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Hair by Brian
As The Chair Turns
"Combing" the internet so you don't have to
“Beauty begins the moment
you decide to be yourself.” - Coco Chanel
I have a feeling that most of you might agree that April was a busy month with Spring Breaks, travels, and visiting friends and family members. For me, I attended a hair cutting workshop, a hair industry trade show, and even had a house guest myself last month.
If there is anything you know about me it is that I cannot get enough education. The more I lean and absorb, the more it benefits you.
These workshops and hair shows are great refreshers and reminders of things I’ve learned in the past but may not have had an opportunity to practice much (or at least in a while). I’ll be sitting in one of these workshops and go “Oh, Yeah, I remember learning that.” Every time I learn something new, though, I am always imagining how I will be able to incorporate what I’ve just learned in to your next haircut or color. Many of you have already benefited from these workshops. If I can learn at least one new thing or pick up a new tip, it’s a successful workshop. And some times these workshops are simply reminders to watch my posture, check my techniques, take care of my health, and say please and thank you.
The Schwarzkopf hair color workshop I attended was spread out over 4 different sessions. The transformations were amazing. A few I’ve shared on my Hair by Brian Facebook page. Many of the upcoming hair color trends are taken right off the runway, from haute couture, and modified in to something you could wear every day. You may not think you’d ever be wearing something you've seen during Fashion Week, but in a short time, it will be simplified in to something you can eventually incorporate into your own style. The same goes for hairstyles and hair color. You might say I’ll never wear THAT, but in a few months time you’ll be asking me how would you look with this or that hairstyle or hair color.
The hair show was still focusing on and demonstrating men’s “tailored” haircuts, basically shorter, classic styles. Last month, if you remember, I shared an article that men’s hairstyles were trending toward the longer side. The great thing about men’s hairstyles today is that pretty much anything goes as long as it looks good on you, suits your style, and you can carry it off. Just because something is trending does not mean it is for everyone. That said, I have great article on article on taper fade haircuts - what are they and what is the best style for you. And there is no time like the present for an article with some advice from neighborhood barberswith philosophical to practical advice on being a man.
For you ladies, I found a nice article with some “dope” hairstyles for your workout.
If you have long hair, and have had an “amazing” shampoo from me, you’ll know I stress the importance of finger combing or detangling your hair while conditioning. I have article for you on the benefits of this finger detangling.
And what about your hair dryer? Has it seen it’s last days? It may be time for an upgrade. Check out the article on 5 Reasons Why It May Be Time To Upgrade Your Blow Dryer.
I’ve had many articles about the health of your hair and feeding it from the inside out. I have a nice article for you about Eating Your Way to Healthy Hair from a trichologist who says the secret to growing healthy hair starts with your diet.
Don’t forget to tell your Mum how much she means to you. Mother's Day is Sunday, May 13th.
Take a look at this month’s newsletter below for all of that and more.
What's Inside This Month
(open this email your browser and take advantage of the index links below)
Look Dope at the Gym with
These 6 Workout Hairstyles!
As you might’ve noticed, we’re all about loving your hair. That includes the gym! You can still look fierce while you’re on the elliptical. You can look cute even when you’re busting out reps on the rowing machine! You don’t have to just put it up in a pony and call it good. There are tons of easy ways to feel good about your hair when you’re getting fit! Let’s take a look at a few of our favorites with the help of Nicole Capurso of Honor Your Nutrition and our very own Ashley Gee.
The Triple Pony
This one keeps your hair out of your face without going to a full ponytail. It’s a sturdy braid that won’t come undone and it also makes you look like a bad ass warrior princess!
Braided Pigtails
If you’re shooting for a playful look that keeps your locks tight, braided pigtails are a great option!
Dutch Braids
Dutch braids are a perfect way to keep your field of vision completely open without losing out on cuteness. Nicole is rockin it in this look and her highlights are really making the braids pop!
Fun Buns
Ashley is knockin our socks off with this one. It’s a double bun, wrapped up on either side of the head. You can also add a little flair to it with a few strands down in the front to give your face a little shape.
The Warrior Ponytail
What better way to work out than with the hair of a dang warrior? Nicole is looking super tough and not just because of those guns. Ok, it’s mostly the guns, but it’s also the hair.
The Braided Pony
There’s nothing wrong with a ponytail, don’t get us wrong! But if you’re going pony, spice it up a little with a side braid. It can give you a little elegance while you’re grunting through those reps!
The mane attraction:
hair-tossing horses – in pictures
“Horses can be hilarious!” says German photographer Wiebke Haas. “It’s my greatest passion to tease out nearly human expressions from them.” She has turned this passion into a delightful series called Horsestyle (shortlisted for a 2018 Sony World Photography award) featuring stallion Pauli with his lovely Elvis lip-curl, and Linus with a big, bouncy mane to rival Farrah Fawcett’s.
Haas grew up around animals, which perhaps explains why her horses look so at ease. “The most difficult part was to keep them straight to the camera,” she says. Her secret? Horse goodies and the occasional “tickle in the ear”.
(I recommend this, not just for you naturals, but for all of you with long hair)
5 Benefits Of Finger Detangling Natural Hair
I hate hair tangles. You hate hair tangles. Everyone hates hair tangles! But hair tangles are a natural occurrence in curly hair, aka natural hair. The natural tendencies to remove hair tangles are to either comb through it, or brush through it. This is all well and dandy if you use the right conditioner and the right tool, but most people don’t have the right tool, or conditioner or patience.
Then chunks of hair tear out as we comb angrily at the tangled knots, then we gasp and cry out. ‘WHY!!”. 6 months later, we are not happy that our hair has not grown even an inch. So I came up with the solution to ditch the comb and go in favour of finger detangling. Now, when I say ditch the comb, I don’t mean entirely. I still comb my hair about once every 3-6 months when I am doing a deep clarification to strip my hair of everything. But, in my normal routine, I have decided to go for finger combing.
I have been doing this for over two years now, and, whoa, I am very pleased with the results. Below are 5 benefits of finger detangling natural hair below.
