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South Africa Trip Report December 2020
Safari, City, Sea, and Sommelier Country
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Hi <<First Name>>,

Of all the countries on the continent, South Africa has an undeniable hold on my heart and an unsurprising slice of my soul. My family has a near 50-year connection to South Africa; 14 years ago I spent three months living in the Western Cape; 10 years ago I fell in love with my now husband, Johann Vanzyl, whose original roots sprouted in Wellington; five years ago I started working with Tswalu Kalahari; and in 2020 I saw some of my dearest friends and colleagues, my favorite properties and projects suffer severely from a lack of tourism. So my December 2020 trip to be one of the first pioneers to document travel from North America to South Africa is among the most meaningful of the four countries I covered during the course of Covid.

The Rainbow Nation offers a colorful kaleidoscope of experiences from bush to beach, urban places to wild spaces, historically significant monuments to contemporary ceiling-shattering culture, small-batch beverages to internationally recognized cuisine, and so much more. I spend time in South Africa annually and still have much to discover. It offers something special for first or fiftieth timers; single travelers or multi-gen families; couples commemorating or people pondering … and ponder is exactly what I did during my three weeks on the ground.

I hope you enjoy this trip report that covers what it was like to travel in December 2020. Of course, in the time between when I was in South Africa until now, when this report is being published, Tuesday, January 19, 2021, things have changed, and in time, they will change again. We are all doing our best to learn through in-person experiences and share the most accurate and up-to-date information, while navigating an ever-evolving roll-out of rules and regulations. As always, please use my experience, my story, as a guide and keep in mind that yes, some things will be different in the future.


Brooke & Johann

PS: Please also refer to this Youtube recording of Brooke's post-trip South Africa webinar
SAV(E)ORING SOUTH AFRICA

I wanted South Africa to be as generally seamless and easy as my other trips in 2020 to Kenya, Zambia, and Uganda, which it wasn’t, but in the end, it offered up exactly what I needed as an industry insider so that I could share more tidbits and take-aways to make the planning and booking process better for you and your travelers if possible, since the overall experience is still stellar and one I eagerly encourage.

It’s true that South Africa is the hardest-hit country in Africa and that the Covid numbers within the country are on the rise again, which means that at the present moment there are measures being taken that are logistically frustrating from a travel standpoint (limiting libations for instance, or constant flight changes). However, the tourism entities (transportation providers, lodges and hotels, restaurants and shops, etc.) are doing everything right to ensure that guests remain healthy. During my time on the ground, I flew or drove every other day or daily, stayed at eleven guest-focused properties and two private homes, interacted with nearly thirty locals ranging from seven months to 70 years, (including a paramedic coming home nightly from work at hospital), ate out and went into stores, and more, and always tested negative. The people I traveled with for the first half of the trip also interacted with lots of locals as they have their own industry partners or friends and family in South Africa: in Joburg, from The Residence, they went out to explore Maboneng, the Apartheid Museum, and other Jozi hot spots, and in Cape Town, from Ellerman House, they spent their day at leisure brunching on rooftops, shopping at the Old Biscuit Mill, walking through the Oranjezicht market, hiking or beach strolling … and all tested negative upon their return home as well. I say this because it continues to be possible to have an amazing safari, city and sea trip to South Africa with just a bit of everyday awareness and personal responsibility.

I previously looked up comparative stats for Zambia for someone, and thought it would be impactful to compare the USA to RSA for this report. As of January 1, 2021: USA has a population of 331M people, with 20M cases reported and 364K deaths; RSA has a population of 59.62M people, with 1M cases reported (1,004,413 specifically) and 27K deaths (26,735). Or, more simply stated, from a country average standpoint, South Africa has 24 cases per 100K and the USA has 64 cases per 100K.

So, I still continue to feel safer in Africa, secure in what South African tourism entities are doing to ensure a stellar experience, and know that traveling as soon as one feels comfortable will be a welcome escape from being at home. And, the sooner the better when it comes to getting the royal treatment. With fewer numbers, now is when the most amazing room upgrades are happening (yes, always based upon availability), less crowded and more private activities are possible, and extra attention and pampering is felt. I love what was said to me at Steenberg: "people are coming here because they need to be nurtured, to feel cared for, and to leave the stress at the gate, so if we can go the extra distance to provide something that really makes people feel special and gives them space to relax, that’s what we’ll do.”

