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The real climbing then went up and up for an hour or two. We were eventually to a plateau between the two volcanoes for a flat bit, craning our necks to see the next challenge. This was now a climb involving both hands and feet. Carla was undeterred and it was too late to turn back regardless. Poor footing and any available handhold made the ascent increasingly slow and arduous, hazards obvious when looking to either side or below.
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Bruceki’s camera is entertained by a couple of Canucks slowly
inching down one of the descents.
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We clawed our way up to Red Crater, the highest elevation of the entire crossing. Unwelcome clouds scudded across the sky, more layers of clothing added as the wind picked up. But the scenery was a knockout! Red volcanic rock, turquoise and green ponds, hissing steam vents, and spread out below to the north was the great Lake Taupo.
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The Red Crater was the ultimate summit in the up-and-down trek between the active volcanoes with steam occasionally arising at our feet.
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The Red Crater displays colour recently spewed from deep within the volcano.
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Comfort food emerges from the knapsacks.
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Behind some rocks we found shelter from the wind and chowed down while taking in the scene. But time was ticking and other hikers were moving on. The descent from Red Crater proved to be the most difficult segment of the entire Crossing as the footing was loose and uncertain, more hazardous than the previous ascent. We took our time, reluctant to join the casualty list.
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Carla keeps a death-grip on Bruceki’s knapsack during a descent in the high country.
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The Emerald Lakes, lovely to look at but not a source of drinking water as the ponds are heavily mineralized from volcanic activity.
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After descending from the higher elevations we look back toward the saddle between the two volcanoes we’ve just passed through.
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A long flat stretch was easy walking though still too high for vegetation.
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The shoreline of Blue Lake was the immediate destination for a promised adult beverage from Bruceki’s knapsack.
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The long slow descent was easy walking, often with volcanic steam rising between tufts of vegetation or hissing from larger cracks in the volcanic rock.
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Vegetation increases during the descent. Lake Rotoaira is just to the north whereas the much larger Lake Taupo lies beyond on the horizon.
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Bruceki, bless his soul, was totally prepped for everything including a thermos with a familiar product from the isle of Islay for the last several kliks of descending. Thus fortified we carried on in diminishing daylight.
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Increasing darkness had us regretting our late start in the morning.
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The final segment of the crossing was through a forest for about four kilometres. The first stars appeared overhead and Carla’s vision and balance were quickly going south. She hung on to me though my wobble wasn’t reassuring. The increasing darkness slowed our downhill pace --- seemingly we were the only hikers left on the mountainside.
At kilometer 17 the hammer came down. Carla suddenly collapsed on the trail, passed out from exhaustion. She couldn’t communicate and seemed comatose. Bruceki called 111, the national emergency number, and had immediate contact. Our location was pinpointed. They knew we were in trouble, despite being prepared with clothing, food, and water. This was a medical issue.
Cradling Carla in my arms and uncertain what to do next, a murmuring was eventually barely audible. Within a few minutes this dribbled out into words, even a sentence or two. Paragraphs could wait. She soon made it clear to us that she’d feel better if we continued on down the trail for the final couple of kliks to the bottom. Our two flashlights guided her footing as she held on to my pack and arm with Bruceki leading the way.
A strong flashlight beam was coming toward us, the first of the emergency responders. Now we were a party of four with increasing confidence that the night wouldn’t be spent on the forest trail. A little further on three more flashlights joined us, a young police guy and two more Search and Rescuers. Carla was given a strong sugary syrup and rejuvenated further. Another klik and we reached the parking lot where an ambulance awaited. A para-medic took her inside for about twenty minutes for a thorough check-out as me and Bruceki chatted with the responders in the dark parking lot under the Southern Cross, Magellenic Clouds, the upside down Orion, and the southern continuation of the Milky Way.
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All vital signs were registered as normal after Carla’s medical examination. The long drive home was the final challenge.
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The late drive back to Kinloch in the dark was the most hazardous segment of the entire expedition. Drowsiness at the wheel persisted. Carla revived enough to keep conscious all the way back, at one point making it clear that I was nodding off as we drove down the right (wrong) side of the road. The road was dark and thankfully empty all the way home as we followed Bruceki’s car lights. By one o’clock in the ayem we were back, safe and sound, into a warm bathtub, and soon on to a Hall of Fame extended sleep.
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