A National Park for North-East Wales? - Progress Report 

The CR and DV Partnership Board recently received an update from Carole Rothwell and Lyndsey Rawlinson from Natural Resources Wales who stressed that the designation process was now a matter for NRW to progress rather than Welsh Government. Under the aegis of its Protected Areas Committee, a National Park Designation Project has been established with its own project team, the members of which are now being appointed. The team will report to a Project Board and Views hopes our AONB team will be represented on this, given the invaluable advice they can offer.

One of the early tasks of that team will be to look at the overall area to be designated, bearing in mind that the existing Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB is regarded as too small by national park standards. Clearly, that area already fulfils the requirements contained in the 1949 Act in terms of natural beauty and landscape quality. It also needs to pass the additional national park test of providing opportunities for open air recreation, both in terms of character and position in relation to centres of population. Any added areas, the northern Berwyn perhaps the most obvious, will need to fulfil both aspects.

The first task must surely be the need to quickly define and confirm the total area to be considered for designation. Then the evidence base for this can be demonstrated, in recreational terms for the existing AONB area, and landscape quality, natural beauty and recreation for the total area proposed. We hope that, once the project team is established, speedy progress can be made. When clear proposals emerge, there will be a period of public consultation and the importance of getting wide support from both residents and visitors will be vital. With national parks having responsibility for planning decisions within their area, this is likely to be a crucial aspect in that process. 

The decision regarding designation is for the NRW Board to make in the first instance. It will make a recommendation to Welsh Government who will then consider what further steps may be needed before final confirmation and creation. So, some way to go then but at least the work has now started in earnest! We look forward to giving our readers further updates as soon as developments are publicly available including, of course, the all- important geographic area the proposed designation will include. Watch this space!!

Leading the project at that time was the AONB’s Access Officer Lucy Bick. Lucy sadly died of cancer at the age of 30, an event which deeply affected all her colleagues at that time. We are privileged to have been given permission to reproduce here a picture of Lucy with the original waymarker. With the passage of time, it had become unstable and, in honour of Lucy, the new slate artwork has taken up position on the ODP. Both old and new were sourced locally from Berwyn Quarry and designed to reflect local stone boundary markers. The AONB will find an alternative use for the original, perhaps converting it into a bench to be placed at a suitable location.

Llangollen Green Infrastructure

The AONB has just published an illustrated guide to the Llangollen Green Infrastructure (GI) Opportunities which is available free from its Loggerheads or Llangollen offices. The Guide draws on learning from the AONB’s 2021 publication “Landscape and Nature Recovery in a Changing Climate. It is an opportunities mapping exercise to spark discussion and action on Green Infrastructure from both a community grass roots level and a strategic level. The aspiration is that the guide will provide a kicking off point for positive action around the town, increasing the GI assets Llangollen holds into the future.

Developed in consultation with the local community and led by the AONB’s climate change lead Tom Johnstone, the Guide identifies six well known locations in the town and how they would benefit from GI additions. The locations are linked together by a GI route, a mainly traffic free green corridor which should encourage active travel.

The guide provides a thoughtful analysis of the existing situation in the town, sets out the basic principles necessary to provide a joined-up network of green spaces which benefit the local ecosystem and, most importantly, recommends improvements which would realise the Guides GI objectives. These include ecological improvements like tree and wildflower meadow planting and improved facilities such as path and signage improvements and sustainable drainage systems.

The Guide marks the start of a longer-term objective of creating a more sustainable Llangollen. Apart from the local authority, NRW and the AONB, several local organisations and businesses have already signalled their approval of the guide, including the town council and Llangollen Friends of the Earth. It’s also good to see Ysgol Dinas Bran pledging its full support as the involvement of the next generations is essential.

An important first step then and we keenly look forward to further progress reports as the initiative takes shape.

Trig Pillars

There’s an interesting article on Trig Point pillars in the latest issue of Walk, the Ramblers magazine. We have, of course, featured our AONB pillars in previous editions on Views. There should be fifteen in all, but the pillars on our highest point, Moel Fferna, and on northerly Moel Maenefa, are no longer to be found. All the more important then, that the remaining examples of this fascinating and much-loved historical feature are celebrated and protected by the AONB.

