Welcome to the December eNews

The Covid pandemic caused a drastic reduction in monthly Branch meetings during the period 2020−2022. Fortunately, the Branches have (more or less) resumed pre-pandemic member attendance numbers throughout 2023. There’s nothing like meeting in person for a chat and a cuppa, a talk from an expert, plant sales and swaps, etc. And many Branches have formed WhatsApp groups to facilitate member contact between monthly meetings.

The pandemic brought us regular BCSS Zoom Talks. They took place weekly at the height of the lockdown, and were then reduced to two per month. They will continue during 2024 but at a rate of just one per month. The first will take place on Tuesday, 9 January 2024 (full details in next month’s eNews). I think we underestimate the important role that BCSS Zoom Talks have played in holding our community together during these turbulent times. To the organizers and the presenters of BCSS Zoom Talks: a big thank you!

Brian Ayres (Editor)

From the Chairman

Once again I would like to thank everyone involved in the running of the Society. These volunteers are the backbone of the charity and nothing would happen without them. We have seen many people come forward to fill new (and existing) roles – do you have some spare time that you could volunteer? Do get in contact with me if you feel that you do, however much or little time you can manage.

With high energy prices here to stay I’m sure many of us are considering the kind of plants that we grow. With growing from seed a clear economic winner, will you be taking advantage of the Society’s seed list to try something different to what you usually grow? 

Since my message last December there have been significant developments in adapting the Society to changing times. Due to the work of a meticulous team, headed by Paul Doyle, the new website and membership database was delivered at the end of last year and will be fundamental in membership growth and retention. Numerous shows and other Society-organised events continued to be held – if you’re considering putting on a new event do contact the Shows Committee to discuss if funding/other support may be available. For the year ahead we have a ‘Society first’ to look forward to next August, but more on that shall be revealed in early 2024.

Finally, as we head into the festive period, I’d like to wish all growers a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year – may 2024 be a great year for you and your plants!

Season’s greetings,

Greg Bulmer,

BCSS Chairman

Fig. 1 Acanthocalycium spiniflorum (Photo by David Ilett)

There are a total of 18 articles that cover cacti and succulents from Chile, Kenya, Brazil, Japan, Bolivia (see Fig. 2), Argentina, South Africa and Greece. Closer to home we look at what succulents can be grown outdoors with a little protection from the elements, what sort of grit to use in your potting compost, and what BCSS members in the Orkney Islands of Scotland are getting up to these days.

Fig. 2 Cactus exploring in Bolivia (Photo by Stephanie Li)

There are accounts of three new discoveries. Cultivation notes on how to care for the winter-growing (in the UK) elephant’s foot, Dioscorea elephantidens. Plus, all the regular features such as Zlatko’s Favourites, Presidential Plants and Succulents Contained. A couple of books are reviewed and these might make ideal Christmas presents.

Fig. 3 B&W photography in Greece (Photo by Vangelis Vassalakis)

What is the largest cactus flower? How do the Japanese use edible cacti in restaurants? What do cacti and succulents look like in black and white photography at an art exhibition in Athens, Greece (see Fig. 3)?  There’s only one way to find out, and that’s by becoming a subscriber to the British Cactus & Succulent Society – join online at bcss.org.uk

eNews Readers' Schlumbergera Appreciation 

Caudiciform Plants

Text and photos by Bob Potter

I think that most of us who are growing succulents have some idea of what is meant by a caudiciform plant, but to find a meaningful definition of caudiciform is very difficult. Even if we look up the definition of caudex, the result can have no real meaning to us.

So, what can we say about these plants? I think it is fair to say that it was not until the 1970s that the term caudiciform plant was bandied around. It was the likes of BCSS members Fred Evans, who I believe came from Yorkshire, and Keith Grantham who were originally instrumental in getting these plants on to the collector’s radar. It was not long before the nurserymen of the time were making such plants readily available. And still, they have a great appeal to collectors.

