Western Australia's Margaret River has built it's reputation on the subtlety and nuanced nature of its wines and Cullen has been at the vanguard for almost 50 years. The latest releases of their flagship red and white are some of the finest yet.
James Suckling has published his Top 100 Wine of Australia in 2020 and Cullen's flagship red comes in at No.4, whilst the white is No. 28.
Writing for Decanter, Sarah Ahmed has also recently tasted Cullen's flagship wines and is equally enthusiastic
This is a superb edition of this revered, cabernet-based blend with such complete, seamless and elegant feel, yet there’s such depth of flavor, too. Aromas of fresh redcurrants, red and violet flowers, subtle spice, fresh earth, paper bark, fresh-picked thyme and sage, red berries and some cedary notes. The palate is stunning and has a brand of elegance with power that is found in only the greatest wines. Pristine mulberries, red plums, blueberries and red cherries sail through layers of fine tannin, into an unwaveringly long and vibrant finish. An exceptionally concentrated and convincing Diana Madeline release, this is one of their finest. A blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 5% malbec. Delicious now, but his will bloom from 2028. Screw cap. 99 points James Suckling
Authoritative, with blackcurrant and mulberry fruit nuanced by deep notes of tobacco, bitter chocolate, currant leaf, dried rose and cedar. With beautifully understated gravitas, the fine-textured graphite tannins and incisive acidity sustain a long, penetrating finish. Reflecting ideal harvest conditions, fruit for this ultra-composed Bordeaux blend was picked over one month on fruit and flower days, including a full-moon fruit day, then part-fermented in amphorae, before ageing in 80% biodynamic barrels (50% new). 2020-2050 98 points Sarah Ahmed, Decanter
This has such a complex, pristine nose with wet stones, lemon curd and sliced and grilled peaches, as well as fresh apricots and grilled hazelnuts. It is brimming with life. The palate is so perfectly measured and smoothly fleshy with a succulent core of such juicy, rich peaches and grilled lemons. It unfolds long and graceful into the finish. Brilliant chardonnay here. Drink or hold. 98 points James Suckling
Picked on fruit and flower days, with one 'moon opposite Saturn' (flower day) harvest, which was fermented in a concrete egg. Perfumed vanilla, cantaloupe and dried pear, with hints of blossom and orange bitters suffuse the senses. The palate is broad-shouldered – opulent even – tapering energetically to a long finish and propelled by lipsmacking ripe lime and grapefruit acidity. Pure, muscular fruit powers through to mop up the new oak (50%) with ease. Very charismatic. 2020-2030 96 points Sarah Ahmed, Decanter
The Diana Madeline and Kevin John were named in honour of winemaker Vanya Cullen's parents, the winery's founders.
Biodynamic viticulture has advanced flavour ripeness in the Cabernet in particular. Consequently, alcohol levels have dropped and the wines are fresher and resolutely medium-bodied, meaning less oak is needed. All this, says Cullen, amplifies ‘the very loud voice of the vineyard,’ with its signature floral, mineral and chocolate notes.
With drier profiles than their peers, Diana Madeline and Vanya Cabernet Sauvignon will appeal to Bordeaux lovers. Though long-lived, the ultra-refined tannins and remarkable fruit purity make them relatively accessible early on.
While Cullen’s reds show restraint, Kevin John Chardonnay is flamboyant. Its fruit purity, concentration and drive typifies Western Australia’s low yielding Gin Gin clone. Sarah Ahmed, Decanter
