 |
||
|
|||
|
Get to know an ancient fruit Hint: it’s more than an ugly pear November 21, 2019 | Photo Lena Pardo You may be most familiar with quince from the block of jellied paste that holds a regular spot on your cheese plate, but lately fresh quince has been making an appearance at the Union Square Greenmarket and other markets around town, so this week we’re taking a fresh look at this ancient fruit. Here’s the dish. It is said that the golden apple of Greek myth that Paris gifted to Aphrodite was a quince and some speculate that it was actually a quince with which Eve tempted Adam. That makes logistical sense, since the tree is found everywhere throughout the eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia. But what gives this bumpy, rough and tough, pear-shaped fruit its romantic reputation? The fragrance. In fact, it’s recommended that, once purchased, you let the fruit sit in a bowl for a few days before cooking—your home will be filled with a delightful vanilla aroma that will only intensify as you finally poach the fruit to make it edible. Although the fruit never gained the popularity here that it enjoys in Europe and elsewhere, early American settlers commonly planted a quince tree or two among their apple orchards. Naturally filled with pectin (a gelling agent), quince were useful in the making of jellies and jams from any fruits, and they make an excellent jelly in and of themselves. Quince is in the same family as apples and pears, but that’s where the similarity ends. Even when ripe, the fruit is hard and woody, and difficult to peel. The flesh of the uncooked fruit will be white. Once cooked, the flesh softens, turns a lovely shade of pink, and becomes sweet and even more aromatic, with a floral, almost candy-like scent. Poached quince can be stored in its poaching liquid in the refrigerator for up to two weeks—the flavors will intensify as the fruit sits. Use it in a compote with dried fruits such as apricots and figs, top the cooked fruit with some granola and yogurt, and don’t forget to cook down the poaching liquid when the fruit has all been eaten—it makes a delicious syrup that will last months when refrigerated. Cooked quince also pairs well with other fall fruits, like apples, pears, and pomegranate, and can be roasted alongside meats like pork and lamb or vegetables like sweet potatoes and butternut squash. You’ll find quince in the market from November through January. Look for fruit with skin that is bright yellow with lightly fuzzy skin. If the fruit is still pale, let it ripen on the counter for a day or two, then move the fridge for up to two weeks. Get to know quince—we think it's a worthy addition to your holiday fruit bowl. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Cranberry-Quince Chutney Just in time for your Thanksgiving table this chutney adds an alternative to plain cranberry sauce. Food & Wine’s Shawn McClain says cranberries and quince need a bit of sweetness to taste their best, so he combines them with apples, raisins and sugar, as well as cider vinegar and spices, to make a tangy chutney. Photo John Kernick. Ingredients 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 small onion, minced 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 1 garlic clove, minced 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1 star anise pod 1 1/2 cups sugar 1 cup cider vinegar 3 quinces (8 ounces each)—peeled, cored and finely diced 1 Granny Smith apple—peeled, cored and finely diced One 12-ounce bag fresh or frozen cranberries 1/2 cup golden raisins Directions In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onion, ginger, garlic, allspice and star anise and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar, vinegar and 1 cup of water and bring to a simmer. Add the quince, apple, cranberries and raisins and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until thick and jammy, about 25 minutes. Discard the star anise. Serve the chutney warm or chilled. The chutney can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. |
||||
|
|||||
|
Copyright © 2019 150ish. All Rights reserved. 425 East 63rd Street, Suite E7C, New York, NY 10065 hello@150ish.com Subscribe | Send to a friend | Tell us about your favorites Sent to <<Email Address>> — why did I get this? Unsubscribe from this list | Update subscription preferences Email not displaying correctly? View it in your browser |
||