1) LESS BREAKAGE
The obvious benefit of finger detangling natural hair is less breakage. This is because your finger can easily find knots and work its way around it, whereas a comb might have dive into a knot before you can feel it, which would make an even ‘tanglier’ knot.
2) EASIER TANGLES
Because your fingers can find knots more easily, it will result in less tangles. If you use a comb, it will make more of a mess of the tangle. And the tangle that could have been easily dealt with would now become a huge ball of an impossible maze, which you must cut because you cannot untangle it anymore… does that make sense?
3) HEALTHIER ENDS
Another benefit of finger detangling natural hair is that since you are gently pulling the strands apart, and not tearing it, your strands are healthier and the ends are thicker.
4) LESS PAIN
You all know the pain of yacking your hair with a comb! Finger combing eliminates that.
5) LONGER HAIR
AND all these results to longer hair. Whoo!
Uh? Don’t panic. You see, since your fingers are the tool catching the tangles, it is bound to miss some hair that are mesh together (even though they are not tangled yet)… and, overtime, they might tangle. This is why it is good to comb your hair at least once every 3-6 months to catch those missed hair.
2) You Need More Patience
Finger combing needs more patient than combing. Yet, in my opinion, it takes less time because tangles are detangled easily than if combing with a brush or comb. But, again, it takes more patience at the beginning because you are working through your hair a few strands at a time.
A word to the wise – detangle your hair when you are not in a hurry to do something else.
A good balance of finger combing and (comb) combing is the way to go in getting healthier, longer and stress-free hair. If you like 5 Benefits of Finger Detangling Natural Hair, comment below, and don’t forget to share.
Scalp expert reveals the secrets to regaining fuller locks - and it all starts with six essential nutrients
Not eating enough nutrients can lead to dry scalp, brittle locks or even hair loss
Trichologist Simone Lee said the secret to growing healthy hair starts with diet
She revealed the six essential nutrients to strengthen hair and promote growth
Nutrients include proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals and water
Here, Ms Lee revealed the foods that contain the right nutrients for healthy hair
They say we are what we eat.
But not eating enough nutrients can lead to dry scalp, brittle locks or even hair loss.
Australian trichologist Simone Lee said the secret to growing healthy hair all starts with your diet.
She revealed the six essential nutrients - proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals and water - to help strengthen hair tissue and promote growth.
Here, she shared the foods that contain the right nutrients for healthy hair.
Nutrition is the interrelation between organisms in the body and nutrients that have been transformed from digested food and ingested by the body's organisms,' Ms Lee said.
'A failing in the conversion and absorption of nutrients from food will affect the cellular activity within the body and ultimately can result in the occurrence of disease, unhealthy hair and even hair loss.
'Consuming appropriate amounts of the six essential nutrients is the key to growing healthy Hair.'
PROTEINS
Hair is made up of protein so if you are not eating enough protein, this would subsequently cause hair loss.
There are four key amino acids necessary to produce hair keratin - cysteine, lysine, arginine and methionine.
'Of these amino acids lysine and methionine are classified as essential, meaning they are not formed by the body and must be made available through our diets,' she said.
She explained you can also top up your intake of protein by eating lean meats such as chicken, fish, beef, pork or lamb - or dairy products such as eggs, milk, cheese and yoghurt.
'Consuming combinations of vegetables that are high in proteins like peas, beans and soya beans are a great way to boost protein levels within the body,' she said.
CARBOHYDRATES
'Carbohydrates are essential for a well-balanced diet. When the carbon system unites with oxygen in the blood stream, immediate calories used for energy by the body are produced,' Ms Lee said.
'This energy helps divide the cells in the hair matrix and germinating layers of the skin. Carbohydrates help regulate protein and fat metabolism.'
Simple carbs or sugars can be found in natural foods including fruits, honey, milk and vegetables.
'Some great sources of complex carbohydrates are beans, lentils, peas, whole grains and starchy potatoes,' she said.
FATS
'Maintaining body functions is assisted by a healthy intake of fats,' she said.
'Vitamins must have fat to dissolve and nourish the body. and polyunsaturated fats help keep hair shiny.
'Fatty acids essential such as linoleic (Omega 6) and Linolenic acid assist in inadequate oil production from the sebaceous gland.
Omega 3 can be activated in the body through consumption of linseed and marine oils from salmon, tuna and sardines.
Deficiencies in magnesium, zinc and vitamin b6 may result in inhibited Omega 3 and Omega 6 pathways within the body which can cause hair loss.
VITAMINS
Fresh fruit, green vegetables and grains are a great source of water soluble vitamins. Vitamins connected to maintaining healthy hair and scalp are:
Vitamin A - helps prevent dry hair, and maintaining a healthy skin. Found in carrots, liver and green vegetables.
Vitamin B (thiamine) - assists in prevention of dandruff and red skin. Found in liver kidneys and green vegetables.
Vitamin B (pantothenic acid) - Helps maintain hair colour and possibly prevent early greying. Found in mushrooms and liver.
Vitamin B (folic acid) - Required for cell multiplication. Found in liver, kidneys and green vegetables.
Biotin - Water soluble B vitamin, lack of biotin can cause brittle hair. Found in wholegrains, liver and yolk.
Vitamin C - is needed for maintaining skin health. Found in citrus fruits.
Vitamin D - assists in the absorption of calcium and food digestion. Found in eggs, fish and milk.
Vitamin E - aids in hair growth, blood circulation and may help premature ageing of skin. Found in eggs, green vegetables and bread.
Vitamin K - assists in the prevention of blood clotting, aids blood circulation. Found in broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbage.
MINERALS
Minerals are chemicals the body requires in order to work properly. They are equally as essential as vitamins and also can be obtained from food.
Minerals connected to maintaining healthy hair and scalp are:
Cobalt deficiency leads to scaly dry skin. Found in broccoli and fruit.
Copper deficiency may cause hair loss and greying. Found in liver, cereals and nuts.
