Journalists warn a lot about toxic ingredients in cosmetics.
But the cosmetics industry, using massive marketing campaigns, makes customers totally mind blind with fake ideas and believes.
Lets me explain 3 believes that are wrong, useless and unsafe for your skin, family health and environment!
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"Creams restore the skin hydro-lipidic film"
What is a cream?
Creams are made of oil and water.
To get an cream (also called emulsion) that is stable, these 2 ingredients need a third one, an emulsifier.
Without an emulsifier, the blend will separate itself. Because oil doesn't mix with water.
What is the cream purpose?
Originally, creams/emulsions were designed as excipients for a pharmaceutical purpose: a medication cream made from active molecules that could be soluble in either watery and fatty components.
These creams needed to be neutral.
That is why the pharma-industry uses paraffin or petrolatum (petroleum based) and water (the aqueous part).
After using those pharmaceutical creams for a while, they discovered that emulsions bring some comfort to the skin with a feeling of less dry and less pulling.
Why does the cosmetics industry sell creams/emulsions?
Cosmetics industry sells dreams.
To justify an interest of cream to customers, cosmetics industry uses a pseudo scientific jargon.
To sell the dream for customers, they use the analogy between the composition of the cream and the hydrolipidic film (oil/water).
Then, the concept of the hydrolipidic layer of skin was born.
But what is the hydrolipidic film?
In France we have plenty of brands which sell skin care products for skin problems.
Following one of the most famous brands, the Roche-Posay glossary says:
"The hydrolipidic film is a protective film that covers the entire surface of the skin. It is composed mainly of sweat, sebum and water and its main function is to defend the skin against bacteria, acting as an external protective barrier. It also helps the skin to maintain its suppleness and moisture."
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My believes on hydrolipidic film
- Our skin flora contains massive of microorganisms
- They are essential for the proper balance of the skin process
- To survive, they need to live in an acidic pH, as a such pH limits the growth of pathogenic microorganisms
- The lipid component keeps the skin moisture and prevent evaporation of water
- This clearly means that the hydrolipidic film, is a mixture of sweat, sebum and dead cells that our skin produces every day
- So there is no need to restore the hydrolipidic film as it is our skin daily job!!!!
- Creams made of petroleum products block the skin process making it lazy
- When your skin doesn't work properly, it asks more cosmetic care to do the job for itself
- You have the impression that those types of cares bring comfort, suppleness and moisture
"Moisturise your skin to keep it balanced"
To maintain a normal hydration (soft and balanced), the skin needs to have 13% of water in the stratum corneum (epidermis).
- Below 12% of water in the epidermis, the skin becomes dry and atopic
- The lipid production (called sebum) increases its level to reinforce a barrier function to the aim to preventing water from evaporating
When water is applied on the skin, it quickly evaporates.
This is the case of water cream made from more water than oil.
They DO NOT moisturize your skin at all. They make it dryer!
When you take your shower, your skin doesn't get hydration but just water.
- The hydration actually comes from moisturizing agents, such as glycerin, urea, carrier oils,...
- They increase the comfort of the skin
- BUT
- Without treating it
You are better off water or humectants if you want to help your skin to retain its moisture by itself.
Carrier oils have the advantage to be made with the same fatty acids as sebum or lipid cement, and they go fill the gaps in fatty acids of the skin.
With their help, your skin plays its protective role against dehydration.
You have to nourish the skin
When I was a teenager my skin was oily.
I have been told by a dermatologist to moisturise my skin by day and nourish it by night.
As you can imagine my skin was glowing all the time and I had to change my pillows every morning as they were ruined after the nightt!!!!
Dermatologists & Laboratories
Dermatologists work for laboratories.
OR
Laboratories pay dermatologists to sell their products.
This is their mutual interest to sell 2 different emulsions, they make bigger money:
- An emulsion oil in water during the day
- An emulsion water-in-oil during the night
They justify 2 types of creams instead of one! And you buy both :-(
My Truth
The truth is that your skin is nourished by the food you eat!
Feed well your inside, your skin will be well fed.
Skin needs fatty acids (omega 3) to build a correct anti-dehydration barrier.
By day, use a facial serum made only with carrier oils. They are not always oily. Some are and some are not.
By night, your skin regenerates itself as all of your body cells.
If you don't have any particular skin issues, your skin need no care by night.
The best thing you can provide to your skin by night is to apply nothing.
Just let it sleep.
A good sleep means a beautiful skin!
My best advices for skin
Bring to the skin all its needs by eating a balanced food and be careful of your diet
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How do you feel your skin?
My mojo is if it's eatable, my skin can eat it :-)))))))
Thanks for reading, your support and wishing you a wonderful Summer equinox!
Stay beautifully healthy until the next time :-)
If you find these infos relevant, feel free to share with friends. Thank you :-)
With Love & Gratitude,
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PS 1:
Clinic is only available in Spiddal
only on appointments following specific guidances
PS 2:
Our apothecary is still up & running
your remedies are tailored only from sourced & organic ingredients
that Nature offers ;-)
So, DO feel welcome to be in touch
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Chi Nei Tsang
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