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HELLO, my name is Mud!


Здраво! (Z-Drah-voh) - Hello!

I kid you not, in Macedonian my name translates into the word for mud. From here, there is nowhere to go but up. That is also a good frame of reference for my still dormant language acquisition talents.  леле! ("lay-lay" meaning "Oh my!")

Of the many challenges of living and working in Macedonia, learning to read, speak and understand Macedonian is easily the most difficult. Starting with the alphabet, it's Cyrillic so:

A = А
Б = B
Ц = TS (as in caTS)
Д = D
С = S
В = V
З = Z

and so on!

Got it? Me neither! Actually, I do have the alphabet and sounds pretty well down and, thankfully, the numbers are the same if you ignore that 3 is both a letter and a number!

The Peace Corps approach to language instruction is a "deep end of the pool" toss.  In the very first week of pre-training, we received daily language lessons.  Then, for nearly the entire three month training period, we had 5-6 hours of classroom instruction and 2-3 hours of homework every weekday.  It was pretty intense but it gave all of the volunteers a running start at understanding, speaking and reading Macedonian.  The goal is to be able to communicate and I've found that a combination of Macedonian, English, arm waving, a sense of humor and smiling goes a long way.  As in other countries, native speakers appreciate our sincere attempts to tackle their language.  For perspective, the Foreign Services Institute provides a good graphic showing the degree of difficulty for various languages. It indicates that Macedonian is a Category IV "more difficult" language requiring 44 weeks of study to reach speaking and reading proficiency. 

On the weather front, we've experienced a dramatic shift in seasons. Not long ago, we bundled up in many layers to go outside and, at night, we hunkered under a pile of blankets. Now the daily temperature climbs to the high 70ºs and even into the 80ºs.  There is still time for one or two more chilly days but the promise of triple-digit summer days looms larger every day.

As you'll seen in photos below, I took a few days break to make a first-time visit to Greece. It's beautiful there, full of fascinating history, delicious food and very friendly people. It was good to have a bit of down-time for relaxing and recharging my batteries.

In my work, we have begun an outreach initiative where we are visiting neighborhoods where there are high concentrations of Roma families. We provide them with information about how to get proper identification documents and social assistance.  As you'll see in the photos below, the conditions that many families live in can be quite dire. The improvised houses are nearly identical to the  ones I saw in impoverished Tijuana, Mexico neighborhoods previously. Though their lives are difficult, you can see the pride they have in their children and in their humble homes. It's hard not to think about how different their lives might be were they born into different circumstances and didn't have to fight both poverty and discrimination.  As I'm sure you already do, count your lucky stars.

I hope this note finds you in good health and enjoying nature's fresh coat of spring.  

Peace,

Cal


 
Just one of the spectacular territorial views that rewards hikers in Macedonia.
One of my fellow hikers takes a break and shows me the fistful of Mountain Tea he's picked along the trail.  Before being used to make an herbal tea, the flowers and stems are dried.
Monastery of St Archangel Michael and St Hermit Gabriel of Lesnovo
Fellow Peace Corps volunteer Lauren happily models the headscarf required for our visit to the monastery.
Beautiful Easter flower arrangement inside the monastery's chapel.
(L) Think of the thousands who have used this passageway over the past 500 years.
 
(R) Detail from carved wooden door at the entrance to the chapel.
Dr. Jody Olsen visited us on the 10th day of her new job as Director of United States Peace Corps. My fellow volunteer, Nick, gave Jody spectacular fresh irises.
(L) Roma boys playing by the side of the dirt road near their home. 

(R) Satellite dishes are attached to all but the most primitive dwellings. Often you'll see a satellite dish atop a pit latrine, an unexpected  juxtaposition of technologies.
Laundry day at a Roma home in the foothills of Stip.
Young Roma musicians show their chops playing their traditional music. Click/Tap the photo to watch a short video of their performance.
A universal truth, kids + wheels = fun!
At last, fresh growth on the grape vines that grace almost every home and thousands of acres of agricultural land. Grapes are eaten fresh and are used for making Macedonia's world class wines and brandy.










A recent Saturday morning provided local students with the opportunity to compete in our region's English language Spelling Bee.  The national competition will be next weekend in Skopje.
A gaggle of fourth-graders are all smiles after participating in our STEM project activity.  Each team of two students created protective packaging for a raw egg which was then subject to an eight foot drop-test onto cement. Three of seven eggs survived the fall.
Images from a brief visit to Thessaloniki Greece
Above and below, outstanding produce is everywhere in Thessaloniki's vast labyrinthian public marketplace. 
A sidewalk merchant offers his herbal teas to passers by.
At the Thessaloniki Archeological Museum this large stone tablet is a bill of sale for a female slave.  Titos, son of Lykos, buys from Amphotera a two-months old slave girl. The girl's name is Nike. The price is set at 15 silver piees.  3rd century A.D.
Street scenes from Thessaloniki, Greece.

(L) A dapper gentleman waits to cross the street as pedestrians in the background enjoy the weather and traffic-free boardwalk that extends along the city's waterfront.

(R) Arm in arm two friends navigate the hilly cobblestone streets.
Sunset view from high above Thessaloniki on top of a remaining portion of the stone wall that used to protect the city from invaders.
The glossy product-filled hair of a competitive ballroom dancer at Thessaloniki Dance Festival. Dancers from around the region gathered to show off their ballroom, traditional and hip-hop dance skills.

More Photos? 
I have several online albums which are open to public viewing. I add photos frequently so you can check back between letters if you'd like to see what's up:
Album Links:

 

P.S. Do you want to see more about Peace Corps Macedonia activities?  View the Facebook page here...and "like" it to stay up-to-date.  

FAQ: To address your good inquiries, I have a "Frequently Asked Questions" page which you may view here: tinyurl.com/PeacedoniaFAQ  Submit your questions and I will answer them or I will avoid answering them in a way that will make you wish you hadn't asked.

To learn more about the Peace Corps volunteer service opportunity  see www.peacecorps.gov

P.P.S. If this email was forwarded to you, you may join my email list here: tinyurl.com/PeacetopiaR1

PEACE CORPS DISCLAIMER: The content of this communication is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Government, the Peace Corps, or the government of the Republic of Macedonia.
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