Imagine if France decided tomorrow that the grape variety Chardonnay was no longer called Chardonnay, and instead was called something completely fictitious. Now imagine, France then created a random geographic boundary around some Chardonnay vineyards in Burgundy, claiming it to be a new Geographic Indication (GI) named “Chardonnay”.
Now imagine France then passed regulations which changed the name of the Chardonnay grape variety across Europe to its new fictitious variety name, which was completely unfamiliar and unappealing to consumers. Then, through European trade negotiations, imagine France systematically went about restricting the use of Chardonnay in other countries and markets on the grounds that their Chardonnay, was not from the so-called “Chardonnay” GI.
“What a ridiculous notion” you may say. “Everyone knows Chardonnay is a grape variety…this would never be acceptable to consumers or the global wine sector”.
While this may seem fanciful, this is exactly what happened in 2009 and has been the reality for the Prosecco grape variety ever since.
Around three years into the Prosecco GI Lie the Italians made their first attempt to restrict use of the grape variety in Australia by applying to register the term as a European wine GI through Australia’s existing wine GI system. Fortunately, after extensive legal battle in 2013, the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (now Australian Grape and Wine Incorporated) successfully defended the ability of Australian producers to grow and produce Prosecco on the grounds that it was in fact the common name of a grape variety used in Australia.
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