|  | Hi Everyone, After going through the trauma of the super typhoon Odette and two exhausting moves in 30 days landing us in a city from a different island, Negros Oriental, we decided to take a break. We deserved a little R & R and a breather. Siquijor was calling. |  | We’d been longing to visit Siquijor for over two years. It's as beautiful as people say, an island with pristine white sand beaches and so very clean; there’s hardly any trash at all, and honestly that’s a bit unusual for many parts of the Philippines. Incidentally, Siquijor has had low Covid stats because they’ve kept themselves locked up pretty tight for the longest time, but they are finally opening up. Oh, and Siquijor Island is magical! It’s known for the healing arts, witchcraft, and sorcery; on Siquijor mystical dwarves thrive on legendary trees and mythical centaur sightings are commonplace.
Aside from being known as the ‘Witches Island’, Siquijor is also known as the ‘Fire Island’ owing to the eerie glow from swarms of fireflies at dusk. Well, that and occasional sighting of ‘balls of fire’ from a Santelmo. Saint Elmo’s Fire was apparently NOT just a brat pack movie from the 80’s! Who knew? Here in the Philippines Santelmo is thought to be a spirit of man who died near a river or lakes, during heavy rains, and sought revenge. That’s way spookier than the famous catholic saint who helps farmers and fishermen find their way in the dark of the night. The more prosaic explanation is that Saint Elmo’s Fire is ‘ball lightning’ that is an electrical plasma discharge related to seismic and volcanic activity! Lots of volcanic activity here. My husband Darwin jokes that we’ve been through a pandemic, and a typhoon only to tempt fate by relocating to a volcanic island!
What’s next, a Tsunami? |  | Getting to Siquijor Island from our new home in Dumaguete City, was an ordeal. The Philippines borders have recently opened to the world just a few days ago, so I thought we were good to go. Then, at the last minute we found out that we needed a special pass called, you guessed it, an S Pass. It’s a travel permit showing that you’ve uploaded a vaccination and have a valid hotel booking. Then while studying the boat schedules to find the available ferries, and of course, the faster Ocean Jet was not in operation yet. Instead of a 50-minute ride, we’d get the estimated of 1.5 to 2.5-hour long option. “So, what time do we leave?” I asked our neighbor. “It shows on the internet that Ocean Jet still commutes there, but they hardly ever update their data.” “But how do I know what time a ferry is leaving?” “The best way is to go there early. Since the pandemic, the schedules have been irregular. They never leave on time since because there aren’t enough passengers, so they wait for the boat to fill up.” Though the ‘Early Bird gets the worm’, it was not to be, they’d canceled the Sunday ferry. One of the dock workers told us, “It hasn’t been running on Sundays for a long time.” We came back early the next day, and as soon as we got to the port, there was a long line already waiting in the hot morning sun. Oh gee, I thought to myself. Is this worth it? Yes! You’ve been wanting to come here forever. Get in that line girl! After easily convincing myself, I went join the queue. But… of course, I still needed to get stamp by the coast guard for final approval… and of course the obligatory extra copies of our papers. “But I already submitted them online?” I politely told the stern looking Coastguard officer. “Yes, sir!” I said compliantly. More waiting. Finally got stamped, and we were eligible to get in line to travel. The line was becoming distinctly unruly and looked much like the floor of the New York Stock exchange.
I walked ahead on the top of the line, hopeful for an accelerated ranking for the pregnant, aged, and infirm, “Is there a senior lane?” I inquired. “Nah ah!” They indicated they weren’t doing that… which is illegal! Begrudgingly, I headed to the very end of the line, but just then an official government SUV drove up and with their megaphones announced, “make way for the seniors, pregnant woman and disabled people!” Me and a few others scrambled to the top of the line with a police escort. “Make a line for the seniors,” they commanded. I followed them; a proud ‘Senior’, my ID had been transformed from a scarlet letter to a badge of honor. I really am enjoying being a senior here in the Philippines. I just turned 61 last April, and my Senior ID has become very handy for the fast lines and the 20% discounted meals! Finally, with 10:00am tickets in hand… we prepared to wait again! The departure wasn’t until almost 12noon. I remember my neighbor’s warning me that they wouldn’t leave until the boat was full. “Take your car!” my friend advised. “Siquijor is such a small island, you can tour it in a day! My husband and I really had fun driving around the island. Don’t be afraid to drive there, there’s really no traffic.” “Mmm…I want to check the landscape first.” I did not want to admit that I was afraid to drive until I was more familiar with the terrain of the land. Darwin could not get a simple foreign conversion of his California License because it had expired shortly after moving to the Philippines. As soon as we arrive in Siquijor island, it was absolute bliss. Traffic was indeed very minimal as she’d promised, and there were white sand beaches stretching out to eternity. There were welcoming green trees swaying in the breeze.
