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July 11, 2021

Member Profile: Floriole Cafe and Bakery
Distilling Artisan Grains  |  Baking with Muddy Fork
Kneading Equity talk tomorrow | Kernza® field days 
Look Behind the Loaf with Verzênay Pâtisserie  |  REAP's Burgers & Brew
The Kneading Conference

Hello, readers,

...and hello, July! The summer is already zipping by: small grains harvest has begun at farms and research stations throughout the region, and will be moving north and west over the next month. It's an exciting, busy, and fragrant time of year.

This week, we’re excited to bring you the story of one of AGC’s founding bakeries—a stalwart in their community and an important part of AGC’s own organizational development over the past several years. We’ve also got an update on distilled spirits research and a bunch of interesting virtual baking classes for you to consider.

Finally, a reminder to join us for our talk with Red Tomato and New Communities Monday, 7/12 at 3pm CT—scroll down to learn more, and we hope to 'see' you there!

—Alyssa Hartman, AGC Executive Director

MEMBER PROFILE: FLORIOLE CAFE AND BAKERY

Floriole Cafe and Bakery has been a fixture in Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood since 2010, but fans have been enjoying their pastries and bread via Green City Market since 2006. That’s when Sandra Holl, along with her husband, Mathieu, began their bakery journey with a commitment to following the region’s seasons for ingredients and building connections with area farmers. Becoming one of AGC’s founding members in 2016 was an extension of that dedication; local flour is just as important to Floriole's creations as fresh fruit, milk, or eggs.

And just as good ingredients make good food, employees are ingredients, too; with that in mind, Floriole takes regular stock of how to shape its work environment. Early on in her career, Sandra baked at Tartine in San Francisco, and credits that bakery with influencing her approach to creating a learning workplace. Among other things, that means offering stages—training opportunities for people interested in getting hands-on experience at a bakery or restaurant for a short period of time.

Sandra and Mathieu have long been invested in creating a business that is welcoming for women, and as awareness of systemic racism in America surged last year, that dedication deepened. To create a more equitable workplace, Floriole has moved to a transparent wage scale to ensure that team members know the pay for each position in the bakery. Sandra’s also been active in the equity work that AGC has been doing, including participating in a series of more than a dozen conversation circles with Interrogating Whiteness over the past year.

Floriole’s efforts extend to the community in many ways. When the pandemic hit and stay-at-home orders were announced, Sandra raised her voice with other bakers and chefs, calling on the governor to support the hospitality industry. And Sandra was one of the primary bakers that AGC relied upon in conceptualizing what would become the Neighbor Loaves program. Floriole’s participation in Neighbor Loaves, and the supply chain support that the effort provided, netted a notice by the James Beard Foundation; Sandra was part of their 2018 Women’s Entrepreneurial Leadership cohort. The bakery also contributed to both the Bakers Against Racism and Dough Something fundraisers/awareness campaigns in 2020-21.

And of course, Floriole’s community work centers around producing and sharing their delicious breads, pastries, and other creations. In 2018, Food and Wine recognized the bakery for making some of the best croissants in America, and on another list, stacked them among the best bread bakeries in the country. Floriole’s cafe space is currently undergoing renovations and not accepting orders, but when they reopen later this summer (follow their progress using the social links below, and we’ll keep you posted, too!), you can enjoy their baking through a bread subscription program. Their monthly mail-order service ships anywhere in the country, and is one of the bakery’s many pandemic-pivots. And check out their honey pecan sticky buns—a delicious offering of the Georgia pecans from New Communities that Floriole has been purchasing, and the topic of our Kneading Equity talk tomorrow, July 12th. We're also big fans of Floriole's merch, especially their ‘pro-gluten, pro-filterole, pro-secco’ t-shirts.
 

Sandra and her team at Floriole baked these apple normandy wedding cakes with Calvados-infused buttercream and apple compote filling for AGC's Alyssa Hartman, who was married in a small ceremony mid-pandemic. 
Photo by Lindsey Kathryn Photography


Sandra has been part of AGC’s Steering Committee since its inception more than three years ago, and we are immensely grateful for her service. During that time, she’s taught classes with us, hosted Bread Alone Bakery founder Dan Leader for a public talk in November 2019 when his latest book, Living Bread, arrived, and contributed in crafting the future direction for our blossoming network during a time of significant development and change. Sandra’s tenure on the Steering Committee is soon coming to a close, and we’re so appreciative for her service in that capacity. 

So, stay tuned to Floriole’s social for info on their grand re-opening, and to be nourished with beautiful grain-y photography. (Note: they’ve got a whole separate Instagram dedicated to their gorgeous cakes—it’s worth a scroll!)

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DISTILLING ARTISAN GRAINS

We’ve written before about the SARE Farmer Rancher grant awarded to Will Glazik and the rest of the crew at AGC member Cow Creek Farm last year. The project is supporting development of resources and understanding about how different kinds of open-pollinated, heritage corns perform in spirits production compared to ubiquitous yellow #2 dent corn most often used in making distilled beverages. 