There was a tendency in the early days to refer to these uncommon plants as TCPs or, in other words, The Caudiciform Plants. This epithet was taken up by another section of the cactus and succulent fraternity who ordained that such plants be known as Turnips, Carrots and Parsnips. All I can say is, ‘Shame on you! You know who you are!’

The basic premise for a caudiciform plant is that it exhibits either a swollen main stem or a thickened trunk; a plant with a thick trunk can also be known as a pachycaul. However, many plants have a swollen tuber that remains underground with just some annual leaves arising to show on the surface of the soil. These types of plants are best termed as geophytic. Most collectors grow them with the tubers partially exposed on the soil surface, allowing them to fit nicely into our perception of a caudiciform plant.

There are many genera that can have plants fitting the caudiciform criteria. When we think of succulents having caudiciform tendencies we don’t normally include cactus plants. But there are some cacti that fit the bill, for example Pterocactus. However, for me it is the succulents that usually come to mind when discussing caudiciform plants.

As mentioned above, most collectors will present their caudiciform plants with the swollen tuber potted so that it is partially exposed above the soil surface. There are certain benefits befitting this method, one being that it does tend to prevent the rotting of the tuber. However, if carried out correctly, there is nothing wrong with emulating the plant’s habitat characteristic and burying the whole tuber below soil surface. It should be said that if this method is employed the substrate used should be very free draining and not prone to remaining wet for any significant period.

I now always use pumice for my substrate which allows water to drain through very quickly and does not stay wet. The downside to this is that when all the top growth dies back, which is inevitable with a lot of caudiciforms, then there is nothing to see in the pot. It is often said by many collectors that it is the unusual shapes of the caudex that is the main attraction, so that aspect is lost if the caudex is completely buried. I usually have a mix of both regimes, buried completely or partially buried, so how you do it is up to you. However you do it, the principal factor remains that there should be no soil remaining wet for any long period.

As the term caudiciform can be applied to many species within many genera, and considering the geographical range of such plants, it is almost impossible to be precise in forming a cultivation regime. What works for me is that generally I keep my plants at a minimum winter temperature of 17°C and as for watering I usually let the plants tell me when not to water at the end of the growing season by observing when leaves and any top growth start to turn brown and wither. When this occurs my normal watering regime is cut back so that I am only giving plants a light water about once a month. However, I can do this because of the high temperature I keep in the greenhouse. I realise that many people are not able to maintain this temperature, but plants will withstand a lower temperature if kept a bit drier. I always say, if in doubt, bring plants into the house for the winter (space and other occupants permitting of course).

Caudiciform plants can be very rewarding to grow and generally cause no great cultivation problems. As already stated, they can cover a large range of species that will exhibit wonderful and diverse shapes, form and texture. I would advise anyone who has not grown such plants to have a go and experience the delights for yourself.

A good source of information is the website www.bihrmann.com/Caudiciforms This contains much more than you will ever need to know plus a lot of pictures. A good reference book is ‘Caudiciform and Pachycaul Succulents’ by Gordon Rowley. It is out of print, but second-hand copies are occasionally available.

I wish you good growing.

Succulents on coffee creamer lids!

Text and photos by Les Pearcy

If you thought last month’s offering was a tad different then this month’s exposé shows what can happen when the collecting bug really takes over. Not content with stamps, covers and postcards I have also started to acquire ‘other’ succulent related collectibles.

Kaffeerahm is a Swiss company that produces pots of coffee creamer. They not only feature cacti on the lids but also just about any topic you can think of.

This set in Figure 1 (below) features thirty cacti in flower.