Okay. I just need a cocktail! I thought. |  | Unless you take your own car or motorcycle, tricycles are the only transportation in town. We immediately got an eager tricycle driver to bring us to our hotel. “Where are you going Ma’am?” “Tropical Fun Ta Sea Resort? Are you driving to Lala-o?” I asked. “Yes, I can take you. I am an accredited driver,” He volunteered, proudly displaying the certificates on his trike. “Cool.” I said. “250 Pesos (USD5.00). We have only one price, depending on the distance.” The rates were standardized, and the driver was super polite. We hired him as our guide for the duration of the trip. |  | Of course, we took a red tricycle, it’s Valentine’s Day! I felt safe that I wasn’t being hustled and felt a very gentle disposition. I always give bonus points for that! He dropped us off in time for a Valentine sunset. |  | After a cocktail and a nourishing sunset, we went out for dinner. All the places were crowded, and there was acoustic music and serenading the couples. Filipinos take valentine’s day seriously, there were even families dressed up all in matching red. Early the next day, we headed to the Land Transportation Office (LTO) so that Darwin could get his driver’s License. In Dumaguete City where the long lines live, the LTO is truly daunting! We thought it might be a happy accident being in Siquijor being that it’s a much smaller town. Our hopes were rewarded as the crowds were better than manageable. This was the most unromantic part of our brief vacation, but it was a necessary evil and it’d become a priority. |  | Just before the typhoon, we’d purchased a minivan, but it’d not been delivered until just a couple of weeks ago. This was a blessing in disguise. The promised delivery date was coincidentally set for the day of the typhoon hit; a brand-new van could have been crushed or damaged by flying debris during the storm like so many others! We’d not needed to have a car in years. Darwin was hesitant to drive in the traffic madness which is Cebu City. He was comfortable driving in Los Angeles and the San Francisco Bay Area, but he insists nothing is quite as crazy as Cebu City’s traffic! My family finally persuaded us that a car would be convenient for doctor’s visits and shopping, especially if there was an emergency. When Darwin spotted a minibus, he was hooked. They’re rare in the US, and he thought they looked ‘cool’ and unique. “What is that?” He’d asked. “It’s a multicab!” I’d told him. “They’re assembled here in the Philippines from surplus parts from Japan, they’re like ‘Ikea’ meets 'Build-A-Bear’ for cars… and they’re very affordable!” “Wow! I’m convinced.” So, with the prompting from my family, a couple of short months, and one angry typhoon later, we were proud owners of a ‘multicab’. We thought it almost ideal for the beach community living, but it needed a cool logo, designed by the proud artist below. |  | As soon as we got the driver’s License out of the way, the mystery tour began. “Island tour, ma’am?” Our Driver, Rio pushed. “Sure, how much does it cost?” “1200 pesos. We only have one price, depending on the distance. it’s all the same.” Was the closing pitch on his sale. “How long does it take?” “5-6 hours, more or less!” “I don’t want to be in a trike all day,” Darwin said in the background. “Is there a half island tour?” I asked, thinking I’d like to be back on the beach at the sunset sipping on a cocktail. My throat started salivating when I envisioned the classic Margarita on the rocks. “I want to pick a few places and get back to the hotel before the sun goes down.” “Let’s do it!” Darwin chimed in. “I want to see the enchanted Balete tree!” Since we were on an enchanted island, that was the top of my list! |  | The tree is more than 400 years old and has been a backdrop of many horror movies. It does look formidable with its century old hair-like vines and branches. Rumors has it that it’s the home of Capre, Aswangs and magical dwarves. We were even told that sometimes serpents come out of the tree, and that the water springs from the tree and is caught in a manmade pool. In it you can rest your tired calloused feet to be nibbled at by tiny fish. It feels ticklish and slightly disconcerting! |  | There’s a souvenir shop outside that sells barks of trees, to cleanse or heal you as well as magic potions, protective amulets, and voodoo dolls. We were lucky to have the tree all to ourselves.
