| |  | |  |  | |  | Welcome on board Midnight Trains, a company where every moment counts Here at Midnight Trains, we’re aiming to better connect the great European cities – with ‘hotels on rails’ that freshen up the good old-fashioned sleeper train. But while we wait to really welcome you on board, every Friday at midnight the Midnight Weekly newsletter will explain just how the night train could change your life. We’ll also be providing some travel inspiration, and this week we’ll be whisking you off to sunnier climes by giving you the inside track on Sicily (or more precisely, Palermo). | |  |  | J’ai deux amours, she sang, in a melody that’s still synonymous with her name today. Yep, today Josephine Baker is the heart of the opening story of Midnight Weekly this week. This woman did so many fascinating things with her life: singer, dancer, vedette, actress and WWII resistance fighter. It’s hard to find the words to describe the sheer range of her talents and professional engagements. She’s so widely regarded, in fact, that she’s just about to become the sixth woman to receive the ultimate French honour. On November 30, the Panthéon, the monumental mausoleum that recognises those characters who’ve changed the history of France, will become her final resting-place. A few weeks from her ‘pantheonisation’, we want to tell you about two railway-themed episodes that marked her life. The first concerns the train that brought her to Paris. She came from a poor family in Missouri, where she was subject to racial segregation, but found her true home in Paris, where she arrived at just 19 years old. After a long boat trip from New York to Cherbourg, she arrived at the Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris aboard a train from Normandy one morning in 1925. In her book Josephine, written with her fourth husband, Jo Bouillon, they described it as follows: ‘It was raining that morning in 1925. The Gare Saint-Lazare groaned with the daily flood of pale, slightly dodgy passengers. Suddenly, the buzzing crowd stood stock still. A shrill, overexcited crowd had just got off the Le Havre-Paris train. They were carrying bizarre instruments and were laughing out loud. Their rainbow-hued skirts, their fuschia jeans, their chequered and spotted shirts lit up the grey platform. A slender girl, dressed in black-and-white chequered overalls and an incredible hat, stood apart from the group. “So, this is Paris,” she cried out. Those were the first words that Josephine muttered about the city she would soon conquer.’ It was a certainty. Reading those words, her arrival at the station felt much like she was ascending the stage, leaving those around her lost for words. With her artistic collaborators, Josephine Baker left a country ‘where she was scared of being Black’. ‘We left, not because we wanted to, but because we could no longer put up with it. I felt liberated in Paris,’ she said a little later. That day in Paris, they felt the thrill of liberation, the very driving force that had taken them across the Atlantic and all the way to the French capital. You’ll likely already know about the immediate success that Josephine Baker found in France during the Roaring Twenties. So let’s instead climb aboard another train that the music-hall star was to become very familiar with: the mythical Orient-Express, which would take her far beyond the French borders. On September 12 1931, she was in 3309, a first-class sleeping car. The trip was memorable for one main reason: the train was blocked by snow for several days. The service had left Budapest for Vienna at 11.30pm. As the clock struck midnight, the train rolled over the viaduct at Biatorbág in Hungary, and a rather disturbing metallic sound rang out. The train came to a sudden halt before tipping down into a ravine, carrying two carriages with it. There had been a far-right attack. Twenty-two passengers died and many more were injured. Josephine Baker survived thanks to the fact that that night, the first-class carriages were at the back of the train. Suffering from shock but physically unharmed, she leapt to action, much in keeping with her heroic image. Josephine Baker went over to help rescue injured victims, before the police and emergency services arrived. Legend has it that Josephine Baker didn’t hesitate to employ her artistic talents to provide a little bit of solace to survivors. Next to the tracks, where they were all stunned and huddled together, the treacle-voiced singer improvised a quick recital – one of the most moving of her career. A grande dame she certainly was, and someone France has much to be grateful for. | |  |  | You asked for it, so here it is: the return of our series on what’s going on behind the scenes as we prepare to launch Midnight Trains. In the first season, we lifted the curtain on everything that needs to be done to purchase trains. If you missed it, the episodes are available here, here and here. In reality, we skipped several key steps. That’s why, starting this week, we decided to return with a new season of five episodes to tell you everything you need to know to design a train (and much more, considering the design is so tied up with our general mission to reinvigorate the sleeper train). Think of this as a sort of Star Wars-style prequel to the actual experience of riding on our trains. Before going about buying trains, there are a number of key steps related to design that are essential because they’ll allow you to analyse the compatibility of the material as it is and to work out the costs of renovation (if you buy second-hand), or to prepare the list of costs once you’ve consulted with manufacturers (if you buy new). And an important point to note in our case is that we’re aiming to create ‘hotels on rails’: no offence intended towards day trains, but you can well understand that creating trains that serve both as somewhere to sleep and as a vehicle that takes you from A to B is quite a lot more complicated. While we’re still unable to unveil in-depth images of the interior of our bedrooms, like the handful that you can find on our website, the first indispensable stage consists of coming up with a physical space inventory, that is a list of all the different services that will be available on board our trains. In the case of Midnight Trains, we’ve always thought of our trains as moving social hubs where our passengers can eat, have fun and sleep. However, when starting from a blank slate, these three elements of the experience won’t suffice to define the list of services we intend to offer. Oh no. There are a number of criteria that have to be taken into account: The target markets The specific services expected by those markets The travel habits of those markets Other services that characterise the operator’s market position The technical and operational feasibility of those services The financial viability of those services
