Hello and Welcome to our October Newsletter

• Tulips are best planted between late October and November. The colder the weather the better when planting them because this reduces the risk of infection from Tulip Fire, a fungal disease which can be present in the soil. It is also a good idea to plant them in a piece of ground which has not previously had Tulips in if possible. If not then plant them in pots instead.
• If you want to increase the chance of your Tulips flowering year on year try to plant them really deep. A minimum of 6 inches (measured from the base of the bulb) but 8 inches is better if you can. This helps to stop them from producing small offsets which take away energy from the main bulb. The exception to this rule are the species Tulips which can be planted much shallower and should be encouraged to naturalise.
• Any tender plants still outside must now be moved indoors or into the greenhouse. Make sure you have some horticultural fleece or a similar breathable material such as old bedsheets to hand to be able to quickly cover your borderline hardy plants if the weather suddenly turns very cold.
• Any of your evergreen house plants which look a little yellow could be given one last feed for the season. Make it half the strength than the instructions direct. You don't want to encourage excess growth at a time of this time of year and going into the winter as the days are shortening and plants will be getting less energy from the sun.
• Start planting container-grown shrubs now but make sure you fill up the planting hole with water and water in too to make sure there is sufficient moisture in the soil to get the roots off to a good start and help them to establish better before next summer.
• Continue to feed the Birds and start to increase the calorific value of the food you put out helping them to maintain a good body weight as the weather gets colder. You can start putting fat balls out but just start with one or two only replacing when needed so they don't go mouldy in the feeders. Remember to always keep birdbaths topped up with fresh water.
• Get ready to collect leaves that will begin to fall from deciduous trees and shrubs soon. Set aside a separate compost bin or bay for leaves so you can make leaf mould. This is like black gold to gardeners and woodland plants such as ferns particularly benefit from having composted leaves incorporated when planting or mulching around.
• Scarify your lawn to remove the build up of moss and grass trimmings form the summer cuts. Traditionally lawns would have their last cut at the end of September but with our increasingly mild winters the grass often continues to grow so you may need to make a few more cuts before winter but don't cut it too short. Leave some length so the grass can feed itself and protect its roots over the winter.
• Shorten whippy shoots on climbing roses to about 4 inches and tie in any you want to train as new growth. This will protect them from damage caused by autumn winds causing the stems to thrash about. Don't tidy them too much though leave some finished flowers to form hips for winter interest and later on as a food source for birds such as Blackbirds, Thrushes and winter-visiting Fieldfares and Redwings.
• Not so much a tip but an interesting fact. The perceived change in colour of the trees and shrubs at this time of year is in fact the result of the chemical breakdown of Chlorophyll. Apart from performing the role of converting the Sun's energy into sugars, which are vital for all plant growth, Chlorophyll is the chemical which makes leaves green. When it breaks down as a result of the shortening days in autumn it reveals those previously hidden pigments caused by other chemical compounds. Some of which are the Carotenes responsible for the colour of many fruits and vegetables including the orange in carrots.