Copy
Digestible Bits and Bites #69, January 2019

Digestible Bits and Bites

The monthly newsletter of the
Culinary Historians of Canada
Number 69, January 2019
Share
Tweet
Forward
Pin
+1
Happy Twelfth Night! The Twelfth Night cake was traditionally eaten at a party to mark the end of the Christmas season. The person whose slice contained the pea or bean hidden inside became king of the festivities for the evening. This example was prepared by Sherry Murphy and decorated by Monika Paradis for display at Montgomery's Inn (Etobicoke, Ontario).

Index

  1. CHC News and Upcoming Events

  2. News and Opportunities

  3. Events of Interest

  4. Upcoming Conferences

  5. Food for Thought (book reviews)

  6. Guest article


1. CHC News and Upcoming Events
 

CHC Plans on the Boil 

CHC's upcoming event, An 18th-Century French Maritimes Feast, with chef and historic cook Chantal Véchambre, has been sold out since mid-December. But don't worry! We're cooking up ideas for new events in the near future.

Save the date for Schmecks Appeal, the Culinary Legacy of Edna Staebler, a sure-to-be-memorable look at the life of an illustrious Canadian culinary icon through the eyes of her friend Rose Murray, who is also a renowned cookbook author. It takes place on Saturday, October 19 in Waterloo, Ontario. In addition, this summer we're planning another road trip to follow on our visits to one of L.M. Montgomery's homes in 2017 and the birthplace of the Women's Institutes in 2018. Further details will follow.
 

CHC 2019 Membership Directory

If you are a CHC member in good standing, you should receive your copy of the 2019 Membership Directory electronically today under separate cover. It is yours to print out and refer to throughout the year.

If you don't receive one today, you're probably not included on our roster of paid-up members for this year. If so, or if you spot any other errors that need correction, please email us at membership@culinaryhistorians.ca..
 

Lots of Volunteers Opportunities with CHC!

CHC brings together a diverse group of people—some with years of study and experience, and others who love learning and are fascinated with food. I'll admit to feeling a hint of intimidation when I first joined, but I soon discovered that it was nice to find so many other people to learn from. When I helped out at the CHC presentations at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair in Toronto, I made new friends with other members, learned about WWI food history and was able to share that with guests at the Royal.

Most of us have probably read about the benefits of volunteering, helping us to feel connected to others and giving us a sense of purpose. What can volunteering with CHC do for you? Think about what you could gain from a brief shift helping at events, or getting involved in planning events or participating in CHC's committees. We want you to have the fullest experience possible.
—Jennifer Meyer, CHC Volunteer Coordinator (jennmeyer77@gmail.com)
Upcoming CHC Events
  • Saturday, January 26, 1:15 to 3:45 p.m.: An 18th-Century French Maritimes Feast, Ralph Thornton Community Centre (Toronto). CHC presents a hands-on historic cooking workshop led by chef and historic cook Chantal Véchambre. SOLD OUT
  • Saturday, February 23, 2019: Hungry for Comfort: A Celebration of Food History, Fort York National Historic Site (Toronto). The second annual event puts the spotlight on African-Canadian culinary stories, as well as First Nations.
  • Saturday, October 19: Schmecks Appeal, the Culinary Legacy of Edna Staebler (Waterloo, Ontario). Rose Murray, CHC Honorary Member and Edna's friend, will reflect on the life and food writing of this illustrious Canadian culinary icon, with lunch cooked from Staebler's books, such as Food That Really Schmecks. Details to follow. Tickets will be available on Eventbrite.
Join the Culinary Historians of Canada!



The membership year runs from one annual general meeting (usually in October) to the next. Download a membership form here and join us today! 

2. News and Opportunities

Compiled by Julia Armstrong & Sarah Hood
 
Huffpost Foodie Podcasts
Huffington Post has been continuing its podcast series called "Born and Raised: Food", which explores the ways food has shaped the identity of second-generation Canadians. In episode 4, guests Preena Chauhan, Tasha Stansbury and Ben Lootens recall their immigrant moms' unique takes on their cultures' food traditions. In the season's final instalment, host Angelyn Francis and reporter Al Donato present stories about the role food plays in fitting in.
 
Manitoba Food History Project Fellowship
The Manitoba Food History Project has inaugurated a fellowship available to successful applicants to the University of Winnipeg—University of Manitoba Joint Master's Program in History for 2019-2020 who have an expressed interest in Canadian, oral, food, labour and/or business history.

With a value of $5,000, renewable to a maximum of $15,000, it will be awarded to a fellow who conducts research with Dr. Janis Thiessen and her collaborators on the Manitoba Food History Project for seven to ten hours per week at the University of Winnipeg campus. The successful applicant will be trained in oral history, audio editing and archival research techniques.

