African Safari Update: May 2022

From the Editor's Desk

My one-word review of Uganda?  Vivid.  Just like it says in the dictionary:  Intensely deep and bright and producing powerful feelings and strong, clear images.  There’s nothing standard, neutral or monochrome about Uganda.  It is larger than life, bursting with energy, color and vitality, with simply spectacular diversity on every level:  the people, the countryside, the animals and birds and of course the primates.

On my recently concluded trip to the country, I was particularly blown away by the beautiful scenery, the chimpanzees (at both Kibale and Kyaninga), and - no surprise - the gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.    Most of all though, the friendliness and spontaneity of the people shone through, just like on my first visit, some ten years ago.  Some things never change.   Something that was different?  The roads were much better - what a relief!  

The chimps of Kibale and Kyaninga

So many places and experiences vie for the ‘best of the best’  award on a Uganda trip.  I think for me, this time, it was undoubtedly the chimpanzees.  On my first trip to Uganda some 10 years ago, I struggled mightily to see them well.  In Kibale Forest we were literally running after them and they were mostly just dark blobs high up against the tree canopy.  This time around?  Totally the opposite.  We could not have asked for better sightings of the chimps at Kibale and also - unexpectedly - at Kyaninga Gorge.  I came away from this trip with literally dozens of good chimpanzee photographs.  Any visitor - particularly one keen on photography - would have been thrilled with the experience.  

The mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

A close second for ‘best of the best’ honors?  The gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. We trekked the Habinyanja family group in the Buhoma sector of the park, from Gorilla Forest camp.  I rated the hike as tough but doable by most people with good mobility and a degree of stamina. Certainly the effort was worth the results which were superb views - in a small clearing in broad daylight - of  about 10 or so members of the family of just over 20 in total.  Most extraordinarily, we were witnesses to the silverback gorilla mating with one of the female members of the troop.  Right in front of us.   I later spoke to Phil Ward, a long-time director of Uganda-based Classic Africa Safaris who said that he had never witnessed anything like this in the many dozens of gorilla treks which he’s been part of over the years in both Rwanda and Uganda.  Special indeed.   

Hiking the Ivy Trail from Buhoma to Nkuringo

Another memorable activity was the 4-hour Ivy Trail hike within Bwindi impenetrable forest, from Buhoma to the southern Nkuringo sector.  As I remarked to Classic Africa Safaris’ Lyndsay Harshman, who accompanied us for much of the trip, a walk through a gorgeous primary forest like this one, is a tonic for the soul.  Although it was muddy - good boots essential - the first part of the trail was really more of a stroll through a beautiful forest than a serious hike. The environment was spectacular with giant trees shielding us from direct light, creating the typical interior forest gloom.  The soft light with few shadows is perfect for photography.  Towards the end of the hike the trail goes steadily uphill and at that altitude, in excess of 6,000 feet above sea level, you will be huffing and puffing, no doubt.  But all good, as the next stop - for us - was the simply divine Cloud’s Lodge.  Which has one of the most stupendous views of any property in Africa.  

Outing to the top of Murchison Falls

Visiting the top of Murchison Falls is probably one of the most underrated experiences in Uganda.   This was my second time seeing it, and it was no less impressive.  Being this close to the fury of the entire Nile River exploding through a narrow gap in a rocky gorge is just flat-out amazing! I marveled at the fantastic power of nature in this raw and 100% unspoiled display of force and violence. It gets better and better as you get closer to the top – observing mountains of water crashing downwards with a thunderous roar is mesmerizing. One viewpoint is better than the next; there are some overlook points with superb views over the adjacent Uhuru Falls as well. I really rate this experience to be every bit as impressive as Victoria Falls.  It is very different though as there is no huge curtain of water and the drop itself is not that high. However it is the proximity and the unbelievable force that practically shakes the rocks you are standing on, that does it for me. Emerging at the top, after a quick drenching from the spray at the Devil’s Cauldron overlook, we were greeted by a couple of rangers.  There was almost nobody else around.  No curio sellers, no soft-drink dispensers, just the powerful sound of the water behind and below you. 