Nowadays modern technology has overtaken the Pillars’ original purpose as the centre points of a mapping triangulation system, introduced in 1935, which formed the basis of the national grid system we all find so useful in our recreational rambling.  They provided interlinked platforms for accurate measuring between fixed points, and a secure mounting point for sensitive equipment.

Pillars are usually a flat-topped concrete obelisk typified by the example on Moel Famau but there are exceptions. Some are built of local stone and in Scotland there are some taller cylindrical pillars of a different design known as Vanessas for some reason – one of which we picture here. Originally there were over 6500 pillars and over 6000 remain, despite losses to factors like housing development, changing farming practices and coastal erosion. Let’s make sure we don’t lose any more of the AONB’s precious and much-loved stock.

Many thanks to Walk Magazine for some of the details included here.

Footnote – Great to see the Urdd celebrating its centenary this year and to acknowledge that the first branch or Adran was established by Marian Williams in the Flintshire village of Treuddyn, just outside the AONB and visible from many points within it. A hundred years later over 4 million children and young people have enjoyed cultural, sporting, humanitarian, residential and volunteering activities, and the organisation has become an integral part of Welsh life.

CHANGING VALUES IN THE COUNTRYSIDE?

It's strange how perceptions of countryside protection have changed since I was young.  In those days man made structures were, by and large, considered undesirable excrescences to be removed or shielded by trees, or blown up.

Of course there were exceptions. Anything which caused wonder was pretty safe. Hence Pontcysyllte and its canal;  and of course the Taj Mahal.  We must all have wondered how Telford got the levels so accurate; and how ever did they get the beautiful proportions of the onion dome, with lumps of marble and wooden scaffolding, in the mid 17th century!

But those were deliberate efforts to build something which was elegant, beautiful and useful. "Spoil"caused by men's labour was different. It was thought ugly and a Blot On The Landscape (Does anyone remember that TV series!)  I remember the hasty way that gun emplacements and Nissen huts on the North Downs were cleared away at the end of the last war. And a good thing too, I thought as I rode past on my bike.

How different today. UNESCO has designated "The Slate Industry of North Wales" a World Heritage Site. I went recently to a talk arranged by the Conwy Branch of CPRW , from David Gwyn, who put together the arguments to support the application.  

The designation covers five sites in Snowdonia including Blaenau Festiniog and Bethesda. 

To persuade the Inspectors at UNESCO, he came up with some criteria for designation, starting with a working definition of a "Quarrying Landscape": At the very least, he said,  it must "extract stone (granite, limestone, marble, sandstone, slate and others) from its geological formation for whatever purpose, in a quarry." Sounds fairly obvious, but it needs to be said. I expect we will shortly be defining "What is a National Park!"

In addition, there will probably be evidence at the site of how the stone was extracted, and of how it was transported off-site. And there may be buildings, monuments, sculpture and so on, also on the site or adjacent to it. And there may be evidence of how a community was formed and how the workers were cared for by the quarry owners, for good or sometimes not so good. All these things must be considered and their "heritage" importance assessed.

Then David posited that "The slate landscape of Northwest Wales exhibits an important interchange of human values, particularly in  the heyday period from 1780 to 1940, on developments in architecture and technology." 

And then the crunch statement to support designation:

The Slate Landscape of Northwest Wales is an outstanding example of a type of landscape which illustrates, in a dramatic way, the combined works of nature and of man through the large-scale exploitation of natural resources.

I think that sentence probably clinched it. Outstanding,  Dramatic and Large Scale these slate quarries certainly are!

 How curious that "Heritage" has now trumped "Beauty" in our perception of landscape value!  

Mike Skuse

Of the latter, editor David Kirk comments : 'This journey appears to have been made primarily to study Scottish plants and animals but the book demonstrates Pennant's interest in humanity which became the most rewarding feature of his future tours'. He was accompanied on the Scottish and Welsh horse-back tours by his 'worthy servant' Moses Griffith, a self-taught artist. Pennant encouraged Griffith's study of drawing and engraving and thus solved the problem of illustration which many earlier and later travel writers chose to ignore. Many of his fine drawings are reproduced in the book, most of them being accurate landscapes rather than the exaggerated topography of most of his contemporaries.

