areas of improvement.
These evaluation camps will aid in selecting athletes for the 2018-19 High Performance and Development BC Teams. An announcement regarding athletes selected to the HP and Development BC Teams and accompanying training plans will be made in early November.
The SCBC Board of Directors is pleased to share our 2018/2019 Athlete/Parent Information Book with you. We hope that you will find it a useful source of information as we make our way through the season. The book is located on the SCBC website and will also be available at the bottom of your MySCBC profile page for easy reference.

 2018/19 Provisional Schedule

Boulder Season:
November 3rd - gneiss climbing, Kelowna - Boulder
November 17th/18th - Climb Base5 Coquitlam - Boulder
December 1st - Project Abbotsford - Boulder
December 15th/6th - Climb Base5 North Vancouver - Boulder/Lead/Speed Olympic
January 12th/13th - Project Cloverdale - Youth Boulder Provincials
January 19th/20th - BoulderHouse, Victoria - Open Boulder Provincials
February 16th-18th - BlocShop, Montréal - Youth Boulder Nationals
March 2nd/3rd - Bolder Climbing Community, Calgary - Open Boulder Nationals

Difficulty Season:
December 15th/6th - Climb Base5 North Vancouver - Boulder/Difficulty/Speed Olympic
March 16th - SFU Climbing Wall, Burnaby - Difficulty & Speed
March 30th - Richmond Olympic Oval, Richmond - Difficulty
April 6th - Ground Up, Squamish - Difficulty
April 19th-20th* - The Boulders Climbing Gym, Saanich - Difficulty Provincials
May 18th-20th - Allez Up, Montréal - Youth & Open Difficulty & Speed Nationals
*to be confirmed

Speed Season:
December 15th/6th - Climb Base5 North Vancouver - Boulder/Difficulty/Speed Olympic
March 16th - SFU Climbing Wall, Burnaby - Difficulty & Speed
March 31st - Richmond Olympic Oval, Richmond -  Speed
April 7th - Ground Up, Squamish - Speed
April 21st* - Brentwood College School, Mill Bay - Speed Provincials
May 18th-20th - Allez Up, Montréal - Youth & Open Difficulty & Speed Nationals
*final dates to be confirmed




 


REMINDER: Coach Training Requirements


In order to register as a coach for any competition, you must have completed:

Contact Terry if you have any questions about these requirements.

Additional Coach Resources:
Sport Climbing Long Term Athlete Development Plan
Coaching Association of Canada - free online courses for National Coaches Week, Sept 22-30
Pacific Sport - find your local branch for courses

 


Athlete Rep - Derek Runions


Do you have any questions or comments for your Athlete Rep?? Ideas about how we can make competitions and climbing better?? A good time to touch base with Derek is at the end of an SCBC competition. He can also be reached anytime via email at athleterep@sportclimbingbc.ca

News from the CEC

  • Jeff Thomson, a former SCBC Board Member, has been appointed Interim Executive Director and Technical Director of the CEC.
  • BC coach Andrew Wilson has been appointed Interim High-Performance Director and National Head Coach of the CEC.
  • National Licences will be purchased directly through the CEC this year. A National Licence will be required to compete in any national level events. Information should be available on the CEC website soon.

President - Peter McNamee
Vice-President - Sebastian Powell
Secretary-Treasurer - Joanne McLarty
Registrar - Terry Spurrell
Director at Large - Jennifer Berdahl
Director at Large - Simon Parton
Athlete Rep - Derek Runions
Past President - Iain Stewart Patterson
Yours in Climbing,

 

Peter, Sebastian, Joanne, Terry, Jennifer, Simon, Derek and Iain

Your SCBC Board

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