| |  | |  | |  | Welcome on board Midnight Trains, a company where every moment counts Here at Midnight Trains, we’re aiming to better connect the great European cities – with ‘hotels on rails’ that freshen up the good old-fashioned sleeper train. But while we wait to really welcome you on board, every Friday at midnight our newsletter will explain just how the night train could change your life (plus provide some much-needed travel inspiration). It delights us to share the news that more than 20,000 of you have now signed up to Midnight Weekly, and in this 18th edition of the newsletter, we’ll be heading to one of the most dazzling French cities of all: Nice. | |  |  | Before we head to sunnier climes, in this edition of Midnight Weekly we’ll be heading back in time to tell a thoroughly wintry story – one that inspired Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient-Express. On January 1 1934, when she published this legendary thriller, Christie could have had little idea how widely her Hercule Poirot caper would be read. It wasn’t the first time night trains had provided the backdrop to her intrigues: six years earlier she had published The Mystery of the Blue Train, another detective story very much set on the rails. But in this case, a particular event was to provide the main inspiration for her work. January 31 1929. It had been nearly half a century since the Orient-Express launched – to immediate success. But that day, nothing happened as planned. When they left Paris for Istanbul, the train’s passengers could not have imagined that they were about to live through their own version of the Raft of the Medusa, one in which they would be the principal characters. It had all gone pretty smoothly until the luxury service passed the Bulgarian border. They were just 130 kilometres from their terminus, when a storm of epic proportions hit. Snow had already piled up on the tracks. Soon, the train arrived in the village of Tcherkesskeuy (Çerkezköy), and the situation took a turn for the worst as the train was suddenly blocked, right in the middle of rural Turkey (which felt a little more like Siberia). Obviously, it was impossible to turn back: both behind and in front of them, snow was streaming down from the sky – and turning to ice. While the temperatures plummeted to -25C, the snow began to gradually submerge the train – to the extent that you could only just about make out the shape of the train thanks to the lights and steam that still managed to escape. The Orient-Express vanished, wrapped up in a white blanket. It was stopped in its tracks. And in Istanbul, the absence of the mythical train, known for its punctuality, was greeted with sceptical surprise. But then the panic really set in. On board the train, the situation was just as worrying. With no way out, the staff would do everything they could to ensure the survival of their passengers. Because of the temperatures, the water froze and they soon ran out of coal too. Some of them climbed on top of the carriage roofs to collect ice they would melt into drinking water with the help of lighters. And for their part, the locals in Tcherkesskeuy, saw in the event a sign from god. They had also heard about the status of the kinds of passengers on board, and so they saw an opportunity to sell the produce from their land and farms at ridiculous prices. After a few days stuck in the middle of nowhere, supplies ran out and even stale bread could be sold for a fortune. One British passenger, who’d brought his rifle with him, killed a wolf near the train, and the meat was dished out to others on the train. It was worlds away from the bucolic mythology surrounding the Orient-Express. Like many people, Agatha Christie read about the story in a newspaper. Pressure was growing on the various people responsible for the service, and an American snow-plough train was sent out to rescue those on board. It was to be several more days before they were able to dislodge the train from the ice that gripped it to the rails. Overall, passengers spent 12 days on board the train (compared with the usual three-day trip). And remarkably, thanks to the heroism of the staff, there were no deaths or even injuries. This train, cut off from the world for nearly half a month, would be the key inspiration for the British author, whose timeless book still dazzles today. We’ll reveal nothing of its plot or conclusion, because few pleasures beat diving in to discover the twists and turns yourself. It’s a classic for a reason, y’know. | |  |  | It’s always pretty easy writing about others. Since the launch of Midnight Trains, that’s what I’ve been doing in this newsletter: allowing you to get to know the talented team of individuals who’ve come together to make our sleeper-train company a success. However, there’s still one member of the team who I haven’t introduced yet – and that’s me, Hervé Marro, the guy who writes Midnight Weekly with the aim of putting a smile on your face every Saturday morning. But when Adrien Aumont and Romain Payet, our two co-founders, told me that we better dedicate an article to me as well, I wasn’t best pleased. I don’t like the limelight. I prefer real, natural sunlight, and especially when it lights up the sparkling Mediterranean, that magical body of water that illuminates my days whenever I return to Nice, my soul city. So I’ve essentially been tasked with writing a self-portrait. Having put it off for a little while, I’ve resolved to finally do it. Here we go. I think my life has always been driven by both a need to live out my passions, and a desire to help others. If both are possible, then even