Bonjour tout le monde !
Hello everyone!
Newsletter #13
I'd like to share an expression with you that's slipped into conversations with friends in our village, which perfectly sums up one aspect of Jouques that we all agree on, that it's "far enough from everything, yet close enough to everything".
This states in a nutshell that we can enjoy village life in the countryside, yet be in Aix-en-Provence in 30 minutes, drive to see beautiful landscapes, choose from a variety of vineyards and markets, or visit nearby villages and attractions that may or may not be full of tourists. Whatever we feel like doing we are well located to choose what kind of day-trip or half-day outing we'd like.
For our guests, that means a great variety of experiences that are within 60 minutes from our door, yet with Jouques as the peaceful setting they can return to at the end of a busy day.
With that in mind, for this newsletter I've created a new section highlighting our favourite day-trips that are a full, but wonderful day out - all about an hour or less by car from Jouques.
As we've all had to curtail our travel plans for 2020 it might be the perfect time to start planning an even bigger adventure for next year! I'm sure you'll agree!
Garder le moral ! (Keep your spirits up!)
Fiona + Jean-Louis
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When in Provence... day-trip No.1
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(above) The wonderful view from the bridge, where the Verdon river meets the lake of Sainte Croix.
One of our absolute favourite day outings is east into the neighbouring departments of 'Var' and 'Alpes de Haute Provence', to see the gorges of the Verdon River and some pretty villages. The itinerary can be adjusted to suit families with children, adventurers, or couples who want to experience everything along the way.
We recommend an early start and head first to the beautiful village of Moustier Sainte Marie, which is famous for pottery and especially 'faience' - the art of painting onto glazed earthen ware.
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This is a lovely village to explore on foot with plenty of artisanal shops offering high quality pottery, jewellery and much more.
You can walk up 262 steps to the 12th C chapel of Notre Dame de Beauvoir (you need comfy shoes!) for a fantastic view over the village.
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A waterfall seeps out of the hillside and courses through the ravine that divides the town. If you have time it is worth visiting the faience museum to see the collection of painted earthen ware from the 17th C to more recent works by current crafts-people.
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Additionally the main square and its church are lovely - another spot offering great views across, up and down all aspects of the village!
There are also many cafés and restaurants in Moustiers to find a scrumptious lunch - alternatively you could pack a picnic and head to nearby Lac de Sainte Croix.
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There's plenty of parking and space to put down your rug or picnic table, plus fabulous turquoise coloured water for swimming, or you could hire a kayak or paddle boat. I suggest you take along some plastic sandals, old sneakers or thongs as the beach is mostly pebbles and hard on soft feet!
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(below) One of the many magnificent views down into the 'Gorges du Verdon'.
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Ensure you leave at least 90 minutes to see the gorges! We recommend you drive the southern route after crossing the bridge (stop for photos on the bridge, see the first photo), for the most picturesque perspective. The first half is the best, so we suggest you return the same way.
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You'll see not only dramatic views of the rugged gorges with the river far below, but you may also spot eagles soaring in this area. There are several terrific vantage points to stop at along the road, some with excellent recently constructed viewing platforms.
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For the adventurers among you there are a host of active pursuits in and around the gorges of the Verdon river. I was lucky enough to go para-gliding there a few years ago one June - I can honestly say it was perhaps the most exhilarating adventure experience ever! That was a tandem situation with the instructor which was great for me - you can also find companies for para-gliding school, guided hikes and rock-climbing - make sure you book in advance. Here's a link to the one we used.
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ITINERARY:
1. Moutiers-Sainte-Marie
2. Lac-de-Sainte-Croix
3. Gorges du Verdon
OPTIONS:
Lunch at Moustieres OR picnic at Lac-de-Sainte-Croix.
Swim and/or paddle at the lake.
Tour of the gorges - drive half way around, return via the same route.
Visit to l'Occitane-en-Provence - shop + museum (factory tour).
Stop for local produce at stores near Manosque.