I quote a couple of his impressions of 'our' AONB as follows. He has this to say of what today is known as Y Gop or The Gop, 'From the town (Trelawnyd - DS) I ascended the hill called Copa'r Goleuni, on whose summit is a most enormous carnedd or tumulus formed of lime stones. It was probably the site of a specula or exploratory tower and memorial of some chieftain. The tract from thence to Caerwys was certainly a field of battle; no place in North Wales exhibits an equal quantity of tumuli. It will not be too hazardous a conjecture to suppose that in this place was the slaughter of the Ordovices by Agricola. Part of the brow of the hill Bryn y Saethau or the hill of the arrows, from being the station of the archers in the engagement'.

Pennant was dismissive of Llangollen but not of its surroundings: 'Llangollen is a small and poor town seated in a most romantic spot near a pretty common watered by the Dyfrdwy which runs with great passion through the valley. The mountains soar to a great height above their wooded bases and one, whose summit is crowned with the ancient castle Bran, is uncommonly grand. I know of no place in northern Wales where the refined lover of picturesque scenes can give a fuller indulgence to his inclination. No place abounds more with various rides or solemn walks'.

His further accounts of what is now the AONB are rather more prosaic. He tells at length the story of Owain Glyndwr, touches on Valle Crucis and refers quaintly to the 'Berwyn Alps'. The forays much deeper into Wales and the Marches are very interesting. In David Kirk's opinion, 'The result was not merely a classic work in itself but a reference text for several generations of later travel writers, few of whom troubled to acknowledge their source'.

Thereafter, Pennant was a prolific writer on zoology and travel until his health began to fail in 1793. He died on 16 December 1798, at the age of 72 and was buried near the altar in Whitford Church. The grave of Pennant’s illustrator, Moses Griffith, is in the north wall of the same church. 

Cymdeithas Thomas Pennant  (the Thomas Pennant Society) was formed in 1989/90, its main objective being to perpetuate and enhance the name and contribution of Thomas Pennant locally, and develop projects to establish that this area in Flintshire should become known as Pennant Country. Although unsuccessful with this suggestion, the society was responsible for the siting of a memorial stone opposite the East Lychgate of Whitford Church in 2004. Its website seems not to have been updated for several years, so I am unsure if it is still active.

Downing Hall suffered a fire in 1922 which seriously damaged the structure. It was never rebuilt and was demolished in 1953. In May 2022, the 26 acre estate, including a Grade II Listed cottage, was on the market for £1.25m. The ruins of the hall and what are described as the 'intact labyrinthine cellars' beneath it are included in the sale.

There is an extensive account of Tennant's life on Wikipedia, also an entry for Griffith. As usual with Wiki, the references to supporting documents encourage further research.

Meet the Team – Ffion Roberts

A real people person, this Ffion achieves on a daily basis with enthusiasm and cheerful good humour. It was great to have the chance to find out a little more over a cup of coffee at Plas Newydd. This is how our conversation went :-

Tell me a little about how things started

Well I was born in Caernarfon to a Welsh speaking family but we moved to Mold when I was seven with my father’s job and I went to Glanrafon and then Maes Garmon Schools. I really enjoyed that but spent my sixth form at the then Wrexham Tech as I wanted something a little different. My real interest then was archaeology, but sound advice was hard to come by in those days and I didn’t get the chance to pursue that line. Instead, I moved to London and studied for a sociology degree in what is now the London Metropolitan University. It was a daunting time in some ways but also very exciting!

What happened next?

I had many thoughts – about social work, about teaching – but chance found me undertaking several different roles in the private sector where I gained a lot of very valuable experience still relevant in what I do now day to day. By this time, I had got to know my now husband, Rob, and we both began to feel that London was not where we wanted to settle down and bring up a family. The pull of my home area was very strong and my mum was originally from Garth above the Dee Valley. We found a small cottage there and, all these years and several additions and improvements later, we’re still there! It’s been the perfect place for us and our two daughters, Florence and Eliza, though both of them have gravitated to London too for the time being.

