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Member Newsletter • May 2019

As you start hitting the crags and boulders outside, you'll find plenty of reasons to spend some time in the gym this summer, the biggest being our Summer Progression Sessions. Learn all about it below. This issue also features the results of another amazing Tour de Bloc, updates on what's new in the gym, and the results of last issue's member poll. Read on, and if you have any feedback on the newsletter or suggestions of what you'd like to see in future issues, we'd love to hear from you. 

BoulderHouse Beta

New email communication: We’re using a new system to keep you updated on activity related to your membership. You may already have received an email or two. As with any new tech, we’re continuously troubleshooting and updating. If you have feedback or if something doesn’t look right with an email you received, let us know at climb@boulderhouse.ca. 
About that coffee: Sorry for the delay with the coffee service we announced in the previous issue. We've had a few hiccups installing our dust collection systems, which has held up our coffee install. Rest assured, coffee machines are on order and will be arriving within the next couple of weeks. At which point, we'll be brewing up fresh cups in no time. Thanks for your patience.
Aurora Board: Many of you are already making great use of the new Aurora Board on the back 55 wall. The new LED system lets you use an app on your mobile device to create and share your own boulder problems, while tackling problems created by your fellow climbers. Find the iOS app here and Android here. We’ll have a blog post coming soon with some more details and guidelines for using Aurora.
New on the BoulderHouse blog: RMT Christy Mader guides you through some shoulder and neck rehab in the first two of a series of blog posts. Part 1 is here, part 2 here. Watch for more soon. You can also read more about the upcoming Summer Progression Sessions here. This is a great intro to the comp for those who have never tried one and want to know how it works. 

South Island Climbers Society

A new group has formed to work with local governments, landowners, and other stakeholders, representing the interests of climbers in the South Island area, ensuring continued access to and stewardship of rock climbing. Learn more about the South Island Climbers Society in this guest blog post from SIC president Haj Bains.
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Meanwhile, a guidebook for the Duncan Boulders by Greg Bauch, Seanathon Morphy, and Mikhail Yerkovich is in the works and tentatively scheduled for release this summer. Featuring around 240 problems, the book will provide much-needed information on this spectacular bouldering area.

Events

This six-week competition is your chance to challenge yourself (and others, if you so choose) while building your strength and technique. Each week, take on 12 new boulder problems, completing as many as you can and tracking your own score. Your four best weeks count toward your final tally, so you can start late or take breaks.

Registration is open now and costs just $25; get a free T-shirt if you register before May 27. For more details, check out this article in the BoulderHouse blog on our website. You can also ask us questions in the post's comments section, email us, or talk to us at the gym.

Gym closures: The gym will be open regular hours on Victoria Day (Monday, May 20), Canada Day (Monday, July 1), and BC Day (Monday, August 5). We will be closed during the following dates and times:
  • July 24: closing early at 9:00 pm
  • July 25: closed all day
  • July 26: open at 5:00pm for SPS wrap-up party and scramble comp
Scramble Comp: Challenge yourself in the always-fun final scramble on July 26 starting at 5:00pm. Registration details will be made available closer to the comp date.

Wrap-up Beach Party: Whether you compete in SPS this year or not, please join us for the final celebration on the evening of July 26. 
You can get updates on gym events on our online calendar or check with staff next time you’re in the gym if you have any questions.

Tour de Bloc Report

Tour de Bloc 16 was a huge success! From a more serious round of Open qualifiers in the morning, to a Scramble Format round for all levels in the afternoon, to an incredible and intense round of finals in the evening, the event brought the community together in so many ways. Special congratulations to BoulderHouse ambassadors Tosh Sherkat and Becca Frangos for making finals and coming 2nd and 3rd overall. We had 75 competitors, mainly local, but with a few from elsewhere on Vancouver Island and Vancouver. 

A big thanks to our sponsors: Fernwood Coffee, Little June Cafe, Hornby Organic, West Coast Resoles, Friction Labs, Sattva, Patagonia Victoria, Miko Photo, Hoyne Brewery, and Cain Exercise Rehab.

Here are the comp results:

Males

Open
  1. Brennan Doyle
  2. Tosh Sherkat
  3. Aidan Doyle
Masters
  1. Shaun Dalzell
  2. Darryl Gamroth
Experienced
  1. Vincent Smith
  2. Jared Allen
  3. Triston Rorke
Recreation
  1. Adrian Myszka
Youth
  1. Sam Zanbilowicz
  2. Kai Saunders
  3. Felix Randall


 

Females

Open
  1. Tiffany Melius
  2. Emi Takashiba
  3. Becca Frangos
Masters
  1. Christy Mader
Experienced
  1. Emily Candell
  2. Sohpia Pimental
  3. Corrine Pomerleau
Recreation
  1. Kelly Frewen
  2. Nichola Kennell
  3. Cameo Volk
Youth
  1. Kira Stewart
  2. Ginger Wong
  3. Ariel Nicolson

Comp Photos


You'll find a selection of photos from Tour de Bloc on the BoulderHouse website in our galleries here.

February Poll Results


In the previous newsletter poll you told us the colour grade that you climb most consistently at the gym. Here’s how your responses broke down:



Ah, the green/blue barrier. If you’ve come up against it, you’re not alone. Several of you mentioned this in our membership survey last year. We’ll be talking about it in a future blog post to see if we can help you progress to blue and beyond. 

This Issue's Poll


We're giving away free entry into this year's Summer Progression Sessions (if you're not participating, it can make a great gift for your competitive friend) valued at $25. To enter, just click on your answer to the following question by May 25:

You probably climb for many reasons, but if you had to pick the one that gets you to the gym on a cold rainy day, that pushes you to do that extra session even though you’re still sore from the last one, that sees you repeatedly cajole your non-climbing friends into giving it a go, which of the following most closely matches that reason?

Fitness
I boulder to get physically stronger while improving things like balance and coordination. It complements my other fitness routines and challenges my body in ways other exercises just can’t do. It is part of my efforts to live a healthy, active life.

Performance
I boulder to become a better climber. It gives the skills to tackle other projects, whether those are roped routes in a gym or outdoors at the crag. I like to improve my technique and gain power for getting through cruxes, always aiming to progress to new levels of difficulty.

People
I boulder to hang out with my friends, enjoy the feeling of being part of a larger climbing community, and to meet new people. I feel comfortable being myself at the gym and know I’ll find kindred spirits. I like that sense of belonging, shared values, and supportive culture.
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