Defining the target markets is the first essential step before laying out the list of services, as it will influence every other step too. Some operators target mainly business travellers, like Eurostar and Thalys, while others like Italo target an upmarket mix of business and leisure travellers, and another group like OuiGo in France and Spain and FlixTrain in Germany target a low-cost leisure market. Each market will have different expectations of specific services and their own priorities, linked with their travel habits, which will influence the list of services you’ll want to offer as a train firm. A business traveller usually travels alone or with people who aren’t part of their usual social circle, and prefers to sleep alone. This sort of traveller would like to arrive at their destination feeling fresh (and freshly shaven), ready for their first meeting of the day, and will likely want a private shower. Those who travel as a family will probably need more space for their bags, as well as specific kid-friendly services (changing tables, baby beds). Once the operator has homed in on the kind of people they want to appeal to, they can start sketching a preliminary list of services. After that, you’ve got to take into account all the services typically offered by operators in a given market. Certain will want to establish themselves as a luxury offering, anchored in nostalgia for the past, like the Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express and its bar carriage with a grand piano (we promise we’ll tell you a little more about that, it’s quite something), or as a more modern brand, like the Italo with its TV screens on every seat (we’ve already told you about those). And finally, you’ve got to see if this list matches up to the technical and financial reality of operating a railway service in the current age. To put it simply, here’s an example that speaks volumes, an on-board jacuzzi might sound dreamy on paper, but that would evidently pose a lot of technical problems for manufacturers and have an impact on ticket prices for passengers. It might seem obvious, but the key when homing in on your exact business offer is to balance the expectations and priorities of the public with the positioning and financial constraints of the operator. The next stage (and last, in this first episode at least) involves splitting this list of services off into the different segments that make up a train – and that’s how you’ll come up with the ‘space inventory’. In reality, a single service could be delivered in several different ways, and in several different places on board. Food could be served on trolleys (like in places), at tables (like in a restaurant) or in bedrooms (like hotel room service). For its part, the sleeping areas could be made up of seats, or bedrooms for one, two, four or six people. Showers could be communal or private (and linked to the bedrooms). And when it comes to entertainment, that could comprise a selection of films available on a screen in your bedroom or there could be a dedicated cinema or concert room. To back up all these points, let’s take a simple (and extreme) example: a sleeper train targeting a luxury audience (and specifically, business travellers). A simplified list of services would look like something like this: Here’s the list of the kind of spaces you’d need on board: Individual bedrooms with private showers A dedicated, seated restaurant space Soundproofed meeting rooms with good Wi-fi A soundproofed conference room with good Wi-fi
Once you’ve pinpointed the spaces you want, you’d then need to see how these could be adapted to a space that’s limited in two ways: Once you’ve reached this stage, there’s another step (and yep, that’s what we’ll be covering next week): one that will allow you to actually to sketch a design of the carriages (with a 2D map of the various features and spaces included in each type) and the general composition of the trains (the sum of the carriages in the entire train). We’ll stop there for this week, and see you at the same time, same place next week. | |  |  | As autumn segues into winter, we’re taking the opportunity to head to sunnier climes in Midnight Weekly – and this week, we’ll be singing the praises of Palermo. Tucked in the north (relatively speaking) of Sicily, this luminous city is a land of contrasts which will win you over thanks to both its amazing art and architecture, and locals’ laidback way of life. So let’s wander around a little to see what it’s all about. Norman and Arab influences blend in this historic city, and we’d definitely recommend taking in a handful of beautiful buildings that do a good job of illustrating the city’s multicultural past. First up, visit the Palatine Chapel, which is perhaps the best example of the two cultures commingling in one place. Tucked inside the Norman Palace, which started out as an Arab fortification, this magnificently-mosaicked capella is the now the nextdoor neighbour of the Sicilian parliament. Next up, take a look at the Martorana, an orthodox church that dates back to the twelfth century. But despite the age of the place, its mosaics and golden features are no less dazzling for it. Slightly more austere are the Capuchin Catacombs, which offer up a rather… let’s say… original experience. More delicate souls might not want to head down there: there are no less than 8,000 mummified bodies that have been stored down there (and continue to decompose), still in their ancient