Hello All -
Thank you to everyone who has taken a look at the database so far. All of the logins have now been issued so, if you are still missing yours, please email Rosalind.
Please do comment on the c16th items in the database by visiting the online survey here (or visit https://www.surveymonkey.co.uk/r/C7QFGKX).
If you'd like to join the project, you need to fill out the online agreement before we can issue you with a login.
Below is more detailed information on the knitting part of the project.
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Choosing yarn to knit your four swircles
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Choose undyed yarn/s that have not been treated to prevent felting or shrinking (for example, avoid “superwash” brands). A light coloured fleece is preferable to a dark one to permit dye tests later. Note details such as name, brand, ply, yarn diameter. Another useful measurement is the yarn count, which is calculated by dividing the length by the weight. Keep a length of at least 5 inches/125mm in a sealed plastic bag for future data.
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Knit four swircles for each yarn you are testing. Two are now finished and are the “before fulling” evidence. Put them in the bag with the yarn sample. The other two will be fulled and become the “after fulling” evidence. The suggestions below are based on the examination of more than 100 knitted caps from the 16th century.
The data here is drawn from the cap linings, which are the first items to have been examined closely for specific measurements. Feel free to vary your work according to your thoughts on the material in the database. But do keep notes!
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Knitting a test set of four swircles
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Swircles are circular swatches of tightly-knitted fabric 5 inches (12.75cm) in diameter. Use four or five double-pointed knitting needles (pins) or a circular needle. You will need to choose the needle size according to the thickness of your yarn (see below). We used 2.5mm for our initial experiments for yarn measuring from 5mm to 2.5mm in diameter (average 3.3mm).
1) Use a circular cast on for 8 stitches: here is a good guide to this. This is only a suggestion. You can use any cast on you like.
2) Knit one course/round/row, dividing the stitches equally between four needles.
3) Knit twice into each stitch on the way round (16 stitches).
Use the cast-on tail to gently draw up the cast-on ring and use it to mark the end of the course/round/row by draping it between the needles.
4) Knit plain for this course/round/row and all subsequent odd-numbered rounds (that is, rounds 3, 5, 7 etc).
Aim for 7 stitches/wales per inch (per 25mm) and 11 rounds/courses/rows per inch (per 25mm) or whatever the evidence in the database suggests to you is appropriate.
5) Knit twice into the 1st and 2nd stitch on each needle, resulting in 6 sts on each needle and 24 in total. (You could do this by knitting into the front and then the back of the stitch.)
6) Set the pattern by imagining the circle divided into eight sections, with two sections on each needle.
Note that 8 stitches are increased in alternate rounds/courses/rows (that is, the even-numbered ones).
BUT -
Each increase must not be directly above a recent increase - the location of the stitches that are used for increases (by knitting front and back) should be random. Avoid creating lines, swirls or patterns in the swircle.
7) Continue to knit the alternating increase rounds until there are 80 stitches in total (20 on each needle).
If it's easier to remember, you can simply increase one stitch per needle on every course/round/row.
8) Knit one course/round/row to finish.
9) Cast off.
After knitting, identify two of the swircles with tie-on waterproof labels recording your full name, the yarn’s name, and “BEFORE”.
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The next eNewsletter will explain the fulling process, which we would like to keep as consistent as possible across the whole KEME team.
You may like to start looking far a neutral soap (not too acid or alkaline) so that we are all using approximately the same PH value.
The first experimental swircles were fulled using unusual soap given as a gift to the project. It is pictured opposite but your soap does not need to be like this!
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If you have any questions Rosalind can be contacted at rm572@exeter.ac.uk or Jane can be contacted at Jmalcolm-davies@hum.ku.dk
Thanks for your help and enthusiasm,
Jane & the KEME team
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