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African Safari Update - June 2024

FROM THE EDITOR'S DESK

I found the Africa I was looking for in Tanzania and Kenya recently. I found it in the briefest of eye to eye contact with a migrating zebra in the Serengeti, in the boundless energy of baby Thomson’s gazelles playfully bouncing around the open savannah, in pairs of Burchells’s zebras cozily resting their heads on each other’s backs. If you slow down and sit down and wait for it, Africa will also find you. In the unlikeliest of places. This time it was the outside terrace at Ol Seki, in the Naboisho Conservancy, just to the north of the Masai Mara. Just me, a cup of freshly brewed Earl Grey tea - and seemingly all of Africa spread out below the camp left, right and center. In the far distance, there was a small tower of three giraffes carefully plucking vegetation from high up in their own three trees. Beyond that just some bird calls. And an inquisitive rock hyrax giving me a ‘friend or foe’ look, a split second before making the wrong assumption and diving away behind a rock. Nothing that would compel me to grab a camera and record the moment for posterity. Yet everything. Nothing jarring, nothing excessive, just the way things should be. Not a vehicle or a powerline in sight.  

Kathy and I were fortunate to experience quite a few moments like that during the course of two 8-night East African safaris taken back-to-back in late May. One in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park and the other in Kenya’s Masai Mara. How did they stack up?  

Overall I have to give Kenya the nod. It's subjective, to be sure. Coming strictly from a photographer’s point of view. On this trip I simply got better and more photos in the Mara than in the Serengeti. Luck? It always plays a part. 

Game viewing conditions were challenging in both areas because of the abundant long rains, supercharged by an El Niño weather pattern. In some areas of the Seronera Valley and in the Mara it was still raining heavily in late May.  
Two standout experiences would make us want to return to the Serengeti. One was a stupendous procession of more than 5,000 zebras clustered tightly together, making their way through simply the most picture perfect setting in the Grumeti area of the western Serengeti. The other? Being right inside the wildebeest migration on a massive open plain along the eastern side of Seronera near the Gol Koppies. Hearing and seeing hundreds and cumulatively thousands of wildebeest and zebras all around us in every direction, as far as we could see. 

On the downside, we had some issues with tsetse flies in the Serengeti, no doubt caused by the recent abundant rainfall and resulting tall grass and thickets. Also the best, most productive game viewing areas invariably seemed to be at least an hour’s drive away from the various Serengeti camps.
The Mara? Acre for acre it is unbeatable for its wildlife diversity. More than once we had as many as seven different mammal species within view. In both the Naboisho and Mara North conservancies there were simply massive numbers of plains game around, everywhere. A big bonus - compared with the central Serengeti - was the fact that we did not have to drive an hour and a half to get to where the game was. Game viewing started right out of camp. And even more importantly, we could truly relax and enjoy the experience without having to worry about tsetse flies. Spending several days inside private conservancies to the north of the Mara meant we could go offroad to get closer to some lion prides and cheetahs. 
In fact our best cheetah sighting - on an outing from Saruni Mara Camp in the Mara North Conservancy - would likely have been wholly unsatisfactory if our guide had not been able to drive off road. 

For more details about our time spent in the Serengeti and the Mara last month, take a look at our blog post on our website here

To find your own Africa - soon or whenever - ask us about where and when. Please call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 or email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.  

WHERE IN AFRICA TO GO NEXT IN 2024-2025

For me the most fun part of our business is designing itineraries. That’s where our 50 plus years of African experience and our team’s regular inspection and educational visits come into play. Rarely do we include a property which we haven’t been to ourselves and never is how often we include a property where guests may be forced into a middle seat on safari. 

Over the years we have gotten better at customizing itineraries to match a particular party’s interests and objectives. Without simply opting for the most expensive properties. 

So where would we go ourselves if we had to book an Africa trip this very minute, using mostly the properties which our Fish Eagle Safaris team checked out over the last couple of months? I asked the members of our Fish Eagle Safaris team to chime in.  

Visit our blog to see what they had to say...

SAFARI LODGE OF THE MONTH: WILDERNESS MOKETE


Wilderness’ recently opened Mababe-area tented camp – Mokete – has catapulted to the top of many safari aficionados’ must-visit lists.  

Game viewing at Wilderness Mokete is unmatched, renowned for the mega herds that make their way across this private wilderness with a constant supply of water, located on the eastern fringe of the Okavango Delta and the famed Moremi Game Reserve, to the south of Chobe National Park. With its three distinct habitats: grassland plains, mopane and acacia woodlands, and the marsh system fed by the Mababe River, Mokete is home to prides of lion, leopards, cheetahs, packs of wild dogs, bat-eared foxes, jackals, African wild cats and servals. All of which makes for an immersive, exclusive and thrilling safari. There are often huge herds of buffalo in the area, and there can also be huge herds of zebras. Also worth mentioning: two pretty special antelope, sable and roan. They have been seen around Mokete in the dozens if not hundreds. Unlike anywhere else.

Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon recently spent a couple of nights at Mokete. Visit our blog for some of his observations and his recommendations to make your stay at Mokete even more rewarding than it may otherwise be.
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