On June 25, a small group of farmers, distillers, and other project stakeholders gathered at the University of Illinois Pilot Processing Plant, the grant’s research partner performing distillation and analysis, to take on one of the two primary evaluation components of the grant: human sensory analysis. The tasters sampled six varieties of white whiskey—an unaged sample—rating each out of 20:5 on the nose, 10 on the palate, and 5 on the finish.

The group is still running the numbers on the data to identify particular areas of taster preference within each corn variety, and is also awaiting results from gas and liquid chromatography on each sample, currently being analyzed by University of Illinois faculty.

Once results are aggregated, this information will be shared through AGC’s Brewing & Distilling Working Group, at area sustainable agriculture conferences, and via regional listservs. Stay tuned for more!

AN EVOLUTION OF BAKING CLASSES

We all know that the pandemic led to a fantastic increase in appreciation for baking, local flour, and baking classes. And now, we’re all realizing that many of the online experiences brought to us by quarantine are here to stay, simply by virtue of their convenience and practicality. When it comes to baking classes, AGC member Eric Schedler of Muddy Fork Farm & Bakery is no novice—since 2014 he has offered three week-long intensives at his Bloomington, IN bakery, in addition to one in-person class every month.

When Eric made the switch to teaching online last April, he was surprised to find that people really enjoyed the opportunity to work from home, using their own tools. Prior to this change born out of necessity, Eric thought that in-person experiences were essential to people physically understanding how to bake. However, from student feedback, he finds that the process is “baked-in,” so to speak, when people use their own ovens and work in their own environments. “It turns out folks viewing on Zoom can see my hands quite well,” Eric said. Some people said they’d never been able to set aside time to get to a class at the bakery, but the convenience of learning from home in 30- to 60-minute chunks of time really suits them—the pauses incorporated into the courses for resting and rising times allow for other life duties to happen in the midst of baking education.

Muddy Fork just posted their list of upcoming classes, and the in-person croissant session is already full! But there are still other chances to improve your baking skills, all from the comfort of your home. Several classes have openings: learn how to make bagels, seeded sourdough, or holiday breads like challah, babka, and Greek Cristopsomos. Eric also posts enticing teasers on Instagram—if you’re looking to begin or raise your baking game, be sure to check them out.

Leading up to our talk, Kneading Equity: Georgia Pecans in Midwest Bakeries—which happens tomorrow Monday, July 12 at 3pm CT—we have a preparatory listening opportunity to share that will provide great background. Our connection to Red Tomato (RT) and also to New Communities, is thanks in part to Ali Berlow—AGC’s communications consultant and RT board member. Ali also co-hosts the podcast What is American Food, and its latest episode dives deep into RT, the Rhode Island-based hybrid food hub and marketing agent for New Communities’ pecans. To learn more, listen to @whatisamericanfood's latest episode, ‘A Mighty Hybrid Food Hub in the Northeast.’ 

Next up in the summer series of Kernza® field days is an event on July 22nd at 5:30pm CT with AGC Steering Committee member Ben Penner, at Dan Coffman's Kernza field in St. Peter, MN. The event will feature a Kernza beer sampling from LoCale Brewing, and Kernza bread from AGC member River Rock Kitchen & Baking Company. Ben will also be discussing the latest developments with the Perennial Promise Growers Cooperative, including opportunities for farmers to join the effort. 

Don't miss the feature of AGC member Verzênay Pâtisserie in the Bread Bakers Guild of America's latest Look Behind the Loaf. Bakery owner Arshiya Farheen trained in France, and has been selling at Green City Farmers’ Market since 2014. She's now set to open a storefront operation in Chicago's Lincoln Park on July 28th, a new Floriole neighbor! Arshiya has long dreamt of creating a dessert destination like you’d find in Paris. Congratulations, Arshiya and team—we can't wait to visit!

Madison, WI-based AGC member REAP Food Group works to increase access to good food, grown well. This year they’re offering a modified version of their popular summer event, Burgers and Brew, inviting the community to pitch in with a favorite burger recipe and beer pairing. The winning combo wins $1,000—judged on taste, appearance, craveability, creativity, and use of WI ingredients; enter your selection by August 8! While you're at it, check out the 2021 Farm Fresh Atlas, REAP's curated guide to farms, farmers markets, restaurants, local food stores and more in Southern WI; the digital version is easy to use and covers the entire state.  

Canceled last year due to the pandemic, the 2021 Kneading Conference is virtual and spreads over a full week from July 26-30. AGC’s Education and Outreach Working Group Coordinator Amy Halloran is leading three sessions, including “Knitting Equity into the Grain Chain,” a roundtable on grainshed organizations like AGC, and a class on baking by touch, not tech. Learn more & register here

Photo: 2021 Kneading Conference

We value your feedback & content suggestions—
please send them to Elena Byrne, AGC Communications Manager.
See you in two weeks for our next edition!

We leave you with this closeup of healthy soil & grain ROOTS in hand from AGC member Michele Huggins of Doughp Creations, at A-Frame Farm's Kernza® field day last week:
(Nice job, Luke Peterson!)
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