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Beyond Bordeaux Releases

JOSEPH PHELPS
BIBI GRAETZ

Continuing with the Bordeaux Place releases of wines from 'Beyond Bordeaux', today sees the excellent new vintages from Californian classic, Joseph Phelps and Tuscan rebel, Bib Graetz. These were two of my standout producers at last weeks tasting of the 'Beyond Bordeaux' wines. 

You can see all the wines released to date and check anticipated release date for the others here

 

2019 Joseph Phelps, Insignia

£1152.00 per 6 Bot Case, in bond

Much more expressive and complex compared to the backward, masculine Backus Vineyard (which is common when comparing these two cuvées), the 2019 Insignia offers a gorgeous perfume of crème de cassis, chocolate, lavender, dried flowers, tobacco, and leafy herbs. Possessing full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless texture, gorgeous tannins, and just a classy, balanced character, this beauty is going to shine with just 3-4 years of bottle age yet still cruise in cold cellars for 30 years. It actually reminds me slightly of the 1997.
96-98 points Jeb Dunnuck

The 2019 Insignia is composed of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. The vineyard sources this year include: 32% Yountville (Oak Knoll District), 23% Banca Dorada (Rutherford), 14% Suscol (South Napa Valley), 14% Home Ranch (St. Helena), 12% Las Rocas (Stags Leap District), 3% Barboza (Stags Leap District) and 2% El Venadito (Oak Knoll District). The wine is aging for 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a little swirling to unlock a gorgeous perfume of black cherry compote, stewed plums and blackcurrant pastilles with hints of bay leaves, red roses, underbrush and pencil lead plus a hint of menthol. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers impactful black fruit preserves layers with finely grained tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and layered.
96-98 points Lisa Perotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate

Enticing aromas of slow roasted meats, overlaid with passion fruit and fudge. The broad, expansive palate possesses plenty of grip and dry extract. It is classically proportioned, with excellent balance, polished tannins and a ripe core of vibrant fresh black fruits. The impressively long, refined finish has a note of bergamot. Drink Now-2044+
97 points Simon Quinn, VinQuinn    


 

2019 Joseph Phelps, Cabernet Sauvignon

£342.00 per 6 Bot Case, in bond

Starting with the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, which is a no-brainer cuvée in most vintages, it reveals a dense purple hue to go with classic Napa Cabernet notes of ripe blackcurrants, scorched earth, lead pencil, chalky minerality, and a touch of spice box. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and beautifully balanced, with silky tannins, it's a classic, concentrated, yet elegant style of Cabernet Sauvignon that will deliver the goods for two decades if properly stored. It way over-delivers. The blend is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Malbec, aged 18 months in just under 50% new French and American oak. 2021-2041
92 points Jeb Dunnuck

This has a full nose, with savoury, earthy aromas. The palate is equally savoury and finishes with roasted meats and a hint of iodine. Highly polished tannins, mineral notes and plenty of pure, ripe bramble flavour. Long and engaging. There's lots going on here. Now-2039+
95 points Simon Quinn, VinQuinn    


 

2020 Bibi Graetz, Testamatta

£408.00 per 6 Bot Case, in bond

100% Sangiovese

Gloriously jewel-like in colour, understated joyful frame flowing with juicy black cherry, raspberry, mandarin peel, fresh acidities and bounce. Everything feels in high definition, continuing the evolution of Testamatta from its earliest years. Softly brushed tannins that are barely there, extremely easy to recommend, you are going to want to share this wine. Harvest September 24 to October 25, taking things slowly. From a range of plots set at 400m to 600m altitude across Tuscany, with vines that head up to 80 years old. Natural yeasts, manual punch downs, 10 days maceration and barrel ageing with no new oak. 2023-2035
97 points Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch. 2023-2043
95 points Monica Larner, Wine Advocate

The restrained nose has an enticing cherry cola character. The palate displays pronounced salinity, accompanied by plentiful fresh, ripe red fruits and mouth watering acidity. There's firm grip and this will definitely benefit from cellaring. Drink 2025-2040
95 points Simon Quinn, VinQuinn




 

2020 Bibi Graetz, Testamatta

£519.00 per 3 Bot Case, in bond

100% Sangiovese

A reliably brilliant Colore, full of life, generosity and pleasure. This is perfumed and nuanced, plenty of sage, liqourice root, white pepper, dried roses and campfire soot, against a pristine set of raspberry, damson and fresher redcurrant and greengage fruits. Concentration builds slowly through the palate to show slightly higher tannic grip that Testamatta - although one of the things I enjoy about the Graetz wines is that both Testamatta and Colore have their distinct characters, but it is never clear which one is the 'better' wine. Colore comes from the oldest vineyards of Sangiovese that stretch from 80 to 130 years old, harvested slowly and methodically by going up to eight times through the rows to ensure the right level of maturity before picking - obsessional winemaking that bears results in the glass. 2024-2038
97 points Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

The Bibi Graetz 2020 Colore is a pure expression of Sangiovese all sourced from old vines that are carefully selected in various parts of Tuscany. Much of the fruit comes from a high elevation and cool site in Lamole, or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the lovely depth and complexity that comes through in the Colore. Compared to his other wine Testamatta, this wine has seen fewer stylistic changes over the years, and the goal has always been elegance and finesse. Colore boasts a pretty luminous quality with dark fruit aromas and wild berry. There are hints of licorice and mint as well. Mineral flavors and bright acidity are what set Colore apart. 2023-2045
96 points Monica Larner, Wine Advocate

A brooding nose of cherry and roses. This has more flesh and depth than the Testamatta; feeling supple and confident, pure and delicate. Cherry confit and fresh ginger feature on the elegantly sophisticated palate. Irresistible now but will benefit from cellaring. Drink 2025-2040+
97 points Simon Quinn, VinQuinn




 

 

 

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