Dear <<First Name>>
If you’ve not watched Get Me Roger Stone on Netflix, you’re missing out on a fascinating bit of TV. The eponymous American political lobbyist, consultant and fixer is, to me at least, a rebarbative figure, but in this documentary, he’s also shown to have his interesting, perceptive moments. Take his (typically self-aggrandizing) concept of the “four stages of fame”, which goes something like this: 1. Who is Roger Stone? 2. Get me Roger Stone. 3. Get me a Roger Stone type. 4. Who is Roger Stone?
Enoch Powell, another similarly divisive figure, once said that all political careers end in failure. It’s not just politics that works that way either. Every brand, every concept, dare I say it – every human being, has a shelf life. “One day you’re cock of the walk, the next you’re a feather duster,” as the TV presenter and journalist, Piers Morgan, likes to remind us.
Some things stick at the top for longer than others, but they, too, will eventually fall out of favour.
The same thing applies to wine – to wine styles, grape varieties, producers, regions and even whole countries. Falernian was the most sought-after red in Ancient Rome; Mosel wines sold at higher prices than top Burgundies and clarets in the Victorian era; Canary wine was all the rage in the 17th century. In my own time as a wine writer, I’ve witnessed the rise and fall of Beaujolais Nouveau; of Bulgarian Cabernet Sauvignon; of big, buttery Aussie Chardonnay.
As Shelley’s great sonnet Ozymandias reminds us, almost everything is impermanent. Today’s most famous wine producers and mass-market brands won’t be around forever. Climate change in particular is rapidly turning the world of wine on its head. Who knows what we’ll be drinking in ten, let alone 50 years’ time. Roger Stone, or a Roger Stone type, is probably on the case.
Cheers,
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“There’s truth and there’s Chinese truth.” Protected by the size and success of its economy, China has recently made two moves that severely impact the success of the international wine industry. In my latest article for Harpers, republished on my site, I ponder whether the monetary value of trading with China is worth the ever-increasing moral compromise. It’s a particularly prescient question in wake of the extreme tariffs imposed on Australian imports and the hush-hush suspension of all WSET courses in the country. China is playing by its own rules. So what can we do about it?
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90 points
Always one of Rioja’s great bargains, this wonderfully juicy cuvée of Tempranillo and 5% Viura from brothers Arturo and Kike de Miguel is a classic carbonic maceration style that dates back to the 19th century and was popularised by the so-called “cosecheros”. Showing masses of perfume, it’s a tangy, crunchy, cement-fermented delight that combines perfume with vibrant summer berry fruit. Unwooded Rioja at its individual best.
£12.50; £10.95 by the case, 13.5%, Lea & Sandeman
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My head, if not the rest of my body, has been in Rioja over the last two weeks while I’ve been writing my annual report. I normally visit the region during the harvest in late September, which is when I took this photo in the courtyard at López de Heredia in Haro’s Barrio de la Estación. It’s a very special thing to see harvest being executed in such a traditional way – the smells and sounds are something else. I can’t wait to be back.
If you’re interested in buying signed prints of any of my photos, email me at admin@timatkin.com.
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Eric Bibb is a great blues guitarist and singer, who deserves to be much better known. I’ve heard him live a few times, but the most memorable was at Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club in London. I got chatting to him after the gig and said, “I wish you’d played ‘Panama Hat’ this evening.” He smiled and touched the brim of his signature Panama. “Come back tomorrow and I’ll do it as a special request,” he said. He kept his word. “It’s going to take some time, but I’m a patient guy.”
PS If you like my weekly music recommendations, I have collected them on my Spotify playlist titled ‘Music to Drink Wine to’.
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Daniel Daou was born in Lebanon, brought up in France and now lives in the United States. After selling the software business he created with his brother in the late 1990s, he decided to follow his dream and become a winemaker in Paso Robles, California after scouring the world in search of the perfect spot. We chat about Cabernet Sauvignon, affordable luxuries, why grapes should be treated like food and about the missile attack that changed his life forever.
Don’t forget, Cork Talk is now available on Spotify. You can listen to this week’s episode, plus my back catalogue of interviews.
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During the first lockdown last year, Anne McHale MW and I teamed up to do a couple of really fun virtual tastings with Davy’s Wine Merchants. And now, by popular demand, they’re back.
If you’re keen to learn more about wine from the comfort of your sofa, these live events give you the chance to enjoy six bottles over three consecutive Thursday evenings, tasting alongside us via Instagram live.
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As well as my weekly Podcasts with some of the wine world’s leading lights, I interview the subject at greater length on Instagram Live, so you can join in and ask some questions of your own.
These are on my @timatkinmw account. You can watch back-episodes on my IGTV channel, or join us on the night.
This weekend’s mystery guest is soon to be crowned Winemaking Legend in my 2021 Rioja report. He will be joining me at 7.20pm, after I have announced all of the other winners.
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Over the past 10 years, I’ve published more than 40 in-depth reports covering Latin America, South Africa, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Brunello di Montalcino and Spain. I’ve walked every vineyard, interviewed every producer and tasted every wine to bring you the inside track on the very best these regions have to offer. My most recent report, South Africa 2020, and all past reports are available to purchase on my website.
My next report, Rioja 2021, will be published on February 15th, preceded by a launch on Instagram Live at 7pm (UK) on the 14th.
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