Restaurants Rising: Coping in Times of Crisis

What inspired you to get into this business?

When I was in my late 20’s I had a dark night of the soul. I knew I needed to do something with
my life, but nothing seemed worth doing. The only thing I cared about was food, so before I
could chicken out I signed up for the Natural Gourmet’s chef’s training program, told my
husband I was moving across the country, and started classes before I could lose my nerve. I
haven’t looked back once.

Given the current climate of the global restaurant scene, what changes have you
had to make to your business model?

Business model? (cue sardonic laughter) My business model right now is, “Don’t close.” I’ve had
to shut down my old restaurant and open an entirely new one in the same location. Dirt Candy
was a fine dining vegetable focused restaurant that served a massive tasting menu. That Dirt
Candy is gone and it may never come back. I’ve had to open a business based around take-out
and delivery and outdoor dining, so it’s all stoner sandwiches, kitchen sink salads, vegetable
and vodka slushies, summer BBQs in a box, and desserts. My food has to hold up to travel,
and people need their meals to be big, and bright, and bold, and comforting.

What is a key takeaway you’ve learned from the COVID19 crisis that you would like to
share with the restaurant/bar community?

Tipping needs to end. It’s racist, it’s sexist, and it left our workers — the people we’re supposed
to treat like family, the people we depend on to run our businesses — gruesomely exposed
when this crisis hit. We need to ditch tipping, raise our menu prices by 20% and give our
workers a living wage so they can stop living hand to mouth. Owners and customers need to
face reality: if you eat in or own a restaurant that practices tipping, you are engaging in a racist
and sexist system that exploits vulnerable workers. Period. It’s your choice what kind of human
being you want to be, but own your decisions.

What do you wish all of your customers knew?

We’re struggling, too. Right now, every restaurant owner I know is in mourning, racking up debt,
fighting to keep the lights on, crying themselves to sleep. We’re presenting a happy face to the
world, but we had to fire people we’ve worked with for years. We couldn’t take care of our work
families. We’re watching our businesses get gutted. And we’re doing our best to feed you. So
maybe ease up on the Yelp and online reviews for a little bit? Maybe don’t call the restaurant if
your order is running 15 minutes late and don’t scream at the person who answers the phone.

We’re trying, and we’re heartbroken, and we’re doing our best, just like you.

Place you would most like to eat when this is "over"?

My parents' house.