Iodine deficiency may cause thinning of hair and dry hair. Found in shellfish, kelp and other seafood.
Iron helps prevent brittle hair and maintain a healthy hair growth cycle. Found in liver, egg yolk and puha.
Zinc deficiency may lead to hair loss, dry and oily skin. Found in oysters, wheatgerm and bran.
WATER
'An appropriate consumption of water is essential for life. Two thirds of our skin tissues are made up of water,' she said.
'The human body loses approximately two litres of body fluids in a day, and is replaced through consumption of water and other liquids.'
By going through litres of mineral water every day, it will hydrate your hair and prevent dry scalps.
5 Reasons Why it May Be Time
to Upgrade Your Blow Dryer
Time has a way of flying by. Before we know it, weeks, months and even years pass by and we’ve barely noticed. Suddenly the teen client you did for the junior prom is booking her wedding consultation. And her mom is now one of your best gray coverage clients.
Because it’s so easy to lose track of time, it’s also easy to lose track of the viability of your tools. And that means you may not have noticed that it could be time to retire your go-to, workhorse blow-dryer and switch to something sleeker and more up-to-date. This holds true for you and for your clients’ at-home dryers.
So take a moment and review this checklist from CHI Artist Rocky Vitelli to determine if it is indeed high time that you (and your clients) upgraded that daily blow dryer!
1) The Technology Isn’t Cutting Edge. A “meh” blowout will steal the thunder from your brilliant haircut or dazzling haircolor service. Doesn’t your work deserve the very best finale? Modern technology—like the ceramic ionic technology found in the new CHI Nano,—will reduce hair damage and dryness and produce glossy, shiny results.
2) It’s Beyond Cleaning. Dirt, dust and hair continuously become trapped in your dryer, and even if you’ve been good about keeping the filter clean, the time comes when you simply can’t eliminate all the debris. That’s when basic sanitary practices are compromised, which means it’s time for a fresh, new tool. Good to know? The CHI Nano features proprietary Nano Silver and Blue LED light technology that actually helps to kill bacteria in the dryer and in the air.
3) Your Arm, Shoulder and/or Wrists Hurt. Traditionally, pro tools have been heavier than mass market products, in order to house the mega motors that produce salon-worthy work. But today’s dryers have been developed to offer maximum power in a lightweight body. The CHI Nano, for example, weighs less than a pound but contains an 1875W DC motor. What’s more, the sleek, ergonomic design is easy on your hands and wrists, so you can blow dry away, day after day, without worry of pain or injury.
4) Each Blowout Takes Forever. As blow dryer motors age, they become less efficient. That not only slows down your blowouts and strains your body, it also can cause sections of the hair to dry unevenly, leading to frizz and dullness. When that happens, the old model has got to go!
5) It’s Electrically-Challenged. If you’re experiencing power surges, unexpected shutoffs or sparking, or if the cord or plug is frayed, loose or damaged in any way, it’s time to lay your old friend to rest. Safety first!
Advice on Being a Man from 8 Friendly Neighborhood Barbers
Day in and day out barbers shoot the breeze with the wide variety of men who walk into their shops. As these men settle in the barber’s chair and get a trim, they share tidbits about their lives, their problems, and their observations on the world today. Since barbers spend so much time listening to and talking with other men, we figured they might have accumulated some pearls of wisdom on how men can live life well. So we asked 8 barbers from a wide range of ages, experience, and backgrounds to answer this question: “What’s your best advice on being a man?” The responses we got range from the philosophical to practical style advice. Soak it up, and go have an enjoyable conversation and a relaxing shave with your local barber.
Click on the image below for a little advice from 8 friendly neighborhood barbers.
It was only a generation ago (give or take) that a basin-cut was still a legitimate men’s hairstyle for some barbers. Before the barbershop renaissance in the 21st century, the trade often amounted to a hairy half hour in the chair as someone with minimal training took a hack-it-and-hope approach to your head.
A lot has changed. These days even high-street barbers are capable of creating haircuts akin to artwork, using tools that wouldn’t look out of place in an operating theatre.
Case in point: the taper fade.
This modern haircut element is the perfect mix of classic and contemporary, providing the ideal foundation upon which to build almost any style. As sharp on a LinkedIn bio as it is on a Tinder one, it’s a next-level barbering technique and one that will get you noticed. But just what exactly is it?
Taper Vs. Fade: What’s The Difference?
The first thing to understand about the taper fade is that it is actually an amalgamation of two different barbering tricks – somewhat unsurprisingly, the taper and the fade.
These two cutting methods are similar in that they both offer a way to graduate smoothly between differing lengths of hair. The distinction between the two is that a taper deals with longer hair and sculpts using both scissors and clippers, while a fade is performed with clippers only and is much shorter, right down to the skin usually.
Leading barber Joe Mills, of Joe & Co., has a handy analogy to make it clear.
“Think about trousers that taper, says Mills. “They gradually get narrower. So, in haircut terms, a taper is not down to skin but the hair gradually gets shorter. A fade is similar but fades away entirely, hence the term ‘skin fade’. It’s more extreme than a taper.”
What Is A Taper Fade Haircut?
Combining a taper with a fade allows barbers to neatly transition from hair of a significant length, right down to a skin fade with – quite literally – razor-sharp precision. This creates the sort of modern, polished look that would have had the hairdressers of yesteryear scratching at their butchered barnets in astonishment.
How Did The Taper Fade Become Popular?
Both tapered and faded styles have had a huge resurgence over the past few years, thanks in no small part to certain period dramas opening men’s eyes to a new (or old) style of grooming.
“It descended from the old days when hair clippers were hand powered and you could only go short,” explains Mikey Pearson, director of Manifesto barbershop. “They would cut along the hairline to create a kind of wedge then blend it in with scissors. If hair flicked out from above the ears you would be classed as ‘scruffy’.”
The taper fade harks back to this, while keeping one foot firmly planted in the here and now, making it the trim of choice for so many contemporary, style-conscious gents.
