Copy

Morecambe Bay Sands

Cumbrian Cistercian Way


Your pilgrimage begins with a sense of adventure as you hop into a small ferry to Piel Island. The 14th century fortress on the island was built by the Abbot of Furness Abbey to guard Barrow-in-Furness against pirates and Scots raiders: it is only accessible by boat. Quarrels over trade (and charges of smuggling) meant that the monks who lived here were not always on the best of terms with the King and didn't necessarily have his protection. Have a virtual drink at The Ship Inn – a pub unlike any other, full of the community history of the island.


Continue to Furness Abbey, a former Catholic monastery dating back to 1123. Founded by Stephen of Bois, later King of England — its red sandstone ruins are impressive. It was once the second-wealthiest and most powerful Cistercian monastery in the country (Fountains Abbey was the wealthiest) prior to its dissolution during the English Reformation. ‘Cistercian' refers to a monastic order originating in France that broke away from the Benedictines to follow the Rule of St Benedict more closely. Set your intention at the High Altar here.

Furness Abbey

Onwards to the Priapus Stone in Urwick – now a somewhat crude phallic symbol that was, long ago, used in ancient fertility rites. The people of Urswick used to decorate the stone to look like Priapus, the ancient god of fertility and son of Aphrodite. The ancient Greeks and Romans honoured him with temples and wall paintings. Up until 1920, the stone had stood upright in a field close by, but it was built into the wall by the road (below) in order that less damage might occur.

Priapus Stone, Great Urswick

Continue on to St Mary and St Michael’s Church, Great Urswick, the oldest church in the Furness area, which has probably existed on this site since the 10th century. There is a Viking cross and the Tunwinni Cross, both of which have been dated as 9th century. The figure on the north side of the chancel is St James the pilgrim, bearing the scallop shell motif.

There is a beauty and homeliness felt in the church: maybe it is the wood carvings that give it an arts and crafts feel? Or the beautiful altar painting of the Last Supper by local artist James Cranke? Cranke, by the way, did much to inspire the Dalton born artist George Romney in his early years.

Tunwinni Cross, 9th-century – St Mary and Michael, Urswick.

Climb Birkrigg Common to its Stone Circle (also known as Druids' Temple or Druids' Circle), which dates from 1700-1400 BC (Bronze Age). Its dramatic situation, perched over the Morecambe Bay expanse, heightens the spirit of this place. Walk around the circle and touch the stones before entering its centre – pause and feel your intention. Ponder whether this circle was a place for changing direction when navigating, or was it purely ceremonial?

Birkrigg Stone Circle

After walking Morecambe Sands for a while, and perhaps in a contemplative mood, you come across the peacefully situated Conishead Priory (now Manjushri Kadampa Temple). Located on Morecambe Bay overlooking Chapel Island, the temple is surrounded by woodland walkways and hosts a year-round daily schedule of regular meditations. It is also home to the World Peace Cafe, and many devotees of the Kadampa tradition (a global Buddhist new religious movement founded by Kelsang Gyatso in England in 1991). There is an unusual sense of active peace in the Temple, perhaps brought on by all the meditation which happens there.

Manjushri Kadampa Temple, Morecambe Bay © Mdbeckwith

Take a detour to Chapel Island, once known as Harlesyde Isle. In the 14th century, Augustinian canons from nearby Conishead Priory built a small chapel on the island to serve the needs of travellers and fishermen working in the Leven fisheries.

The island lies on the path of the ancient crossing from Cartmel to Conishead and would have been a place of haven to travellers caught out by the tide. Tradition describes its purpose to be the meeting for prayers with the travellers who cross the bay. Pilgrims can cross the sands, but they are notoriously dangerous and this crossing needs careful planning, and ideally local knowledge and guidance. Getting to it is definitely worth it, but no small feat. For these reasons, the train line has since replaced this foot crossing.

Chapel Island (Harlesyde Island)

Heading back towards Ulverston train station to cross over the bay to Cark, stop at Swarthmoor Hall, a mansion in Ulverston – formerly the home of Thomas and Margaret Fell, the latter an important player in the founding of the Religious Society of Friends (Quaker) movement in the 17th century. George Fox, the Founder of the Quaker movement, visited several times. The Hall remains in use today as a Quaker retreat house and a place of pilgrimage.

Swarthmoor Hall, founding house of the Quakers ©Mikelowden

Approaching the end of your journey, you arrive at Cartmel Priory, a parish church unusually large for the size of its village, and is therefore regarded as the Cathedral of the Lakes. The earliest mention of Cartmel in historical records (before sticky toffee pudding, that is) occurs almost 500 years before the foundations of Cartmel Priory were laid, when in around 680 AD, the monks of Lindisfarne took ownership of the land.

This Augustinian Priory was saved at the time of the Dissolution of the Monasteries by the granting of William Marshal’s altar in one of the Priory’s chapels. The villagers protested that the Priory was in fact their parish church, and so it remains. Spend a moment of silence in the ancient carved wooden pews in the Sanctuary reflecting on your intention before returning to normal life.

Cartmel Priory

We hope you enjoyed this week’s pilgrimage. If you want to ponder over the journey a little longer, click on our interactive map and photo page below — filled with more facts and details.

See map and all photos of the Cumbrian Cistercian Way

New BPT Guided Pilgrimage Events


Sat 11th Sep - Peak District Old Stones Way

Click to book guided pilgrimage events

BPT Archive of past emails: https://mailchi.mp/cae6608fc780/cumbrian-cistercian-way-8871645?e=[UNIQID]

Facebook iconInstagram iconTwitter icon

Copyright (C) 2021 The British Pilgrimage Trust (Registered Charity 1176045). All rights reserved.

Update Preferences | Unsubscribe

Email Marketing Powered by Mailchimp