better. During my studies, when they tell you to sketch out an entire career plan, I really couldn’t. I just wanted to change the world – or at least help it become a better place. That seemed a much more exciting idea to me. So I started leading a double life during my studies. On the side of exams, I joined the support committee for Ingrid Betancourt, a politician with the Colombian green party, taken as a hostage by the Farc guerilla group. I had read her book Until Death Do Us Part, and her fight against corruption had impressed me. For six years, we banded together to fight for her freedom (along with that of the other hostages), and I was the spokesperson of that movement. It was an exhausting undertaking, but it was well worth persevering: on July 2 2008, Ingrid was at last freed. In a bizarre coincidence, that was the very same day I finished my final university exams. And so it was the time I was supposed to launch myself into that very definite career plan I was supposed to have. Because chance doesn’t exist – or at least I don’t believe in it – a person who had also fought for the liberation of Ingrid proposed to see me. She wanted to know what I was going to do, ‘now’. We had a meeting. At the time, this person was the first deputy to the mayor of Paris, and as we left the café, Anne Hidalgo asked me to join her team. I accepted for two reasons: I wanted to help her to become the first female mayor in the French capital; and I wanted to help make Paris better. For what ended up behind eight years of loyal service, I was her communications adviser. And then, in 2016, I wanted to try something different. Another important issue for me is climate action, and that’s what I wanted to pursue next. So for four years, I was director of communications and campaigns for C40 Cities, a network of cities around the world who are doing more than most to fight global warming. I have many unforgettable memories of working there, including helping implement the Paris Accord in several of our cities and setting up Women4Climate, an initiative we co-founded with Silvia Marcon with the aim of supporting young women already leading the fight against climate change. More than 400 have now received help in getting their incredible projects off the ground. Today, I’m still working to make the world a better place. Alongside Ariane Delmas, I oversee the Écotable community, which fights for more sustainable food production in France. For us, food can only be considered ‘sustainable’ if it helps our world become a more liveable, equitable place. That vision has translated into a pilot ‘sustainable food quarter’ in Paris, which will soon be replicated across France. You know one other thing about me, and that’s the fact that I work for Midnight Trains, where I am director of communications and institutional relations. What brought me here? Firstly, my friendship with Adrien. Secondly, the sheer impact that I know our company will have once it starts whisking passengers all over Europe from 2024. For several years now, I’ve resolved not to take the plane, and I’m convinced that the revival of sleeper trains will lead to a huge reduction in the amount of CO2 being bumped into the atmosphere right now. I can’t wait to see you on board, and for my part, I’m dreaming of a time when our trains will take you down to Madrid. Because here at Midnight Trains, we’re trying to create our very own eco-friendly, joyful Movida that will (hopefully) change the world. | |  |  |
Having previously sung the praises of Paris and Marseille, in this edition of Midnight Weekly we’ll be heading to Nice, the dazzling capital of the Côte d’Azur. Or rather, Nissa la Bella, as the proud locals refer to it. And they have good reason to be, their home city being as radiant as it is (and so important inspiration for so many artists past and present). Without further ado, let’s head on a brief tour.
The best way to start is to get lost in the labyrinthine backstreets of Vieux Nice. The beating heart of the city, these streets can get narrow and rather steep in places, and the buildings were painted to shine bright in the sunshine (which, by the way, seems to be ever-present in this luminous city). Locals and visitors alike meander around here, both day at night, and for the best feel of the real Nice, you’ll want to head down for the market on the Cours Saleya, whose fruit, veg and flowers add another splash of colour to this already vibrant side of town. Since you’re in the neighbourhood, you may as well climb up the Colline du Château which overlooks the old town. You won’t be able to find the castle in question, as that was destroyed by Louis XIV in 1706, following one of several wars with former state the Comté de Nice. But that doesn’t detract from the impressiveness of the scenery here. The very top of the hill has some of the finest views over Nice. Head up here, and you’ll immediately understand why artists including Henri Matisse, Auguste Renoir, Marc Chagall, Yves Klein and Pablo Picasso have all found inspiration in this city. For the absolute best panorama, go to the Tour Bellanda, from which you’ll be able to take in a vast swathe of the Mediterranean. You’ll definitely have made sure to bring a towel and swimming costume with you, and good thing. In Nice, the Med is never far away and it’s pretty hard to resist a dip, whether you’re ambling along the iconic Promenade des Anglais or kicking back in the La Réserve enclave. Perhaps you’ll want to discover the region’s immaculate beaches: our favourites include the coves of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and the Cap d’Antibes, along