The species shown are, from top left:

Line 1: Ariocarpus fissuratus, Coryphantha elephantidens, C. rosea, Echinocereus dasyacanthus, E. subinermis, Encephalocarpus strobiliformis, Neolloydia smithii, Thelocactus hexaedrophorus

Line 2: Escobaria asperispina, E. chaffeyi, E. hesteri, E. missouriensis, E. strobiliformis, Hamatocactus setispinus

Line 3: Turbinicarpus horripilus, T. pseudomacrochele, T. pseudopectinatus, Pelecyphora asseliformis, Aylostera supthutiana, Rebutia diersiana, Acanthocalycium violaceum, Neochilenia chilensis

Line 4: Mammillaria blossfeldiana, M. boolii, M. pectinifera, M. senilis, M. yaquensis, M. woodsii, Notocactus flaviflorus

Fig. 2  Close-up of the species highlighted in lines 3 and 4 of the list above

Autumnal update from Murcia

Text and photos by Valerie Fuller

Well, here we are in December and still no rain apart from an hour of drizzle two months ago that was kind enough to wash some of the dust from the trees and other plants. I'm so glad the gardens are virtually all down to cacti and succulents. The only good thing about the lack of our seasonal rain is the fact that weeds are few and far between! I must use a pickaxe to plant anything and then soak the planting hole with several buckets of water before putting the plant in place; the ground is that hard. 

The 150 olive trees are the only plants that receive irrigation via a drip system but even they are looking sad. Some olive trees are laden, and some are completely olive-free − which is normal − but this year the fruits (or drupes, to use the correct term) are quite small. The crop is going to be very small and I’ll be surprised if it makes a ton. In the last four or five years the crop has ranged from 2.5 tons to 3.5 tons, so this is a really bad year. Olives are going to be expensive this year and the oil even more so − be prepared for 50 euros for five litres! 

Succulents never cease to amaze me. Despite the summer heat and the ongoing drought, the plants are thriving and flowering (Figures 1 and 2). And many of the Aloes are either in flower or preparing to flower with buds popping up everywhere. 

Some, such as A. reitzii (Fig. 5) and A. tororoa, are first time bloomers, which I always look forward to. 

Two cacti I was particularly excited to see in flower for the first time were Haageocereus (Fig. 7) and the majestic Trichocereus terscheckii.  I’m not sure which species of Haageocereus I have but it may be H. pseudomelanostele.  It does have beautiful pink flowers. The flowers on the T. terscheckii were too high up for me to take photos!  It was, like many in the gardens, sown and grown by Robin about 20 years ago. Paco, a Spanish friend, had three or four from us and his have flowered several times over the years. Our plants receive only water that comes from the sky, of which there is precious little. Paco’s wife, on the other hand, is very house-proud and, each week washes the dust from the beauties in front of their house. This, of course, is probably the reason for their regular flower shows!

In the greenhouse, mealy bugs have been an ongoing pest. I have a few Aeoniums and I’m constantly rooting amongst their leaves to try and keep on top of the white death. I sowed some seeds from a large variegated Ferocactus two months ago and was amazed at how quickly they germinated and grew (Fig. 8). I couldn’t resist transplanting one last week and it looks fine. I also sowed seed from a few Aloes including A. vaombe and A. eximia  earlier in the year so there are many plants in pots waiting to go in the ground. The vaombe especially is looking quite strong.

Fig. 8 Seedlings of a variegated species of Ferocactus

I fervently hope it rains soon as this area of Murcia province in south-east Spain is desperately struggling with this drought. The only saving grace at the moment is that we are finally free of the unbearably high temperatures we have endured all summer and into autumn. It was 8°C towards dawn this morning but soon warmed up to 20 degrees or so with temperatures in the mid-20s expected for next week – but no mention of any rain!