“It’s a clean, crisp look,” says Pearson. “And thanks to the likes of the Peaky Blinders we’re seeing more and more men asking for it.”
Is It For You?
The taper fade is a versatile trim, because it’s essentially a boss-level version of the short back and sides. It can be worn with anything from a short crop to an all-singing, all-shiny pompadour on top. Because of this versatility, it’s a cut that can be adapted to suit most face shapes.
However, if you’re cursed with a boat race longer than Seabiscuit’s and want to try this style, you’re best advised to steer clear of anything with too much height. The close-cut sides and length left on top mean that the taper fade naturally lends the face some additional length. Which, unless you’re deliberately going for the equine vibe, is probably something to avoid.
“The taper fade is suited to most as you can adapt the height and shape of the fade and weight of the blend to suit any client,” explains Tom Chapman, founder of the Lions Barber Collective and ambassador to The Bluebeards Revenge. “If you have a more daring client in the chair you can take the shortest grad up pretty high and leave a heavy blend. You can also leave more weight at the sides behind the ear by creating an arch as your base shape instead of the usual straight shape.”
The Best Taper Fade Styles And How To Get Them
Before you buzz off to the barbers for one of the decade’s defining chops, take a look at some of the style’s most popular variations for a bit of follicular inspiration.
Taper Fade & Short Crop
They say less is more and, looking at the minimalist styling of this particular trim, we’re inclined to agree. It’s perfect for the kind of guy who wants something smart and low maintenance that won’t leave him wincing at old photographs 10 years down the line.
“This style has a very graduated skin-fade from the base up to a longer layer,” explains Mark Woolley, founder of Electric Hairdressing. “The top layer is slightly disconnected from the back and sides.”
Think this might be the cut for you? Woolley always recommends taking a photo along with you to avoid any awkward, post-trim mirror moments.
“You ultimately want to ask for a fading cut with a slightly disconnected top layer which gives you a nice, choppy texture,” he says.
Apply a salt spray or matte clay/paste roughly with your fingers to increase separation and help emphasise the natural, care-free texture created on top.
Taper Fade & Pompadour
If Johnny Cash had been born 60 years later, there’s no doubt that this would be the do he’d be rocking. A perfect blend of old and new, the pompadour is a nod to one of the defining styles of the last century, while the taper fade on the back and sides brings things right up to date.
So, how can you get the look? Again, you’ll want some inspiration.
“A picture is worth a hundred words,” says Mills. “This is doubly true when getting a cut. Take an image in so at least your barber knows what you are thinking. The terminology we use can be confusing and for me the consultation with the client is key.”
Mills adds that the trick to getting the cut right is to know how close you want to go at the back and sides. “Ideally the top should be at least four or five inches longer than at the back and sides,” he says.
“To style it you will need a decent hair dryer and a Denman vent brush,” advises Mills. “This isn’t a wash and go look.
“I recommend a styling mousse on clean damp hair. Evenly distribute a tangerine-sized amount through the hair and then using your brush and dryer, style it back away from the face creating height and direction.” Finish with a strong-hold hair spray if you find your style loses its pomp after a couple of hours.
Taper Fade & Side-Swept Length
Generally speaking, the graduated back and sides of a taper fade is geared towards shorter haircuts. However, with some clever, asymmetrical styling, there’s no reason you can’t embrace your inner grunger at the same time.
“The key characteristics of this cut are the low fade on the back and sides with a disconnected top,” says Pearson.
“Ask for a low fade, something like a five into a four. Keep the top disconnected, cutting short to long to keep length at the fringe. As always I would recommend taking a photo with you.”
In terms of styling at home, Pearson suggests using a volume spray in damp hair and blow drying upwards. Once dry, he recommends finishing off with a matte clay to add texture.
Taper Fade & Short Braids
A few short braids or dreads thrown into the mix adds a nice touch of personality to a taper fade, while remaining clean and smart enough to dress up or down. Highly-experienced barber Joseph Lanzante, who runs his own barbering academy, is certainly a fan.
“A taper fade finished with short dreads on top has become a very popular haircut as it provides a clean and stylish finish to the overall style,” he says.
“To create a clean-cut taper fade, you will need to ask your barber for a grade one cut on the back, fading up to grade two and three. Make sure you keep your hair long on top long to ensure you can create the short dreads that are key to this style.”
Another plus point for this particular style is that management at home couldn’t be easier. Lanzante recommends nothing more complex than coconut oil. Rub the oil through the hair to keep it nourished and moisturised but be careful not to use too much or it could wind up looking oily.
Grey hair – you either love it or hate it, show it off or hide it away. According to research, different ethnic groups will generally go grey at different times. Caucasians tend to start from the mid-30s, while ethnic hair tends to go grey only after 50. Contrary to popular belief, stress has not been shown to be linked to hair going prematurely grey, but genes can play a large role. Your children are more likely to go prematurely grey if you or your partner did.
Reasons for going prematurely grey:
Vitamin B12, zinc and copper are needed to nourish your hair and to help in the metabolic processes involved in giving your hair its natural color. If you are deficient in vitamin C and E, you are more likely to go prematurely grey.
Smoking results in the development of free radicals in your body, which in turn causes oxidative stress in the body. This can lead to a decrease in the pigmentation capacity of melanin, resulting in grey hair.
Junk and processed foods accelerate aging, as these increase the oxidative stress and AGEs (advanced glycation endproducts), which accelerate aging and the loss of hair colour.
“Hair doesn’t turn white overnight,” says ethnic hair expert from Tanaz Hair Body and Nails, Brian Warfield. “The pigment can stop being produced while the strand is still growing, so you will find that a strand of hair can be half the original color and half white. My experience is that the strands that turn white become very smooth and resistant to color and chemicals. It’s like the cuticle is no longer there; chemicals don’t penetrate the way they used to, and the texture becomes wiry. ”Co-owner of Tanaz Hair Body and Nails, and hair specialist, Shelene Shaer, explains that all hair is made up of protein and keratin, with cuticles that overlap the hair. “Hair growth cycles can be anywhere from two to seven years, growing around 1cm a month.
