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To learn more about smuggling networks spanning the Americas for this week’s feature story, “Searching for Keith,” Colorado-based writer Sarah Tory followed the path of migrants into dangerous territory.
Reporting in Capurganá, a small Colombian village near the Panama border that’s accessible only by boat, was the only time I’ve felt a twinge of fear while on assignment. On the surface, Capurganá looks like any other beach town—cheap hostels, smoothie stalls, and tour operators offering boat rides up the coast, all catering to a mix of gringo tourists and Colombian vacationers.
But Capurganá is not just another beach town. It borders the Darién Gap, a notoriously wild and lawless jungle spanning the sliver of land that connects South and Central America between Colombia and Panama. The area is a known cocaine smuggling corridor controlled by a powerful drug cartel called the Urabeños, and numerous smaller criminal gangs. In recent years, Capurganá has also become a hub for underground migrants traveling across South and Central America en route to the United States.
One day, we walked down a cart track from Capurganá to a small village in the jungle, hoping to talk to some migrants who were trying to make it through the Darién Gap into Panama. When we reached the village, our guide, a journalist from Turbo, nervously told us that it was not safe for us to linger—there were men linked with the local criminal gangs in the vicinity who were watching us; that we should leave before nightfall. It was a strange feeling, to know you’re being watched, while at the beach just a 30-minute walk away, tourists were sipping cocktails and frolicking in the turquoise water. |
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