Applications consisting of a CV and a summary of related interest and experience of not more than 250 words are due January 15, to be submitted to Dr. Janis Thiessen at ja.thiessen@uwinnipeg.ca.
 
What's Cooking? (Member News)

CHC MEMBERS: Please let us know what you're up to! We'll publish all suitable news items received at cadmus@interlog.com by the 25th of each month. (Please write your announcement directly into your email window, with no attachments except a photo. Be sure to include a web link for further information!)

CHC member John Ota was among the attendees at a December presentation on 1920s dining decorum at Parkwood Estate in Oshawa, Ontario. It was offered by Parkwood curator Samantha George, who is also a CHC board vice-president.

Karen Millyard recently completed another successful literary-themed food history event with her Jane Austen Christmas Supper, held on December 8 at Montgomery's Inn in Etobicoke, Ontario. CHC member Gillian Sutcliffe assisted Kate Hill in the preparation of an elaborate menu, including Turkey Galantine (boned turkey stuffed with sausage meat and pistachios, then poached), Chestnuts à l'Espagnole, Jerusalem Artickokes, Prawns in Jelly, Pickled Asparagus, Mincemeat Tarts and Gingerbread. Karen's next event, and the last of the holiday season, is her Twelfth Night Traditions: Supper and Dance Party, which takes place at Montgomery's Inn on January 4 and 5.

On December 15, Kate Hill produced a Charles Dickens feast for about 40 diners at Montgomery's Inn, with a menu recreated from historic recipes and numerous extras, including a demonstration of Dickens’ own recipe for Flaming Rum Punch, a taste test of meaty and no-meat mince tarts, and appropriate readings from Dickens. Sarah Hood assisted, offering talks on Dickens' contribution to our own ideas about Christmas, the evolution of mincemeat, and oysters in the Victorian period. See the images below. Top left: Ingredients for the punch. Top right: The dessert table, with a fruit tower, plum puddings, a Christmas cake and other fare. Bottom left: Goose pies. Bottom right: A blackcurrant jelly made with fruit grown and picked on the grounds of the inn.

3. Events of Interest

Compiled by Jane Black, Sarah Hood and Carolyn Crawford

THIS MONTH (January 2019)

Toronto
  • Sundays, January 13, 20 & 27: Taste of Chinatown Food and Culture Tour, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Savour Toronto invites participants to explore the neighbourhood of Old Chinatown for its diverse food, history and culture, where they will have the opportunity to indulge in generous tastings of dim sum, northern-style dumplings, hand-pulled noodles, and sweet and savoury pastries. A guide will share expertise about Chinese customs, eclectic folklore and a brief history of the Chinese community in Toronto. Admission: $75. Pre-registration is required.
  • Sunday, January 20: Robbie Burns’ Day Celebrations, noon to 4 p.m. Mackenzie House celebrates the birthday of the beloved Scottish poet with toe-tapping live music, shortbread and a taste of haggis. Admission: $5 to $8.
  • Friday to Thursday, January 25 to 31: Dinner with the Mackenzies: A Winterlicious Event, 7 to 10 p.m. Mackenzie House invites visitors to join William Lyon Mackenzie and his wife, Isabel, for a unique dining and theatrical experience in their restored 1860s dining room and parlour, including a four-course meal based on Victorian fare. Admission: $125. (Continues in February.)
  • Saturday, January 26: An 18th-Century French Maritimes Feast, 1:15 to 3:45 p.m. CHC presents a hands-on historic cooking workshop at Ralph Thornton Community Centre in Toronto, led by chef and historic cook Chantal Véchambre. Admission: $65 (general), $60 (CHC members). SOLD OUT
Greater Toronto and Hamilton Area (GTHA)
  • Friday & Saturday, January 4 & 5: Twelfth Night Traditions: Supper and Dance Party, 5 to 10:30 p.m. on Friday, 3:30 to 10:30 p.m. on Saturday (Etobicoke, Ontario). Montgomery's Inn hosts this chance to step into the atmosphere of times gone by on the twelfth day of Christmas. Partake in the yuletide customs of Old England: dance to live music and enjoy a historical supper, hot mulled cider and other seasonal treats by the fire. Admission: $55 to $65. Pre-registration is required. 416-578-1031.
  • Saturday, January 19: Queen Charlotte's Birthday Ball, 5:30 to 11:30 p.m. (Etobicoke, Ontario). Montgomery's Inn hosts this annual recreation of a ball that was organized by the officers of the Garrison at York (Fort York) in January 1817. Admission: $85. 519-939-8116.
  • Thursday, January 31: Thirsty Thursday, 7 to 10 p.m. (Etobicoke, Ontario). Montgomery’s Inn presents Thirsty Thursday tavern night with beer, wine or a Thomas Montgomery specialty in the restored 1847 barroom, along with Irish stew, fresh-baked bread and live traditional music. Admission: Free. Cash bar; $5 for a bowl of stew while supplies last. 416-394-8113.
Other Regions
  • Tuesday, January 1: New Year’s Levee, 1 to 4 p.m. (London, Ontario). Eldon House invites guests  to enjoy music in the elegant drawing room, exchange greetings and gather for hot cider and treats in the Interpretive Centre. Admission: Free.
  • Saturday, January 19: Iordan—Feast of Jordan, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. (Edmonton). Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village celebrates one of the most important holy days of the Ukrainian church calendar, Iordan, also known as the Feast of the Epiphany. Admission: $5 to $20.
LOOKING AHEAD (February 2019)