As we age, the hair follicles become thinner, and some close up, so we have less hair. ”She adds that there are many amazing new products on the market that can slow this process down, although they tend to need continual use.
Color or grey
The good news is that grey hair has become a big trend, and many celebrities are sporting grey or silver hair – including those who don’t have any natural grey of their own! However, says Warfield, if you don’t like your white hair, you can opt for color. Make sure the color you use states that it will cover grey completely, otherwise the white hairs will turn out lighter than the strands that are not white. “If you go to a professional stylist, they must know that in order to cover white hair, they need to mix a base shade into their formula. For example, red shades on their own generally don’t cover white hair completely, and can turn pink. But if you mix a base shade of brown at the level you are targeting, then it will give the red something to hold onto and you will get better coverage with your color. Shaer suggests a number of ways to color grey hair.
“One is blanket color; this is when the color is solid and you will only get to see your regrowth. Inoa Loréal launched a color about four years ago that is a translucent – in other words, it colors the hair but it has a slight babylight effect, so the hair looks more natural. The grey gets about 80% colored and I love this. Another option is to add babylights of your natural color into your hair, and this way you maintain some grey, but it looks less. If you are struggling with the upkeep, consider keeping out a grey streak in front, to disguise the grey. ”With ethnic hair, Warfield recommends that if you relax your hair and your white hair goes yellow, use a silver shampoo after the relaxer to neutralize the yellow. “The more white hair you have, the more you need to moisturize it, as this will help to keep it under control. Use heat when doing your moisturizing treatment, to aid penetration of the product. The higher the percentage of white hair on your head, the shorter your cut should be. It helps to do a very stylish short cut, as this will take attention away from the white hair.
How to manage your hair:
According to Warfield, white hair needs more heat when it comes to styling, in order to get it straight. “Chemicals will still work (ie relaxers), but they may take longer and can give the hair a yellowish tinge. Sometimes, and this depends on the individual, going natural is an option that could be considered, especially if the texture of the white hair is very coarse and resistant. I’ve found that it’s very difficult to make your hair do something it doesn’t want to.”
With grey hair in general, colour takes longer, and stronger chemicals are needed to penetrate it, notes Shaer. “You will need to relearn how to manage your hair. It requires more work and styling, and the cut becomes so important, as styled hair is much easier to manage.” Colouring your hair generally softens the grey, she says. Hair oils and anti-frizz products will also help.
Why doesn’t my hair work for me anymore?
“Grey hair is like having a stranger move in; the way you style, cut and blow becomes so different. Shampoos with vitamins and lustre are important,” says Shaer.“Mind you, not all textures react the same way. Some are easier to work with than others, so not everyone will experience the same levels of frustration,” Warfield adds. Should you be battling with the changes in your hair, ask your stylist to teach you how to manage your “new” hair. You may find that you need to spend more time blowdrying; your cut and style will go a long way towards helping you to look and feel good. Contemplating doing box color? Click here to find out whether or not you should.
At the Contemporary Jewish Museum
Mar 15, 2018–Jul 8, 2018
The Art of Rube Goldberg was organized by Jennifer George, the granddaughter of Rube Goldberg, who lives in New York, and this exhibition makes its only California appearance at The Contemporary Jewish Museum. Accompanied by a delightful coffee-table style catalog including interactive cover, the exhibition includes original drawings of his beloved machines, photographs, toys, films, newspaper clippings, and more.
You think you know the story, or maybe you don’t. But Watergate was stranger, wilder, and more exciting than you can imagine. What did it feel like to live through the scandal that brought down a president?
People called her crazy, and to be fair she must have seemed crazy. But she was onto something. How Martha Mitchell tried to blow the whistle on Watergate—and ruined her life.
Spoil your mom this Mother's Day with several fun activities planned just for her and the family. You will also discover a variety of colorful and memorable events over Memorial Day weekend.
In addition, you can show off your favorite costume during the Bay to Breakers race, and savor a variety of dishes at the Taste of Potrero.
May 1st May Day
May 3rd Taste of Potrero
May the 4th Be With You - Star Wars Day
May 5th Cinco de Mayo Festival & Pub Crawl
May 7th How Weird Street Faire
May 8th National Teacher's Day
May 8th VE Day, WW II
May 12th Taiwanese American Cultural Festival
May 12 & 13 Teen Animation Festival International May 13th Mother's Day May 16th Ramadan begins
May 19th Armed Forces Day
May 19 & 20 Maker Faire Bay Area
May 20th Bay to Breakers Run
May 24th Victoria Day (Canada) - usually the 24th
May 24th to June 3rd SF International Arts Festival
May 26 & 27 Carnaval Celebration May 28th Memorial Day
The streets are alive again in 2018 with the San Francisco festivals and street fairs. Many of these SF events draw hundreds of people and are a tradition in many of these neighborhoods.
Entrance is free to many of them. At most festivals, you can walk the streets and enjoy live music, food and drinks. You can also visit booths with original art work, crafts, jewelry and more.
Hair serums have become an important ingredient in our arsenal of hair products and for very credible reasons. While we know that hair serums are extremely effective in tackling dry and fizzy hair, did you know that there are specific hair serums suited for different kind of hair, you can use them to prevent hair breakage and you can also make hair serums at home that can be highly beneficial for your hair.
Read on as we tell you how to pick the best serums for your hair and how you can make it the best multi-purpose product for your hair.
How to pick the right hair serum for your hair?
There are tonnes of hair serums available in the market. Hair serums add shine, reduces frizz and dryness and works best for long and medium hair length. Hair serums are basically silicone-based product that coats the surface of your hair and gives your hair softness and shine and prevents it from getting tangled.
Read the composition of the serum carefully
While it is true that silicon is the main ingredient in most hair serums, you need to pay attention to what are the other ingredients in your frizz fighter too. For instance if you have very dry and frizzy hair, you should opt for a hair serum that is infused with oils like castor, rosewood and marula that will provide intense hydration to your locks while adding that lustre and sheen.