with the pristine stretches of sand in Villefranche-Sur-Mer and Eze. Those fond of hiking will also feel at home in this often-hilly region. The most seasoned of walkers will head to the north, where the Alps loom dramatically over the sea. The valleys of Estéron, Vésubie, Merveilles and Roya, despite being battered by storm Alex around a year ago, offer a multitude of possibilities. A little less experienced? Head to the village of Eze and the Chemin de Nietzche, which is where the German author and philosopher came to recuperate – and wrote the famous Thus Spoke Zarathoustra. There’s so much else we could recommend in town. When it comes to culture, there are the Musée Matisse and Musée Chagall, which will immerse you in the colourful world of those two artists, while the MAMAC has many masterpieces by Yves Klein (and also puts on excellent temporary exhibitions). Not far from Nice, at Saint-Paul-de-Vence, you’ll find the Fondation Maeght, which will blow you away with its collection of major artworks by Miró, Braque and Giacometti, plus the stunning La Vie by Marc Chagall. Come the end of the day, you should head back to the Promenade des Anglais to soak up the sunset: a truly remarkable spectacle in this part of the world. After that, it’ll soon be time for dinner, and this city abounds with amazing options. Nice has seen all manner of respected restaurants pop up over the past few years: Babel Babel has tip-top cocktails, decent-value food and unbeatable sea views; Epiro is your best bet for Italian (see below); Banh mei offers delicate Vietnamese plates in the old town; the menus at La Lavomatique and La Pêche à la Vigne are incredibly creative; Le Canon does some of the finest Niçois cuisine in town; and Pure & V is where to go for a really splashy treat. Before you leave, you shouldn’t neglect to try socca, a chickpea pancake that’s become almost symbolic of this city: the very best can be found at Pipo. If you’re after a gourmet souvenir, try Zielinska, the finest boulangerie in town, where the speciality aniseed criscente is a real marvel, Maison Barale for Niçois ravioli served in a stew, or La Part des Anges, a wine cellar packed with excellent natural wines. | |  |  | When they left their native Rome, Alessandra Viscardi and Marco Mattana wanted to stay somewhere near the Med, in a city where they could do what they really excel at: satisfying hearts and stomachs with Italian food that’s as tasty as it is comforting. So they set up shop just around the corner from Nice port, where locals and visitors now flock to their incredible restaurant, Epiro. Local, seasonal produce is the name of the game on Marco’s brilliant menus, from the simple yet exquisite pasta to dessert via hands down the tastiest whitebait in Nice. For her part, Alessandra makes every visitor feel like they’re at home, as soon as they step over the threshold. She’s also on hand to pick out the best wines to go with whatever dishes you choose. In other words: if you ever find yourself with a spare moment in Nice, Epiro should be your immediate first stop. In the meantime, Marco and Alessandra have sent over one of their go-to recipes, so you can recreate their culinary brilliance at home. Ingredients 250g guanciale, chopped
Three onions, chopped
75g peeled tomatoes in sauce
400g grated pecorino (not too fine)
600g bucatini (or pasta of your choice)
200ml red wine
50ml red wine
Two bay leaves
Pepper
Chilli (optional) Prep Sauté the guanciale (without oil or anything else) until it becomes crunchy, being careful not to burn it. Place the cooked guanciale on a plate with paper towels. Brown the onion in the guanciale fat and then deglaze the pan with the wine and vinegar. After a few minutes, add the tomatoes and bay leaves, and cook for 40 minutes. Bring plenty of salted water to the boil, and cook the chosen pasta (al dente). Mix the pasta into the sauce over the heat. Add half of the pecorino without mixing too much. Plate the pasta, add the rest of the pecorino, the crispy guanciale that we set aside at the start, the pepper and chilli. | |  |  | Nice is easily one of the most Italian of French cities and this week the Midnight Train playlist is offering up a song that evokes the slow ‘n’ steady pace of life that reigns along the Côte d’Azur. Of course, the song is Italian. Want to stay your day right? Put this on the stereo first thing, or indeed save it up to soundtrack your Epiro recipe prep. It will no doubt put you in the best of moods. Against a distinctly 1980s backdrop, the Italian Fabio Roscioli (stage name Ryan Paris) sings in a way that really embodies la dolce vita. The general gist is: carpe diem (or noctem), depending on what time of day you’re listening. | |  |  | When we decided we’d lead with Nice in this edition of Midnight Weekly, it seemed pretty obvious to Adrien Aumont, one of our co-founders, what our ‘film of the week’ should be. For the simple reason that his grandfather, Jean-Pierre Aumont was one of the actors in this film, which won the Oscar for ‘best foreign film’ in 1974. Day for Night takes place in the legendary Studios de la Victorine in Nice. The movie tells the story of Ferrand, played by François Truffaut himself, who plays a director deaf in one ear and is filming a melodrama named Je Vous Présente Paméla. It’s a truly subtle work of metacinema. And if we had to pick out a single line that really stayed with us, it would be: ‘Films have greater harmony than life. There’s no congestion, no time out. Films move a bit like trains. Like trains that move in the night.’ Bonne fin de semaine! | | | |
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