Toronto
  • Friday & Saturday, February 1 & 2: Dinner with the Mackenzies: A Winterlicious Event, 7 to 10 p.m. See Friday to Thursday, January 25 to 31.
  • Sundays, February 10, 17 & 24: Taste of Chinatown Food and Culture Tour, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Savour Toronto invites participants to explore the neighbourhood of Old Chinatown for its diverse food, history and culture, where they will have the opportunity to indulge in generous tastings of dim sum, northern-style dumplings, hand-pulled noodles, and sweet and savoury pastries. A guide will share expertise about Chinese customs, eclectic folklore and a brief history of the Chinese community in Toronto. Admission: $75. Pre-registration is required.
Greater Toronto and Hamilton Area (GTHA)
  • Sunday, February 24: Historic Winter Hat Show & Tea, 1:30 to 3 p.m. Parkwood Estate invites the public to join the curator on a journey through the history of the Parkwood Hat Collection, examining its local and societal significance. Homemade scones, preserves, tea and coffee will be served. Admission: $30 + HST. Angie Vehof, 905-433-4311.
  • Thursday, February 28: Thirsty Thursday, 7 to 10 p.m. (Etobicoke, Ontario). Montgomery’s Inn presents Thirsty Thursday tavern night with beer, wine or a Thomas Montgomery specialty in the restored 1847 barroom, along with Irish stew, fresh-baked bread and live traditional music. Admission: Free. Cash bar; $5 for a bowl of stew while supplies last. 416-394-8113.
Other Regions
  • Sundays in February: Tea and Tour, seatings from 1 to 3:15 p.m. (Vancouver). Roedde House presents tasting of its own Roedde House tea blend by Metropolian Tea Co. and tours of the museum. No reservations needed! Admission: $8.

CONTINUING
  • To February 24, 2019: Brewing Changes Guelph (Guelph, Ontario). Guelph Civic Museum presents an exhibit that examines the social and economic importance of brewing beer in the Royal City and the changes brought about by the rise, fall and resurrection of Guelph breweries. Admission: $5 (general), free (under 4), $15 (family).
  • Daily: Historic Afternoon Tea & Tour at Fort Langley National Historic Site, tea 1 to 2:45 p.m., tour 3 to 4:30 p.m. (Fort Langley, British Columbia). An elegant afternoon tea at the Little White House (LWH) Salon Café in the coach house of the historic Marr House. Fort Langley, a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post, was first established in 1827. On the tour, visitors will hear about local historical characters and explore the homes and workshops of the people of the trade. Admission: $15.68 per person (plus admission fee for groups of 15–30), including tea, tour and HST. 604-513-4799 or fort.langley@pc.gc.ca.
  • Daily: Fishing the West Coast and the Canning Line, 10 a.m. to  5 p.m. (Steveston, British Columbia). The Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site offers exhibits on the development of fishing on Canada’s West Coast and modern fishing practices, too. Admission: Free.
  • Sundays, 1 to 3:15 p.m.: Tea and Tour of Roedde House (Vancouver). A tea tasting of Roedde House blend by Metropolian Tea Co., along with a tour of the museum. Admission: $8. No reservations required.
  • Sundays: Gibson House Tea & Tour, 1 to 4:30 p.m. (Toronto). Every Sunday, there’s tea, cookies and a seat for you at the harvest table in the 1850s historic kitchen. Free with regular admission.
  • Indefinite run: Ongoing exhibits at the Canada Agriculture and Food Museum (Ottawa). Admission: Free with entrance to the museum. 613-991-3044 or 1-866-442-4416.
  • Indefinite run: Beggar’s Banquet (Louisbourg, Nova Scotia). Participants enjoy an 18th-century maritime meal while dressed in period clothing.

4. Conferences

Compiled by Julia Armstrong

2019

June 1 to 7 (Vancouver, British Columbia)
CANADIAN ASSOCIATION FOR FOOD STUDIES 14th ANNUAL ASSEMBLY
In association with the Congress of the Humanities and Social Sciences.
Theme: Circles of Conversation.

June 6 to 7 (Tours, France)
FIFTH INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION ON FOOD HISTORY AND FOOD STUDIES
Focus: Multi-disciplinary, covering all time periods.