“Normally, this place would be jampacked with people having their feet nibbled.” Rio explained. “You get to enjoy the tree now all to yourself!” “What’s so special about this tree?” I tried to quiz the driver. “And please explain in English so Darwin can understand.” Rio suddenly became dumbfounded and stuttered in our dialect, as he pulled out a brochure and started reading to us.” “No, no, no!” I stopped him. “We can read the brochure ourselves.” We were asking for his own thoughts about it, but still he demurred. He was reticent to tell me any story or history. He said, his ancestors (the old people) knew but not him.
I did find out that there were plenty of paranormal events that occurred in the house across the tree before the tourist establishments were built, and that there was a giant sighting of a very hairy-man one of the locals relayed. “He reached out to me, and I ran away. After that incident, I was very sick for two weeks. I could’ve have died if I had not run for my life.” There have been plenty of stories but I’m saving them for an upcoming book. Don’t go chasing waterfalls,
stick to the rivers and the lakes
that you’re used to ~ TLC |  | Next on the agenda was Cambugahay Falls. “You can get a guide here, the ones in red shirts. They are all accredited,” Rio Suggested. “But how much do we pay him?” I asked. “It’s up to you, there’s no fix price.” Good to know! I thought. Rio waited for us at the top of the Falls while Darwin and I descended with our guide. I wondered why we needed a guide, but I discovered it was for the following reasons: - To hold your hands when you go down or up the 135 steps. We discovered it was worse ascending! (Was this penance for some slight in a former life?)
- To support you when you walk on the slippery stones to avoid a fall?
- To carry your bag or backpack?
- To take your pictures?
- To tell you the history of the falls? Nevertheless, I truly enjoyed this three-tiered falls. Walking down the fall is replete with lush foliage. |  | After Cambugahay falls, we decided that we couldn’t leave the island without checking in with the local ‘Healer’. He’s a kind of ‘Shaman’. “Do you know where they are?” I asked Rio. “I know that some healers live really far, and they live in the mountains.” “Are any closer?” Rio drove us to a renown local healer he knew who inherited his gift from his ancestors. “Where’s your ‘healer’ sign?” I don’t know why I’d imagined that he’d hang out his ‘healer’ shingle by his door like an ol’ school lawyer or doctor? “The REAL healers don’t have a sign. People just look for them and know that they are real. People come here as a last resort if they’ve tried anything and still can’t be healed by doctors.” He quietly spoke. “Wow!” “Many people come here for love potions, to win a prospect or win back their lover.” Like a detective agency! I thought. “Do you have a potion to make me pass my driver’s exam?” Darwin asked. He was worried about the computer portion of his driving’s exam. The next thing we knew, we were armed with charms, talismans, and some medicinal charcoal ashes to clean our energy up. The way it works is to light it and put it underneath your chair or lean over it so that the smoke envelops your body. The amulets we got were to ward off negative energies and so that Darwin will get the much needed magical ‘mojo’ to pass his driver’s exams. After discussing the process of how witchcraft and sorcery evolved here in the Philippines and how healing actually happens through the aid of proper knowledge of herbs, we offered our donations for the kindly sorcerer’s valuable time and to support he and the “healers” in the community. They actually have an organization, of which the mayor of the town is the head. We said our ‘goodbyes’. It was really interesting, and he was very sincere and really an articulate nice young gentleman. |  |
It was time to go, and we could not wait to get back to our lives in Dumaguete city, our responsibilities, and our three Yorkie dogs. The trip was refreshing, rejuvenating, and Darwin got his driver’s License (because magic is real!)
Siquijor: we will be back! |  | Important Information to know: Fares from Dumaguete City to Siquijor:
(as of February 2022, subject to change) Php 150 pesos (USD 3 dollars)
Island Tour:
Php 1200 (USD 24)
5-6 hours
Location: Dumaguete port.
If you cannot find a boat to your destination, you can also visit the Sibulan port which is 15-20 minutes away. Boats take a duration of 1.5 more or less, Aleson is known to be the faster of the 2.
Requirement as of February 2022, subject to change.
S-Pass
Vaccination Cards
Booking to accredited hotels Ferries: Ocean Jet – currently not in operation.