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L'OCCITANE-EN-PROVENCE
Time permitting, you might like to make a stop just outside the town of Manosque, to visit the factory of 'l'Occitane en Provence', a world reknown skin care company based right here, just 40 minutes from Jouques. The factory tour is definitely worthwhile, and is offered in english most mornings - bookings are required
Four images courtesy of l'Occitane-en-Provence
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The tour lasts an hour then you can shop in the adjacent boutique - additionally there is an aromatic garden and an interesting museum to explore, illustrating the history of the company, where and how the ingredients are sourced, information about the history of soap-making in Provence as well as the sustainable elements of the products. Most of the ingredients are sourced locally including LAVANDIN from Jouques! This is a hybrid of lavender which grows at 400-600m, which is used in room sprays, hand-cleansers, disinfectants, aroma-therapy and medical grade products.
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Fiona's original images - On one of our many day-trips to see the Gorges du Verdon, we stopped at a very small village along the way, called 'Allemagne-en-Provence' (literally: Germany in Provence) to have a look at the chateau there - which is almost a large as the village! We were disappointed to find that the chateau is privately owned and was closed to public visits, so we weren't able to look beyond the walls. However, I did admire this view from the little bridge over what must once have been a moat, to the village houses beyond.
Wherever you go in France, there is history - I'd love to know the story of this place - about the chateau and why the name: 'Germany in Provence'?
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I happen to be writing this on ANZAC DAY, 25 April, so I thought it appropriate to include an image of poppies, of which there are many in and around Jouques!
Seeing poppies does always remind me that the flowers are symbolic of our fallen soldiers and, though Provence, unlike 'the Somme', didn't see the terrors of WW1, it certainly puts on a great show of poppies!
The blooms are just starting to make an appearance around Jouques - this photo is looking toward the old bridge that is the main entry point from Aix-en-Provence, over the Rèal river which runs through the village. All the land along the river-edge was once cultivated, but now it is left quite wild. All the better for more beautiful poppies to grow!
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THE MUSE - Montagne Sainte Victoire
by Jean-Louis Diaz
Jouques lies within an area called ‘le grand site Sainte Victoire’, one of France’s many great natural geographic sites and, just south of our village, is the iconic name-sake ‘la Montagne Sainte Victoria’, not so much a mountain more an immense 18 km limestone ridge that dominates the landscape of Aix-en-Provence.
(below) Montagne Sainte Victoire in the landscape of Aix - image: Denise M Taylor.
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Numerous artists have been inspired by this natural colossus, as was, famously, Paul Cezanne, an Aix native who painted over 60 versions of his muse. His paintings proved to be the catalyst for the birth of cubism, as expounded by Picasso and Braque.
(above) images 1: Alamy stock photo, 2: Wikimedia Commons.
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In turn Pablo Picasso, in homage to his friend Cezanne, lived in the foothills of Sainte Victoire, in the Chateau of Vauvenargues, from 1959 to 1962. He is buried in the grounds of the estate which is 20 minutes by car from Jouques.
(below) image: reflextomatix.
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La Sainte Victoire continues to inspire artists today, one is my friend Diana Howard who is based in Aix-en-Provence. I have included her painting ‘Storm, Sainte Victoire’. You can view more of her artwork on her website.
(above) 'Storm, Sainte Victoire' by Diana Howard, image courtesy of the artist.
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A 'Grand site de France' is protected by the French state in recognition of management that applies principles of sustainable development.
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INTRODUCING: the distillery
Just a 15 minute walk from our house is the local distillery: 'Le Moulin Saint Vincent'. The owners harvest locally grown LAVANDIN in July, then distill the oil in this facility. At other times of year they press olives for local growers, and distill thyme and rosemary oils. There is also a boutique where they sell the olive oil, essential oils, plus other local farm and cosmetic products.
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PLEASE SHARE THIS NEWSLETTER:
if you know anyone who's planning to travel to France, please tell them about our accommodation and workshops. Thanks!
All photos and words by Fiona Diaz unless credited otherwise.
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