FIGHT OR FLIGHT

As I’ve said with every trip this year, flexibility is key, as is keeping in mind that the aviation industry is part of the tourism industry the same way that hotels and camps, cafes and museums, tours and tastings, and the support businesses that service all of them are as well. When we throw out the # AllInItTogether, or whatever the social support catch phrase du jour is, we need to really mean it. Airlines are also doing their best to make something out of the situation we all find ourselves in, and too often they are at the mercy of confusing and unnecessary government regulations. With that, when it came to my own flight disruptions, I never fought or accused, screamed or threatened. Fighting isn’t going to make the flights take off or get better, but flexibility and forgiveness will help everyone get through upsets together.

I travelled to South Africa with five tour operators from Canada and the United States, so six of us in total. Out of six, on the outbound, three had issues with their flights; same with the return (one of whom was me). Before going into the issues, let me touch upon the take-aways. While flights are still “up in the air” about being up in the air when it comes to consistency and regularity, I would suggest encouraging two nights in the entry city so that if something goes wrong with outbound flights, no one is stressing about missing their domestic flights or safari experiences. If nothing goes wrong, you’ll have more time to relax, get a spa treatment, explore the city, etc. If something does go wrong, you’ve built in a cushion and can carry on without concern. When it comes to booking international flights, I can’t emphasize enough, don’t check luggage (even within an alliance, various airlines aren’t connecting seamlessly with each other right now and so are unable to ticket through the full itinerary, including both the passenger’s boarding ticket or their luggage), choose direct flights as much as possible, and if you have to layover, choose to in the Middle East, or ensure you only have one in Europe (they’re not allowing multiple layovers at the moment). I would also strongly encourage including a VIP Meet & Assist upon arrival to whisk passengers from flight to the front of what could possibly be a long line of document and temperature checks. In my case, it was 15 minutes from disembarking to the security check and passport, so yes, they can really expedite the experience and get guests off to a great entry.

These were some of our flight challenges. Two traveling on KLM from California and Ontario had their flights cancelled in Amsterdam and rebooked on Qatar, which meant they missed their night in Johannesburg entirely and arrived just in time (literally, one with two hours left on the Covid test validity) to get the VIP treatment from Fireblade, which included the MENZIES VIP Meet & Assist, transfer to Fireblade for a shower and refreshments, a quick tour of the facilities (spa and fitness center, day rooms, private State Lounges, etc.), and a few seconds to spare before boarding our first charter to Sabi Sabi. One traveling on Virgin from New York went to do the 24-hour check in and was told the flight had been bumped up to that night instead of the next, and coming back a day earlier as well. Because of this he wasn’t able to get his official Covid test in hand and only had it electronically on his phone, which luckily wasn’t an issue, but then spent time in Johannesburg on the phone solving the problem of the return flight so last night of the trip wasn't missed. Eventually a rebooking happened for the correct return day, but on Lufthansa, and then, the day before departure, another person's flight on KLM was cancelled and also rebooked for the same Lufthansa flight, which meant missing the afternoon of planned touring. 

When it comes to me, I stayed on in South Africa another 10 days longer than the others, and by the time I was meant to depart, many flights out of South Africa were cancelled, and so I spent about two hours every day with United getting rebooked as each day my rebooked fight was also cancelled, which is how I learned the things I did about multiple connections in Europe. I ended up flying out two days later than expected on Ethiopian via Addis to Frankfurt and on to Denver. At the time of publishing this report, numerous countries have imposed travel bans to/from South Africa, so for short-term bookings I would avoid flying through those countries.

Please note that my experience was an unusual, worst-case scenario where a new strain of the virus was identified and governments were canceling flights with immediate effect. As vaccines are rolled out and a more regular flow of air passengers return, we expect fewer, if any, such severe disruptions.

Upon arrival into South Africa, we were all asked for our Covid tests, which were checked over relatively quickly to ensure they were valid, and none of us has any issue at all. Some of us, but not all, were asked if we had downloaded the SA Covid Alert app. None were asked for any other documents. What was interesting as well is that those of us who transferred via Frankfurt on Lufthansa for the inbound weren’t asked to show our Covid test before boarding, nor was I on the outbound (as told to me via Austrian on the phone and as happened with Ethiopian in person) and it seems that more and more airlines are figuring that if you can’t get into the country, it is now up to you to cover the expense of quarantine and testing. At the time of writing this, the transit hotel in Johannesburg was closed, however the Covid testing facilities were open and operating.

