In our continued efforts to provide educational outreach, the Baltimore County Master Gardeners (BCMG), volunteers who are part of the University of Maryland Extension, offer this newest installment in our monthly newsletters designed to provide timely, informative articles to assist you in your gardening activities.
This month learn about viburnum shrubs. the herb of the month is sage. Just in time for the holidays
Suggestions for future newsletters or questions about the articles? Please reply to this email and let us know how we can continue to Help You Grow!
Click the button below to read previous newsletter articles.
A Collection of Viburnums
By Norman Cohen, Baltimore County Master Gardener
My home is situated on nearly an acre of land, of which half is heavily treed. When I arrived, native grape vines (Vitis labrusca and V. vulpina), and oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) were strangling every tree and shrub. After a two-year removal campaign, I was finally able to inventory and catalogue the plants on the property. The year was 2004. To determine their identities, only books were available – no convenience of “iNaturalist.”
I found five different species of viburnum on the property: Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood viburnum), native; V. dilatatum (linden viburnum), non-native; V. prunifolium (blackhaw viburnum), native; V. rhytidophylum (leather Leaf viburnum), non-native and V. acerifolium (mapleleaf viburnum), native. Viburnum is a genus of shrubs native to Eurasia and North America. The etymology is quite simple – viburnum is the Latin name for the shrub, derived from Etruscan, and meaning wayfaring tree. Viburnums have opposite leaves, with white umbel flowers followed by black, blue, or red drupes (fleshy, one-seeded fruit).
Deer have a fondness for the arrowwood and mapleleaf viburnums. Mapleleaf generally grows to a height of three to four feet. With deer present, the plant will be lucky to make two feet. Viburnum dilatatum, leatherleaf viburnum, has glossy red fruit sets, a height to eight to ten feet and very little deer browse. How spectacular! My bubble was soon broken when I became a master gardener and received the updated publication of “Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas,” published by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. On page 66, this viburnum is named an invasive ecological threat.
My goal was to have a viburnum collection of native and non-native, non-invasive shrubs. Two favorite purchases are Viburnum carlesii (Korean spice viburnum), a non-native, non-invasive; and V. nudum ‘Winterthur’ (naked witherod), a native cultivar. V. carlesii grows to a height of five to eight feet and a width of five to six feet with fragrant flowers in early April, shiny dark green leaves turning wine red in the fall, and red fruit turning to black. I have sited the shrub in partial shade with minimal pruning and it is browsed very little by deer. V. nudum has lustrous foliage, grows compactly to a height and width of six feet and blooms white in June. Its drupes start out light pink, deepening to dark blue by autumn. It grows in partial shade with some deer browse.
If you are interested in viburnums, “Viburnums: Flowering Shrubs for Every Season,” by Michael A. Dirr, is highly recommended.
NOVEMBER HERB OF THE MONTH: SAGE By Kim Berk, Baltimore County Master Gardener
November brings falling leaves and smells of roast turkey in the oven. What better herb than sage to make that holiday stuffing!
Sage is a member of the Salvia family and comes in many varieties, such as Russian sage, tricolor sage, Mexican bush sage. But the most common is our garden sage, known as Salvia officinalis. It is relatively easy to grow and a wonderful culinary herb. Use it on meats (especially lamb), in bean dishes, in breads or as mentioned above as a seasoning in poultry dressings. Sage is a hardy perennial that blooms with butterfly-attracting spikes of purple, blue, white, or pink flowers in the spring. In addition to its culinary uses, sage has a number of medicinal benefits. It contains antioxidants, which help reduce the risk of serious health conditions like cancer. It is also rich in vitamin K, which aids the body in blood clotting. Sage also has natural antibacterial properties and has been used as a preservative for meat and poultry.
