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Happy fall!

"The Toughest Job You’ll Ever Love" is a tagline often included in Peace Corps recruiting appeals. While that is approximately correct, it doesn't begin to explain what the job of a Volunteer is.   In this edition, I will try to nail that Jell-O™ to the wall.

Before that, it's time for some news!  I have been selected to extend my Peace Corps service for an additional year. That means that my planned departure will move from December 2019 to December 2020. I'm very excited for the opportunity to build upon the work done this far and to take on more of a leadership role with fellow volunteers and staff.  Though my exact scope of work is still evolving, I do know that I will be expanding Peace Corps partnerships (including with Rotary) and mentoring fellow Volunteers.   Included in this extension is a vacation back in the U.S. where I look forward to catching up with family and friends as well as sharing a bit of my experiences thus far. 

An update from the previous edition: 

My last edition's theme was "Visit Macedonia".  A number of you have asked for suggestions and you have shared developing plans. I didn't address it so here's my timing addendum:

  • Winter is cold, mostly brown and sometimes very cold. And sometimes so very cold.
  • Spring is wonderful but it can be rainy and it can be, as Dickens described March days; "when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold. When it is summer in the light and winter in the shade."
  • Summer is hot and somewhat muggy. It's not New York "stinkin' hot" but it's a reasonable facsimile thereof.
  • Fall, like spring, is mostly lovely weather and beautiful. 


A few months ago, the NY Times published this article "Be Among the First to Visit North Macedonia" which may be the beginning of a wave of tourism coming here. My advice is to visit before the country loses its quirky charm.

Thanks for reading and do let me know if you have questions or suggestions.

Ciao for niao!

Cal


 
Dairy farmers ease their cows home along the Bregalnica River.
Day in the Life
From my most frequently asked questions list (FAQ): What are you really doing and what do you do on a typical day.

During Peace Corps training, we were repeatedly told that our days will vary and that we would need to adapt to the circumstances as they are. That has turned out to be sage advice. Each day really is different and, often, my carefully planned to-do list ends without one intended accomplishment accomplished while several valuable and unplanned accomplishments will be achieved. After a while, one learns to "go with the flow" and let Macedonian serendipity happen.

What do you actually do for work? 
My primary assignment is at ZPR (Association for Human Rights Protection of Roma - Stip). My role there is as a organizational advisor.  As a non-profit law clinic offering free legal advice and counsel to Roma individuals and families, there is always a steady stream of clients and little time to think about the big picture.  I'm able to provide that outside perspective which has allowed us to start collecting and evaluating client data, to build the organization's network and public perception, to consider alternative business models and to look ahead at the challenges and opportunities that are coming in future years.  As ZPR charges no fees,  it is dependent upon grants and donations. I help review grant calls for relevance and assist in the wordsmithing grant applications. Shenaj and Josif, my Director and my Counterpart, are incredibly supportive and appreciative of my contributions. Through thick and thin, the office is suffused with their love of the work and their dedication to their Roma community. Their commitment and good humor has made my time here much easier and richly rewarding. 

Besides their primary assignment, all Volunteers are expected to create their own side projects. These can be local, regional or even national in scope. So here is a bit about my side projects.

There is a local American Corner library (an American Embassy initiative) where I teach English, share technology skills and help to promote the library's presence in the community.

It will be no surprise to many of you that I work with local youth on community service projects. Mentoring them is a joy and every day I am inspired by their aspirations for a better world. Among other activities, I helped organize and interview 35 high school students for an youth leadership camp. In the interviews it's fascinating to hear these young applicants' perspective on the world and to see their genuine desire to improve the world.

It was my very good fortune to find that Rotary International has a presence here. In North Macedonia, there are twenty Rotary clubs and approximately 500 Rotarians. When I arrived there was an existing international headquarters partnership agreement between Rotary and Peace Corps but on the ground, there was only sporadic activity and results.  I saw an opportunity to work as a liaison to facilitate more activity between the two organizations.  The relationship is now growing, increased collaboration is happening and mutual benefits are starting to be realized. The hope is to build towards self-sustaining momentum.  Attending the June Rotary's annual convention in Hamburg, Germany. it was good to find that there is a lot of interest in the partnership success here. With hard work and a little luck North Macedonia's example can be the start of something big. 

What do you on a typical day? Part of the continuing appeal of Peace Corps work is the ambiguity and variation of demands that present themselves. There are no typical days so here's one day that includes the kind of variety that keeps things interesting:

Thursday, June 13:

7 am: Make breakfast and get organized for the day . Temperature: 75º

9 am: Coffee meeting with the president of Rotary Club - Stip to discuss next steps on a project that is refurbishing music practice rooms at a local school. (Huge thanks to Rotary Clubs of Oakland and La Jolla for their support!) Temperature: 80º

10 am: Walk to ZPR office to review a grant application's project description, activities and budget. Evaluate and recommend not to pursue yet another poor match grant call. To save money, the air conditioning is off but the thick cinder block walls keep the room reasonably comfortable in the mornings.

3 pm Catch bus for a sweltering 30-minute ride to the very small town of Cheshinovo. Temperature: 90º

3:30 pm Greeted at Cheshinovo by fellow Volunteer Feruza who walks me along vibrant green rice fields to an even smaller village. This is where she lives and teaches English at the community's only school. We cool down a little with a drink of cold water. Her host family has beautiful gardens with lush flowers and impressively productive vegetable crops. Temperature: Too hot.