Serums for different hair types
There are serums suited for specific hair types and purposes. Here’s your guideline to picking the right hair serum for your strands.
Serums suited for split-end rid hair
Split ends make our manes prone to breakage and frayed. If you have too many split ends, hair serum is a must to improve the appearance of your hair. But, make sure you pick hair serums that contain keratin as keratin is known to repair annoying split ends and prevent strands from splitting.
Serums suited to protect against heat and pollution
We live in hot and humid climates, and If you need to go out in the sun on regular basis, you need to take extra care of your strands. Pick hair serums that contain lavender and jojoba oils as these oils prime and nourish your hair along with adding the sheen. Lavender oil smoothens and detangles your hair and also protects against heat. Such serums are also extremely lightweight and absorbs into the hair quickly.
Serums for chronically dry hair
Excessively dry hair needs extra care and nutrition. Good news is that now there are serums available that can be applied overnight and kept that can revitalize your hair while you get your beauty sleep. Make sure thought that these serums are cream based and not oil based so that that they don’t weigh down your hair instead of moisturizing it. You can apply overnight serums to both damp and dry hair and wake up with nourished and shiny hair.
Serums for thick and textured hair
If you have thick and textured tresses you are going to need a hard working serum that will give your hair that extra hydration. Pick up serums infused with argan and Moroccan oils to tame your tresses and give it a healthy shine.
Serums for curly hair
Curls automatically tend to get more frizzy and difficult to manage. The best serums for wavy and curly hair are those that have intense moisturizing properties. You must have heard a hundred times that serums can work wonders on dull and lifeless tresses. Curly hair however needs a tad bit more attention. So to keep those curls bouncy and glossy and bring them back to life, pick serums laden with hydrating oils like jojoba, argan, sweet almond and marula.
Serums for coloured hair
For those of you who have coloured or chemically treated hair, there are lightweight cream based hair serums available in the market which besides silicone contain ingredients like jojoba, argan and coconut oil along with green tea extracts . These work perfectly for coloured and chemically processed hair.
Use and Purpose of Serum
The primary purpose of hair serum is to make your locks look shinier, less knotted and healthier. This happens as the serum absorbs and reflects light, it makes you hair look glossier, while also making a protective coat on the hair thus protecting your hair from dust, pollutants and ultra violet rays.
Most people use hair serum to revive damaged and brittle hair. Serum restores shine in dull and dry hair and prevents hair from getting tangled up.
While a lot of us see serums as that instant magical product that works as a pick-me-up for our tresses, it needs to be understood that serums serve multiple purposes and come in two distinct varieties. While our regular daily serum is best applied on damp or towel-dried hair, if you are using it specifically for styling purposes serum needs to be applied on dry hair.
We give you a low-down on the different kinds of hair serums and the steps to use them perfectly.
Always wash your hair prior to applying serum
The rule of thumb is to apply serum only on shampooed hair. Applying serum on unwashed hair will only weigh down the strands, make them appear thinner and oilier and attract more dust and grime znd even cause dandruff. Understand that serum is not just a styling product, it is a vitalizer and provides nourishment to your hair. But that can only happen when the serum is able to reach the roots and strands. Unwashed hair prevents that from happening.
Do not use excessive amounts of serum
Serums are primarily a concoction of water, essential oils and revitalizing chemicals. Applying too much of hit can make your hair greasy and unnecessarily heavily which basically cuts down the volume of your hair. For medium length hair, use 1-2 drops of serum and for longer hair, use 3-4 drops of serum.
How to use serum on wet hair
Squirt out a teardrop amount of serum on your palm. Now, gently blot the hair serum between your palms and massage it onto the partings and ends of the hair. Experts say serums work best on damp hair, remember damp not dripping wet. Flip your hair forwards and start applying hair serum in the vertical direction going from tips to roots. Make sure to massage the tips well to prevent occurrence of split ends. Now flip the hair back. Squirt two to three more drops of hair serum on your palms and now massage it onto your scalp. Let the serum settle down for a minute and then go on to dry or style your hair. The serum will act as a heat protectant, prevent the tangles that often crop up in wet hair and allow you to style your hair more efficiently. Also remember that blow drying your hair is absolutely essential when you apply as wet, serum treated scalp can cause dust and grime to stick to the scalp and that cannot mean good news.
How to use serum on dry hair
A lot of hair expert also use hair serum to help a hairstyle hold better as hair serums are a healthy alternative to hair mousse which tend to dry out the hair and weaken them. Take 3-4 drops of serum on the palm of your hand. Now start applying serum to the back of your hair first and then come to the front and midsection of the hair so that too much serum does not ruin your hairstyle. If after application you feel that your tresses are still looking dull and lifeless, take a drop or two more of serum and apply it to the sides and front of your hair. Your hair will radiate shine and have a healthy appearance to them. Be very very careful not to go overboard with serum too, as that can lead to your tresses look limp rather than lustrous.
In hair serums the right product and quality matters
When it comes to picking up the right serum, you may need to do a little trial and error before you figure out a serum that works perfectly on your hair. Keep the above mentioned composition guidelines in mind when choosing the right serum for your hair type. Always opt for a good brand when it comes to serums even if they are a little expensive to get the desired results for your hair.
Once you have figured out which hair serum works best for you, consider investing in complementary hair products like shampoo and conditioner too to derive a hair care routine that works best for your hair.
Home-made serums
If you are having problems identifying and finding the best hair serum for your hair type, you will be happy to know that you can make some very effective hair serums at home too.
Lemon and coconut oil serum for oily hair
Oils like lemon oil, coconut oil, peppermint oil and jojoba oil are lighter and are a perfect hair serum base for those with oily hair. These oils help to curb the production of the sebaceous gland which produces sebum which in turn cause the excessive oiliness and greasiness in the hair.
To make the serum, mix few drops of any jojoba or peppermint oil with 100 ml of lemon or coconut oil.