June 6 to 8 (Washington, D.C.)
AGRICULTURAL HISTORY SOCIETY ANNUAL MEETING
Theme: Power in Agricultural History.
Of note: 100th anniversary of the society.

June 8 to 12 (Saint-Marie Among the Hurons, Midland, Ontario)
ANNUAL CONFERENCE OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR LIVING HISTORY, FARM AND AGRICULTURAL MUSEUMS

June 18 to 21 (Barcelona, Spain)
INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS ON CULINARY HERITAGE, TOURISM AND SUSTAINABILITY
Themes and information: Click here.
Venue: Observatorio de la Alimentación (University of Barcelona) and Fundación Alícia.

July 12 to 14 (Oxford, England)
OXFORD SYMPOSIUM ON FOOD & COOKERY
Deadline for call for papers: mid-January 2019.


2020

June 21 to 25 (Old Sturbridge Village, Sturbridge, Massachusetts)
ANNUAL CONFERENCE OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR LIVING HISTORY, FARM AND AGRICULTURAL MUSEUMS

5. Food for Thought

Have you missed a book review? You can read reviews from all our past issues online. If you are a CHC member who would like to contribute, please contact Elka Weinstein at elka.weinstein@utoronto.ca or Sarah Hood at cadmus@interlog.com.

   
Honey from a Weed: Fasting and Feasting in Tuscany, Catalonia, the Cyclades and Apulia by Patience Gray (Prospect Books, 2009). Reviewed by Fiona Lucas, pictured above.

You may recall that I reviewed a new biography of cookbook author Patience Gray in Digestible Bits and Bites’ December issue, titled Fasting and Feasting: The Life of Visionary Food Writer Patience Gray, by Adam Federman. I enjoyed it very much, even though I’d not read any of Gray’s books. It prompted me to get a copy of her best-known cookbook, Honey from a Weed, a title I was familiar with from reading other authors. I said I’d report back. It may not be a recent book, but it is a book new to me, and perhaps to you too, so worth reviewing. And recommending.

Alan Davidson’s Prospect Books first published it in 1986, then re-released it in 1987 and 2002, and again in 2009. It’s considered to be one of the most influential 20th-century cookbooks. I found it mesmerizing. Rhapsodic. How did I manage to miss it during my 32 years of professionally reading cookbooks and culinary history books?

Patience Gray lived the last half of her long life (1917–2005) among the country people of the lowermost point on Italy’s peninsular heel, Apulia. Stretches of time were also spent in Carrara, Tuscany, in Catalonia, northwest Spain, and in the Greek Cyclade Islands, especially Naxos. She and her partner, sculptor Norman Mommens, became an integral part of the Apulia community, although they never lost their foreignness and Englishness. By living on a small rustic plot alongside their farm neighbours, they participated fully in the region’s seasonal and daily rhythms, making their own wine and olive oil, preserving fruits and lard, foraging for edible weeds and growing vegetables. They also cooked on an indoor hearth and grill, carried pails of water from pump to sink and eschewed refrigeration.

I think the cookbook became a classic because its narrative and recipes captured these rhythms and activities so evocatively, respectfully, with both scholarship and familiarity. I can understand the inspiration others must have felt when it was originally published. I can’t forget to mention Corinna Sargood’s dozens of wonderful line drawings, which are integral to the book’s charm.

Honey from a Weed is both autobiographical and archival. Gray knew she was recording the fading communal practices of ancient farming and foraging. Her meticulous observations and wide-ranging historical research, not to mention her frequent acerbic comments on what the 20th century wrought, really bring alive the very old culinary and agricultural continuity of these regions.

Review Contributors
  • Gary Gillman (Toronto)
  • Sher Hackwell (Vancouver)
  • Sarah Hood (Toronto)
  • Fiona Lucas (Toronto)
  • Susan Peters (Morrisburg, Ontario)
  • Sonja Pushchak (Toronto)
  • Laura Reilly (Comox, British Columbia)
  • Elka Weinstein (Toronto)
Across the far-flung regions of Canada, a lot is happening in the fields of food and history. This monthly digest is a forum for Canadian culinary historians and enthusiasts to tell each other about their many activities. This is a place for networking and conversation about Canadian culinary history happenings. Each month, Digestible Bits and Bites is shared with members of the Culinary Historians of Canada and other interested persons who ask to be on the distribution list. 
 
The Culinary Historians of Canada would like to share this digest with a wide audience. You are encouraged to post or forward this information. 


Administrivia 

  • To receive their free monthly edition of Digestible Bits and Bites, interested readers need only send a request with their email address to the editor.
  • Past issues of Digestible Bits and Bites are posted on the Culinary Historians of Canada website.
Copyright © 2019 Culinary Historians of Canada, All rights reserved.


unsubscribe from this list    update subscription preferences 

Email Marketing Powered by Mailchimp