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GOING "YEAST MODE" IN SARDINIA

More commonly associated with the bone-dry Fino and Manzanilla sherry styles of southern Spain, both of which are now witnessing a roaring renaissance, few are aware that two tiny regions, nestled along Sardinia's remote west coast also leverage the microbial powers of the fungal growth known as flor to produce wines that are at once intense, textural and supremely age-worthy.

Hang on, fungal growth? Microbial? Let's back up a minute...

Flor - Spanish for 'flower,' is a wine making term that refers to the thin veil of yeast that, under the right climatic conditions (cool temperatures, high humidity), develops on the surface of a wine, at once protecting the wine from oxidation as it ages, but also feeding on the nutrients within, imparting a unique subset of flavors and textures that become an integral and highly complex part of the final wine.

So while most of the world's winemakers are working tirelessly the avoid any unwanted intrusions in their wine, the miracle of biologically aged wines means that the flor, instead of being an accident to be avoided, is something that is sought, cultivated, and protected. The resulting wine is imbued with a distinct profile: nutty, saline, chalkily mineral, at once richly viscous, yet bone dry emanating layers of complexity that oscillate between the many shades of the grape in questions and a seemingly endless well of microbial complexity.

And while the sherries of southern Spain have seen a recent revival in the celebration of such styles, we are lucky and delighted to bring you two lesser known but equally as profound (and painstakingly time consuming) alternatives from Sardinia's sunny western shores.


These are true 'vino di meditazione' that likely fall well beyond the register of what many would consider traditional white wine, especially for those uninitiated in other flor-aged styles; but therein lies the beauty within this bottles. They are truly 'special occasion' wines that deserve the company of a great meal, or a wonderful plate of cheeses, but definitely a great group of friends willing to open their mines to something different for a night.
 

From now through until Friday, 7/12 we will be offering a 10% discount to our regular readers, and a 15% discount to our Biondivino Wine Club Members! Regular readers, use the discount code SILVIO at checkout to receive the deal, Wine Club Members, use the discount code COLUMBU.

 

*No additional discounts can be applied. Any orders from non-Wine Club Members using the Wine Club discount will be rendered void and refunded immediately. 

SILVIO CARTA

The Carta family has been making (and aging) wine in the sleepy coastal Sardinian town of Oristano for generations. The local grape here is Vernaccia, though not the one we find surrounding Tuscany's medieval village of San Gimignano, with the vine likely introduced by the Phoenicians, or cultivated from the wild native vines of the nearby Tirso Valley. The style is decidedly oxidative - nutty, oily, intriguing - but no Englishman created or discovered this wine (as was the case with Marsala). And maybe that’s a shame, because these bottles deserve to be better known outside their home.

These are true vins d'élevage, with each vintage and sometimes, each barrel, taking years to show its true potential for longer term develop. Pain staking care and attention is paid by current proprietor Elio Carta (Silvio's son) to monitor the development of each and every barrel, with decisions being made whether to bottle them as a more youthful, fresher Valle del Tirso IGP style, or hold them for extended aging (anywhere from 3 to 50 years) that will result in the mind-bendingly nuanced Riserva styles that rarely make their way State-side.


The register is something undoubtedly new for many, falling somewhere amid the viscous, mineral tones of southern Spain's zippy Fino and Manzanilla sherries, the richer nuttiness of drier Marsala styles, with a little more of that passito fruit plushness.
The 'everyday' wine of Oristano, those barrels not deemed worthy of longer aging see a brief 1-1.5 years under flor before going to bottle. While IGT Valle del Tirso traditionally is bottled without a vintage on the label, the wine usually comes from a single vintage and, in the case of Silvio Carta, a single barrel. A perfect side-step for lovers of Fino or Manzanilla style sherries.

 


The Carta's riserva wines hail from the estate's more favored plantings, where the bunches have greater propensity toward ripeness and maturity. And while each riserva wine meets the minimum 4 year aging period dictated by the DOC, some are selected for longer term aging while other, like the 2005, are released younger (5-8 years under flor), geared toward more freshness and of course, greater affordability.


A particularly ethereal riserva bottling from an exceptionally warm year. Oddly enough, warmer vintages are looked upon kindly in Orsitano, with the hotter temperatures helping to elevate sugar levels and drive phenolic maturity, resulting in wines perfectly suited for extended time in barrel, nourishing its microbial protector. The 2003 vintage was bottled in late 2015, after spending a full 12 years of aging under flor. A mind-boggling display of the full potential of the Oristano region and a heavenly way to cap an evening.

 
This is a monumental wine of particular emotional resonance for Elio, as it was the last vintage that his parents vinified in the family's original cantina in Baratili San Pietro (a town 11 km north of the town of Oristano and within the province and DOC of Oristano). At the time Elio was 17 and away at enology school in Conigliano (Veneto). He decided to bottle it last year (after 50 long years under flor) as both an homage to his parents and an anniversary celebration of their move to the "new" cantina in the town of Zeddiani 50 years ago.

**Please allow 4-6 weeks for shipping
G. BATTISTA COLUMBU

Make no mistake about it: Malvasia di Bosa is one of Italy’s most exciting wines - if you're idea of excitement happens to be intensely subtle, brightly aromatic and highly nuanced wine aged under flor. Sadly, much like it's compatriots in Orsitano, 60km to the south, the wines of Bosa have suffered a similarly depressing neglect on a global scale yet the G. Battista Columbu estate, arguably the reference point producer in the region, has plans to change that.
 