TESTING AND ISOLATION

Speaking of Covid testing while in South Africa, you’ll find that many entities are now providing tests on property for a price so that guests needing to get tested can do so easily while still enjoying their safari (this includes Sabi Sabi, Ellerman House, and others; Tswalu is also able to conduct tests as it has a comprehensive Health Clinic on property that also provides staff and their families, and guests needing it, with access to medical staff and basic treatment; Grootbos is located just past Hermanus, which has a private hospital (I can personally endorse it as that is the one my friend works at and so I know a lot about it) and can get a doctor to come to the property and do a test. Guests can also go to the hospital if they need any medical attention. Fireblade Aviation can also have tests done onsite for passengers flying with them.

When it comes to isolation solutions, there are many. Sabi Sabi has postponed opening Little Bush Camp and is using it as a complete isolation center if needed. Tswlau has a Motse Suite on hold just in case as well, and Grootbos also ensures a room is always available. Gorgeous George in Cape Town has taken the entire fifth floor out of inventory and The Silo has two adjoining two-story suites held back.

I had one stand-out situation though that seriously impressed me. As I have a lot of local friends, I spend more time with Capetonians than a typical traveler would. I was with one who went on to test positive for Covid after we were together, and while we were abiding by responsible practices (no hugging, being outside, wearing masks … except for happy hour and dinner of course!) I was still nervous as anyone would be. The day I found out was one of the most emotional and upsetting I’ve had. I immediately told the people I had been traveling with, and called Trans Africa Safaris to contact One&Only Cape Town, where I was supposed to check in that afternoon. In the time it took me to get to the hotel, they cancelled all of my plans, moved me into a first-floor lagoon-facing suite so that I had space and a balcony to isolate and quarantine, and changed my dinner at Nobu to an in-room experience. When I arrived, knowing whom to ask for, I went through the temperature check and sanitizing that other guests would, but stayed outside the hotel while they wiped down and sanitized my bags. I was taken to a private underground tunnel (never went into the hotel) and brought to their on-site health clinic for guests and staff. The nurse did TWO Covid tests: a Rapid Test (R250 - doesn’t come with paperwork) and a PCR Lab Test (R850 - to be returned with paperwork if needed). The Rapid Test came back negative within 10 minutes, at which time I was shown to my sanitized suite, did the full check-in process in the room, and my welcome amenity was brought to the door and handed to the one staff member who was ever in contact with me. I waited about 30 minutes for him to get their Health & Safety Officer to approve my leaving the room, so Nobu was back on, as was exploring the exceptional Esther Mahlangu art collection, working by the pool, watching SUPers pass by, and breathing a bit easier. My second test also came back negative, via email, as did those of all I was traveling with. The Covid Alert SA app, which I had downloaded before landing in South Africa, also let me know that I was in contact with someone on the day in question and gave me information on next steps. Just remember, Bluetooth needs to be turned on for the app to work.

FINDING HAPPINESS
THROUGH HEALTH & HEALING
It’s no secret that I’m a spa girl. I have always been aware of the benefits of body work and seek out therapeutic treatments whenever and wherever I can. South Africa is the country in Africa where I spoil myself the most, even more so than at home, because with the Dollar to Rand exchange rate it’s silly to not take advantage of what’s on offer. And while I’m often at the spa while Johann is at the gym, I did ask about any changes on his behalf.