You obviously settled back well!

Yes, and apart from bringing up the girls I was fortunate to find work in Llangollen Library. As well as that side of the work we also gave advice on the range of services Denbighshire Council was able to provide. I met so many interesting people and felt very much part of the community. After fifteen years though I needed a fresh challenge. I missed the advert for the OPL role the first-time round, but they weren’t able to appoint. I was lucky enough to get the job when it was readvertised.

It's certainly been a very successful project but with many challenges.

Yes, I think the Project has more than fulfilled its objectives despite the difficulties caused by Covid, not to mention the happy circumstances which have led to some team changes! I’ve really enjoyed supporting the work Kate has done in so many creative ways – the work around Pontcysyllte, the walking trails in Llangollen, the work to connect habitats and so on. A particular favourite of mine as a would-be archaeologist was the work on the gatehouse at Dinas Bran! (see pic). Most importantly, as someone who lives in the local community, I’m proud of the work the project has done to bring people together and to enthuse our young people about all the area has to offer.

Any particular challenges for you?

Well, for all of us the accountability issue is crucial. We need to demonstrate to the AONB team and Denbighshire/Wrexham that we are achieving the initial aims of the Project and developing these in the light of our experience on the ground. Then there’s the vital need to satisfy our assessors from the Heritage Lottery Fund. Their financial input has been essential, of course, and it’s understandable that they are rigorous in their examination of our progress in meeting agreed objectives. I’m glad to have been able to add a financial dimension to my work which I believe has helped the team. We’re so grateful too for the help we receive from DCC’s finance officers and our AONB colleagues across the board.

What next?

The Project still has some time to run, and we still have much to concentrate on. When the time comes, I’ll be more than ready for a new challenge strengthened by all I’ve learned from my work with the OPL. I’ve certainly enjoyed working for the AONB and it’s an area of work which I’d welcome staying involved with.

What about activity away from work?

Family life has always been of first importance and extending and improving our home in Garth has been a joy. Rob is very practical and hands on which has meant we haven’t been afraid to get stuck in. I love the garden and spend much of my time there. I also have a group of lively girlfriends and we’ve climbed some interesting mountains and enjoyed a few adventures together!

You’ll know I always ask this – what’s your favourite spot in the AONB? 

A difficult one but, given where we live, I have to say that I love the Eglwyseg – a great place to walk our cocker spaniel!

It was time to let Ffion get back to her tasks for the day. As usual I’d received another demonstration of the pride and enthusiasm our AONB team bring to their daily work.

Keep your eyes open 

Walkers are observant people, they follow their favourite routes and enjoy the passage of the seasons, the blooming of wildflowers, the nesting of birds and, of course, the weather. Walkers in the Clwydian range and throughout the AONB also enjoy a geologically and historically very rich landscape. Maybe you have passed a grassy pile of stones in a field and thought nothing of it, or perhaps you have asked yourself ‘I wonder what that was?’ The dip in the field may be modern drainage and not a prehistoric ditch, the little mound may be a geological feature and not an Iron-Age burial. However, could its shape, its location or its proximity to known sites make it of potential historical or archaeological interest?

Walkers’ observations are important because they see the same landscape in wet and dry weather, planted, mown or wild, in all light conditions. They may not appreciate what an intimate knowledge they have of the landscape. What a walker takes for granted may be precious information unavailable to others, So, if you have seen features in the landscape that you think may be worth the attention they have escaped so far, the Clwydian Range Archaeology Group (CRAG) would like to hear from you. 

It would be useful to have a record of sites that have aroused the curiosity of walkers. Maybe something would emerge from such records that will make further investigation worthwhile or reveal a site worthy of excavation in the future. So, if something in your walks has stimulated your interest and you think, ‘there might be something there’, do let us know. It is even worthwhile discovering that a feature is not interesting! (Info@cragnorthwales.co.uk)

Robert Moore

WOODLAND SKILLS CENTRE VISIT

Friends members recently enjoyed a fascinating visit to the Woodland Skills Centre above Bodfari where they were welcomed by its founder and inspiration, Rod Waterfield. Rod was working as a teacher in Flintshire but bought a house and some land in the area and was keen to put something back into the community. He strongly believed in the concept of managed woodland to support both ground flora and insect life through the provision of a variety of habitats. So began the establishment of a vibrant social enterprise with self-sustainable environmental and economic goals and which has been a great success.