Now shake the mixture well and store it in a bottle where it won’t be exposed to too much of sunlight. You can also choose to store the mixture in an opaque bottle.
Use this home made serum during the day to tame those stubborn fly-aways or use it at night before going to bed to nourish your hair and scalp and help retain its moisture.
Castor oil hair serum for dry hair
Castor oil is one of the richest hair oils, which also makes it one of the finest moisturizing agents for your scalp and hair. Dry hair often leads to split ends which eventually result in breaking of strands and hair loss. This home made serum will help you tackle dry hair and restore moisture and sheen back to your hair.
Take 100 ml of castor oil and mix it with rosewood or lavender oil which complement the properties of castor oil.
Shake well and store it an airtight bottle.
In case you feel the consistency of the serum to be too dense and heavy add a few drops of coconut oil to lighten the consistency.
Massage it onto your scalp and leave it overnight to get beautiful and lustrous locks without split ends and dryness. You can also apply it twice or thrice in a week post a shower on damp hair before blow-drying or using a straightening rod or curling iron as this serum will also provide heat protection to your mane.
Aloe vera gel and lavender oil serum for brittle hair
Lavender oil is a miracle remedy for brittle hair. The concoction of lavender oil and aloe vera gel not only helps to restore health back in damaged hair but also promotes hair growth.
Pour a cup of water in a pan and bring it pot boil.
Add a tablespoon each of dried fenugreek and fresh basil leaves to the boiling water. Both these herbs are extremely easy to source.
Let the mixture simmer on low heat for another 15 minutes.
Strain out the concoction and then let it cool down.
Once cooled, add it to the aloe vera gel and mix.
Now mix this with 100 ml of lavender oil.
Shake well and store in an airtight bottle.
Apply this serum every alternate day on damp hair or just before hitting the bed to make brittle hair stronger, well-nourished and curb hairfall.
Avocado oil hair serum for shiny hair
Like your mane shiny and silky? We give you the perfect formulae.
Take 4 tablespoons of avocado oil and 2 tablespoons of almond oil, argan oil , grapeseed oil and jojoba oil. Jojoba oil is added to a lot of serums as it helps to get the perfect consistency.
Mix all of these oils in a vessel, pour into a dark glass or opaque bottle which will prevent the concentration from directly being exposed to the sunlight.
Shake well and store
The concentration will work like magic on your tresses and is lightweight enough to be used during daytime as well.
An extra boost of protein is usually a good thing, but there are only so many eggs a person can eat in the morning. A shake or bar packed with protein powderseems like a natural solution, but the options in the supplement section can be a little chemical-laden. Plus, since most protein powders are sold in massive containers, you may just be out the money if you don’t like the flavor you bought.
Plan B: DIY protein powder. Whether you’re looking for a whey-based protein powder, a gluten-free one, or a completely plant-based vegan situation, here's how it’s done.
Start with a protein base.
Classic protein powders are made with dairy, so if you’re looking for something like that, dry milk or whey is the answer.
For plant-based protein, you can also use whole nuts or seeds, like almonds, sunflower seeds, or hemp hearts. Protein rich flours like quinoa, chickpea, or yellow pea are also a great option.
Scoop about ½ cup of whichever interests you into a blender or food processor, and feel free to mix a few different options.
Next, pour ½ cup oats into the blender or food processor. Not only will oats help thicken a smoothie, they’re backed with fiber and carbs that will keep you full for longer than a simple smoothie of ice and fruit.
For an extra nutritional boost of fiber, add ⅓ cup chia seeds, ground flaxseed, wheat germ, or hemp hearts if you didn’t use them earlier.
Finally, flavor.
For chocolate protein powder, toss in 2 tablespoons cocoa (or cacao, or carob) powder.
For vanilla, use the scrapings of ¼ of a vanilla bean or ½ teaspoon vanilla powder.
‘Mourning culture’
Combing through the intricacies of hair art
By SARA ARTHURS
At first, Lindsey Demaree and Milena Velez thought making art out of human hair seemed gross. Now, they see it as beautiful.
The two University of Findlay students, pursuing master’s degrees in rhetoric and writing, gave a presentation on Victorian hair art earlier this month at the Hancock Historical Museum. They were required to research an artifact in the museum for their class — and they knew what they wanted to do when they came across a wreath at the museum. Curator Joy Bennett nonchalantly told them it was actually a wreath of human hair, “and she just went walking, as you do,” Velez said.
But Velez’ and Demaree’s interest was piqued. The students were fascinated by the wreath, and examined the different designs and shapes in it.
They learned the museum has more hair art in its collections. Demaree said they were taken aback to learn “that there’s boxes of hair just hiding in an attic.”
Velez said they started reaching out to donors of the art. In the meantime, Bennett found another wreath of hair. They tracked down the person who had donated this second wreath to the museum after purchasing it at a sale — out of interest, not in the art itself, but in the thick walnut frame.
Velez said the last artifact found was “a box of hair daisies,” six flowers made from the hair of two people. A note accompanying the donation stated that the four large daisies were the writer’s hair, and the two smaller ones from “Sidney’s.” “It was cut before he was sick,” said the note, signed, “Auntie.”
A sick family member would give a lock of hair to relatives as “a way to keep a physical piece of a loved one,” Demaree said.
‘Mourning culture’
Velez said hair art originated in the 12th or 13th century but was made more popular by Queen Victoria. After Prince Albert’s death, she spent 40 years in deep mourning, wearing nothing but black, a locket of his hair around her neck. “Mourning culture” was big in those days, Velez said. If someone died, their body would be kept in the house for days. (In fact, she said, the ritual of bringing flowers to funerals grew out of a trend to bring flowers into the home to mask the smell.) It was also common to prop up the dead body to take a photograph, known as “memento mori.” Photography was expensive, and rare. But to preserve the memory, the deceased person would be posed with the family as if he or she was alive. (Velez does not recommend Googling this late at night.)
