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150ish is a free weekly newsletter that brings you all the dish on local food artisans working within 150 miles–more or less–of New York City.

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Are you craving some Halloween candy about now?

Candy corn lovers, you’re not alone.

October 31, 2019 | Photo Jelly Belly Candy Co.

Halloween holds a special place in the hearts of 150ish. Francesca won first place at her Rhode Island School of Design Halloween Ball. She and her friends dressed as a bunch of asparagus. Huddled in a group with a band to hold them together, they paraded up and down the streets of Providence to trick or treat. These days, the favorite part of All Hallows Eve is the loot that’s left in the bowl when all the kids have gone home–the candy!
 
Here’s the dish: If you’ve ever argued that no one actually likes candy corn, you’re probably not from Alabama, Iowa, Idaho, Michigan, New Mexico, Nevada, or Rhode Island. The controversial confection is a favorite treat among residents in those states, according to sales data from online candy retailer CandyStore.com.
 
Elizabeth Scherle, co-founder and president of Influenster, said, "It’s such a divisive candy that many people love to love or love to hate during trick-or-treat season—I guess it has more lovers than we thought." At three times the size of a real corn kernel, the little yellow, orange, and white treat is an icon among holiday candies and has a legacy that goes back more than a century.
 
The story is told that it was George Renninger, a candy maker at the Wunderlee Candy Company in Philadelphia, who invented the revolutionary tricolor candy in the 1880s. That may be true, but it was the Goelitz Confectionery Company who brought the candy to the masses at the turn of the twentieth century. Goelitz introduced the confection as Chicken Feed, sold in boxes illustrated with a colorful rooster logo and a tag line that read: "Something worth crowing for."
 
In 2001 the family-run operation changed its name to the Jelly Belly Candy Co., which still produces candy corn today. Originally made by hand by a very labor-intensive process, the method has changed over the years, but the original recipe hasn’t. In honor of its Goelitz roots, Jelly Belly also developed a candy corn–flavored jelly bean.
 
Candy corn starts as a mixture of sugar, water, and corn syrup, to which fondant, vanilla flavor, and marshmallow crème are added. This mixture is melted into liquid candy, called slurry, and is colored and run through a cornstarch molding process to create each kernel. Wooden trays filled with cornstarch are imprinted with rows of candy corn molds, where the layers—colored with food coloring—are individually deposited from bottom to top.
 
The mixture cools in the tray, which seals the three layers together. The kernels of candy corn are sifted from the trays and polished in large drum pans with edible wax and glaze to create their irresistible shine.
 
Is there a proper way to eat candy corn? Just like Oreo cookies (and there is a Candy Corn Oreo available this year), people have their favorite methods. Many say to start with the white pointed end and nibble up to the widest part. A smaller group, the true renegades, begin eating the wider yellow end first.

Happy Halloween, and remember to go buy a new toothbrush!
 
Spiced Candy Corn Crispies

If you'd like to try a spicy-sweet take on the holiday, we like this recipe from the editors at Food & Wine magazine, which colors and flavors candy corn–shaped Rice Krispies Treats with chili powder, cumin, and cayenne. Perfect for pairing with adult beverages at your Halloween party. Photo Food & Wine.

Ingredients
One 10-ounce bag marshmallows
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon pure ancho chile powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon salt
Orange and yellow food coloring
6 cups Rice Krispies
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
 
Directions
Spray two mini muffin pans with vegetable oil spray. In a large saucepan, combine half of the marshmallows with 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the chile powder, cumin, coriander and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and cook over moderate heat until the marshmallows have melted. Stir in enough orange food coloring to dye the marshmallow orange. Stir in 3 cups of the rice cereal. Spoon the mixture into the muffin cups and pack it down with lightly oiled hands.

Wash and dry the saucepan. Add the remaining marshmallows, 2 tablespoons of butter and 1/4 teaspoon of salt and cook over moderate heat until melted and smooth. Pour half of the melted marshmallow into a heatproof bowl and stir in 1 1/2 cups of the rice cereal to make the white layer. Add the cayenne and yellow food coloring to the marshmallow in the saucepan and stir in the remaining 1 1/2 cups of rice cereal. Using lightly oiled hands, mound the yellow mixture on top of the orange layer, packing it down to firmly attach it. Top with the white layer, tapering the mixture to a point so the crispies resemble the conical shape of candy corn. Serve or store overnight in an airtight container. 
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425 East 63rd Street, Suite E7C, New York, NY 10065

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