The biggest difference to accessing a gym that I came across is that guests might need to make an appointment, as properties such as Leeu Estate are limiting numbers so that proper distancing and disinfecting can take place. Lanzerac Estate is also requesting appointments for access to the spa building where the gym is, and also the Jacuzzi, indoor heated pool, Vitality Corner, and more. I booked a full morning at the Ellerman House spa and they, as others, have closed the steam room but are taking appointments for the dry sauna so that it is a private experience with proper cleaning done in between. While some people may have it in their mind that they must have access to everything at all times, properties are following guidelines and doing what is needed to both pamper and protect guests at the same time.
I over-indulged on this trip for sure, because, well, 2020 … the majority of my body work this year has been in Africa, and aren’t we all looking for a little extra love and care right now, physically, mentally and emotionally. If I think of the health and wellness retreats available to me in the United States, I would opt for a week-long retreat in South Africa’s winelands before or after safari any day. And it extends to the bush as well. I had a magnificent massage, which started off with a foot bath ritual, at Sabi Sabi, Tswalu, Lanzerac, and Leeu. Speaking of Leeu, the spa there is run in collaboration with Healing Earth and the products are exceptional. I brought product home from Healing Earth as well as the signature products made onsite at Grootbos and the new product line from Tswalu, too.
EN PLEIN AIR
More activities abound in Africa as well, and spending time outdoors, experiencing nature’s cathartic charms, is recognized as more and more necessary than ever. At Sabi Sabi, we went on a bush walk to where there are ancient San rock paintings on property; you can also walk to the San rock etchings at Tswalu if you’re keen for more of a climb. Instead of walking, we opted for horse riding at Tswalu, so we could take in the vast landscape, which, while referred to as the Green Kalahari anyway, was an unseasonably extra vivid green because of early rains. When it rains in the Kalahari, animals sing a different song and one of our safari soundtracks was the comical croaking of the Bubbling Kassina frog. Plus, the flora comes alive in brilliant ways, and it was special to see the red earth dotted with vibrant vegetation as we literally rode into the sunset atop a dune. 

For equestrians, you can also easily go horse riding at Grootbos or Lanzerac as both have stables onsite. And for cyclists, Lanzerac has bikes for rent on property as well, and, in being nestled at the base of the Jonkershoek Nature Reserve you can go on long hikes as often as you like. At Leeu, I loved going for The Vineyard Walk, which takes you through the estate where countless sculptures have been placed as an extension to the exhibitions in the new Everard Read gallery onsite. Another property with a walk through the vineyards where you can see modern sculptures scattered throughout the historic Cape Dutch estate is Steenberg, which is also located right next to the Norvall Foundation for more “en plein air” art.

From The Residence in Johannesburg (which also has three pools and a tennis court for on-property outside activity), The Wilds is only a five-minute drive away and the hotel will take care of complimentary transfers there and elsewhere. The Wilds is a wonderful, walkable green space with various artworks planted throughout, the majority of which are by artist James Delany who spearheaded the project, and several by others who have offered their time and talent. How this botanical nature reserve got renewed is a special story, and just being able to get outside for fresh air and a forest walk is for me the textbook way to adjusted to a new time zone. I especially loved the serendipity of learning that James had just returned from Grootbos two weeks prior, with indigenous plants in hand to help with the ongoing restoration of The Wilds.

Grootbos understands the healing powers of nature as well, and has a new activity, which is a forest walk and morning meditation with one of their guides who recently went through Zen training. Another recent addition is having access to a boat that takes guests gliding along the Klein River where you spend several hours birding (we spotted 50 during our time; in March they had four of South Africa’s top birders and in a two-hour boat ride spotted 85 birds, which was a new record) or simply breathing. If you’d rather bathe, you can make your way down to the Atlantic and go for a dip, or just walk along the empty beach and enjoy endless solitude. 

Another place I went for a swim was at The Silo, which has a rooftop salt-water pool with the most jaw-dropping views of Table Mountain, which I also enjoyed from the 360-degree viewing platform, and oh yeah, my suite, especially at night where I clicked this pic ... one of my favorites from the trip! There is ample outdoor socializing space on the roof, which offered a consistent breeze while wining and dining. And of course, being located above Zeitz MOCAA, guests have preferred access to this awesome museum, and both hotel and museum alike offer outdoor opportunities to appreciate art. 