Aleson
Montenegro Hotels: Tropical Fan Ta Sea Rentals: Nice hotel, reasonable rates, directly on water. Staff was fantastic. Place was very clean. Food was good. Super high tech shower jets. I have to admit the fancy super-hot showers were a draw. I was just disappointed that there was no fridge in the room. Overall, it was a great experience. Note: Cash is king there, but ‘Gcash’ is accepted. No credit cards please! Coco Grove Hotel
Almost paradise. After Darwin passed his Driver’s theoretical and practical exams, we spent the last day here and the place exceeded our expectation; we acted as though he’d got a pilot’s license! The sunsets were spectacular, the beach was very clean, though I spotted a few sea urchins. Best to use beach shoe in the water. The food was great, and the staff were totally over the top. They had three giant pools to pick from, one of the pools had a bar. The rooms were fantastic. They offer free transportation to and from the port. They really take care of you, and we’ll definitely be back! Restaurants: Trattoria Carbonara The best Italian food in town. The pizza was exceptional, with the perfect thickness of the dough. The owner, Rodolfo, a Uruguay native, part Basque and Brazilian, has lived all over the world, had several passports to his name and have interesting entertaining stories to tell. I definitely would go back for the expert and authentic Italian pizza and listen to him share about his amazing life in the fashion industry! |  | Places to See:
Cambugahay Falls
A beautiful 3 tiered-waterfall and a steep walk of 135 steps up and down the mountain to get there. Wear your swimsuits ahead as there are no dressing rooms or learn to change inside a sarong or towel. No entrance fee, but there’s a small Parking fee. Accredited Rescue guides are available wearing red the
t-shirts. |  | Balete Tree
Amazing magical tree, great place for a foot massage if you want your feet nibbled by the fishes. Be on the look-out for hairy giants! Lazi Convent
Lazi Convent is the oldest convent in Asia! It used to be the biggest convent in the entire Asia measuring 32 meters by 42 meters and houses the Siquijor Heritage Museum. It was built in 1884.The ground floor is made of coral stone, while the second floor is built from Hardwood. It was finished seven years later in 1891 and had a large influence in the historical and religious beliefs of the people in Siquijor. Currently, there is only one priest who lives there.
|  | More here. I love and support Indie and traditional Authors | This issue, I would like to feature an author I looked up to and has done a lot for Filipino Writers both in the Philippines and abroad. Cecilia Brainard is a Filipino who comes from the same hometown as me, Cebu (aka Ubec), a FilAm author & editor of over 20 books, including the novels: WHEN THE RAINBOW GODDESS WEPT, MAGDALENA, and THE NEWSPAPER. Unfortunately, due to her tight busy schedule, I could not secure an interview but nevertheless, it won’t stop me from reviewing her book. |  | Don’t forget your reviews! |  | If you love a book, please leave a review.
It is your gift to the Author. |  | My 5-star review for “The Newspaper Widow” posted at Amazon.
The Newspaper Widow
I very much enjoyed the Newspaper Widow by Cecilia Manguerra Brainard.
It’s a cozy mystery novel that transported me back in time, seeing and feeling Ubec (Cebu) in the 1900s. It resonated with me. I could visualize my ancestors, their customs, tradition, mentality, costumes and scenery. It felt all so familiar to me. I imagined Cebu in the 1900’s from her description of the streets and towns where I used to roam. The heroine in this story, Ines Maceda could very well have been my grandmother, as she describes the colonial time period. Cecilia clearly shows the strength and vulnerability of a Filipina woman as depicted in her cast of rich characters, the friendship of two women from different cultures and the influence of family and church over one’s life. This is exactly what I needed considering all the challenges the world just went through with the pandemic. A compelling read, a masterpiece. I highly recommend it. You can get your copy here: My BooksTen percent of my book sales from 2022, will go to “Rebuild and Recover Cebu.” |  | |  | | Every day we have the opportunity to experience all of the gifts that make up, life!Designed to encourage mindfulness every single day~ |  | Get the story! https://storyoriginapp.com/swaps/741b4480-686e-11ec-a9bd-0b79a6a9c25a
Self-Help, How-to, Memoirs, Cook Books, DIY, all genres Non-Fiction Get these books fast! This promotion ends March 31st! |  | |  | Thanks again for your time, ‘til my next newsletter. I would love to hear from you, shoot me an email or visit me on my website!
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