Hair art, however, wasn’t just made from the sick or dead. Giving hair, perhaps in a locket or watch chain, was as common as giving a bouquet of flowers, Velez said.
Photography was fairly new at this time, and was often seen as just a person’s appearance, not their essence. So someone might send a lock of hair along with a photograph of themselves, to make the correspondence more personal. Demaree said hair art was thought to preserve the self in an authentic way. If she were to give some of her hair, “You know it’s me,” she said.
Velez said hair was also a “renewable resource” and could be given freely to anyone. And, Demaree said, it didn’t decompose, and was easy to collect and preserve. And yes, artists would clean it before weaving the hair into a design.
Demaree said people back then had hair pots, used to collect what fell out as they brushed their hair. The artist could cut off an entire ponytail, or use just a few strands. Even a small piece just a couple of inches long could be used in art, Demaree said.
Demaree said hair art was made by both professionals and amateurs. People could make their own hair art at home, but the upper middle class would also send hair to professionals to be made into art. Some created elaborate scenes, shaping trees, birds and other items out of hair.
A ‘heady’ discovery
Leila Cohoon is owner of Leila’s Hair Museum in Independence, Missouri. The museum collection, which has drawn visitors from as far as France, includes 750 hair wreaths and about 2,000 pieces of jewelry made from human hair.
Now 86, Cohoon has spent more than six decades learning about the art of human hair. In 1956, then the owner of a beauty salon in Independence, she “went down on the plaza to buy my Easter shoes.” There she saw an arrangement of hair, about 5 inches square, in an antique store window. “I bought that that year instead of my Easter shoes. … That’s what started the whole thing,” Cohoon said.
That first piece was made from light-colored hair adorned with black beads, which she later learned signified that the hair was from someone who had died. Cohoon started researching, and decided she was going to learn how to make hair art. “I thought I could buy a book” but there weren’t any, she said. So she taught herself.
She has since written her own book, which depicts 36 different hair art techniques. Cohoon can teach 32 of them. She has taught 39 Americans to make hair art, along with one student who came from London to learn. She’s taught her daughter and daughter-in-law to make hair art, adding, “My grandkids, they all know how to do it.”
Cohoon also taught a class in China. Embroidery with hair has been done in China, but the people she taught were unfamiliar with hair wreaths. Hair art comes from all over the world, though, and Cohoon has pieces in her museum from many countries.
Today, hair art can be purchased on eBay. At the time she spoke to The Courier, Cohoon said, there were over 25 pieces available for sale on eBay (several of which, she said, were overpriced).
Cohoon’s museum has nine wreaths made from just one person’s hair. The rest are genealogy — meaning each member of a family contributed a length of hair.
“Before the camera was invented,” that’s how you’d document a family, she said.
Cohoon also has a “friendship wreath,” which she suspects came from a community group, possibly a church group. Here, too, each member of the group contributed a length of hair to the project.
“This art form almost died out,” Cohoon said, adding she has just three pieces dated after 1900. She said it’s a myth that it was solely a Victorian art. In fact, it dates back centuries before.
One piece in her museum includes Cohoon’s own hair. She embellished a pin that was in her possession, adding her own hair to it.
She is now working on her second book, featuring antique pictures of people wearing jewelry made from hair. She has two more books planned, including one that will depict children who are making hair wreaths. Many years ago, 9-year-old children would make hair art, she said. (“They didn’t play Pokemon in those days,” Cohoon said.) And, she said, in Sweden today, sixth-graders are taught how to make hair art. Cohoon’s fourth book will show photographs of hair wreaths from her museum, examining genealogy through hair art.
Along with art and history, she has learned science, like how diet affects your hair, and what happens to make hair turn gray with age. She said she’s still as interested as the day she started learning about hair art. And no, she said, she never gets the comment that hair art is gross.
“It’s what they did before the camera was invented” and what’s gross about that?, she said.
Modern-day versions
Velez said hair art was created “for love and out of love,” adding the more she learns about it, the more “I no longer see it as repulsive or gross.”
Velez has a friend who saved hair for a bracelet from a horse that had to be put down, and she herself has thought of making art from her own daughter’s hair.
Demaree asked if there were any moms in the audience who kept a lock of their baby’s hair at the first haircut. Did you do anything with it? No? Velez asked. “We have some ideas for you.”
A hair wreath is on display at the Hancock Historical Museum. The other wreath, and smaller pieces like hair daisies, are in the collections but are not on display. If you’re looking to make a hair art tour of northwestern Ohio, pieces can also be found at museums in Wyandot, Hardin and Allen counties.
Variations in single nucleotides, the building blocks of DNA, were found to be responsible for about 35% of red hair, 25% of blond hair, and 26% of black hair heritability in the group of people studied. The study findings also provide insights into disease and sex-specific pigmentation.
“These extra 100 or so genes allow us to understand the role of pigment in many diseases, such as cancer and autoimmune diseases,” says genetic epidemiologist, Timothy Spector, of King’s College London, who co-led the study.
Over 100 genes that determine hair colour identified
The discovery sheds new light on our understanding of the genetic complexity underpinning variations in human pigmentation, and could advance our knowledge of conditions linked to pigmentation, such as skin, testicular, prostate and ovarian cancers. The findings, published in the journal Nature Genetics, are also relevant for forensic sciences.
Hair products used by Black women contain dozens of hazardous chemicals
“Chemicals in hair products, and beauty products in general, are mostly untested and largely unregulated,” says lead author Jessica Helm, PhD, a scientist at Silent Spring. “This study is a first step toward uncovering what harmful substances are in products frequently used by Black women, so we can better understand what’s driving some of the health issues they’re facing.”
Melanin Under Attack:
Study Shows How Toxic Hair Products Are To Black Women
Studies have blown the lid wide open on the toxic chemicals in those products and linked them with illnesses. However, one new Silent Spring Institute Study is the first to measure how much of those chemicals are present in Black hair care products.
Technology is constantly pushing forward new ways to interact and interface with computers. But what if the next technological innovation could actually be worn on your head?
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