ceremonial robes. For something a little more vivifying, hit the streets again. You couldn’t visit this city without simply going for an aimless stroll and taking in the city’s distinctive architectural features. One good example is the setting offered by the Piazza Marina, whose majestic buildings glimmer in the sunlight all year round. The square itself is quite a sight to behold, but the surrounding palazzi are even more eye-catching. Another of the city’s most iconic squares is the Piazza Pretoria, with its five-century-old marble fountain, which is most spectacular at sunset. Now, how about a spot of nature? Your best bet is the orto botanico, which has welcomed fans of tropical plants since 1795. Today there are more than 12,000 different species in this extraordinary garden, which covers a whopping ten hectares. It’s a thoroughly tranquil place for a leisurely stroll. And those who like to swim will be pretty happy here too. Head just a few kilometres out of town and you’ll find turquoise water and white-sand beaches to die for. The closest is Mondello, a village-turned-seaside resort. Whether you go to simply kick back in the sun or go for a dip, it’s hands down the easiest spot to get to from Palermo. For those who fancy a longer trip, hop on a ferry to the Aeolian Islands for a few days. These volcanic islands will make an unforgettable impression on you. As the day comes to a close, make sure to squeeze in a decent dinner. You’re in a good place for it: Palermo locals, like Sicilians in general, are really into their food. A few places we’d recommend: Liberta Vini Naturali e Cucina, Cicala, Bottega Monteleone, Buatta and Radici. But this being said, you shouldn’t overlook all the food stalls you’ll find on street corners all over the city. This city must be one of the world’s street-food capitals and you’ll come across fish, veg, seafood and all sorts of fried things flying off the grill. Try the Capo Market and the Piazza Caracciolo. As night falls, you’ll want to hit up the ever-frenetic Vucciria, a marketplace by day and the place to head after dark. Those who like a big night out will be pretty happy here. Go from bar to pub, ad infinitum, and you’ll no doubt get to know some pretty friendly locals – and want to do exactly the same thing the following day, too. | |  |  | This week, one of France’s most respected food critics has shared one of her favourite recipes with us. Estérelle Payany’s palate carries a lot of weight in the culinary world, and while she evidently knows her stuff about restaurants, she’s also a peerless chef whose cookery books are well worth investing in. Estérelle Payany also has a big heart, and has always strived to make the culinary world more in sync with the challenges of our era. Sustainability, for example, is at the heart of her latest recipe book, ‘La Cuisine des Beaux Restes’, in which she explains how to adopt a more eco-conscious approach in the kitchen, while also preventing food from ending up in landfill. The Italian-inspired recipe you’ll find below is taken from the book, and is an excellent example of the kind of thing you can whip up from leftovers. Before you tuck in, here are few words from Payany herself: ‘While this recipe is usually made with cime di rape, that is broccoli rabe, which aren’t easy to found outside Italy, using whole broccolis (from the flower to the stem) is an excellent alternative. You could also simply use loads of leftover stems. The fried breadcrumbs replace the conventional parmesan and is why they’re often called the parmesan of the poor in the south of Italy, which provided the inspiration for this recipe.’ Ingredients for four people Three teaspoons of capers One small broccoli or three broccoli stems 400g orecchiette One or two garlic cloves Six tablespoons of olive oi Six anchovy fillets 6 generous tablespoons of homemade bread crumbs Dried chilli to taste Sea salt
Prep Desalt the capers by washing with cold water two or three times. Dry them on absorbent paper. Wash the broccoli. Remove the flowers from the stem, then peel the latter and chop into small pieces. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Pour in the pasta and broccoli and mix. Keep on the boil and let them cook for around ten minutes. All the while, peel and grate the garlic cloves. Brown them in a frying pan with half of the olive oil on a low flame with the anchovy fillets and chilli. Put aside. In another pan, warm up the remaining oil. Fry the capers, then place them on absorbent paper. In the same pan, turn the bread crumbs until golden and crispy. Drain the pasta and broccoli. Add them to the garlic and anchovies, then heat the mixture on a high flame for one to two minutes. Add the fried capers and half of the golden bread crumbs, and serve straight away. Place any remaining bread crumbs in a bowl for your dining companions to dip into as they please. Top anti-waste tip: Only use broccoli stems (peeled and grated). Don’t cook them with the pasta but instead with the garlic and anchovies. | |  |  | Let’s stick around in Italy for a bit. The song we’re sharing from the Midnight Trains playlist this week should help. The year is 1979, and here comes this disco song, with its rhythm as dated as it is delicious. As the weather coarsens, and winter arrives, this is your remedy. A remedy to moroseness, to melancholy, to winter itself. So wait no longer: press play, put the volume on high, dance the night away. Summer is nothing but a state of mind. | |  |  | Honest, we will get home at some point, but we thought we’d take one last opportunity to linger by the Med for a bit. The Big Blue is a film that does it justice like no other. The plot revolves – with a good deal of creative freedom – around the rivalry between two of the greatest freedivers of all time: the Italian Enzo Molinari and the Frenchman Jacques Mayol. Director Luc Besson whisks the viewer off to several idyllic spots around the continent, but the film’s climax takes place in Taormina in Sicily (during the world freediving championships). We’ll let you discover the rest of the story for yourself. Buon fine settimana! | |  | | |
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