Taking a trip to Uganda

What is the most compelling reason to select Uganda for a gorilla trek?  It’s simple.  A gorilla trek permit for Uganda is less than half the price of a permit in Rwanda.  $700 per permit (one hour with the gorillas from first contact) in Uganda versus $1,500 per permit in Rwanda.  It is easy to include a couple of chimpanzee treks in your Uganda trip as well, for an unrivaled primate experience.  The cost of the chimpanzee permit is $200.  Include a few days in Murchison Falls or Queen Elizabeth National Park - for surprisingly good game-viewing - and you’ll end up with an array of diverse experiences which is next to impossible to duplicate anywhere else. Please call or email us for some trip suggestions and pricing.  

INTRODUCING THE FISH EAGLE SAFARIS TEAM

Kathy Duplessis

When she retired from Rice University’s Development and Alumni Relations department a few years ago, Kathy joined us here at Fish Eagle Safaris primarily because she thought our business systems needed improvement. And she liked the travel perks.  Kathy is the only member of our team who wasn’t born in South Africa.  However, she lived in Pretoria and Johannesburg in the 1980’s and traveled extensively in southern Africa during that time.  She did not stop traveling to Africa when her family moved back to Texas in 1990.  Her safari travels have taken her to South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Republic of the Congo-Brazzaville, Kenya, Tanzania, Zanzibar, Rwanda, Madagascar, Mozambique, and Lesotho. 

Kathy’s favorite animals include – all of them!  From elephants and giraffes to gorillas and birds.  Her #1 piece of advice is to make sure you don’t overlook the small animals, birds, plants and trees and to always bring a good pair of binoculars.  Kathy learns something new each time which she attributes to knowledgeable and professional guides.

If you need a female’s perspective on safari travel – ask Kathy.  No question is too silly.   Yes, our safari duffel bags are small but did you know the majority of safari camps will do your laundry – daily? So, pack light.

Most recently Kathy traveled to Tanzania during the green season and loved the walk along the rim of the iconic Ngorongoro Crater, followed by the southern Serengeti plains! Kathy’s love affair with Africa continues, filled with bush breakfasts, night and day game drives, incredible sundowners and evenings filled with the call of lions and hyenas.

Kathy was just recently recognized at the highest level when she received the Meritorious Service Award from Rice University at the 2022 Laureates Awards Celebration. We celebrate with her! 

Fish Eagle Safaris Flight Reviews - Part 3

Kenya Airways business class JFK to Nairobi r/t

Kenya Airways gets the ‘trying hard’ award for their business class experience from JFK to Nairobi.  Last February, the check-in at JFK was friendly and efficient.  In April, it was no less friendly but super slow.  On both occasions, I spent the previous night at the nearby TWA Hotel, having to make my way from terminal 5 to terminal 4 on JFK airport’s efficient AirTrain. Fortunately, the AirTrain allows passengers to roll on trolleys and Smarte Cartes. There was absolutely no way I could have carried my luggage any other way. 

After checking in and going through security - never a great experience at JFK -  I had some time to kill.  A good 15 to 20 minutes of that was taken up simply walking to and back from the Delta Sky Club which is completely on the other side of Terminal 4.  To its credit, the Sky Club offered a solid array of beverages, snacks, a hot meal buffet with many breakfast and lunch items - and it had several open tables.  

Kenya Airways’ business class seats on the Boeing 787 Dreamliner which they use on this route, are not in the same category as the Middle Eastern carriers like Qatar.  The business class section is divided into two cabins, in front of and behind the galley, with three and two rows, respectively.  Each with a 2-2-2 configuration.  The flat-bed seats have soft blankets and pillows and I had no issues adjusting the seat from upright to lie-flat mode, later on.  There was enough storage space.  The power outlets in the middle console were not super easy to reach.  There is no divider between the two middle seats.

The food and beverage service was enthusiastic but the fare suffered from being rather bland and unimaginative.  I remember thinking that Kenya Airways would do well to get a caterer like the one used by Airlink, a regional airline in Southern Africa.   The dinner meal - which was served an hour or so after take-off, had a choice of two starters and three main courses (the usual beef, chicken and pasta options) and dessert.  Nothing really stood out and the breakfast - served before landing in Nairobi - was likewise forgettable.  