Gorgeous George also has a rooftop pool, that is designed to feel somewhat grotto-like. The day-time sunning area with chaises can be converted into an evening lounging area with couches for more socializing as GiGi, the sophisticated lounge and terrarium-like terrace, welcomes a wonderful blend of locals bringing the vibe alive. For a true urban location (which I love because you can leave and walk around one of my favorite parts of the city) with an industrial feel, the double-pained windows made it one of the quietest nights’ sleep I’ve had in a city center, and with the black-out shades it was one of the best sleep-ins I’ve had. 
But not everyone wants to be in the center of the city. While the Mother City is one of my all-time favorites, it can be nice to escape the fast pace and settle into a place like Ellerman House. More than ever, rest, relaxation, and rejuvenation is a main requirement of mine (and I’m sure of many others) and Ellerman House delivered! Plus, for art lovers like me, Ellerman House is an experience unto itself as there are around 1,000 works of art with about 800 hanging at any given time. Guests can have an art tour with curator Talita, or book her for private tours of galleries and museums throughout the city. There is ample outdoor space for distancing while swimming, dining, checking out the sculptures, or simply watching the sea and breathing in some sweet salt air. Oh yeah, I also think they have the best turndown gift ever, some seriously stylin’ socks.
SILVER LININGS IN SOUTH AFRICA
Despite the difficulties of 2020, many people have been sharing that the slow time staying home provided time to reflect on and rebalance life. Just as some individuals made the most of staying at home, many properties found deeper purpose in new accomplishments as well. I think of it as “Covid Creativity”. One of Grootbos’ success stories is my favorite: during lockdown researchers onsite spent time exploring the conservancy and discovered an entirely new species to science. How remarkable is that?!

While it is being officially named now, it was referred to as “Indigofera” by Chris Lochner, Grootbos’ artist-in-residence, who painted it as part of the florilegium Grootbos is producing. The artist-in-residence program and florilegium project is documenting the 800+ species on the conservancy. Chris is a scientific illustrator focusing on botanical art, and walked us through the program. He touched upon the importance of showcasing the various species in a way where people can easily connect with them, helping to change the way we connect with nature in general. A florilegium is a collection of illustrations of plants, and is a legacy project of sorts with a hard copy book in the works. Countless South African artists are working with Grootbos on this project, and 2021 will have international artists joining in as well. The permanent collection will remain at Grootbos in perpetuity and prints are sold on property. We learned about many of the fynbos we saw pictured on our flower safari, which took us past the research center being used by universities and youth programs alike, past the bee hives, and of course ended with a stop at the Grootbos Foundation headquarters to see what they’ve been doing with their Green Futures project, the feeding program they started during 2020, as well as research into leopards, insects, and more. They plan to introduce an entomology experience for guests who want to be part of the project they’re working on to document the biodiversity of the Southern Hemisphere species. 
This conservation work is a part of what is required for Grootbos to be a member of The Long Run, in addition to the sustainable practices on property, and we even learned about how they measure their overall eco-footprint. Tswalu is the newest member of The Long Run as of 2020, as they have always focused on the 4Cs and ensuring that their commercial, conservation, community and cultural preservation activities are operating at the highest level of integrity. I am always reminded of Tswalu’s mission and meaning - a new beginning - when I see the Tswalu logo or have a chat with the various researchers or artists-in-residence on property. Last year, Tswalu enhanced its conservation platform by elevating the Kalahari Endangered Ecosystem Project (KEEP), which is an ongoing all-encompassing, multidisciplinary study. To help fund KEEP while supporting wildlife artists, the Tswlau Foundation in partnership with the Warren Cary Wildlife Gallery launched the KEEP Art Exhibition online, and I was able to see a number of the new pieces in the boutique at Tswalu. Other accomplishments from 2020 include a refurb on the private five-bedroom Tarkuni homestead, building the new Naledi sleep-out deck (one of my favorite experiences was always the Malori sleep-out tent, and for real adventurers and purists who want an unobstructed under-the-stars experience, I can’t think of a more comfortable way to become one with the universe then this new deck pictured above), and enhancing photographic offerings with a new customized photographic safari vehicle on property! Each guest party always receives a private vehicle, all of which have a pair of Zeiss Terra ED 10X42 binos, and now there are various lenses to rent and binos to buy at the photographic studio as well. 
During sundowners at Ellerman House, we were serenaded by live music and I learned more about their Music for Meals initiative started in March 2020, created out of the need for food in the Cape Town communities. They teamed up with top musicians and creative chefs to offer virtual performances and classes as a way of raising funds to continue preparing and providing meals to those who need them most. Ellerman House also used time in 2020 to prepare for the launch of two new craft offerings: a signature red blend, The Ellerman 2018, made in collaboration with one of South Africa’s renowned winemakers, Erika Oberymeyer, and a namesake Fynbos Gin made in collaboration with Inverroche. The wine, which we sampled during dinner, has already won 5* by Platter’s Wine Guide … what a great segue to the next section ...
FABULOUSLY BRILLIANT F&B
In my group we had a vegan and a celiac, and every property did the most amazing job of catering to our needs with the most sophisticated of offerings. Local is what libations are all about, as well as seasonal ingredients from as close to the properties as possible for what goes on the plates. We met with Executive Chef Marnus Scully at Tswalu to learn more about what’s coming in 2021 regarding Klein Jan (yep, that’s all I can say for now about the new restaurant onsite from South Africa's first Michelin-star Chef, Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen!), and with Nicole, Sommelier at Grootbos to learn more about the wines of the Hemel-En-Aarde, a newer and more modern, focused wine region with virgin fertile soil producing some very up and coming wines. Grootbos can help set up highly personalized wine tours of the area for your guests. Grootbos has also purchased a cellar full of Cape Winemakers Guild bottles and other wines you will have a very hard time finding elsewhere. This is an investment in time as there are numerous bottles being laid down for future, and they are also building up verticals so guests can do an interesting tasting onsite as well. 