Fig. 1 Eriosyce chilensis

Fig. 2 Thelocephala esmeraldana

Eriosyce proper, heralding endemically from Chile, are very slow growing species and as such are often grafted in cultivation. Unlike some of the other genera lumped into Eriosyce, the main species are a little shy to flower and need to be quite large before they will do so. In habitat these venerable plants can be 100s of years old and their golden spines glow with the sun behind them. They need a very free draining compost, and most growers are tending towards mineral compost to keep them happy. If you are a lumper though, there is only supposedly one species, with other names being subspecies at best or geographical variants. That species is Eriosyce aurata (Fig. 3). However, the name is somewhat of a misnomer, as the spines can go from golden through to black and everything in between.  It is almost always single-headed, unless damaged. It has very strong spines and ribs and resembles Echinocactus grusonii (more on that species in the next episode). New spines can often be coloured differently and become darker over time. But for me at least they are shy to flower. However, I have seen growers flower the species well, but they have all been bigger plants (greater than 18cm).

Fig. 4 Eriosyce ceratistes

Fig. 5 Eriosyce rodentiophila

The Succulent portion of E has much less controversy around it and I would be surprised if every collection didn’t contain at least one of these: Echeveria. 

Although the controversy over taxonomy doesn’t arise, their promiscuity may. Echeverias have been crossed with most members of the Crassulaceae to produce intergeneric hybrids, such as Pachyverias, Sedeverias and Graptoverias. Whether true Echeverias or their intergeneric hybrids, they are all grown as true leaf succulents for their patterns, shape and texture. 

In terms of identification, one thing that will enable you to distinguish them from all the other Crassulaceae is their flowers. Count the lobes within the bell flowers and there should be five. Other genera will have different numbers. The flowers also offer a unique cultivation opportunity. The leaves on the stem of the flower stalk (or bracts) can be used to propagate the plants in a manner similar to leaf propagation. The latter is the main source of propagation for Echeverias. However, some species such as Echeveria laui (Fig. 6), need to use the bracts to have the best chance to propagate. In fact, Echeveria can be split into two sections for propagation: farinose and non-farinose. Most farinose plants such as Echeveria tolimanensis (Fig. 7) will need bracts from which to propagate. Others will usually be propagated from leaves.

The other mode of propagation is beheading. Over time some varieties, especially the frillies such as ‘Fred Wass’, will need beheading every two to three years to prevent them becoming too leggy. If you keep the stumps, or even leave a ring of leaves on the stump, they will often proliferate and give new heads to take off and root down.  These heads are best left over an empty pot for a couple of weeks before placing on soil and roots may already be forming in this time.

Fig. 6 Echeveria laui showing bracts on the flower stem

Fig. 7 Echeveria tolimanensis

Echeveria is one of the few succulent genera that live in the Americas and it tends to be very widespread. In cultivation it generally does not need much special care. However, some varieties do seem to act as a magnet for mealy bugs, especially Echeveria purpusorum (Fig. 8).

One of the most widely available varieties or cultivars is Echeveria agavoides (Fig. 9). This can vary from almost completely green, to red edges, to purple leaves and is a firm favourite of collectors.  Due to their natural geography, Echeverias can take full sun, but can survive with some dappled shade, but will become etiolated in full shade.

Figs. 8 Echeveria purpusorum, mealy bug free (for once!)

Fig. 9 Echeveria agavoides 

Despite the garden centres trying to sell us Echeveria plants for the borders, none are completely hardy in our climate due to the amount of rain we receive. However, some will tolerate colder temperatures. As long as they are kept dry, plants such as Echeveria elegans can survive outside all year round.

The Mammillaria Society Journal

The latest Mammillaria Journal appeared in mid-November and members are busy sending off for their free seeds. The seed offering is just one of the benefits of joining the Mammillaria Society. As a member you receive four journals per year covering Mammillaria, Escobaria, Coryphantha, Thelocactus and Turbinicarpus. There are also four Zoom talks per year by well-respected UK and international speakers. And of course, the free seed offering (UK only) is available every November.

Subscribe now for 2024 and join the Society. It’s still just £13 for UK, £20 for Europe and £24 for other countries.

You can join online at: https://mammillaria.net/product-category/membership-options/

OR just visit the website for further information: https://mammillaria.net/

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