It feels like things are slowly moving towards normal in the competition climbing world. Here are the latest updates!
Website Update
Cyber-attack Update: After the recent cyber-attack on our webhost, we are still working on rebuilding the SCBC website and restoring our data. The good news is that after a thorough investigation by authorities and data experts, our webhost has confirmed that none of the SCBC data was copied or stolen. We still recommend you update your passwords regularly, especially if you tend to use similar passwords on multiple sites. We are taking advantage of this opportunity to revamp the website and hope to have it online in the coming days.
Membership Update: As our sport struggles to get back into competition mode after 18 months with no events, the SCBC Board of Directors feel that it is important to encourage and support all our members to get back to sport. For this reason, SCBC is offering competition memberships at a reduced rate of $25 (Competitive) and $10 (Recreational) for this season.
The new SCBC website will be up SOON! (We'll let you know.)
Team BC Head Coach
SCBC is pleased to announce that Michelle Linhart has been selected as our Provincial Head Coach! Michelle will lead the BC High Performance Team Program for the 2021-22 season. Michelle currently coaches at Climb Base5 in North Vancouver and has been a climbing coach since 2009. She has coached athletes at the national and provincial levels. This is Michelle’s second term as our Provincial Head Coach. She has also served as Manager for Team BC and the Youth National Team. Michelle has already run our first ‘back-to-climbing’ camp at the Richmond Oval in August. There are several camps planned for the Gold-Silver-Bronze team BC athletes; please stay tuned for more!
Training Camp Recap
In early August, after a long hiatus, the 2019-20 Team BC Gold & Silver athletes were invited to a weekend-long camp with the primary aim being to bring us all together again. With specialized route setting shared with the CEC Open Camp the week prior, Team BC athletes had a chance to climb on a World Cup-sized lead wall, on National-level routes. The excitement and exuberance at a long-awaited reunion with friends was palpable and athletes left the weekend with fresh energy for the season ahead. We are continuing to look for opportunities to bring our athletes together ahead of the announced major events of the 2021-22 season, so stay tuned! Thanks to Head Coach Michelle for all her hard work to put the camp together and to assistant coaches Chloe Earle and Thomasina Pidgeon for helping run the day.
SCBC Performance Teams
Sport Climbing BC is excited to announce the 2021-22 Gold, Silver and Bronze team selection.
In order to align with the 2024 Olympic format, Boulder and Lead have been combined, so athletes only need to meet the criteria in one of these disciplines to make a team. Those athletes will be given development opportunities in both Boulder and Lead disciplines. Speed has been separated and has its own criteria. We have also introduced a time component for Speed as an extra way to qualify to a team regardless of final position in a competition. The Team Criteria are closely aligned with the Canadian Sport Institute Criteria. Athletes who are eligible for registration with the CSI will be notified in October.
Results from the last seasons have been used to select the athletes: 2019 for Lead and Speed and 2020 for Bouldering. If you believe that you have met a certain criteria and are not on the list or on the wrong team, please send an email with the details of the qualifying performance to spc@sportclimbingbc.ca
These are the competitions that are on the schedule to date. They are all Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC) events and more information can be found on the CEC website. SCBC will be adding local competitions into the mix as we move into the fall.
October 8-10, 2021 - NACS*, Richmond Olympic Oval - lead & speed
October 23-24, 2021 - NACS*, Altitude Gym, Kanata, Ontario - bouldering
November 27-28, 2021 - Open Boulder Nationals, Délire Escalade, Québec, QC
February 19-20, 2022 - ALL Speed Nationals, Richmond Olympic Oval
February 20-21, 2022 - Open Lead Nationals, Richmond Olympic Oval
April 15-17, 2022 - Youth Western Regionals, TBA
May 19-20, 2022 - Youth Boulder Nationals, Le Crux, Laval, QC
May 22-23, 2022 - Youth Difficulty Nationals, Canyon Escalade, La Prarie, QC
*A partnership between CEC and USA Climbing, The North American Cup Series (NACS) will feature the three individual disciplines of climbing – bouldering, speed, and lead climbing. The Series consists of five stops across North America this season. The mission of the Series is to provide a high-level competition series for advanced and elite athletes from the America’s to continue their development outside of World Cup competition. It is intended for athletes born in 2005 or earlier.
Open Boulder Nationals Selection
CEC has allotted quota spots to each PTSO for Open Boulder Nationals (November 27-28, Délire Escalade). These quota spots will be given out as follows.
Top quota spots - issued to athletes who place in the top 70% of the field at the NACS event October 23-24 at Altitude Gym in Kanata.
Remaining quota spots - issued to athletes based on their ranking at a selection event to take place in BC (details soon, this is still in the works)
Rationale: Athletes attending OBN are vying for a spot on the Open Canadian National Team. In order to achieve enough CNR points to make the NT, athletes need to also collect points by attending NACS events. Priority has therefore been given to those athletes. Note: Current CEC HPP athletes and Youth Champions have been preselected for OBN and are not part of the BC quota.
Provincial Coaching Team for National Events
SCBC is once again looking to organize a Provincial Coaching Team for all National Events in Canada. The team will be comprised of an SCBC Team Manager (Team Manager) and assistant coaches (Team Officials).
The Team Manager will be selected by SCBC as a representative of BC. Applications due by October 27th, 2021.
The Team Officials will be comprised of Club coaches; each Gym/Club may send one coach to be part of the Provincial Coaching Team. Submissions due one month before each National event.
AGM: The SCBC AGM will take place at 7pm PT on Sunday, October 17th, 2021 via Zoom. A link to the Zoom call will come out closer to this date.
Call for Nominations: SCBC is seeking nominations for election of four Directors to take office for a two-year period. All interested individuals should apply as we are looking to create a Board of Directors with a wide variety of skills and experience. Please contact registrar@sportclimbingbc.ca with any nominations for these positions prior to October 3rd. All voting will take place online from the SCBC website from October 10th to October 16th.
David, Melanie, Joanne, Terry, Brielle, Simon and Mark
Your SCBC Board
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