This Month's Bourbon Zeppelin Feature Article:
How Important is Corn in the Bourbon Taste Equation?
by Colonel Steve Akley
It's At Least 51% of the Base... Is That the End of the Story?
Recently, I attended an #ABVNetworkCrew Club event where we learned about corn... a lot about corn. The classroom: a cornfield. Our instructor: Gary Hinegardner, owner of Wood Hat Spirits.
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Photos from top, then clockwise: 1). Gary Hinegardner (white beard in the center), our instructor tells us what we will be learning. 2). Jennifer Brooks shows off an ear of an heirloom corn varietal 3). Ryan, the distiller at Wood Hat, lost in the cornfield. 4). Winston Sandage trying some corn, picked right off the stalk moments before 5. The group heading into their makeshift classroom.
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After learning about Wood Hat's products, and tasting them, Gary Hinegardner wanted to show us the base for them: his heirloom corn, much of which is grown right out behind the distillery. We proceeded deep into the cornfields to see firsthand several of the 13 varieties Gary is growing this year.
What you see, touch and taste is the difference base ingredients make. I don't know where you personally stand on GMO products, and I'm not bashing them, but in working with Gary in this exercise, you experience firsthand why corn like this can make a huge difference in a finished product.
Let's get real here.
Most bourbon is made with Yellow Dent #2 Corn. This is the exact same corn you would buy if you went to the feed store and bought corn to feed deer and other wildlife in your backyard. It's true, grain is a commodity in bourbon. It always has been. After all, flavor comes from the barrel, yeast, placement in the warehouse, etc.
I can't disagree with where the flavor comes from, particularly with products in the 6-8 year+ age range. That amount of time in a barrel means the barrel becomes the overwhelming source of flavor for that bourbon.
That truly is bourbon, right? Aged six to nine years in the barrel, yielding that sweet, flavorful profile all bourbon fans know and love.
Well, not so fast.
We do know the regulations to call something a bourbon don't designate how long a bourbon must be stored in a "brand new charred oak container," they only stipulate it must spend some time there (it could literally be thirty seconds). While there is no substitute for time in aging bourbon, I think we have all witnessed some pretty tasty whiskey from craft bourbon distilleries in the 2 - 4 year age range.
How do they do it?
Well, there may be a myriad of reasons for this, but a great start is probably using better raw ingredients. Many varieties of heirloom corn yield a juicer, tastier flavor profile that just pops. It tastes like... well, it tastes like corn. That sounds strange, but, have you ever bought an ear of corn at the grocery store that looks absolutely beautiful sitting there? You get it home, cook it on the grill or on the stove and then you taste it and it tastes like... nothing. It's devoid of taste and flavor, so you slather on butter, sprinkle generously with salt and now it tastes like 21st century corn on the cob to us because we've gotten used to that.
In our class with Gary, we grabbed corn right off of the stalk. Peeled off the husks, removed the stringy grass inside there and took a bite. No cooking on the grill, adding butter and salt... just raw corn, harvested from the field.
Delicious.
That has to make a better whiskey, right? I'm sorry, you can't convince me otherwise, short of an additional 4 or 5 years in a barrel.
The cool thing about what we learned at Wood Hat Spirits isn't the end of our journey. We're going to go back to class there in the fall. Gary and Ryan are going to distill a small batch of each of the 13 varieties of heirloom corn they are growing. We're going to come back to taste all 13 and provide them some insight on what they should be using in their products as well as planting more of in 2020. It should be an amazing opportunity to learn even more about this fascinating subject.
Yes, corn is important in bourbon making. Very important.
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About Colonel Steve Akley
Steve Akley, a Kentucky Colonel, is the company owner of the ABV Network, LLC, as well as an author, podcaster, movie/TV show producer. He has been a bourbon fan (legally) since 1989, but notes that while his family didn't drink very much, when they did, it was a cocktail with bourbon as the base so he's always been around it. He enjoys splitting his time between his home with his family in his beloved hometown of St. Louis and Kentucky, where all of the bourbon fun is. You can reach Steve via social media or the web with everything under the name Steve Akley, or, you can go through the company website at: abvnetwork.com.
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Remember when summer meant relaxation? You put away your book bags and pencil cases in favor of baseball bats and gloves, swimsuits and time just chillin' on the couch. I don't know about for you, but for me, summer equals being crazy busy. Who knew bourbon had a season?
I've been busy in Kentucky involved in events, meeting with distillery personnel, taking tours and doing a ton of barrel picks (stores load up now for deliveries during their busy holiday season).
Of course, when it comes to being busy, there is "good busy" and "bad busy." I guess I'm adding a third category, "bourbon busy." I have to tell you, "bourbon busy" is definitely the best kinda busy so I'm not complaining. Enough about me, we've got a great issue of BZ we are presenting you here today.
Like I always say, I hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together for you.
Cheers!
Editor-in-Chief of Bourbon Zeppelin, Owner of the ABV Network, Podcast Writer, Producer & On-Air Personality, Filmmaker, Blogger, 30+ Years Bourbon Fan, Bourbon Staff Writer Food & Dining Magazine, Maker's Mark Ambassador (Ambassador #14,903/member since 2000), Four Roses Mellow Moments Club Member (2016), Author of the Best-Selling Cocktail Book Series Bourbon Mixology (Four Volumes, 2015-Present), Apprenticed at a Bourbon Distillery (2016), Completed the Bourbon Trail (2016), Executive Bourbon Steward (2017), Whiskey Warrior Award Winner (May '17), Founding Member Jefferson's Bourbon Ambassador Program (2017), Barrel Selection Committee Member for New Orleans Bourbon Festival, New Orleans Bourbon Festival Legends of Bourbon Committee Member, Bourbons Bistro & Total Wine Barrel Selection Committee Member & Kentucky Colonel (2016).
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