Planting
The easiest and best way to start sage is from a transplant. Set the plants two feet apart. It can also be started from seed and should be sown directly into the soil up to two weeks before the last spring frost. In Maryland that date is generally around Mother’s Day in May. Plant the seeds in well-drained soil and in full sun. Sage will not do well in wet soil. However, as a side note, sage is difficult to start from seed so you’ll have better success starting with small purchased plants. For best growth, the soil should be between 60 and 70 degrees Farenheit. Plants usually will grow to be 12 inches but some can reach 30 inches in height. In the garden, plant near rosemary, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower or carrots to deter cabbage moths, black flea beetles, and carrot flies. However, do not plant it near cucumbers. Sage has a powerful scent and its intense aroma can affect the flavor of the cucumbers.
Growing
Water young plants regularly until they are fully grown. They’ll need a consistent moisture supply until they start growing quickly. Prune the heavier, woody stems every spring. It’s best to replace the plants every few years so they remain productive.
Harvesting
Pinch off leaves or snip off small sprigs from the top of the plant to encourage more growth. During the first year, harvest lightly to ensure that the plant grows fully. After the first year be sure to leave a few stalks so that the plant can rejuvenate in the future. If fully established, one plant can be harvested up to three times in one season. Stop harvesting in the fall so the plant can prepare for winter. The best advice here would be to randomly pull off individual leaves if needed to make dressings or to season meats.
Storage
Sage’s flavor is best when fresh, but it can be stored frozen or dried. To dry, hang sprigs in a paper bag punched with holes for ventilation. Place in a dry, well-ventilated area until the leaves crumble. The leaves then can be stored in jars for up to 6 months. It can also be frozen by freezing the leaves or stalks on a tray then moving the leaves into a zippered plastic bag or container. It can also be ground, mixed with some water and frozen in an ice cube tray. After they are frozen, transfer the cubes to a container.
Common pests & diseases
Sage can suffer from a number of pests and fungal diseases, such as rust, powdery mildew, stem rot, leaf spots, whiteflies, aphids or spider mites. To control pests, use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or horticultural oils. Be sure to follow the application instructions provided on the packaging. The best method for controlling some of the fungal diseases is to rid the plant of the infected areas by pruning or snipping and disposing of the impacted leaves. There are organic fungicides available as well. Be sure to follow the application instructions. Also do not water overhead as that can spread the diseases to other plants. Water at the base of the plant instead.
As the temperatures start to fall and our gardens wane with the onset of the coming winter months, snip a few leaves of sage, chop, and inhale the earthy, intense aroma that seasons our turkey dressings. For those a little more adventurous, try a little sage on oranges or Brussel sprouts. Or soften butter, add a little chopped sage and place in the refrigerator to re-harden then dot those mashed potatoes with some of that sage butter. Spreading on a hot roll or biscuit is equally as yummy. Enjoy, and have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Do you have any questions about our articles?
Reply to this email with your questions and receive answers in the next issue!
OR For gardening topics and information not contained in this newsletter, contact HGIC-Ask Extension by clicking this LINK.
I found five different species of viburnum on the property: Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood viburnum), native; V. dilatatum (linden viburnum), non-native; V. prunifolium (blackhaw viburnum), native; V. rhytidophylum (leather Leaf viburnum),
non-native and V. acerifolium (mapleleaf viburnum), native. Viburnum is a genus of shrubs native to Eurasia and North America. The etymology is quite simple – viburnum is the Latin name for the shrub, derived from Etruscan, and meaning wayfaring tree. Viburnums have opposite leaves, with white umbel flowers followed by black, blue, or red drupes (fleshy, one-seeded fruit).
My goal was to have a viburnum collection of native and non-native, non-invasive shrubs. Two favorite purchases are Viburnum carlesii (Korean spice viburnum), a non-native, non-invasive; and V. nudum ‘Winterthur’ (naked witherod), a native cultivar. V. carlesii grows to a height of five to eight feet and a width of five to six feet with fragrant flowers in early April, shiny dark green leaves turning wine red in the fall, and red fruit turning to black. I have sited the shrub in partial shade with minimal pruning and it is browsed very little by deer. V. nudum has lustrous foliage, grows compactly to a height and width of six feet and blooms white in June. Its drupes start out light pink, deepening to dark blue by autumn. It grows in partial shade with some deer browse.
November brings falling leaves and smells of roast turkey in the oven. What better herb than sage to make that holiday stuffing!
