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The Weekly TickList #137

Fontainebleau

Despite the travel restrictions, the rain and the snow, a lot has happened in the forest. The main event was the first ascent of ‘the biggest project in Bleau’; The Big Island (assis) 9a in Coquibus Rumont by Simon Lorenzi. This problem has been tried since 1998 by the strongest Bleausards and climbers from abroad. It's the third 9a in the forest. The first being Fou Rire (aller-retour) 9a in Cuisinière Crête Sud opened by Jean-Pierre Bouvier in 2012. This traverse has never been repeated. The second is No Kpote Only 9a in Rocher Brûlé opened by Charles Albert in 2018. This problem adds some very hard traverse moves into Gaïa 7c+. It was repeated by Nicolas Pelorson in 2020 and he thinks this problem is 8c. The Big Island (assis) is the second straight up 9a in the world, the first being the never repeated Burden of Dreams in Finland, opened by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016. Simon Lorenzi needed about 25 sessions to climb The Big Island (assis).
Nicolas Januel opened Le Sens de la Fête 8b+ in Dame Jouanne.

Between the many showers conditions have been great. Resulting in a long list (the best TickList ever?) of hard repeats.
Nicolas Collin, Antonie Kaufmann, Lucien Martinez and Killian Chabrier repeated The Big Island 8c in Coquibis Rumont. Some say 8b+.
Thilo Schröter is making the best of a longer trip and he repeated Satan i Helvete (départ bas) 8c and Satan i Helvete 8b+ in Coquibus Longs Vaux, Bélial 8c in Cuvier, Mécanique Élémentaire 8b+ and Jour de Chasse 8b+ in Recloses, Gecko (assis) 8b+ in Rocher de Bouligny, Le Paradoxe de Zénon 8b in Coquibus Arcades and Le Sens de la Fête 8b+ in Dame Jouanne.
Oriane Bertone repeated Super Tanker 8b+ and Atrésie (assis) 8a+ in Cuvier Rempart.
Jules Nicouleau repeated La Ligne de Bête 8b+ in Boissy aux Cailles and Partage (assis) 8b in Buthiers Piscine.
Maxime Baroud repeated Hip Hop (assis) 8b in Rocher Cailleau, Dune 8b in Rocher de la Salamandre and Partage (assis) 8b in Buthiers Piscine.
Killian Chabrier repeated Khéops (assis) 8b+ in Cuvier Rempart.
Camille Coudert repeated Gecko (assis) 8b+ in Rocher de Bouligny.
Antoine Maire repeated Mécanique Élémentaire 8b+ in Recloses. Some say 8b.
Maël Bonzom repeated La Galinette Cendrée 8b in Coquibus Arcades.
Convict Clava repeated Elephunk 8b in Marlanval.
 

 

Recommended

The Big Island (assis)

This picture was taken from the Instagram feed of Pietro Sambuy Photo (@psambuyphoto)

"Début janvier j’ai eu la chance de voir @simonlorenzi faire quelques runs dans Big Island assis ou «soudain seul ». Cette semaine, le bloc est finalement sorti et c’est le premier 9A de la forêt, et un des seuls dans le monde! Hâte de voir le film de @gilles.charlier qui en sortira !"

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