4:30 pm Feruza and I walk back to the bus stop to meet Dave and Susan, two more fellow Volunteers.  We take a roundabout tour back to Ferusa's home where her host family provides us with cool drinks and nice snacks.
Note: Having no sanctions in place, you can purchase Iranian dates in North Macedonia markets. Said dates are delicious to eat and, at $2.50 for a 24 oz. box, a good bargain.

5:30 pm We attend a fun event called the "Stork Festival" where the ubiquitous white stork (Ciconia Ciconia) annual hatch is celebrated. Local buildings and the tops of telephone poles have strong metal frames that support the storks' large nests.  Local children adorably dressed as storks dance to traditional songs and, inexplicably, to the latest American pop tunes.  After singing and dancing end, food and local merchandise is sold off tables while percussionists bang out traditional ditties that thrum along with no definitive beginning or end. Temperature: It doesn't matter anymore! 

6:30 pm  The four of us dash back to the bus stop to hail the next bus for a ride back to the city of Stip where I reside. Temperature: Air Conditioning? What's that?

7:30 pm : We have a relaxed and fun dinner in air conditioned comfort at one of Stip's nicest local restaurants called, if you will excuse me, Local. 

9:30 pm: Back to reality. Dave, Susan and Feruza head home while I retire to my apt. I catch up on email, edit some photos and eventually pile into bed. 

11:30 pm:  ZZZZzzz, tomorrow is another day!
 
A client's son tackles the wooden numbers puzzle we provide for a little early learning. Too many Roma children are not receiving education which makes it much harder for them to achieve a good life.
Peace Corps Volunteer Feruza from Seattle, WA shows her primary school students a fun game to help learn English.  Almost half of the volunteers here in North Macedonia are teaching English in the public schools. They also train local teachers in the latest methods and best practices.



This clever fellow helped entertain attendees at a recent Autism Awareness event in Skopje.  There is active progress being made to include special need students in the general population of public schools. Currently there are ten Peace Corps Volunteers here who share their expertise in Special Needs education.
Food Glorious Food!
All spring and summer,  the produce markets have been full of a wide variety of tasty fruits and vegetables. These pears were the size of a large fig but they were sweet, flavorful and juicy.  

Pictured below are grapes being harvested for making homemade wine and brandy (rakija) that is ubiquitous here.  If you haven't already seen it, you can view my "Making Rakija" video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=de6J0bqaMJs
Community Service
My talented co-teacher Dejana (green t-shirt) looks on as two of our Beginning English learners tackle Maurice Sendak's classic children's storybook, 'Where the Wild Things Are" Classes are held at our local American Corner library.
GLOW & YMLP Club - Stip is for service-oriented high school students in the local area. Here a group gathers in last winter's snow to make fun photos to promote the club and to encourage their peers to apply for a youth camp.  Community service and leadership development are becoming an important part of the social fabric here.
At our local American Corner library, site coordinator Marija helps young girls develop their interest in science and technology. On this day they were experimenting with an electronic projects kit. 
Culture, travel and fun!
A recent jaunt to Tirana, Albania provided me with this special sight. A young girl practicing her traditional dance moves to the steady beat of the accompanying drum.
(Top) Flowing straw sculpture at the Macedonian Contemporary Art Museum, Skopje
(L) A fun 40km ride to the town of Sveti Nicole provided a good workout and a chance to meet up with friends living there.
(R) Enjoying a local Stork Festival with fellow Peace Corps Volunteers
Young participants at one of our summer Travel Camps enjoyed the fun of having their faces painted. This year Peace Corps Volunteers held 50 camps around the country to provide summertime educational fun to hundreds of vacationing children and to give leadership opportunities to teenage volunteers.
A group of Peace Corps Volunteers (me third from right) took a break from our Close of Service Conference in the idyllic resort setting of Berovo.  Located at the far eastern border near Bulgaria, this cool mountainous area provided a very nice break from the hot summer weather. 
The last word goes to this lovely woman who always has a cheerful smile, twinkling eyes and a драво (hello!) for each passerby.

More Photos? 
I have several online albums which are open to public viewing. I add photos frequently so you can check back between letters if you'd like to see what's up:
Album Links:

Faces of Macedonia

Best of Macedonia

Marketing & Merchandising

Public Art, Architecture & Infrastructure

Food Glorious Food


Instagram (Here you will find various images from Macedonia and beyond. I post here every week or two so it's a good way to keep up with what's happening here.)


 

P.S. Do you want to see more about Peace Corps Macedonia activities?  View the Facebook page here...and "like" it to stay up-to-date.  

FAQ: To address your good inquiries, I have a "Frequently Asked Questions" page which you may view here: tinyurl.com/PeacedoniaFAQ  Submit your questions and I will answer them or I will avoid answering them in a way that will make you wish you hadn't asked.

To learn more about the Peace Corps volunteer service opportunity  see www.peacecorps.gov

P.P.S. If this email was forwarded to you, you may join my email list here: tinyurl.com/PeacetopiaR1

PEACE CORPS DISCLAIMER: The content of this communication is mine alone and does not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Government, the Peace Corps, or the government of the Republic of Macedonia.
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