Unfortunately two of my Kenya Airways flights on the February trip (Nairobi to Kilimanjaro and the return flight from Nairobi to JFK), were delayed for seven and five hours, respectively.  I had to spend far too many hours in the Simba Lounge in the rather dismal Terminal 1A at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.  The business class lounge is really nothing special but it did offer a number of choices for dinner (buffet style), soft drinks and snacks.  On the return from Kenya to the USA I was rerouted via Amsterdam (on Kenya Airways) and then in a Delta One suite from AMS to Atlanta, with a convenient connection back to Houston.  Kenya Airways customer service was responsive and it was relatively simple to have my flights changed.   In April, all of my flights (JFK to NBO r/t and NBO to Entebbe r/t) were on time.  

The Role of Tourism in Combating Poverty

On a rainy day in Entebbe in mid-April I took a boat trip on Lake Victoria to visit the Mabamba Swamps where two local guides helped me find the enigmatic and much sought after Shoebill stork.  Right at the top of the list of ‘must see’ birds in Africa.  I took my photos, waiting for the bird to look directly at us in order to capture the two yellow eyes side by side.  It was a memorable experience, every bit as good as the first time I saw a Shoebill, some ten years ago. 

As much as I will remember that moment and replay it in my mind for probably years to come, the Shoebill was not what I will remember most about that day.  Rather, it was driving through a poor neighborhood of Entebbe, en route to the jetty from which the boat departed.  Poverty is not something most of us are confronted with on a daily basis.  We know it exists out there somewhere but we are simply so busy living our own lives that we don’t dwell on it or give it any serious thought.

On this day, being driven from my guesthouse to the shore of Lake Victoria, there was no escaping it.  Makeshift shacks, grime, trash, people eking out a living some way, somehow - it was all there, right up close and painfully obvious.  Followed by the depressing realization that many people - due to circumstances beyond their control - live under those conditions for their entire lives.  Just too many children, and too few educational opportunities.  Only a fortunate few manage to escape the intractable cycle of poverty.  

Upon reflection later in the day it dawned on me that my modest little outing to the Mabamba Swamps had a positive impact on many levels, starting with the destination management company who handled the reservation for me, and extending to the owner and staff of the guest house where I was staying, the speed boat owner and skipper, the two local guides in their kayaks who got me close to the Shoebill, and the driver-guide who took me from the hotel to the jetty and back. And of course indirectly to their families and dependants. 

Sustainable tourism - the kind that is committed to making a low impact on the environment and local culture - plays an important role in combating poverty, by bringing  jobs  and wealth  to communities that would otherwise remain poor.  As demonstrated by my Shoebill outing, sustainable tourism can provide jobs for people with little or no formal education or training, like the Shoebill scouts.  Many jobs in the tourism industry, such as in food service, conservation and hospitality require low entry level skills.   As a result, tourism’s impact on reducing poverty is both positive and significant.

What is more, sustainable tourism can provide funding for conservation and create incentives to preserve natural areas. The Mabamba Swamps is a good example.  The ongoing demand from bird-watchers to be taken out into the swamps to see the rare Shoebill Storks, and thereby contributing to the local economy, may in the long term help to preserve the habitat from human encroachment and disturbance.  I was told that even though the number of Shoebills in the area was relatively low - about nine or ten of them - it was a stable population.  

Considering traveling to Africa this year or next?

If you are considering an Africa trip for the summer of 2023, our best advice is to start putting some dates to your trip soon, as space for the prime months of June through September and October is filling up fast.  If you don’t have to make plans that far in advance, there is still availability at some choice properties in Botswana and Zimbabwe for this summer.  The month of June heralds the start of the best time to travel to much of Southern and East Africa, with cooler temperatures and optimal game-viewing.   

One of our all time favorite destinations - Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana - has a special 6-night offer in place for the remainder of 2022 and 2023, starting from $3,350 p.p. sharing per night, with no premium for high season months.  Six nights split between two camps in the eastern and western sectors of the reserve, such as Mashatu Tented Camp and Tuli Safari Lodge.  The rates include accommodation, meals, all drinks, and two guided game drives (or an optional foot safari) per day. The cost of flights to Mashatu is extra.  At half the price of comparable Northern Botswana camps, there is no better value proposition than this one.  Mashatu is currently one of the top big cat destinations in Southern Africa and most guests who spend six nights in the area are likely to get great views of lions, leopards and cheetahs.  Plus excellent elephant viewing, plenty of giraffes, kudu, eland and many other smaller mammals and birds.  We would suggest combining a Mashatu stay with a few more days in South Africa, Zimbabwe or Zambia.  Please call or email for details and recommendations.