As the saying goes…’the best things in life are free’…
Dawn recently took the opportunity to combine her passion for the Camino and helping her fellow pilgrims to celebrate their Camino achievements by volunteering at the Compostela Office in Santiago de Compostela - this is her story:
Back in December I was that excited when I found out I was accepted as a volunteer in one of my favourite places, Santiago de Compostela, the old town where all the Camino’s end and a place I have walked into many times.
What would I be doing I wondered? All l wanted to do was stamp the Compostela for the pilgrims who had walked their Camino’s. As they say ‘being a volunteer is our gift to the pilgrims’. And guess what, that’s exactly what my job was.
Glenyce with her Compostla and me with my Distance Certificate
To obtain a Compostela on any Camino, you must walk a minimum of 100kms or you can ride a horse at least 100 kms and on a bike the minimum is 200 kms, and you must collect 2 stamps per day in your Credential (stamp book).
Horse riders have special dispensation to enter the Cathedral Plaza early in the morning before 9am - it’s a great sight.
As the pilgrims arrive at the Compostela Office, they must register and receive a QR code with a unique number which is scanned at the desk. I liked to sit at the desk closest to the hallway, so I could see all the excited pilgrims gathering and chatting about their experiences. As they came up to the desk, in my very best Spanish, I would ask to see their Credential and then ask if they wanted a certificado de distancia (a distance certificate). It was fascinating with all the different nationalities arriving - a lot of Spanish but also walkers from Holland, Croatia, Taiwan, China, Phillipines, Japan, Australia, Ireland and Germany. Most could speak a little English, which was a great help and made it fun to chat about their journey and ask questions ... did they love it, why did they walk their camino, did they walk alone, did they go swimming if they did the Portuguese Coastal, how hard did they find the hills on the Pyreenes or on the Primitivo or Norte Caminos, where was their next Camino? It was fascinating. There might be a tear in their eyes for finishing their long journeys - I'd congratulate them and say well done, sometimes give them a hug or shake their hands and off they'd go all happy and relieved !!
So Day One in Santiago, I checked into my accommodation, my own room with a shared bathroom - very comfortable. I met my fellow volunteers - an Irishman, and 2 Spaniards, one male one female (sounds like a joke). First thing we do is all head off to the super mercardo for supplies, we had a well equipped kitchen and we could prepare our own meals. I didn’t buy too much because I had a plan to explore the old town like a local and check out the many tapas bars and restaurants, especially to see what had changed since 2020, of course there was also shopping to be done too !!
I walked each day into the office along the route of the Camino Frances from Sarria (the last 100km). As I met the pilgrims I'd say with excitement Buen Camino and ask them where they were from and how long have they been walking and then tell them I was volunterring at the Pilgrim office and might see them later. I then left them in peace to walk their final kilometres to the Cathedral.
The office was manned by helpful and patient full-time locals as well as several volunteers, it was a busy place. Most days morning coffee orders were taken often served with a slice of yummy tortilla.
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Between shifts I went exploring. I'd walk up Monte de Gozo where the pilgrim monument is, up to the Cidade da Cultura de Galicia (the beautiful building you see to your left in the distance when entering Santiago on the Camino Francis and northern paths), all through Parque Alameda with beautiful views over the magnificent Cathedral and I’d end up getting lost then found while wandering around the old town, finding the best coffee, the best churros and the best tapas - it was terrific fun.
I often met a lot of pilgrims who were searching for accommodation. The town was full up and they were walking in the opposite direction to Monte de Gozo to find an albergue - that's an extra 4km out of town. Accommodation of all sorts is pretty scarce if you haven't managed to sort it out before you arrive to Santiago.
I want to share some of my favourite moments with you so you get an idea of the meaning of the Camino…
Anzac Day 25/4 - an Australian came into the pilgrims office asking were there any Australians working here. The staff bought him to me, I was the only Aussie. He said ‘do you remember what today is’ I said ‘yes’ and with that he gave me a hug and my Anzac badge… he said ‘it’s ok to cry, it’s a special day for all of us!!! ‘
A lovely Irish woman who walked from Sarria alone for her brother who had recently died, she showed me a photo of him, we hugged & cried together.
An elderly woman from Holland who walked 1515kms from her home. She started in 2018 and finally finished with her family to greet her when she arrived. They were all crying with elation, her for completing her journey, the family for her determination at walking that distance alone.
There were a lot of women who just walked their Camino’s alone for their significant 'O' birthdays. Just because!!
Preparing the Compostela for my friend Kim from Scotland. That was very emotional.
Handing out the Compostela's to Glenyce and her group after their Camino from Sarria. It was very special for me to be able to do that.
I met Dave from Scotland and Terry from England - we went to mass (misa) and then shared a meal afterwards. It’s funny, but on the Camino you dont always share your details but we did take a photo of the three of us on our respective phones as a memory.
One afternoon, I met a group of Irish ladies making their way down the hill about 4 kms from the Cathedral. They were very excited when I told them about mass being at 7.30pm and the pilgrim office being open till 7pm - they had time to do both.
Another morning the pilgrim office was live on Spanish TV - very exciting!! A staff member was interviewed and also some of the pilgrims waiting outside to get their compostela's.
On my way to the Pilgrims Office I walked past the best panadería - a tiny pastry shop always with a long queue around the corner and across the road a great coffee cafe - bonus!
I had a Tour of the Cathedral archival area where some of the documents date from 1168. There is a 12 century book of sermons & music from 1627.
I went to mass in the Cathedral a few times and got to see the Botofumeria each time - that turely is an amazing spectacle. Once the music starts and the men in red robes walk out, you know it’s going to happen. Story goes that the Botofumeria was used to make the air in the Cathedral fresh due to the smelly pilgrims attending the mass. Nowadays you can pay to have the Botofumeria displayed, it's not advertised and just pot luck that you see it at mass.
Sometimes I would sit for an hour or so in the square and watch the pilgrims arrive - excited, exhausted, crying, happy, sad it was over. Just hearing the piper in the arch way gave me goosebumps.
For pilgrims arriving into Santiago it’s the end of their exhaustive walk and the finish of a great adventure, it’s a time for celebrations with pilgrim friends made along the way.
I thoroughly enjoyed my volunteering, it really was so satisfying and fun. I met a lot of people and made many new friends. It's something I will treasure and hope to do again.