I’m still salivating over our stay at Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge! The cuisine and cocktails were coveted, and conversations went late into the night. I joked that we had all missed dinner parties and in-person clinking of glasses so much we didn’t want it to end, which was why some of us were still around the table at 2am. On game drives we saw more animals than on an ark, so much so that our hand-sanitized sundowners in the bush really took place as the stars were already coming up.
I learned during my wine tasting at Lanzerac that they were the first estate to commercially bottle Pinotage, and have gone on to win more awards then they have space to showcase. I honestly loved every wine I sampled here so can see how they have accolades piled on top of each other. For dinner I splurged and bought a bottle I fell in love with during the tasting: Le General 2016.

Also out in wine country, Le Petit Colombe is in its new modern restaurant space at Leeu Estate, and they spent time last year building more dining spaces at the Manor House, including a glass atrium and outside patio. They also converted the library into a bar and lounge. I enjoyed a wine tasting at the Mullineux & Leeu Wine Studio before dinner at Le Chene, but have to say the best of the best was the breakfast, my favorite so far, because it really doesn’t take a lot to add a healthy green option to a brekkie menu and get it right!
CHANGES FOR COVID

Just like every other country and property I experienced in 2020, temperatures are taken and recorded upon arrival, hand sanitizing is mandatory and mask wearing requested in public areas. QR codes are King in the Covid era; the majority of the hotels in Cape Town have removed the majority of paper products in favor of QR codes (Sabi Sabi, Ellerman House, The Silo, and Lanzerac out in wine country). Single use items are still on the rise as shared items aren’t allowed, so paper is replacing hand towels and napkins everywhere, and sometimes you’ll come across plastic-wrapped remotes and welcome amenities. At Sabi Sabi, they have slightly changed their turndown service or made service available upon request, as they did at Grootbos and Steenberg as well, and many properties told me of longer turn-around times because they are fogging rooms for extra deep cleaning (I really did love the way The Silo handed this, with golden tassel to show that the room has been fully fogged and a red tassel for do not disturb). Vehicle and boat capacities have been limited for social distancing. Lanzerac is limiting cellar tours to in-house guests only, and only up to about a dozen people, though you can request a private tour based upon availability. And yet, with all the changes, smiles are shining through from behind masks. There is simply still no better place to be than in South Africa and on safari! 

HELLO & WELCOME FROM YOUR FRIENDS 
Warren van Niekerk, General Manager of The Residence Johannesburg
Jan Scholtz, Trade Relations Manager of Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve
Nigel Pace, Hospitality Director of Tswalu Kalahari
Paul Bruce-Brand, General Manager of Ellerman House
Michael Lutzeyer, Owner/Managing Director of Grootbos Private Nature Reserve
Anne Scott, General Manager of One&Only Cape Town
Peter Kunz, General Manager of Gorgeous George
Irene Boaventura, Duty Manager & Art Concierge of The Silo
Catherine Schulze, General Manager of Steenberg Hotel & Spa
Patrick Fisher, Operations Manager and Covid Officer at Lanzerac
Sarita Kielblock, Sales Manager of Leeu Collection
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