Having established the estate in 1950, Giovanni Battista Columbu was instrumental in pushing for the foundation of the Malvasia di Bosa DOC in 1972, promoting growers and producers in the area, and preserving the ancient local tradition of aging wines under flor. Though Giovanni passed in 2012, the estate is now driven forward by his son Gian Michele and daughter-in-law Vanna, who organically farm the estate's two tiny parcels of Malvasia di Sardegna (now known to be the genetic twin to the Malvasia clone found on Lirpari.)

Much like their counterparts to the south, the wines of Bosa see a minimum of 3 years of aging under flor, though in the case of the Columbu's, many vintages see much longer. Production here is relatively minuscule as one would imagine from plantings total 3.5ha, with a total of 2000-3000 (500ml) bottles being filled with each year.
 
Comparatively to their southern cousins, these wines are more overtly aromatic, but at the same time they possess a delicacy, almost a sense of quiet that by no means makes them any less profound. To the contrary, they draw the drinker in deeper and deeper with each return.

MALVASIA DI BOSA RISERVA, 2011 (500ml)
$70 (10% OFF = $63.00)


The 2011 riserva rolls with subtle folds of wild fennel, lavender, almond, hazelnut, orange peel, moss, seabreeze and salt, and is marked by a strong aromatic note combining pungent flowers and sweet spices. As the wine always exudes plenty of saline freshness, it makes a wonderfully different aperitif and also a worthy dinner-long companion, allowing one to escape the usual suspects.
SHOP FULL COLLECTION
AND... UP NEXT
JULY
13
PA Wine Tasting: CHIANTI NOT-SO-CLASSICO 
Saturday, July 13: 2-4pm
PALO ALTO


$15 TASTING FEE (waived for Wine Club members)

Likely to be the most oft-dismissed, overlooked and misrepresented of all of Italy's blue-chip regions, the wines of Chianti are currently experiencing a roaring renaissance. And for good reason. The site specificity, stylistic diversity and extreme quality now available within the Chianti zone at all pricepoints is testament to the Sangiovese grape's claim to one of Italy's greatest varietals, and a thankful reprise from the wash of Tuscan plonk that soured the region for decades. We plan to showcase both the classical and the very non-classical side of the region with a line up of cracking wines. 7 wines.
JULY
14
SF Secret Garden Party: CHIANTI NOT-SO-CLASSICO 
Sunday, July 14: 2-4pm
SAN FRANCISCO


$15 TASTING FEE (waived for Wine Club members)

Oh yes, it's time to get back into the garden and crack open a bunch of sangio! Likely to be the most oft-dismissed, overlooked and misrepresented of all of Italy's blue-chip regions, the wines of Chianti are currently experiencing a roaring renaissance. And for good reason. The site specificity, stylistic diversity and extreme quality now available within the Chianti zone at all pricepoints is testament to the Sangiovese grape's claim to one of Italy's greatest varietals, and a thankful reprise from the wash of Tuscan plonk that soured the region for decades. We plan to showcase both the classical and the very non-classical side of the region with a line up of cracking wines in a secret neighborhood locale. 7 wines.

Head to our store at 1415 Green Street any time between 2-3.30pm and we'll point you in the right direction!
JULY
19
SF Importer Tasting: Alex Corazza of Friuli Wine Imports
Friday, July 19: 6-8pm
SAN FRANCISCO


$15 TASTING FEE (waived for Wine Club members)

We'll be slinging a line-up of traditional Friulian gems, brought to us by 'new-kid-on-the-block' and Friuli native, Mr Alex Corazza of Friuli Wine Imports. Having been born and raised in the country's north-eastern corner, Alex has spent the last 2 years leveraging some life-long connections to small growers and producers throughout his homeland and now brings the fruit of their labors to our shores. 6 wines.
JULY
21
PA Wine Tasting: VERMOUTH DI ITALIA
Saturday, July 21: 2-4pm
PALO ALTO


$15 TASTING FEE (waived for Wine Club members)

Aperitivo hour will be in full effect! We'll be splashing vermouths from across the country - some of them reliable favorites geared for everyday cocktail use. Others, mystical elixirs primed for endless meditation. Red & white, sweet & dry, we'll cover the board and enlighten you a little on all the things that transcend your mom's bottle of 'Martini Rosso' gathering dust in the back of the liquor cabinet.
JULY
23
SF Importer Tasting: Sesti (Montalcino) & Giulia Negri (Barolo) w/ Kermit Lynch Imports 
Tuesday, July 23: 6-8pm
SAN FRANCISCO


$20 TASTING FEE (waived for Wine Club members)

Young hustler, Sam Imel, of Kermit Lynch Imports will be in house to pour some new-release Montalcino fire, with Rosso and Brunello wines from Sangio Grosso legends, Sesti. We will also see the Biondivino debut of the wines of Giulia Negri; having taken the reigns of her estate at the ripe old age of 24, Giulia has been blazing a firey path toward Barolo stardom, turning out elegant Nebbiolo wines with a Burgundian delicacy that feel as if they stem from decades of experience. Magical stuff. 6 wines.
SEE FULL EVENT CALENDAR
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Biondivino - San Francisco
1415 Green Street
San Francisco, CA 94109
415.673.2320

Biondivino - Palo Alto
Town & Country Village
855 El Camino Real, Suite 160
Palo Alto, CA 94301
650.800.7293

sales@biondivino.com

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