The Centre is a not-for-profit venture which is now community owned and strives to engage with a broad clientele, concentrating on providing opportunities in the countryside for both children and adults with special needs or who are socially disadvantaged. Set in a fifty-acre site in the heart of the AONB, its predominant woodland is complemented by a tree nursery, wildflower meadows, an apiary, arboretum, heritage orchard and even a vineyard. 

The Centre has gained a number of awards over the years with acclaim received from both the Royal Forestry Society and the Royal Welsh. It has won several green flag awards and a “Bee Friendly” designation from Welsh Government. It also provides a programme of live music, drama, poetry, and storytelling in the woods.

Underpinning all this is the sheer variety and ingenuity of the courses on offer. There are green woodworking and coppice craft offerings, a range of traditional craft courses, bushcraft and very popular willow work and basket making, which we were able to see at first hand. In addition, hands on courses are available in woodland and countryside management including practical activities such as chainsaw use and hedge laying. 

Mindfulness and well being is also on the agenda with the peace and tranquillity of the Centre and its surrounds providing an ideal setting. There are opportunities for volunteers to go along and help too, and a growing demand for overnight and longer stays for participants to take full advantage of the range of facilities and courses on offer. Friends were delighted with the enthusiastic and informative talk from Rod, which was followed by a closer look at the activities on offer. A most enjoyable occasion.

Christine Evans

Nature Networks Funding secured to tackle Invasive species in North Wales

North Wales Wildlife Trust have successfully secured Welsh Government Nature Networks Funding (NNF), administered by National Lottery Heritage Fund, for 2 INNS projects based in North Wales. The work will enable the improvement of SSSI’s across North Wales following the control on invasive non-native plants.

1) Upper and Middle Dee Invasive Non-Native Species Control Project

£500,000 has been secured to undertake control of the invasive non-native plants Himalayan balsam, Japanese knotweed and American skunk cabbage on the River Dee between Corwen and Newbridge. Over 45km of river bank is within the Afon Dyfrdwy (River Dee) SSSI will be surveyed and managed for our target species in this ambitious project. The project will directly complement the upstream work carried out by the Our River Wellbeing and North Wales Resilient Ecosystem Pilot projects as well as build on the fantastic work already undertaken by our partners. The project will also fund training and equipment to enable volunteers and local groups to continue control past the life of the project.

2) North Wales Cotoneaster Control Project

£500,000 has also been secured to undertake and build upon the strategic management of invasive cotoneaster species across protected sites in North Wales. A dedicated Project Officer will lead the project to deliver the prioritisation of survey and control of invasive cotoneaster on calcareous grassland sites such as the Little Orme and Halkyn Mountain SAC. In addition, community engagement will raise awareness of the threats and impacts of invasive cotoneaster and increase volunteer participation in control and survey of priority species and cotoneaster.

Everyone can help stop the spread of invasive non-native species by using: 

• Check-Clean-Dry (https://secure.fera.defra.gov.uk/nonnativespecies/index.cfm?sectionid=98) and 

• Be Plant Wise (https://secure.fera.defra.gov.uk/nonnativespecies/beplantwise/)

Please record your sightings of Invasive Non-Native Species via the Dee INNS Cofnod webpage here: https://dinns.cofnod.org.uk/

We’d like to say a huge thank-you to those of you in the AONB area who’ve helped with our previous projects, such as Our River Wellbeing. To collaborate / get involved with these new projects, please contact: 

Kirsty Brown | Rheolwr Prosiect RhYA | INNS Project Manager

Ymddiriedolaeth Natur Gogledd Cymru | North Wales Wildlife Trust

Kirsty.Brown@NorthWalesWildlifeTrust.org.uk